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Old 08-13-2012, 02:58 AM   #2356
mas335
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Piedmont region NC
Oddometer: 1,853
I do but it is missing the internal wire clamp that holds the filter in place, with your skills I know you can rig one up.


While I am at it, I have a 88 NX650 main frame for sale, no title, excellent condition, cheap if anyone is interested send me a PM .

Located in N.Carolina and shipping is available.
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Old 08-13-2012, 08:55 PM   #2357
Pablo83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigtrailie View Post
I am trying to assemble the top end of the carb. I'm trying to compress the spring, and close the top cover, but it looks like the diaphram isn't staying in the groove at the top of the carb body. Are there any tricks to get the rubbery diaphram to stay put while you close the top cover?
These can be a pain. Try this: push the diaphragm down and slide it into the carb so it's just barely touching it's mating surface (you'll need to put a finger in the carb bore to hold the slide up for this). Now insert the spring and then install the lid. Hope this isn't too confusing.
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Old 08-15-2012, 01:13 PM   #2358
thewxman
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A while back, I had some problems with my bike not starting whithout having the full choke on, and stalling while stopped unless the choke was on. I was told that it only needed to be re-jetted. So I started to re-jet it myself, until I mangled a screw holding the throttle barrel on to the carb body. I tried to get it out, but made things worse. So I eventually found a shop that would work on such an old bike. I took it in and let them look at it. I got a call a few days later, and they said that the carb didn't need to be re-jetted as it had the stock jets and they were fine, only cleaned. I picked it up the next day, and it was great! It didn't need the choke on to start, didn't stall, and it idled at the correct speed!!

But they didn't replace or remove the stripped screw... They got around it by taking the throttle cable off.. and wanted to charge me more to have the screw removed...

Fast forward to this week...

I tried to start it up Monday like I had been, without any choke, but it wouldn't start until I pulled the choke all the way out. Then on my commute, it would stall as I was stopping (Pulled the clutch in and applied the brakes, and as I was slowing, the RPM's would drop until it stalled)

So what's up? Did the shop just give me the run around, and it really needs to be re-jetted, or does it need to be cleaned once a month?
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Old 08-15-2012, 04:12 PM   #2359
FLICKIT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thewxman View Post
But they didn't replace or remove the stripped screw... They got around it by taking the throttle cable off.. and wanted to charge me more to have the screw removed
I had a similar issue with one of those screw and did the same thing, removed the cables from the plate so I could remove the carb.... It was no real issue so I didn't bother replacing the screw...

If you want to replace the screw... With the carb out on a bench, if there's anything left for a screwdriver to grab into, put a screwdriver in the head, then tap the screwdriver a couple of times with a hammer while trying to turn it, it'll probably loosen up... If there isn't anything for the screwdriver to grab onto you'll have to try and cut a new slot across the head with a small hacksaw blade, then use a flat blade screwdriver (with a couple of taps with a hammer).

Quote:
So what's up? Did the shop just give me the run around, and it really needs to be re-jetted, or does it need to be cleaned once a month?
You've probably got crap in the fuel tank that's flowing through and blocking the jets or something... You can probably shine a flashlight into the (near empty) tank to see if there's any chunks floating around in the there...

Maybe flush the tank out and/or install a decent fuel filter...

Goodluck :)
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Old 08-15-2012, 04:21 PM   #2360
sw3dl1
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I wouldn't think it would need cleaning every month!!
I'm still trying to figure out how they could clean the carb without removing the stripped screw. Each time I clean one it comes apart to the last screw, goes into an Ultra-Sonic cleaner then blown out with compressed air. I run a jet opener through the Primary and Main jets to make sure all the openings are clear, then back together with what ever new parts I believe it needs.
Do you have a fuel filter on this bike? A filter on the fuel line between the gas tank and the carb?
From your description it sounds as though the primary jets are again dirty. I would believe the carb was not throughly cleaned and some piece of crud or dirt has lodged it's self in the primary circuit restricting fuel to through the jet.
The outher thought is that the tank is dirty or rusty inside and is sucking crud into the carb.
Check your tank, make sure it is clean.
Exactly which screw is stripped?
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Old 08-17-2012, 08:31 PM   #2361
thewxman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLICKIT View Post
You've probably got crap in the fuel tank that's flowing through and blocking the jets or something... You can probably shine a flashlight into the (near empty) tank to see if there's any chunks floating around in the there...

