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Old 02-04-2013, 06:26 PM   #6871
Oil-Burner
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Joined: Oct 2009
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86 XL600r Rear Shock Oil Change

Did a web search and didnt find any info for XLs.

I'm starting to prep our bikes to do the TLH this year and this has probably never been done on this bike . The shock works great so I don't see a need to replace the shock itself and was wondering if anyone here has experience changing the rear shock oil on an XL.

The rear shock has an air fill valve on top that could be used to drain and fill oil, like the Harley shock I changed oil in a few years ago, but I don't know what viscosity or quantity to use.

Any ideas? Anyone done this?
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Old 02-04-2013, 07:35 PM   #6872
Carter Pewterschmidt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cam14 View Post
In the process is putting my XL600 back together and want to do something a little different with the air filter. I would like to install dual air filters directly on the carbs and by-pass the factory air box. My factory air box is pretty beat up already and the rubber snorkels makes remove and installing the carbs very difficult.

Has anyone documented their successful factory air box replacement? Have not have not found anything whilst searching.
If I removed the air box completely, then where does one mount the battery and related wiring?

TIA
I plan on running an open air filter setup and I couldn't find any info on pods either. So I don't know if I'm going to do the pods or do a different type of air filter setup. Either way I plan on fabbing up an aluminum tray to hold electrics and the battery. I'll make a thread about it when I put the bike together so you'll know then.

Carter Pewterschmidt screwed with this post 02-04-2013 at 07:41 PM
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Old 02-04-2013, 07:39 PM   #6873
Carter Pewterschmidt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oil-Burner View Post
Did a web search and didnt find any info for XLs.

I'm starting to prep our bikes to do the TLH this year and this has probably never been done on this bike . The shock works great so I don't see a need to replace the shock itself and was wondering if anyone here has experience changing the rear shock oil on an XL.

The rear shock has an air fill valve on top that could be used to drain and fill oil, like the Harley shock I changed oil in a few years ago, but I don't know what viscosity or quantity to use.

Any ideas? Anyone done this?
The stock shock does not have an air valve on it because it's a non rebuild-able unit. You may have some sort of aftermarket piece, maybe a shock off another bike, or sometimes people weld one into the stock shock so it can be rebuilt. Put some pictures of up of that thing from a few angles and we can help you identify it.
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Old 02-04-2013, 07:47 PM   #6874
jaredtowne
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Hey guys.. I need some help with some XL stator wiring.. I have this aftermarket 200w stator. it is NOT going to an XL harness. It is going to a homemade jobbie with a 200w DC reg/rec.

In the following pic is the wires I have to work with,, The asshats I got this thing from could offer little to no help. I understand black/red is my ignition... I ASSUME the two whites are what I will hook up to my reg/rec (4 wire reg/rec). Then the green again,, i ASSUME is a ground? where the heck does it go? isnt the stator itself already ground to the engine through the bolts?.. Then the yellow??? another AC output? dont know! ... Any help on this is GREATLY appreciated!




My wiring is as follows - Battery -fuse- keyswitch, all lighting has its individual ground back to the block. The chassis was NOT used as a ground as of yet. or should the chassis still be connected to the (-) side?? is that required for the ignition?
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:28 PM   #6875
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carter Pewterschmidt View Post
The stock shock does not have an air valve on it because it's a non rebuild-able unit. You may have some sort of aftermarket piece, maybe a shock off another bike, or sometimes people weld one into the stock shock so it can be rebuilt. Put some pictures of up of that thing from a few angles and we can help you identify it.
Thanks for the reply Carter I did not know that about the XL rear shock, maybe it is newer then i thought . I have not removed it yet, so the pics are limited to the top and bottom of the housing. However I did notice a number stamped into the top housing so that might help.

I'm iPad challenged so I apologize for the large pics, but they do give good detail



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Old 02-04-2013, 08:54 PM   #6876
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davek181 View Post
I haven't done the HID conversion but I have pondered it. The advantages of course are the higher light output, but the disadvantages outweigh that in my opinion.

The major disadvantage on an XL is the necessary Dc conversion to the headlight. I have read stories of lights shutting off due to voltage and/or battery reserves being low, and an XL is marginal that way anyhow since the DC circuitry is not utilized or designed very heavy. Bulb expense and vibration resistance fears compound my reluctance.

Maybe as an auxiliary light but there I would probably opt for LED driving lights instead keeping in mind current draw limitations.
I have a 200w stator to work with, and they make AC ballast now so no need for DC conversion. You can get a dual bulb setup with a HID low side and halogen high side. So I guess if the ballast goes you can just switch to the high side. I am assuming anyway. I guess I will have to find a kit and give it a try.

Chris
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Old 02-04-2013, 09:26 PM   #6877
Carter Pewterschmidt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oil-Burner View Post
Thanks for the reply Carter I did not know that about the XL rear shock, maybe it is newer then i thought . I have not removed it yet, so the pics are limited to the top and bottom of the housing. However I did notice a number stamped into the top housing so that might help.

