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Old 05-09-2009, 07:06 PM   #286
RandyB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P B G
That's quite similar to the bore solvent known as "Ed's Red" Made from ATF, Stoddard Solvent (or acetone), lanolin and maybe something else I am forgetting.
Wow. Haven't heard of that in ages. Good stuff. Right up there with rawhide hammers.
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Old 05-11-2009, 07:53 AM   #287
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This cost me $3, and was a GREAT investment.
ALL sandpaper goes in here.
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Old 05-11-2009, 08:35 AM   #288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skippii
This cost me $3, and was a GREAT investment.
ALL sandpaper goes in here.
Brilliant! I always struggled with this.
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Old 05-11-2009, 09:06 AM   #289
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These may have been posted but if not:
  1. Clear fingernail polish works in a pinch instead of Loctite.
  2. A camping head lamp it the trick for seeing in the dark areas and when you can not get the shop light in the proper spot.
  3. A kitchen trash can makes a good oil dry container and a used windshield washer gallon jug works good as a scoop. Just cut the bottom out of the jug. You even get a built in handle.
I am sure I have more but cannot think of them now.
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Old 05-11-2009, 07:28 PM   #290
p3ga
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Wheel bearing replacement tips

Need to replace wheel bearings?

-Place the new ones in the freezer for a day or so;
-Use a propane torch to heat the wheel hub to remove the old ones easier;
-Clean the bearing hub thoroughly, heat up with the torch (expanding the metal);
- Get new bearings from freezer;
-Install, being careful to drive bearing straight in.

I must have done 10 sets when my kid was racing the 50's. A pain, but was able to change a set out in less than 20 minutes.
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Old 05-11-2009, 07:55 PM   #291
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A quick and easy polish for carb seats after you pry out the crusted needle is a plastic spray tube chucked in a cordless drill tipped with a small bit of NevRdull cotton wadding/metal polish. The straw end is rough enough to hold the cotton and can't scratch the brasss seat. Put some dry cotton on when you're done and you can see yourself in the shine (if ya got a leetle teeny head)
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Old 05-11-2009, 08:40 PM   #292
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I keep a chop stick or two in my tool box. It seems to have a few 100 uses every year.
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Old 05-12-2009, 12:31 PM   #293
tbarstow
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I have an old vacuum cleaner in the garage with the hose attachment hooked up. When I drop a fastener/washer/nut into an inaccessible spot, I duct tape a piece of 1/4" ID vinyl tube to the end of the vacuum hose, turn on the vacuum and fish the 1/4" tube down near the escaped piece of hardware. The hardware gets sucked over to the hose and sticks to the end of the hose and retrieved.
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Old 05-12-2009, 05:42 PM   #294
swingset
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P B G
That's quite similar to the bore solvent known as "Ed's Red" Made from ATF, Stoddard Solvent (or acetone), lanolin and maybe something else I am forgetting.
Ed's Red is equal parts ATF, acetone, mineral spirits, K1 Kerosene, with several ounces of lanonin per gallon (which is optional).

I use the crap out of it for gun cleaning...but I've found the acetone can be cut way back and it still works great (acetone is nasty shit to have on you or your painted surfaces).
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Old 05-22-2009, 01:02 PM   #295
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Lots of great tips. I'm going to be stealing quite a few of them. Great thread. Since I'm taking some, I guess I could add one...

I've found either a shop vac or electric leaf blower to be pretty handy to have in the garage. Sure, you can vacuum stuff, but also, you can put the hose on the outlet end (or use the leaf blower) and use it to dry things like air filters you just cleaned or bikes you just washed.

One more, there were a few epoxy tips, let me add a few. Like you probably know, epoxy uses heat to harden. You can use this to your advantage in several ways. I saw mentioned that you can use the bottom of a beer or soda can to mix epoxy. If you use a full, unopened can right from the fridge, the cold can will keep the epoxy from hardening. So you can use 5 minute epoxy and not have to hurry. On the opposite side, you can use heat to cure it faster. But beware, heat also thins it, so you can end up with it running. If I want it to get into a tight spot or absorb into something, I'll pass the heat gun over it and it will thin and soak in. If I want 24 hour epoxy to cure fast, I'll let it set up a bit, then stick it in the oven on low. Or point a warm lamp at it. It will cure in a few hours.
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Old 05-22-2009, 04:06 PM   #296
PackRat
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I save the extra pieces I cut off the tie wraps to mix and spread epoxy.