Maybe flush the tank out and/or install a decent fuel filter...

Goodluck :)
I'll check the tank as soon as I burn off some more gas, just filled it up. I'll also add a fuel filter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sw3dl1 View Post
I wouldn't think it would need cleaning every month!!
I'm still trying to figure out how they could clean the carb without removing the stripped screw. Each time I clean one it comes apart to the last screw, goes into an Ultra-Sonic cleaner then blown out with compressed air. I run a jet opener through the Primary and Main jets to make sure all the openings are clear, then back together with what ever new parts I believe it needs.
Do you have a fuel filter on this bike? A filter on the fuel line between the gas tank and the carb?
From your description it sounds as though the primary jets are again dirty. I would believe the carb was not throughly cleaned and some piece of crud or dirt has lodged it's self in the primary circuit restricting fuel to through the jet.
The outher thought is that the tank is dirty or rusty inside and is sucking crud into the carb.
Check your tank, make sure it is clean.
Exactly which screw is stripped?
It is the screw that holds the throttle body onto the carb. It makes it easier to take the throttle body off of the carb without having to completely remove the throttle cable.


I would go out there and clean it myself, but I don't have a garage and I'm not allowed to wrench in the parking lot...

Thanks for the help!
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Old 08-17-2012, 08:55 PM   #2362
sw3dl1
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It is the screw that holds the throttle body onto the carb. It makes it easier to take the throttle body off of the carb without having to completely remove the throttle cable.


I would go out there and clean it myself, but I don't have a garage and I'm not allowed to wrench in the parking lot...

Thanks for the help![/QUOTE]

OK, I understand now.
It sounds like garbage in the primary jet. Install the filter and run a little SeaFoam through it maybe it will clean up. I've never had a lot of luck with fuel aditives, but it's worth a try. If not, it has to come apart again.
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Old 08-18-2012, 02:54 AM   #2363
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Some "Dominator Porn" to brighten the page up











8 mins, a couple of small water crossings and some puddles: (the above water crossing is at the end)


6 mins through a dense wet forest


Part -B - 12 mins (Swanston Track, the other 2 parts are on youtube, or in the thread below)


(if you're bored) There's a few other pics and videos here:
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...18696&page=344

:)
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Old 08-18-2012, 07:54 AM   #2364
jj5
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Is there a difference between de the nx650 RD02 91-94 sprocket and chainset compared to the RD02 88-89?

Its time to give my NX some TLC
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Old 08-18-2012, 11:52 AM   #2365
Carl.Custer
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Location: Bethesda, MD USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dstriffler View Post
I posted a wanted ad for fairings....my current fairings look fine but the inner tabs are broken. This prevents me from buying and attaching the inner fairing pieces that connect the plastic around the speedo/tach to the fairings. So my thought was to just buy new fairings, and these small inner pieces, and keep my current fairings as a backup just in case. I would love to find fairings the original color, because cmsnl has fairings that will fit but one would be white and the other red. I could always just have them painted, but it would save time and money if they were already correctly color matched. This has been a tremendous help though, I really appreciate everyone's input!
[Carl]: I repaired some of my 88's tabs with epoxy and Fibreglas. Made one new tab from acrylic and Fibreglas. Replaced a lot of screws with SS Acorn head bolts and nylon insert nuts.
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Old 08-18-2012, 03:35 PM   #2366
DualDog
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Plastic tab reapir

My KLR650 had some bad plastic tabs on it. Fron their web site there was a suggestion that you mix crazy glue with baking soda and it forms a plastic type cement that must be used almost instantly as it dries super fast. This has worked tremendously on these type of repairs when I tried it. I would do it outside as it does put off some nasty funes/vapors that are probably not too healthy.
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Old 08-18-2012, 03:44 PM   #2367
thewxman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sw3dl1 View Post
OK, I understand now.
It sounds like garbage in the primary jet. Install the filter and run a little SeaFoam through it maybe it will clean up. I've never had a lot of luck with fuel aditives, but it's worth a try. If not, it has to come apart again.
Picked up some SeaFoam this morning. Poured a little bit into the tank and took a 15 mile or so ride. It stalled three or four times, but towards the end of the ride it started behaving better. Went through several stop signs and lights and some slow turns without it stalling! I wont accredit it to the SeaFoam yet. I'll give it some more time to work through the system and report back later.