I'm iPad challenged so I apologize for the large pics, but they do give good detail
Well for starters it doesn't look like it has a remote res so it's probably not a Works shock or a Honda Showa unit. It's aluminum bodied and kind of shaped like a Wilbers maybe it's an old one of those. Sure has a lot of dampening adjustment settings lol

If no one else can figure it out I'd probably send those pictures to race tech or some other suspension shop and they may be able to figure out what kind it is and what oil to fill it with.
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Old 02-05-2013, 05:20 AM   #6878
mcma111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oil-Burner View Post
Thanks for the reply Carter I did not know that about the XL rear shock, maybe it is newer then i thought . I have not removed it yet, so the pics are limited to the top and bottom of the housing. However I did notice a number stamped into the top housing so that might help.

I'm iPad challenged so I apologize for the large pics, but they do give good detail




Looks like a WP or White Power shock
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Old 02-05-2013, 09:29 AM   #6879
beardothebeardo
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Upper RPM breakdown

OK, got a problem with the upper rpm's on my 86 XL6. Runs out clean, crisp and quickly until about the last 1/5th of throttle. Basically WOT. I have a new Ricky Stator, coil, wire and plug. Went through the carbs. and the only known problem in the carbs is the diaphragm for the air valve. There is a pin hole in it, but was under the impression that it was strictly for decel. Is this the problem, or should I be looking at the CDI? This problem is completely consistent. I would very much like to get this problem sorted. Other than that, it runs well.
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Old 02-05-2013, 10:17 AM   #6880
davek181
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What are you running for main jets? Super trapp with too few disks?

If it is consistently repeatable I would guess one of the above problems, or something like that.
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Old 02-05-2013, 10:24 AM   #6881
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davek181 View Post
What are you running for main jets? Super trapp with too few disks?

If it is consistently repeatable I would guess one of the above problems, or something like that.
Stock mains, 118 Primary, 115 Secondary, stock exhaust. Valves adjusted and rechecked.
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Old 02-05-2013, 11:43 AM   #6882
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Originally Posted by Moparmanpete View Post
Was it running fine before this?
What maintainace or changes were made before this occured?
Was the engine cold or hot or warm?
Weather?

There are alot of variable that need to answered,
For example if you pulled the carb off recently it could be an air leak, if the engine was hot it could be the cdi stalling from thermal breakdown, fuel demand is high at WOT and could be resticted by and weak fuel line collapsing or a dirty petcock.

It's a pain in the ass trouble shooting but with all the info it's easy.

Pete
I bought this bike as a non-runner. And has been present since I got it going. Line from the tank is new, just installed last week. Petcock has been cleaned out. I have had the carbs off multiple times as I progressed. This problem is present from the time I kick the bike to life (only one or two kicks, when regularly used), until I decide to shut it off. I'm stumped.
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Old 02-05-2013, 12:25 PM   #6883
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Sounds a little lean on the mains to me. I would try the 118 in the secondary and 120 in the primary for starters, or go to 122 on the primary alone. I have a super-Trapp on mine and I am running 125, 115.

Depending on altitude you want 119 to 123 overall main jet sizing I have found. Add both sizes and divide by two to get overall. IE 115, 118 /2= 116.5 overall average. mine 125,115 /2= 120 overall. I seem to get better low end performance jetting the primary richer while keeping my overall ratio in the range I like. For summer my next trial will be 130, 108, which will yield 119, which is pretty right on my bike for summer.
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Old 02-05-2013, 12:38 PM   #6884
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moparmanpete View Post
Well you already know you have a leaky diaphram, Several pages back someone found a source from another year,
May not be it but one less worn out part

Try spraying carb cleaner around the air boot ends and listen for rpm change.

Part of me thinks restiction of fuel- even if the jet looks clean the secondary jet is varnished up and reducing flow. These damn carbs are so damn sensitive to dirt it's not funny. I strongly suggest an inline filter and fuel treatment to prevent ethanol corrosion.


Dumb question? How close are you getting to the rev limiter?


Pete
I hate writing out what my back ground is. Maybe we all should start putting what experience we have in our signatures, just as a heads up. I have done all that you have talked about. That's why I mentioned having the carbs off multiple times. Just to double and triple check myself. The only other part I can think of is the actual ignition pick-up not picking up as the revs rise. But one would think that would be affecting at all RPMs.

Starving for fuel was the first thought through my head, and will probably triple check all that again.

I was hoping there was something obscure with these bikes that I was missing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by davek181 View Post
Sounds a little lean on the mains to me. I would try the 118 in the secondary and 120 in the primary for starters, or go to 122 on the primary alone. I have a super-Trapp on mine and I am running 125, 115.

Depending on altitude you want 119 to 123 overall main jet sizing I have found. Add both sizes and divide by two to get overall. IE 115, 118 /2= 116.5 overall average. mine 125,115 /2= 120 overall. I seem to get better low end performance jetting the primary richer while keeping my overall ratio in the range I like. For summer my next trial will be 130, 108, which will yield 119, which is pretty right on my bike for summer.
Stock main jets shouldn't produce what I'm going through. If so, then all these bikes when new would have gone through the same thing. They didn't, and that's why I rule that out.
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Old 02-05-2013, 01:18 PM   #6885
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These were known to be lean when new. Back in those days you would nurse it home lean from the showroom and pull the bowls to rejet. Gas has evolved since then too, reed vapor pressure has changed as has octane, and beneficial additives are virtually nonexistent these days.

I have done extensive experimentation with jetting and needles and slides over the years to get to where I am now. I hate to pull the carbs so I have figured out ways to do nearly everything with carbs in place. I did have to pull them off last year to replace the decell diaphragm finally, I just got tired of the backfires.
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