Nwgs Jeep'n Thread

[Road Rash]

Originally Posted by Nwgs

Road Rash we call all the rigs Jeeps.

ours. 60 rear 44 front.
383 stroker about 550 hp.

Well my ol'Blazer has a little in common with your rig, 60 rear, 44 front with a 383 stroker, I don't have that many horsey's but she's got some good pullin power.

[Road Rash]

Originally Posted by richard cabesa

Not a jeep but check this guy out

Shit!...........................................I think "save of the day" is an under statement

[Lone Rider]

Originally Posted by Ruffus

most hard core rock crawling is so much easier with an auto, for everything else I'd rather have a stick

Hydro winches can usually go nonstop, but you have to keep your engine running, electric winches have to be used intermitently, I was taught 3 seconds on 5 seconds off, but if your engine dies in deep water for example, you can still pull your self to safety as long as your battery holds out

Autos allow you to drive with both feet. Smoother when working your way over obstacles, unless you're going the super granny crawler route, but that becomes too slow and actually boring. Good cooling on the autos is a must, and also choosing the correct convertor for your type of wheeling.

I have a very low opinion of winch ropes when used in real off road recovery situations. Abrasion will kill them fast, and they're expensive to replace. It's hard to beat a wire rope - just use normal safety precautions.

Hydraulic winches driven from a power steering pump (MileMarker) are slower than the Earth turns. Sure, 2 speeds, but the high speed won't pull the stick out of a popsicle.

There are different types of electric winches. Just because one is labeled 8,000# doesn't mean it's like another labeled with the same rating. Permanent magnet motor winches are inexpensive, relatively speaking, and do a good job when used within the limits of for what they're designed for. Series wound motor winches are the heavier duty winches.

Winch motors build heat when they're under load, and that varies depending on the load. No load = almost no heat, over max capability = much heat very fast. Then there's the in between...where you actually use it. Other than wear and tear, heat is what kills the winch motor.

Saying 'x' time on and 'x' time off is correct, but only for a situation when that is correct. That's never an abosolute.

A motor will be pulling much greater amps under a 5,000# load when the cable is on top of 3 layers of cable (above the winch drum diameter) than when pulling the same 5,000# just over the bare drum. Winch ratings are calculated and labeled based on pulling power on a bare drum/1st layer.

There's also a difference between planetary gear and worm gear winches, holding/bralking capacity being just a part of that.

Then we have PTO winches....

I'm gonna stop.
You can kill yourself or a friend with a winch..and you can also save lives.
I love em, they are the juice...

[easyridin5150]

Most excellent save!

[heynowref]

Had a '78 CJ5 for a few years in hs and college - still miss that damn thing
not enough room in the garage or the budget to have the bike and the Jeep

[richard cabesa]

Originally Posted by Road Rash

Shit!...........................................I think "save of the day" is an under statement

I spent alot of time at the Pismo dunes in the past and saw too many 4 wheelers that made that mistake and didn't make the save. It wasn't pretty, alot of broken faces, and worse

[nwgs]

Originally Posted by Lone Rider

I have a very low opinion of winch ropes when used in real off road recovery situations. Abrasion will kill them fast, and they're expensive to replace. It's hard to beat a wire rope - just use normal safety precautions.

LR,

Thanks for the tip. After thinking about the winch rope and your input I decided against the winch rope. The times I have used the rope where weight is a concern are few. Also I have seen them bind and become hard to unspool. Well cable also but more on the rope.
Decided on this one. It will fit the my existing ARB bumper. Still plenty of cable length.
http://www.warn.com/truck/winches/sr...i_MOSFET.shtml

[JasonH]

Here's another of the non-Jeep variety. 79 FJ40. I've had it for around 11 years.

[Jhon]

Originally Posted by JasonH

Here's another of the non-Jeep variety. 79 FJ40. I've had it for around 11 years.

That's real nice.

[mxchamp]

Wanted one of those, but found my Jeep locally.

I would post a phots but for some reason, I can't post attachements here on Jo momma.

I can elsewhere but not here??????

Could somebody please tell me why?

Thanks

JJ

[nwgs]

Originally Posted by JasonH

Here's another of the non-Jeep variety. 79 FJ40. I've had it for around 11 years.

Nice Jeep JasonH Those Toyota's go places.

[snare]

95YJ, 355TBI, TH350, clocked and twin sticked D300, D60 front with 35 spline outers, welded, ram steer, behind the axle tie rod, 3/8" tube front driveshaft, 14 Bolt (shaved) with Detroit, discs and 1410 driveshaft, hummer wheels with cut down mag runflats, 39.5 TSLs, flat skid, anti-wrap bar, SOA with 44044 fronts and F150 rears, 104.5" WB, gas tank relocated to bed, cutting brakes, 8274, full cage, York OBA

had to sell it :sniff:

[Lone Rider]

Originally Posted by Nwgs

LR,

Thanks for the tip. After thinking about the winch rope and your input I decided against the winch rope. The times I have used the rope where weight is a concern are few. Also I have seen them bind and become hard to unspool. Well cable also but more on the rope.
Decided on this one. It will fit the my existing ARB bumper. Still plenty of cable length.
http://www.warn.com/truck/winches/sr...i_MOSFET.shtml

Those are good winches.
The only negative I can mention, if they haven't changed motors, is that they will 'run on' for a short time after releasing the control switch. It shows more when there isn't a load, like when you're winding by hand. Be especially careful if you're rewinding the cable outside the vehicle and signaling the guy inside the vehicle who has the control.

A tight cable will dig into loose lays/winds on the drum. This is the cause of binding when unspooling. It can be so bad at times that you need to hook to a tree or other anchor, and drive in reverse with the winch in free spool mode, jerking it free.

Rarely are things perfect during recovery, but if the vehicle gets ahead of the winch and is winding loose cable, it's always best to stop when possible, unspool and rewind by hand. This is when you can get mashed and kinked cable.

[Road Rash]

Originally Posted by snare

95YJ, 355TBI, TH350, clocked and twin sticked D300, D60 front with 35 spline outers, welded, ram steer, behind the axle tie rod, 3/8" tube front driveshaft, 14 Bolt (shaved) with Detroit, discs and 1410 driveshaft, hummer wheels with cut down mag runflats, 39.5 TSLs, flat skid, anti-wrap bar, SOA with 44044 fronts and F150 rears, 104.5" WB, gas tank relocated to bed, cutting brakes, 8274, full cage, York OBA

had to sell it :sniff:

Good first post.....................except for the last 4 words.

[Bayou Boy]

Here's mine at 2 months old.