I looked in the tank and it looked spotless. Could the ethanol in the gas cause buildups?
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Old 08-18-2012, 09:19 PM   #2368
dstriffler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DualDog View Post
My KLR650 had some bad plastic tabs on it. Fron their web site there was a suggestion that you mix crazy glue with baking soda and it forms a plastic type cement that must be used almost instantly as it dries super fast. This has worked tremendously on these type of repairs when I tried it. I would do it outside as it does put off some nasty funes/vapors that are probably not too healthy.

I'm starting to realize that repairing the tabs will be the only way to really solve the problem. I'm lucky my fairings aren't scratched, or cracked, just a few broken tabs. I've found a few people online willing to sell their fairings, but I can expect those to have a few broken tabs as well. I recently bought a used fairing online from a cycle breaker, who claimed the fairing was mint. I specifically asked over the phone if there were any broken tabs and they told me the tabs we all fine. When the fairing arrives at my house, not only were ALL the tabs broken, but the fairing was cracked and there were holes drilled in it! I was furious and got my money back, and they told me to just keep the fairing. So I'll experiment fixing the tabs with epoxy or superglue + baking soda on this fairing before trying anything on my good fairings.
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Old 08-19-2012, 07:46 AM   #2369
sw3dl1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dstriffler View Post
I'm starting to realize that repairing the tabs will be the only way to really solve the problem. I'm lucky my fairings aren't scratched, or cracked, just a few broken tabs. I've found a few people online willing to sell their fairings, but I can expect those to have a few broken tabs as well. I recently bought a used fairing online from a cycle breaker, who claimed the fairing was mint. I specifically asked over the phone if there were any broken tabs and they told me the tabs we all fine. When the fairing arrives at my house, not only were ALL the tabs broken, but the fairing was cracked and there were holes drilled in it! I was furious and got my money back, and they told me to just keep the fairing. So I'll experiment fixing the tabs with epoxy or superglue + baking soda on this fairing before trying anything on my good fairings.
I've repaired a few of my NX650 Fairing tabs and cracks with PVC Cement that is used for PVC sprinkler pipe (the black type). It works great.
These fairings respond to the cement perfectly. The PVC Cement actually melts the plastice and forms a bond better then any epoxy I've used.
Clean the cracked areas with a dremmel type tool and sculpt the inside of the crack into a "V" shape so that the "V" is about 50% through the Fairing plastic. Apply the cement graciously over the crack on the back side of the fairing. Move the fairinf pieces back and forth a little to make sur the Cement is through the entire crack. Make sure the carck is lined up. Set the fairing aside, LEAVE IT ALONE, let it cure for 24 hours. It will dry hard and strong. You can reattach broken tabs and posts the same way,
If you are trying to repair larger or longer cracks, use some fiber glass matting on the back side. Prepair the crack as described above and put on a heavy coat of PVC Cement on the back side of the fairing. While the Cement is still wet, place your fiber glass matting over the crack onto the wet cement. Make sure the fiber glass is well seated in the wet glue then put another coat of cement over the top of the matting. The repair will be as strong or stronger then the rest of the fairing.
The front surface of the fairing can be sanded and the crack filled with flexable body putty, primed and painted.
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Old 08-21-2012, 02:32 PM   #2370
Pablo83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jj5 View Post
Is there a difference between de the nx650 RD02 91-94 sprocket and chainset compared to the RD02 88-89?

Its time to give my NX some TLC
I don't know if there is a difference in gearing, but there is probably a different output shaft on the tranny. The 88-89 has a 6 spline output shaft and the 91-94 probably (I'm not positive) has a 13 spline shaft which means they require different countershaft sprockets.
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