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Old 12-21-2009, 04:33 AM   #1621
crag antler
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Florida Cracker in Southern Maine
Oddometer: 465
Air screw question

So while pondering in my mind the other day why I was still having starting issues , it came to me that I forgot I bored out the cylinder during my rebuild. Went to a 0.50 over piston. So , do you think with this change, I should be looking to change the settings in my carb?
Needle height, jets or air screw setting??
Sometimes she'll start right up and run thru the gears fine but when I stop and turn her off,sometimes fires, sometimes kicking and kicking. Ocaasionally have to change the plug.
I do have a sticking float valve that I bypass by turning off the gas when off.
I have checked the valves and they are within spec, but I still get a plug showing me excessive rich. To the point where I have to change it to get her to fire.
So far, new air filter, cleaned carbs,new aftermarket " hotter" coil, new plug cap and wire.
Also, so I don't mess up too much, is this the air screw to adjust under the cover ??

Sorry for the pic. quality. Old photo.
Which way to turn. left for lean, right for rich???
Thanks as always.
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Old 12-21-2009, 06:18 AM   #1622
LDHunter
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: NW Florida Piney Woods
Oddometer: 2,355
I had a XR500 and an XL600 back in the day and I rode the pi$$ out of them and they carried me anywhere I wanted to go for years and years and rarely complained. I remember running out of gas a lot and sometimes pushing them longer that I ever could push a bike again...

Sorry... No pictures. I didn't start taking pictures of my bikes until I got on ADV a couple of years ago...

Honda has made GREAT dual sports for a very very long time.... I think my first was a XL175 or something like that...

$bob$
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Old 12-21-2009, 06:34 AM   #1623
gorilla2891
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: NW WA. LaConner
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air screw

Yup, thats it. The lighting is not the best, but it almost looks to be turned all the way in. ? which would be rich. Try backing it out 1/4 turn and see hows she starts. after it warms up do 1/4 turn at a time adjustments till the rpms drop off then back in till they pick back up. Because of my carb/exhaust mods, I just turned mine in until till it stopped popping and shooting flame out the tail pipe. What size jets are you running? (probably posted early) Oh, and correct, left or out = lean, right or in = rich.
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Old 12-21-2009, 07:35 AM   #1624
Reposado1800
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: 5th and Main
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crag antler
So while pondering in my mind the other day why I was still having starting issues , it came to me that I forgot I bored out the cylinder during my rebuild. Went to a 0.50 over piston. So , do you think with this change, I should be looking to change the settings in my carb?
Needle height, jets or air screw setting??
Sometimes she'll start right up and run thru the gears fine but when I stop and turn her off,sometimes fires, sometimes kicking and kicking. Ocaasionally have to change the plug.
I do have a sticking float valve that I bypass by turning off the gas when off.
I have checked the valves and they are within spec, but I still get a plug showing me excessive rich. To the point where I have to change it to get her to fire.
So far, new air filter, cleaned carbs,new aftermarket " hotter" coil, new plug cap and wire.
Also, so I don't mess up too much, is this the air screw to adjust under the cover ??

Sorry for the pic. quality. Old photo.
Which way to turn. left for lean, right for rich???
Thanks as always.
If you have a sticking float valve then fix it. It does not take much for some gas to flood the engine.
I used to have a similiar problem before I went through my bike. The stator was weak and I would kick it a bunch of times and then it would flood making it even worse.
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Old 12-21-2009, 09:21 AM   #1625
gorilla2891
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I concur on the sticky float.

I over looked that. The float should be the first thing you do before any adjustments. As clayjars said, that is the probable cause of your too much fuel. My float was getting hung up on the choke tube next to it, so I dremeled the tube down till I had clearance. ?
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Old 12-21-2009, 11:40 AM   #1626
Zombie_Stomp
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: SE Portland/ Carrboroland NC
Oddometer: 2,219
Quote:
Originally Posted by crag antler
So while pondering in my mind the other day why I was still having starting issues , it came to me that I forgot I bored out the cylinder during my rebuild. Went to a 0.50 over piston. Thanks as always.
For a second there, I thought you said you forgot TO bore out for the piston. I was thinking, what the hell, how did he get an oversize piston in there without a bore job?! Then I reread it. Man, this is a busy thread. I'm glad we all love our XLs so much.

