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Old 02-25-2013, 09:08 PM   #2806
slowhatch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Honda Scoot View Post
Yes to time consuming. Not to mention stinky and plastic chips from the dremel going everywhere. Wife of 32 years puts up with it. 17 places needed attention and the rear fender has not been touched. That PlastiFix REALLY WORKS. Long term will tell how well.

It has been slow and tedious, but I came home for lunch today to find a package from MMOTOPARTS. Needless to say my enthusiasm for this project got a giant boost!

Very nice. I was looking at this rack before I found an OE one. Still may purchase one at some point because of how much coverage it offers. His original design used an aftermarket rear fender. I'm glad to see he has incorporated the stock fender now instead. Did you get to choose the color or do you have to paint it?
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Old 02-26-2013, 04:29 AM   #2807
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowhatch View Post
Hepco and Becker question. From everything I read the crash bars are less than a perfect fit when you go to put them on and require some manuvering to get them to align properly. I'm install my new set of engine bars and the right side bar has a problem hitting the right air deflector on the inside once everything is tight. Has anyone else had the same problem or do I need to just slot the holes a little more on the bars and make it work?
Throw up a pic for references.
Yeah the bars hit my exhaust on a 93 so I had to take out the grinder!
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Old 02-26-2013, 10:59 AM   #2808
Honda Scoot
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Originally Posted by slowhatch View Post
Did you get to choose the color or do you have to paint it?
It is powder coated white from MMotoparts. When I was going through the check out process, it asked which color was wanted.
I chose white to match the color that the frame and engine guard will be painted for the Rothmans paint scheme.
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Old 02-26-2013, 01:39 PM   #2809
dstriffler
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And the email from sprocket specialists:

Unfortunately, I do not have access to what the OEM looks like, but I suspect it has two tapped and drilled holes. Our sprockets are aftermarket of course and
Are too spec with the OEM, however we do not drill and tap holes in it. Our part number 5033 comes with a retainer clip.

Thank you,

DeeDee Sarao
Office Manager
Sprocket Specialists
(530) 533-0802
(530) 533-0663 Fax
deedee@sprocketspecialists.com


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Old 02-27-2013, 02:10 AM   #2810
Bounder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dstriffler View Post
And the email from sprocket specialists:

Unfortunately, I do not have access to what the OEM looks like, but I suspect it has two tapped and drilled holes. Our sprockets are aftermarket of course and
Are too spec with the OEM, however we do not drill and tap holes in it. Our part number 5033 comes with a retainer clip.

Thank you,

DeeDee Sarao
Office Manager
Sprocket Specialists
(530) 533-0802
(530) 533-0663 Fax
deedee@sprocketspecialists.com


Thats strange, I have a sprocket from my 88 model with 5033 stamped on it, it has drilled and tapped holes in it.
Unless some other company makes a front sprocket for the 6 spline NX also with the part# 5033.
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:31 AM   #2811
dstriffler
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Is it the sprocket size/thickness that causes premature wear or the lack of support holes drilled in it?
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:38 AM   #2812
dstriffler
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The sprocket seems to be available on cmsnl.com. Its expensive, but I guess a necessary fix if it prevents wearing out the countershaft.


http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-nx650-198...1_23801mn9000/
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:50 AM   #2813
slowhatch
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Originally Posted by dstriffler View Post
The sprocket seems to be available on cmsnl.com. Its expensive, but I guess a necessary fix if it prevents wearing out the countershaft.


http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-nx650-198...1_23801mn9000/

Shipping cost almost as much as the sprocket as well. I noticed though if I added several to the cart shipping did not change that much. May be worth it to find a few guys to go in on buying some since they're N/A here. Just a thought.
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Old 02-27-2013, 07:56 AM   #2814
snowman318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bounder View Post
Thats strange, I have a sprocket from my 88 model with 5033 stamped on it, it has drilled and tapped holes in it.
Unless some other company makes a front sprocket for the 6 spline NX also with the part# 5033.
This came from SS http://www.sprocketspecialists.com/s...roducts/page-4
I measured both the stock rear and this one, both around 7.5 mm.
Yes shipping was almost as much as the sprocket.
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Old 02-27-2013, 08:27 AM   #2815
dstriffler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowhatch View Post
Shipping cost almost as much as the sprocket as well. I noticed though if I added several to the cart shipping did not change that much. May be worth it to find a few guys to go in on buying some since they're N/A here. Just a thought.

I would go in on sprockets if other people were interested. But otherwise I was going to buy a fairing and a few misc pieces that aren't available here, or a dozen sprockets so I'm covered for the next 25 years
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Old 02-27-2013, 08:28 AM   #2816
dstriffler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowman318 View Post
This came from SS http://www.sprocketspecialists.com/s...roducts/page-4
I measured both the stock rear and this one, both around 7.5 mm.
Yes shipping was almost as much as the sprocket.

Is that a 16T sprocket?! I've only seen 14 and 15...
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Old 02-27-2013, 08:47 AM   #2817
snowman318
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Yep, keeps the rpms down alittle on the hyway, but you seem to do alot more downshifting.
Went back to 15 for day to day riding.
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Old 02-27-2013, 09:15 AM   #2818
dstriffler
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Have you changed the rear sprocket at all? Stock is 45 but I dropped to 43 in the rear, like you said highway riding is much improved but around town I miss the unintentional wheelies!
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Old 02-27-2013, 09:54 AM   #2819
snowman318
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Still a 45. Some figure 1 tooth front is equal to 3 in the back
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Old 02-27-2013, 03:51 PM   #2820
mas335
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I haven't followed this entire discussion about the Countershaft sprocket so I am not sure what the main issue is. I do know that the OEM sprocket has been discontiuned for a while so I ordered a JT 15T sprocket.

It seems you all are concerned about the over all width or thickness so that you have a wider "foot print" on the output shaft which is wise. Since my JT sprocket is installed it is hard to get a perfect measurement but the cog itself is 6mm thick. There is a machined offset at the spines to make that area thicker, my estimation is it appears to be about 2mm so the over all thickness (width) 8mm at the center is this cog. I do not recall the back side having any such increased width or offset.

The only thing I did not like about this cog is that the raised portion at the spline bore was machined round, makes producing it much easier and cheaper but the lock plate is not round. When you tighten the locking plate screws the outer edges want to bend towards the cog because there is no metal to "shoulder" the plate against, I didn't like this. My solution was easy, I got washers that were small in overall diameter and the right thickness and put them behind the plate so the screws could tighten without bending the plate.

While typing this I seem to remember that I ground a spot on the washer edges so that they would fit closer to the machined offset portion of the cog. Seems the washers would not line up with the screws without doing this. I may also have filed the washer down to match the thickness of the offset or gap so that there was no flexing, it made for a perfect fit.

The cog number is JTF 281-15 made by JT sprockets
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