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Old 05-22-2009, 11:08 PM   #297
Nemo DeNovo
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Laugh Chemical Warfare against Ukrainian brakes

Cool thread, never saw it before 'till LCGarage said I should post this in here.

I have a Dnepr that had been sitting outside unused for years. The brake shoes got corroded from condensation. The corrosion built up in between the backing plates and the friction material, causing the friction material to swell out and lock the brakes. I got the front one apart by brute force, and I was able to loosen the adjuster enough on the rear one. But the sidecar brake was totally locked solid, so I filled the hub with Muriatic acid to eat out the corrosion and release the brakes. Worked slicker than snot on a hare lip

"So now there's nothing but the locked brake holding the wheel on and it won't budge. Better living through chemicals I always say Tomorrow I'm gonna drag that thing outside and fill the hub with acid. Hopefully the acid will eat the corrosion out of the swollen brakes and allow them to release. Then I can get this thing all the way apart so I can start painting.



Plotting a chemical attack against my Ukrainian nemesis. You've seen the chemical agent, 32% Muriatic, the good stuff us pool guys use for tooth whitener Here's the delivery package:



Once the package was loaded, I secured a point of delivery.



The package arrived at the target on schedule. The white fog is fumes, things were getting hot.




The first strike was unsuccessful in spite of the surprise attack and superior force.



I hit the enemy again, with a second quart of chemical warfare.




The enemy was beginning to crumble I applied the tactic of "Divide and Conquer!"



Woe to Boris Bashitin! His infernal machine has been defeated



Hosed everything down to detoxify the perimeter. Amazing how nice and clean everything looks after a chemical attack




Mission accomplished for today, but stay tuned."


The above is an excerpt from my "Dnepr Resurrection" thread. Hope someone finds it entertaining at least, if not useful. I can't believe there's many other bikes with this problem.
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Old 05-23-2009, 02:45 AM   #298
LCGarage
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Hard core tip!

Nemo thanks!
Disclaimer for the rest of us:
Just like Nemo did, I think this is a great last ditch effort....just remember it's not WD40 your working with!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muriatic_acid
Yee hah!
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Old 05-23-2009, 06:09 AM   #299
Nemo DeNovo
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Muriatic (Hydrochloric) acid is good to have around a shop, it has other more common uses. When diluted with water it will remove almost any kind of corrosion, such as from battery terminals, and (in stronger solutions) removes rust from steel very well. If you use it on steel be sure to neutralize with a baking soda & water solution afterwards, or it will cause more rust.

Here's one for you two-stroke guys (of which I am one) who like to melt your pistons. When we get a snowmobile with a melted piston I use concentrated Hydrochloric to remove the melted aluminum from the cylinder walls. If you try to hone it out, it will make your cylinder out-of-round. Here's how to do it (sorry no pics):

Get Muriatic acid from Home Depot, you'll find it in the masonry department. It is used for cleaning finished brick & stone and for cleaning swimming pools before painting. Get yourself a pair of safety goggles while you're at it. Usually you'll find Muriatic anywhere from 24% to 28%, but 32% is the good stuff. Pour about 1 quart into a Pyrex or Corningware pot and heat on a gas grill or some other OUTDOOR heat source. Make sure you have lots of fresh airflow and the wind isn't blowing the fumes in your neighbor's window. Boil until the volume is reduced to 1/3 of the original amount. AVOID THE FUMES!!! They will choke you and burn your eyes. When you have boiled this stuff down, it will turn brown and syrupy. After it cools put it in a glass or plastic container with an airtight cap, and wash everything with alot of water.

You now have concentrated Hydrochloric Acid. DON'T GET ANY ON YOU!!! If you do, wash with alot of water. Take your 2-stroke cylinder and lay it on its side. Open your acid (it will give off fumes, be careful), and use a popsickle stick or something disposable to dip in the acid and drip it on the aluminum in the cylinder. It will aggressively eat the aluminum, but not do much to the steel. Keep a container of water and a wet rag to wipe out the cylinder so you can see your progress. Then dry it and reapply acid as needed 'till you get all the aluminum out. You can use an Exacto knife to scrape at the edges of the spots and try to peel the aluminum off as the acid works. Once it's all out wash the cylinder with water, then you can hone your cylinder like normal and slap in a new piston.

Note: This only works on cylinders with cast iron or steel sleeves. If a magnet won't stick to the inside of the cylinder, DON'T USE THIS.

Cheers
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Old 05-23-2009, 11:28 PM   #300
Dano 407
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I use Muratic acid, water and some clean gravel to clean the rust from the inside of steel gas tanks.

Shake and bake. Works wonders.
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