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Old 11-14-2007, 09:43 AM   #136
akrider
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Joined: Apr 2003
Location: Anchorage, Ak
Oddometer: 1,708
"floss" off that decal

If you need to remove a sticker from a tank or side plate just think floss.

Use your heat gun or hair dryer to loosen the glue and get one corner of the sticker loose. Then use fishing line or un waxed dental floss under the sticker. Just like flossing your teeth. Having an assistant keep the heat on the project helps.

If your air hose gets stuck under car tires in the shop, try putting old automotive brake shoes between the tire and floor. It makes a nice round corner for the hose to rub against.
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Old 11-15-2007, 05:43 PM   #137
guzzidave21
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Location: Southern Part of Heaven
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[quote=Allgonoshow]Make yourself two, maybe three babies. After a couple of years, their tiny hands will be a big asset in the shop.


I used my little brother.. Told him he had Japanese hands.
He grew up. Drats.
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Old 11-16-2007, 01:34 PM   #138
KiefferGS
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These bins on a rolling rack are fairly inexpensive (I have bought them at Sam's) and are great for seeing what you have without opening drawers. Grab a bin or two for a project and set them on the work bench. For example I keep soldering stuff in one, 12V connectors and crimpers in another, dremel and attachments in another, etc... I would five more if I had room!


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Old 11-16-2007, 07:44 PM   #139
scooteraug02
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Location: Atlanta, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thetourist
13 mm is supposed to be red, as is 9/16.

I use 3M electrical tape to mark sockets and wrenches.




http://stores.ebay.com/Steel-Labels $4.49 delivered Not mine, found on Ebay
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Old 11-19-2007, 07:16 AM   #140
lightsorce OP
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Location: Northeast North Carolina
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Thumb Grease gun temperature

I have an unheated motorcycle/maintenance shed and when the temps drop the grease becomes Playdoh. I got a large old Tupperware storage container and put my grease and greasegun in it and stored it in the closet in the house. No smells and usable grease!
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Old 11-20-2007, 05:53 PM   #141
DirtyDave
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Location: Im the only one here that doesent bleed black/gold
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Hammer and screw driver trick

Well it may work well but. What you are actually doing is stretching the threads on the likely aluminum or magnesium case. Be careful or you ma need a helicoil kit in with your hammer and screw driver the next time. Get an impact driver that you tap with a hammer their about 20 bucks at sears. This handy tool does the same thing faster and directs most of the force into rotation instead of your soft expensive case. It also fits in your saddle bag for those road side MF'ers. Dirty Oh yeh great thread.
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Old 11-22-2007, 05:54 PM   #142
Chubber
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Location: Minneola, Central Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scooteraug02
http://stores.ebay.com/Steel-Labels $4.49 delivered Not mine, found on Ebay
I just bought two sets, one for the sockets and one for the wrenches. Now I have to clean my sockets and wrenches really well. Sheesh.
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Old 11-23-2007, 02:22 PM   #143
FrisbeeR1200GS
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Location: Southern Ohio, and North East Wisconsin
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EVERY time I move something that's in my way, to a different part of my garage.....in less than 15 minutes it's back to being in the way. Sorry, I don't have a solution...that's your job!!
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Old 11-23-2007, 04:49 PM   #144
Timmer
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My knee needed to be drained of fluid. When I saw the size of the syringe they used, I asked if I could have it. It works great with a little tubing on the end to remove or install fluids. The bonus feature is that it's graduated.

Need to install a phillips or caphead screw in a hard to reach location? Put a little chassis grease on the head of the screw and let grease help stick it to the screw driver.


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Old 11-23-2007, 07:29 PM   #145
worldrider555
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To Get rid of rust on parts and tools, use the electrolysis method

1. Get a Large Plastic Tub
2. Fill it up with water.
3. For every gallon of water add washing soda. (or baking soda)
4. Put rusted part in tub.
5. Put a piece of iron or stainless steel in the tub.
6. Hook the negative end of a battery charger to the part to be cleaned, and the positive to the piece of iron.
7.It should start to bubble, let sit for a few hours, and pull out and all the rust should be able to be wiped off with a paper towel.

Works great, just did it to a nail pull i left outside
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Old 11-24-2007, 07:38 PM   #146
bullfrog
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Damn, I am lovin' this thread...

Here's a trick that I haven't seen here yet:



Got a filthy/crusty foam air filter???

Joe's Hand Cleaner or GoJo to the rescue!!!

Cuts through that grime FAST...
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Old 11-24-2007, 08:11 PM   #147
Motojournalism
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This thread rawks



(Oxygen tank, swim fins, novelty bronze condom)
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Old 11-24-2007, 08:31 PM   #148
scooteraug02
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Location: Atlanta, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bullfrog
Damn, I am lovin' this thread...

Here's a trick that I haven't seen here yet:



Got a filthy/crusty foam air filter???

Joe's Hand Cleaner or GoJo to the rescue!!!

Cuts through that grime FAST...
That's good. GoJo works to get finger prints off of oxidized paint too.

I asked an expert about cleaning air filters and he said
Mineral Spirits to cut the oil, then Dawn grease cutting dish soap and water to get the rest of the dirt out.
(Get a Dawn bottle dedicated to the garage so you don't piss off the wife)
Rinse the filter good, let it air dry.
Then put your oil in a big Zip lock bag and work the oil until the filter is covered.
Or I got a plastic one gallon paint container with a lid. Pour some Air Filter oil in the container and dip the filter in the oil. Gently squeeze out the excess oil. Put the lid on the container and use the oil again.

Always use rubber gloves. You never know if these chemicals will mess with your organs.
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Old 11-24-2007, 10:54 PM   #149
Timmer
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Location: Burien, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by worldrider555
To Get rid of rust on parts and tools, use the electrolysis method

1. Get a Large Plastic Tub
2. Fill it up with water.
3. For every gallon of water add washing soda. (or baking soda)
4. Put rusted part in tub.
5. Put a piece of iron or stainless steel in the tub.
6. Hook the negative end of a battery charger to the part to be cleaned, and the positive to the piece of iron.
7.It should start to bubble, let sit for a few hours, and pull out and all the rust should be able to be wiped off with a paper towel.

Works great, just did it to a nail pull i left outside
Another way to remove rust is to soak pieces in a molasses solution.

Timmer
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Old 11-25-2007, 09:50 PM   #150
Brooklyn Rob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Curtis in Texas
OK, I'd like to play this one too!

Here's how we do the Doo Hickey in Texas.

Our Tech Day last Saturday in my shop.


Harbor Freight 880 lb 120v winches mounted to an "I" beam. I use this to swap car bodys mostly, but we improvised for Tech day. The Harbor Freight Winches like these can be found on sale for less than $100 sometimes.
I have 5 of them.



This puts the engine case right at chest level and make draining the oil unnecessary.

I lift my bike up like this all the time to work on it. Back Problem!

I also used this Sunday on my KLR to lift my gas tank off the KLR while I fitted my Stebel horns under the tank. The IMS tank was almost full. And I knew there would be a lot of on and off fitting.

Here's a shot of a friends bike hanging while we worked on his engine gaurd.


I have even used the 440lb ones on my door.




Hope this gives you guys some ideas!

Curtis

Here's an even easier way to do the doo..
buy a Honda.
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