Gorilla, can we get a full shot of your bike with the new swingarm? Any plans to put on XR fron forks, or have you already done it? I'm curious to see how the XR swingarm, shock, and i assume linkages has affected your total ride height. It may be a significant change with the fact that the wheelbase is longer and the rear rim is an inch larger too.
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1983 Toyota pickup: total overhaul, preservation-restoration in constant progress...
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Old 12-21-2009, 12:24 PM   #1627
gorilla2891
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Location: NW WA. LaConner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zombie_Stomp
For a second there, I thought you said you forgot TO bore out for the piston. I was thinking, what the hell, how did he get an oversize piston in there without a bore job?! Then I reread it. Man, this is a busy thread. I'm glad we all love our XLs so much.

Gorilla, can we get a full shot of your bike with the new swingarm? Any plans to put on XR fron forks, or have you already done it? I'm curious to see how the XR swingarm, shock, and i assume linkages has affected your total ride height. It may be a significant change with the fact that the wheelbase is longer and the rear rim is an inch larger too.
I put a pic of it on page 104. I can post more if you like? I only have the swingarm in place now. And too broke to buy a tire for the 18" for a real comparison. But the forks will be next. As you know the forks are 3" longer and the swingarm is about 2.5" longer. So hopefully with the 18" wheel and extra length it should sit nice, like the XR.
The frame mounts are in the exact same spots on both bikes, eye to eye shock length,same, top shock mounting point same distance to swingarm mount. All of the linkages are the same length and shape, its just that the xls' are narrower. So I used the linkages and bolts from the xl and the swingarm from the xr. I did have to add washers to where the linkage bolts to the top of the swingarm due to the offset shock (wider) linkage of the xr. If you can get your hands on a roller it's a direct swap, with a cut and weld for master cylinder/pedal brackets.
I will hopefully have it wrapped up in the next 2 wks. I will include more pics.
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Old 12-21-2009, 01:17 PM   #1628
Zombie_Stomp
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: SE Portland/ Carrboroland NC
Oddometer: 2,219
Yes, more pics please. And for tires, post a wanted ad in the flea market wanting a half-used tire. Often you will find good tires for the cost of shipping only, and in good shape. I hope that works for you. I haven't bought a tire in over a year now, and I've used plenty of tires. Half used ones are often worth ther shipping and have 500-1000 miles left on them before they start to lose their effectiveness. I'm glad you did your research on the shock mounting points, it is good to know I won't have to mess with that much. I still plan on modifying the hell out of my XL frame though: reservoir bracket, brackets for XR seat, tank, side panels, airbox, master cylinder bracket for later, XR650L style passenger peg mounting points for pannier racks and footpegs, steering lock tab on frame relocated to work better wit the xr650l upper triple clamp I'm using, and finally powdercoating. A guy at the local techshop is building a big powdercoating oven that will fit frames in it.
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1983 Toyota pickup: total overhaul, preservation-restoration in constant progress...
1987 Yamaha XT600 2KF (German)
STOLEN: RED XL600 in Portland

I do heavy-duty textile repair, upholstery, and design/manufacture bags.
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Old 12-21-2009, 01:28 PM   #1629
gorilla2891
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Well Zombie, you motivated me to get the forks on. So the xl is almost comepletly tore down. I will take some pics as it gets together. I will have to decide which caliper to use. I was thinking of using xrl top clamp so I would have the mount for the key cylinder. You said thats what you have. ? How do you like the risers on it. They look to place your bars 1-1.5" higher.
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Old 12-21-2009, 05:10 PM   #1630
God of Speed
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Location: Naughty Chair
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has anyone thought about using USD forks? would probably have to change the yokes for the different diameter and what not but might be worthwhile if it is easy whilst upgrading the suspension. i have had no experience with USDs just heard about them. is it worthwhile for the difference they make?
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Old 12-21-2009, 06:10 PM   #1631
gorilla2891
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Location: NW WA. LaConner
Oddometer: 306
upside down.

