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Old 09-27-2007, 08:29 PM   #106
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Southern Ohio
Oddometer: 3,232
When an axle or swingarm, etc, has a large (>20mm Allen bolt) rather than buy an expensive hard to find large Allen Wrench go to the hardware store and buy a bolt and TWO nuts that measure (we're talking measurement of the head of the bolt as in 3/4", lengh of bolt doesn't matter) the same size as the internal distance of two opposing flat sides of the Allen bolt. Then, run the two nuts on the bolt, cram the second nut against the first to lock it then insert the bolt head into the Allen bolt then use the corresponding wrench size to turn the locked together like a charm. Sorry if this is confusing, maybe someone can explain this better.
"I never regretted any vacation that I took."
--Dad, a few months before he passed.

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Old 09-27-2007, 09:39 PM   #107
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Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Blackfoot, ID
Oddometer: 5,373
hey, thats a pretty good idea!

Hows this for simplifying: Use the head of the bolt as the allen wrench.

"I've been going to this high school for SEVEN YEARS. I'm no dummy!"
-Charles De Mar.
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Old 09-28-2007, 04:27 AM   #108
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Chester County, PA
Oddometer: 3,651
Originally Posted by zap2504
Great for all sorts of uses. I cut the side/bottom out of a windshield washer fluid jug and use it for a giant flexible scoop - I pour a jar of hardware into it when I'm looking for a bolt/washer/nut/screw and can pour the contents back into the jar when finished. Cut the sides of another jug into large strips so you can put them under tire irons to avoid scratching wheels. Drill a hole in the cap of another jug the same size as the OD of a 1/4" fuel line and use as a gallon aux fuel tank. Cut a rectangular hole in the side of an antifreeze fluid jug as an oil change catch basin (using the original spout to pour the oil into a recycling container).
Another good one is to take those laundry detergent jugs with the drip-proof pour spouts and thouroghly clean them out so you can use them as an oil transfer container. I clean them out so there's no residue left, then re-label them with the brand, weight, and type of oil I put in. The little spout makes it easy to pour in tight spaces and any drips go back in the jug instead of all over the engine. Just make sure to clean them well inside, around the spout, and even the cap or your enginge will suds up like an overflowing washing machine. DAMHIK

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Old 09-29-2007, 04:55 PM   #109
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Mudpuddle Maine
Oddometer: 1,840
Got a boogered-up screw slot or a boogered-up Phillips head screw?
Use two hacksaw blades together to cut a slot wide enough for a screwdriver.
Put two of them in a frame or tape two of them together and saw away.
When you're using the screw driver in the newly excavated slot, put an adjustable wrench (all-sizes) onto the flat of the screwdriver as you apply downward pressure. Use the adjustable wrench to do the turning. With square-shank screwdrivers, you can put the adjustible wrench at any convenient place along the shaft. Helps take the wrist strain out of loosening the screw.

Got a bushing in a shouldered hole that has to be removed? Screw an appropriate sized tap into the bushing and drive it out from the back side. Bottoming taps work best as the business end of the tap is flat, making it a better surface for the drift.
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Old 09-29-2007, 10:16 PM   #110
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Vancouver Canada & Blaine Washington
Oddometer: 21

if you need light, mount small switchable LED's on the sides of your safety goggles. you're more likely to wear them and protect your eyes and that leaves your hands and mouth free for other tasks.
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Old 09-29-2007, 10:54 PM   #111
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Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Northern B.C.
Oddometer: 324
Need to bleed brakes quickly on the cheap? Attach a 10cc syringe to the bleed valve with a short piece of rubber hose. Crack the valve and suck fluid through the system with the it a few times and keep filling the speed bleeder for 50 cents going. I finally got rid of all the air in my front brake lines!
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Old 10-03-2007, 05:47 PM   #112
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Joined: Mar 2005
Location: Edge O' the Woods, New Mexico
Oddometer: 50
bearing grease packing

I saw a short video clip (and I don't know where, and didn't bookmark it).

Some one packed grease around a tapered bearing, put it in one of those kitchen vacuum food saver bags. Turned it on and all of the grease SUCKED into the air voids of the bearing neatly filling it completely with grease. (WTF simple physics right?). I have not tried this YET. But I'm dying to.

If you find this video post it OK?

When using valve grinding compound the oil based (harder to find, but worth it, my little jar is 10 years old, and plenty left) is much better than the water based for stripped Phillips heads etc.

Gasket removal: The chemical types are the shit, but also. A $10.00 harbor Freight angle (air) grinder with a 3M twist type arbor. Get, from everyone from Snap-On to H/F, an attachment (wheel), specifically for gasket removal. It looks like a disk with cylindrical tits sticking up, supposedly hard enough to remove gasket, but not remove aluminum. Also the disks with Scotch Bright work well also.

No matter how clean I get my hands cleaned, grabbing a block of cheese still leaves black fingerprints in it, so this must be the best hand cleaner in the world.

RTV tubes? PLUGGED? Use the tapered attachment it comes with, leave it on when done. Yes leave it on!! Store it, and the RTV will harden in the nozzle, but not plug the RTV tube. When ready to use again, remove nozzle, push hardened RTV out from the narrow end, backwards, and go to work. This may not work after a year or more, but I never have this problem. If you put the cap on the RTV tube it is guaranteed to harden right at the opening. If this happens in an emergency late night fix, don't fuck with it (trying to unplug it) cut a small corner off of the bottom of the tube, and buy a new one for next time.

Yes latex gloves are the bomb.

