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Old 08-28-2014, 02:25 AM   #1
catweasel67 OP
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What's the best way to attach accessory cablees to the battery?

So I got my replacement Garmin 660 wiring loom today and am pondering the best way for me to install it on my AT - caveat (warning?) I'm a simple guy, especially when it comes to mechanics and electrics.

Both positive and negative are terminated in bare wire so I was thinking to "simply" solder (never done that either ) or crimp (done that) some ring terminals on them and then slap them on the battery.

Does that make sense or is there, maybe, an easier way? Possible run wires from the battery to a wiring block that I superglue somewhere?

Here's what I'm working with, and yep, that's an in-line fuse - but it's a weird one, at least not what I'd think of as a blade fuse. Oh, and it's 2 Amp.



And here's what I'm thinking might be good to use




Feel free to treat me like an idiot.

If you're wondering, back when I had a job I'd happily pay someone to install this sort of thing for me but now I have a job deficit I'm looking to...well, not fuck it up, and even better, not fuck up the bike's electrical system :)
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Old 08-28-2014, 03:21 AM   #2
Gigitt
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Fuse is standard Automotive fuse or Mini Automotive Fuse.
2A is correct.





YES - use a Crimp Ring Connector.
It should have come supplied in a baggy with some other nick nacks like zip ties etc (well it did with my 590LM gps)
Make sure the RED positive connector is protected from shorting by the red rubber terminal cap on the battery lead.






NO

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Old 08-28-2014, 03:54 AM   #3
catweasel67 OP
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Thanks Gigitt,

No sign of crimp connectors in the baggies but no worries :)

Is that an adamant no on the connector block? I was thinking of installing a USB charger for my iPhone at the same time and didn't want to end up running more wires than I have to across to the battery.
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Old 08-28-2014, 04:12 AM   #4
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You can certainly install a wiring block but those aren't what I would use. Look up blue seas fuse block. You run a power and ground wire to that and everything gets connected fuses already installed.

Note: if you just wire directly to battery those leads will always be hot. I personally like my gps like this but it will run your battery flat if you forget to turn it off or remove in your garage.

Other alternatives are to wire up a relay so the power comes on when bike is on.
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Old 08-28-2014, 05:51 AM   #5
catweasel67 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailah View Post
You can certainly install a wiring block but those aren't what I would use. Look up blue seas fuse block. You run a power and ground wire to that and everything gets connected fuses already installed.

Note: if you just wire directly to battery those leads will always be hot. I personally like my gps like this but it will run your battery flat if you forget to turn it off or remove in your garage.

Other alternatives are to wire up a relay so the power comes on when bike is on.
Ta :) It's actually a Blue Seas USB that I'm looking to install :) They're a good make as far as I know.

Thanks for the advice and suggestions :)
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Old 08-28-2014, 06:04 AM   #6
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Yeah blue seas are good units. Use good quality wire and make sure you have a good crimp connection on it. I like Ancor brand marine cable and for the small run you have it's worth it to oversize. I also heatshrink with adhesive line tubing over the crimp connectors (don't forget to put on the heatshrink BEFORE you crimp).
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Old 08-28-2014, 11:09 AM   #7
stephen.stallebrass
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If you're going to have other accessories at some point I would recommend something like the FZ1 Fuzeblock. They're dead easy to install and you can then have switched power.
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Old 08-30-2014, 08:42 PM   #8
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one extra ring on the battery terminals tends to be ok but eventually you'll be stacking up garmin, heated gear, heated grips, SAE/tender.... long enough bolts to go through all those and just might run out of clearance... and they loosen and back out at best failing to spark, worst failing to charge (maybe even frying a reg/rec)

ANYHOW... I stack everything up on the other end of the battery cables. neg at the ground strap to the starter and poz at the solenoid. with only the battery tender direct to the battery "just in case" of something loose.
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Old 08-31-2014, 12:49 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EmBeeZedEx View Post
one extra ring on the battery terminals tends to be ok but eventually you'll be stacking up garmin, heated gear, heated grips, SAE/tender.... long enough bolts to go through all those and just might run out of clearance... and they loosen and back out at best failing to spark, worst failing to charge (maybe even frying a reg/rec)

ANYHOW... I stack everything up on the other end of the battery cables. neg at the ground strap to the starter and poz at the solenoid. with only the battery tender direct to the battery "just in case" of something loose.
Aye, that was my concern - stacking terminals. I'm gonna invest in a blue seas fusebox before I add a second device and then route all power for accessories from there.