I had a 89' cr500 when I bought the xl, and if I didn't get what I wanted for it I was going to try and swap the suspension bits over. From what I gather the front upside down fork would bolt right on. The rear, not so much. So if you want cr 250,500 and possibly 125 forks should fit. But do some research, don't just take my word for it. I am at a stopping point for tonight. I do not have the proper size socket/wrench for the steering head nut. And I think I have had 1 too many beers to go to my friends to get one. So this is the sad shape of my xl.
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Old 12-21-2009, 07:10 PM   #1632
MortimerSickle
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Location: Rainville, Orygun, where moss is a road hazard.
Oddometer: 11,673
Quote:
Originally Posted by gorilla2891
I do not have the proper size socket/wrench for the steering head nut.
Have you tried your SAE sockets? For example, I use a 1 1/4" for a 32 mm.
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Old 12-21-2009, 07:18 PM   #1633
gorilla2891
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yea, the largest i have is inch and a 1/8. :(
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Old 12-21-2009, 10:38 PM   #1634
mdkm85
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Texas
Oddometer: 65
I almost feel like its to late to post this response, like Zombie said, this is a busy thread! But I would feel almost rude if I didnt respond

Mortimersickle-unfortunately i dont know anyone else who has another CDI i can just plug in and see if it works. I seem to be the only one of my friends that even has a bike...maybe I need some new friends!! lol

God of Speed-guess im going to purchase a new CDI and go from there.

I have done some testing with my ohmmeter following the instructions in the clymers manual and the only ignition componet that I can get any resistance from is the pulse generator. Kinda wierd. I did the testing from the wire terminals the plug into the CDI like the manual said. I just dont see why I would have spark for 30min of riding and then it would just go away. what a tease!!!
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Old 12-21-2009, 11:20 PM   #1635
Zombie_Stomp
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Location: SE Portland/ Carrboroland NC
Oddometer: 2,219
Quote:
Originally Posted by gorilla2891
Well Zombie, you motivated me to get the forks on. So the xl is almost comepletly tore down. I will take some pics as it gets together. I will have to decide which caliper to use. I was thinking of using xrl top clamp so I would have the mount for the key cylinder. You said thats what you have. ? How do you like the risers on it. They look to place your bars 1-1.5" higher.
Not sure if the bars were any higher or not. I mean, it raised the front suspension height, yes. As for the bars' position on the rider height, I think that's the same. You should definitely use the XRL top clamp. Two important things to share about that: the steering lock tab on the frame needs to be moved down in order to work. I had no welding facility at the time of the swap, so I just bent it down as far as possible carefully beating it with a hammer. I've seen the entire ignition switch shatter from too much force being applied to it's cast aluminum body (I was trying to get a good angle to straighten my old stock handlebars, don't do this) and so the little bit of contact made with the newly bent tab was just enough- I like that since it would give way before the ignition unit breaks. I'll probably relocate the tab properly anyway when I revise the frame to XR specs. Second thing, make two plates of aluminum with holes drilled for the two upper clamp bolt holes, a pair, one for each side. Next, hold up the mounting bracket for the XL speedo and display lights, marking the place the holes are. Third, drill holes at these points and bolt in some of those little eye-bolts just big enough for the bracket bolts to pass through. They have these from National hardware at almost any hardware store. Use two nuts to lock it to the little plates you fitted to the upper clamp, and a nut on the other side of the bracket bolts. Washers, grommets, whatever you choose to make it work. It just needs a place to bolt to. They aren't the prettiest, but it is easy to do with a little scrap metal and bits from the store. I plan on making some billet aluminum ones, and I'll be making some pairs and selling them in the future. I'm learning turbocad and how to program g-code, so it's close to becoming a reality.

Speaking of turbo cad, i'm coming out with some bar risers that have clever, unique, and vulgar slogans and phrases. One that comes to mind, inspired by ADV and the FYYFF slogan we have here, is a pair of bar risers that say, "Fuck you, I'm riding." I got the other inspiration from the movie Idiocracy where in the future, the carl's jr. slogan is "fuck you, I'm eating." It's also right up there with how Gary Fisher mountain bikes had that little disc on the aheadset that said, "all work and no play is no good at all". Nobody steal my idea now. I'm working the custom angle on my product lines instead of the mass production. After all, I'm just one guy, but DAMN do I love what I do.

EDIT: use the whole front brake system from the XR, it's way better, you'll love it. And use a XRL brake lever and use the dip switch from your XL (bolts right up) on the master cylinder. I didn't have money for a XRL lever, so I just drilled my XL lever ot accept the same type of adjuster nut as the XR has on it's caliper so it lines up at the correct angle. I got it slightly off target but it has still worked great without any complaints from the master cylinder about the off-center pressure of the lever. The brakes are smooth and powerful.
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1983 Toyota pickup: total overhaul, preservation-restoration in constant progress...
1987 Yamaha XT600 2KF (German)
STOLEN: RED XL600 in Portland

I do heavy-duty textile repair, upholstery, and design/manufacture bags.
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