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Old 08-13-2010, 03:13 PM   #3061
ZapGuy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadTrauma
Is it a known good battery?
It took the charge from the battery tender, so I'm assuming so.

Yah. I know better: assume nothing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadTrauma
I would think that the charging coils are at least doing something if the lights get stronger when it's running. It's easy to check the resistance of those coils to rule them out. If they are good, then start going down the line; wiring, connectors, regulator, rectifier, etc.
Will do. Thanks, HeadTrauma.

Do I have to take anything apart, or can I get away with sticking a meter in wires/plugs I can reach?

I have a Haynes at home somewhere. I'll look and see if there are any tips or how-to.
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Old 08-13-2010, 05:03 PM   #3062
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZapGuy
Left the house today, after unplugging the battery tender. Battery was fully charged.

A less-than-an-hour commute to work and the battery is now dead enough that the neutral light no longer lights up unless it's running.

What do ya all think: is it time for a Ricky Stator, or should I look somewhere else on the bike (1983 XL600R) for a problem?
Check your battery connections and the fuse. Put a multimeter on the battery while it is running and you should see 14.5 volts. If not, it is regulator or stator.
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Old 08-13-2010, 06:21 PM   #3063
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Thats also what i would do. Start at the battery if it checks out slowly trace all the wires
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Old 08-13-2010, 06:51 PM   #3064
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Thought I'd share, since people ask about oil temps so much: just rode home from work. (Seattle to Tacoma in rush hour.) It's freakin hot out, for the Northwest: 85+ degrees? Probably over 90 on the I-5 asphalt.

We aren't allowed to lane-share in Washington, and I saw more than one Harley decide to give up and pull over. One was popping out it's tailpipe pretty bad before the guy stopped. Uh oh.

I have no aftermarket oil cooler, and probably could use an oil change.

I kept looking down at my XRs Only temp dipstick. Almost got to 250 degrees, but didn't get over 250 as I crawled along in second gear, coasting/idle as much as I could.

Thanks again for all the advice.

I have a week off work, so I'll probably be tinkering...
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Old 08-13-2010, 11:40 PM   #3065
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I have a few questions. i belive its true but: Can you swap the bottem of a newer xr650l engine in without the top end? Then could you bolt on a xl600 top end? Are the stator covers the same? Same bolt pattern and such can i take a cover off, oh i dont know, a20 02 and will it bolt onto my 85. as far as i am aware they are the same and the only difference is the xrl has eltric start over the xls older stlye Is this true?
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Old 08-14-2010, 09:03 AM   #3066
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrminbanshee
I have a few questions. i belive its true but: Can you swap the bottem of a newer xr650l engine in without the top end? Then could you bolt on a xl600 top end?
When I was looking for an electric start solution, it seemed the best answer was to find a dead NX650 and use it's bottom half. I really don't remember why I was looking for the NX instead of a modern XRL, so I can't say if either one would be a bolt-in swap.
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Old 08-14-2010, 09:47 AM   #3067
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I have done the inverse of what you are thinking. my engine has a xl6 bottom end and xrl top end for a xrl frame; a kick start xrl.

the xrl has different stroke than a xl6, so if you use the bottom end of a xrl, you will most likely need to use the cylinder/piston from a xrl as well. if you put the head of the xl6 on it, you will have to check to make sure the valves will clear the piston at TDC. I don't know off hand if they do.

I believe the cham-chain has a different width between xrl/xl6, so you will need to swap the gears to match, i.e. either all xl6 gears and chain or all xrl.

all the bolts match up, except for the hole in the back of the cyldinder/head that is also used by the compression bolt. there should be enough material there, that you can grind out one side to match up. this is the bolt that also holds the oil line.

off the top of my head, I don't know if the head bolts threads are the same size thread or not. if not, you will have to use the xrl bolts with the xrl cylinder, etc...

the xrl stator is 3 phase, so you will need to put the xl6 stator in it, if you plan to use the xl6 wiring harness. I believe the ignition pickup coil will work as is, but I don't recall if the connector is the same or not.