Thanks for all the responses guys :)
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Old 08-31-2014, 02:16 AM   #10
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Slightly off topic but if you ever need to replace the battery look at the Motobatt Quadflex, they're an awesome battery but it's relevant here because they have 4x terminals so you can avoid overcrowding and over stacking them with accessories. But a fuzeblock is still the best option.
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Old 08-31-2014, 05:12 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stephen.stallebrass View Post
Slightly off topic but if you ever need to replace the battery look at the Motobatt Quadflex, they're an awesome battery but it's relevant here because they have 4x terminals so you can avoid overcrowding and over stacking them with accessories. But a fuzeblock is still the best option.
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind.

Right now I'm having issues with the crimp as the ring terminal that fits the battery is simply way too large for the gauge of wire I got...grrrr...bloody thing won't crimp down..

Am I missing something obvious? I've got loads of crimp sizes but this is the only one where the ring is appropriate for the battery terminal.

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Old 08-31-2014, 06:05 AM   #12
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Yep, strip the insulation back another 1/4" . Take the bare wire, fold it back on itself, twist it a few times(so it is thicker in diameter), then insert it into the portion of eyelet to be crimped, then crimp it. But, I would slide a piece of heat shrink insulator over the wire first, before inserting twisted bare wire in eyelet for crimping. Then you can slide heat shrink over the end that was crimped, apply small amount of heat to the heat shrink material, and bingo . Nice weather resistant eyelet end.
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Old 08-31-2014, 06:13 AM   #13
catweasel67 OP
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Originally Posted by LtsGoRyd View Post
Yep, strip the insulation back another 1/4" . Take the bare wire, fold it back on itself, twist it a few times(so it is thicker in diameter), then insert it into the portion of eyelet to be crimped, then crimp it. But, I would slide a piece of heat shrink insulator over the wire first, before inserting twisted bare wire in eyelet for crimping. Then you can slide heat shrink over the end that was crimped, apply small amount of heat to the heat shrink material, and bingo . Nice weather resistant eyelet end.
Thanks :)
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Old 08-31-2014, 07:02 AM   #14
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The color of the insulation on that terminal tells what size wire it fits. Yellow is the largest wire size. Yellow is for 10 gauge wire, I think. Blue is the next size down. Blue is for 14 or 16 I think. Red is for 18 and up, the smallest. I may not have the exact proper size wires in my description but the insulation color is the size of wire.

There are lots of tricks to making this work. Sometimes I just put the terminal in the smaller jaw of my crimper. Sometimes i crimp them with a pair of vise grips. But having the proper sized terminal for your wire is probably the easiest.

The other end comes in almost any size or shape. There are dozens and dozens of these type of terminals. My electrical box has turned into a vast collection of various terminals and then when I need something I find I'm off to the store again to get more.

That wire looks like 18 or 20 gauge. you need a Red terminal. Blue will work in a pinch.
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Old 08-31-2014, 07:11 AM   #15
catweasel67 OP
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The color of the insulation on that terminal tells what size wire it fits. Yellow is the largest wire size. Yellow is for 10 gauge wire, I think. Blue is the next size down. Blue is for 14 or 16 I think. Red is for 18 and up, the smallest. I may not have the exact proper size wires in my description but the insulation color is the size of wire.

There are lots of tricks to making this work. Sometimes I just put the terminal in the smaller jaw of my crimper. Sometimes i crimp them with a pair of vise grips. But having the proper sized terminal for your wire is probably the easiest.

The other end comes in almost any size or shape. There are dozens and dozens of these type of terminals. My electrical box has turned into a vast collection of various terminals and then when I need something I find I'm off to the store again to get more.

That wire looks like 18 or 20 gauge. you need a Red terminal. Blue will work in a pinch.
Hmm, might have to hit amazon up, the Austrian electronic/electrical & automotive stores don't have the range of products that the UK (or the USA) does.
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