Stuck Phillips screws? Before going to drastic measures, try this.
Get one of those spring loaded punches ( the type you push, and go snap)
Ask the harbor freight, or Lowes dude.
start snapping it in to the head of the screw to make a divot, the deeper the better, and then re-direct it to impart a force to un-thread it, like you used to do with an old chisel to back the screw out. Once it breaks loose remove with a screwdriver, or keep "snapping" it out until you can get vice grips on it.

DO NOT overlook this trick, I didn't believe it until I watched a guy get an impossibly struck screw loose this way.

Cover your tank when servicing hydraulic brake, and clutch master cylinders. Brake fluid is a wonderful paint stripper.

KROIL (oil) penetrating oil is one of the best, as mentioned.

Red Loctite must be heated to be removed.

BE PATIENT. as in removing a sticker with a heat gun (or blow dryer), let the glue come loose , as you pull SLOWLY, instead of tearing off little pieces, LET IT RELEASE, it is slow.

BE PATIENT, and when one method of of stuck bolt, stripped head, etc method isn't working. Try different methods combined. You will get there.

STOP BEFORE YOU DESTROY. Come back later, and it will work out.

Nothings worse than destroying something, because you are determined to "beat it".

Have FUN , turn on some music, but walk away if you get super frustrated. A twenty minute break has fixed a lot of unsolvable problems for me.

Oh yeah did I say have FUN, AND there's lots of help on the internet, It's amazing what you find if you GOOGLE stuck bolt.
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Old 10-06-2007, 10:02 AM   #113
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Joined: Sep 2007
Oddometer: 592
Being a restaurant mgr, I always have an endless supply of these.

I use the plastic jugs that our fryer oil comes in to dispose of old motor oil, gear oil, etc. Ours are in roughly 5 gallon sizes, with a nice, secure screw top, and a handle. Makes for easier transport to the auto store for recycling.

I'm sure any local restaurant near you would let you take an empty or two if you just asked (I know I wouldn't mind).

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Old 10-06-2007, 09:52 PM   #114
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Joined: Mar 2002
Location: N.E. Ohio
Oddometer: 1,071
Tooth Brushes

Save your old tooth brushes. Clean as much of the toothpaste build up from the base of the bristles as you can. Sometimes very hot water and soak time will make it loosen up for easier removal. Use an electric hair clipper to shave the bristles down to different lengths. Do this in small bites as the blades tend to load up with the nylon bits. This will serve to give the brush stiffer properties as you work on different areas of the bike. I like them for cleaning carb bodies and getting into tight areas. Childrens brushes work well for small hard to get to places and their narrower handles are strong and stiff enough to bring pressure to bare on stubborn spots. When the brush gets to crudy;toss it. I keep one in a plastic sandwich bag along side the the tube of Honda Moly-60 for spline lubes.
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Old 10-07-2007, 08:20 AM   #115
Bruce Caldwell
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Location: Brazoria , Tx.
Oddometer: 1,016
I didn't have time to read through all the posts so forgive if this one has already been mentioned. I repair jewelry on the side & my headband magnifiers come in real handy for working on my bike as well. I recently used them so I could see to bend the little tabs for the wires on the connector for my heated grips on my 1100GS. I couldn't have seen the little cocksuckers without them.

Guaranteed not to cause eternal torment in the place where the guy with the horns & pointed stick conducts his business...Frank Zappa
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Old 10-07-2007, 08:08 PM   #116
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Way, Way North GA
Oddometer: 8,348
I was working under the truck today (ok I worked on the bike first) and used one of the magnetic bowls to hold the nuts and bolts I needed. The trick is I mounted the bowl upside down to the frame so I could see what I needed and grab it rather than roll over and look for it on the ground.

I wonder where that road goes?
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Old 10-08-2007, 09:11 PM   #117
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Joined: Apr 2003
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Oddometer: 875
You know, I've never made that lock-two-nuts-onto-a-bolt thing work for me, maybe if I got serious and loc-tited it all. But you know what works well?

Grab a bolt with the right size head and file/grind the threaded end down to a square or hex end which you can grab with a spanner or socket.

Even better, if you've got some cheapo sockets lying around, file it down with a slight taper and interference fit (hammer it) into a cheapo socket ... instant hex key socket.

Along the same lines: if you've got a shaft drive bike and you blow a uni joint, keep the halves and weld a half to a bit of pipe ... tada, instant output shaft holder, handy when reassembling engines on the bench.

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Old 10-08-2007, 10:36 PM   #118
Preshrunk & Cottony
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: The only county in Illinois with no train tracks
Oddometer: 5,358
You can also just grab the shank of the bolt with a pair of vise grips, I made a 17mm wrench when I needed it for my beetle back in high school by heating a bolt and putting a 90 degree bend in it.
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Old 10-09-2007, 06:10 PM   #119
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Chester County, PA
Oddometer: 3,651
Originally Posted by DirtDabber
I was working under the truck today (ok I worked on the bike first) and used one of the magnetic bowls to hold the nuts and bolts I needed. The trick is I mounted the bowl upside down to the frame so I could see what I needed and grab it rather than roll over and look for it on the ground.
That is freaking brilliant. Thanks, I'll be using that one.

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Old 10-12-2007, 03:04 PM   #120
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Joined: Jul 2004
Location: Wilton NY
Oddometer: 285
Originally Posted by DirtDabber
I was working under the truck today (ok I worked on the bike first) and used one of the magnetic bowls to hold the nuts and bolts I needed. The trick is I mounted the bowl upside down to the frame so I could see what I needed and grab it rather than roll over and look for it on the ground.
And if you are really super cheap, pirate the magnet off of one of the old speakers that you pulled out of your high school era Camero. You don need no fancy schmancy chrome bowl......just a magnet.

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