Quote:
Originally Posted by scrminbanshee
I have a few questions. i belive its true but: Can you swap the bottem of a newer xr650l engine in without the top end? Then could you bolt on a xl600 top end? Are the stator covers the same? Same bolt pattern and such can i take a cover off, oh i dont know, a20 02 and will it bolt onto my 85. as far as i am aware they are the same and the only difference is the xrl has eltric start over the xls older stlye Is this true?
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Old 08-14-2010, 10:17 AM   #3068
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrminbanshee
1.) Can you swap the bottem of a newer xr650l engine in without the top end?

2.) Then could you bolt on a xl600 top end?

3.) Are the stator covers the same?

4.) as far as i am aware they are the same and the only difference is the xrl has eltric start over the xls older stlye Is this true?
1.) Yes

2.) Yes. For simplicity, you'll need to use the XL600 cylinder and head with a 650L piston. '83-87 engines have 8mm head bolts while '88-present have 9mm bolts and larger alignment dowels. Using a 650L cylinder will require modifying the XL600 head. IMO, it's easier to just use XL cylinder. Both engines already have a 100mm bore.

3.) No. They are not interchangeable.

4.) There are actually a lot of differences between the XL600R and XR650L bottom ends.

This exact swap has been done before, FYI. It expands on all the topics that cynicwanderer brought up.
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Old 08-14-2010, 10:36 AM   #3069
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probably because the nx650 has more power and better spacing in the tranny than a xrl. they are both single carb, though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZapGuy
When I was looking for an electric start solution, it seemed the best answer was to find a dead NX650 and use it's bottom half. I really don't remember why I was looking for the NX instead of a modern XRL, so I can't say if either one would be a bolt-in swap.
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Old 08-14-2010, 12:26 PM   #3070
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZapGuy
Thought I'd share, since people ask about oil temps so much: just rode home from work. (Seattle to Tacoma in rush hour.) It's freakin hot out, for the Northwest: 85+ degrees? Probably over 90 on the I-5 asphalt.

We aren't allowed to lane-share in Washington, and I saw more than one Harley decide to give up and pull over. One was popping out it's tailpipe pretty bad before the guy stopped. Uh oh.

I have no aftermarket oil cooler, and probably could use an oil change.

I kept looking down at my XRs Only temp dipstick. Almost got to 250 degrees, but didn't get over 250 as I crawled along in second gear, coasting/idle as much as I could.

Thanks again for all the advice.

I have a week off work, so I'll probably be tinkering...
something else that people dont realise about the oil temp gauges, is that it is also kind of a low oil level gauge.

if for example you have been running down the highway and know that it shuold be up to operating temperature. if the gauge isnt saying its hot but its clear that the engine is hot then it is obvious that there is not enough oil touching the probe to get it to register any temps on the gauge. if the temp just randomly starts to go down one day youll know youve only got about 300mls of oil left.

and no, dont ask me how i know.
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Old 08-14-2010, 02:43 PM   #3071
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Things are better with my eclectic, er, electrical system. I realized I had a bad tail lite bulb. Not sure WTF it was doing, but after I changed it, my neutral light is working and blinkers go when the bike is running.

With the old dead bulb, when I hit my brakes, everything would act like it had a short somewhere and nothing was working.

Just a stupid lightbulb? Ok. Whatever. It's fixed.
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Old 08-14-2010, 02:51 PM   #3072
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cushion of static drive

hey guys

whats the difference between cushion drive and static? I know the technical difference but I want to know about driving experience. want to do a round the world trip and I am just getting my rear wheel assembled so thats why.

thanks!!

Emile
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Old 08-14-2010, 04:14 PM   #3073
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If you are adding anything electrical to the XL with a new rickystator stator, do you jsut hard wire it to the battery terminals?
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Old 08-14-2010, 05:10 PM   #3074
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emile
hey guys

whats the difference between cushion drive and static? I know the technical difference but I want to know about driving experience. want to do a round the world trip and I am just getting my rear wheel assembled so thats why.

thanks!!

Emile
I legalized my XR awhile back, and now have a few hundred street-miles on it. So far nothing has broken.

It does grab pretty hard if I am careless in shifting but it seems fine as long as I ride sensibly.

If you have the choice, I would suggest using the cush.
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Old 08-14-2010, 06:02 PM   #3075
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Esser
If you are adding anything electrical to the XL with a new rickystator stator, do you jsut hard wire it to the battery terminals?

Yep. Maybe an inline fuse.
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