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Old 10-12-2007, 05:21 PM   #121
Delusions of Adequacy
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Joined: Sep 2005
Location: New Hampsha
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Originally Posted by KLboxeR
Locking medical forceps are the shit. They are called "hemostats."
Source for cheap hemostats:

They're made in Cheapistan but they're cheap and perfectly adequate for motorcycle surgery.

Great for pinching gas lines; as a "third hand" to hold a part while you work on or around it; for retrieving parts dropped into recesses or crannies; etc.

Same place also sells cheap dental tools---picks, etc--- that can be handy in a tol box.
2005 GL1800
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Old 10-13-2007, 08:04 PM   #122
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Chester County, PA
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Car upholstery cleaner

This isn't really a trick, rather it's a recommendation. I figured I'd put it here in case someone is thinking about cleaning up thier car/truck seats and carpet.

I set out today to clean the spilled coffee/grease/bodily fluid/condiment stains from the cloth seats of my '04 F-150. Looking at the task this morning, I figured it would be easier to throw a match at it or just order all new seat covers from Ford....they were that bad. My wife refused to drive or ride in the truck till I got rid of the witches brew of stains and putrid smell from the seats Seriously, they were that bad.

I went out this morning to try and rent a steam cleaner or something that might strip the mess away, but I came up empty handed. Maybe one of those big torches they use to burn away weeds would work, or an Army surplus flamethrower....hmmmm.

Really not being a pyro at heart, I picked up some spray crap in a can and figured I'd give it a try. It couldn't make it any worse and if it failed, my plan was to just turn the pressure washer on the seats and hope for the best. In my experience spray carpet/cloth cleaner is about the most useless cleaner on the face of the earth, until I found this stuff.

Turtle wax OXY Power Out, professional strength, uholstery cleaner is the shit. I got it from a Sears hardware in the Automotive section. I held out little hope for any decent results, but let me tell you, it made my clapped out seats look like brand new It took out 95% of all the water soluble stains and probably about 60% of the grease and oil stains. I spot treated the few areas of grease it couldn't handle with a bit of Spray-9 then re-did the spots with the upholstery cleaner and, like magic, all the stains were gone...the smell too. I just sprayed it on, scrubbed it a bunch, then vacuumed it away with the wet/dry vac. I've never seen a product work this well before and I recommend it to anyone who is thinking about cleaning thier car up. My truck is back to 95% of it's original condition on the day it rolled out of the showroom and it only cost $10 for two cans of the Turtle Wax. If you can't seem to keep your coffee in the cup and your car is paying the price, give this cleaner a try.


KLboxeR screwed with this post 10-13-2007 at 08:09 PM
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Old 10-29-2007, 06:28 PM   #123
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Chester County, PA
Oddometer: 3,651
Got a new one today:

If you have a phillips head screw that's clogged with dirt, rust or debris. pick out the big stuff then seat the screwdriver and tap the handle with a hammer while rocking it back and forth both ways. It seats the tip all the way in the head and mashes the dirt into a fine grit that helps the driver grip. My neighbor showed me this when I was trying to take the dirt encrusted door treads off a friends truck today. It worked great.

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Old 10-30-2007, 10:31 PM   #124
Joined: Oct 2005
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Find an old car tire and cut it up into squares to make general purpose pads for floor jacks, stands, kneeling cushions, vise jaw protectors, etc.
I use two on my HF mcy lift after the thin rubber on it got chewed up on the first use.
It'll hold up to anything, and you can make a stack of them with a single spare tire- The sidewall sections are good for a less durable but more flexible pad, with the tread area being thicker and flatter.
A reciprocating saw is the only thing I found that'll be able to cut through the rubber and steel belt combination efficiently, nothing else I've tried can do it- tried tin snips, utility knives, muffler cutters, etc, and they just won't work.
A smaller sized pad can be used for a sidestand base in loose dirt, drill a hole in a corner for a lanyard or some other attachment method.
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Old 10-31-2007, 07:41 AM   #125
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Houston, Texas USA
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Great shop trick

Color-code all of your metric sockets and wrenches, i.e. all 13mm orange, 12mm yellow, etc. You'll know at a glance what size you have in hand.
I'd rather be lookin' at it, than lookin' for it!
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Old 11-02-2007, 06:22 PM   #126
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Location: Moscow, Idaho
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13 mm is supposed to be red, as is 9/16.

I use 3M electrical tape to mark sockets and wrenches.
The gate guard glares at me. "It's after curfew." He looks me up and down, "What do you think you are, some kind of ****** tourist?" ..Phu Loi 1969
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Old 11-06-2007, 11:36 AM   #127
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Location: Minneola, Central Florida
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Originally Posted by otismyman
Color-code all of your metric sockets and wrenches, i.e. all 13mm orange, 12mm yellow, etc. You'll know at a glance what size you have in hand.

What I do instead is paint all of my SAE sockets and wrenches RED and all of my metric sockets and wrenches BLUE. A dab of model paint on the sockets and a stripe of color in the middle of the wrenches. I can open my tool box drawer and pick the right wrench easily.
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Old 11-06-2007, 12:41 PM   #128
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Flagstaff AZ
Oddometer: 420
Rounded off the head of a bolt? Give it a good spritz of penetrating oil then find a 12 pt. socket that'll only go on if persuaded with a few hammer blows. Add ratchet and twist. Works 9 times outa 10, really.

Easy-out pointer; I've had marginal luck using easy-outs to get out the remains of a busted off bolt. One thing to think about is, use the smallest easy-out that you think will get the job done. I used to go the other way and use the biggest but it's easier for the bigger drill bit to wander out into the threads, damaging them. Also, as you drive the tapered easy-out into the remaining section of bolt it's exerting outward force that's helping to lock the threads even tighter into the hole. My success rate improved by going smaller.
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Old 11-08-2007, 12:24 PM   #129
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Location: LV, NV
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Cheap powerful magnets

I often use magnets to keep track of small hardware bits when working on stuff. I found that the magnets used for the head positioning inside a hard drive are REALLY strong. If you have dead hard drives, you have the source. I also just enjoy taking stuff apart. I keep one stuck somewhere on the bike for 'field' work.
BTW, the disk platter itself makes an okay signal mirror.
Please don't tell Mom I'm a pilot. She thinks I play piano in a whorehouse.
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Old 11-09-2007, 12:15 PM   #130
Dave E.
Joined: Feb 2006
Location: Middletown, PA
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Paraffin wax

From my old air-cooled VW days - When you snap off a rusted-in bolt or threaded rod, heat the exposed bolt/rod with a small torch until it is red-hot. Remove torch and apply some paraffin wax to the exposed threads (look in grocery stores where canning supplies are sold). The wax should wick into the threads - keep applying wax until no more wicking occurs. Let bolt/rod cool. Bolt/rod should now be loose and able to be removed.
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Old 11-11-2007, 10:07 PM   #131
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After checking the price for WD40 in gallons vs. spray cans I knew I had to do something... So I started using 20 oz. soda bottles with a pin hole in the plastic screw top for cheapo squirt bottles. We also use them for cooling fluid at the drill press. There, we also fabbed up a galvanized drip pan with a return hose going to a catch bottle (the same 20 oz size) below that we can then reuse.

You can do the same thing with any parts cleaning junk like Super Clean, one of my favorites.

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Old 11-11-2007, 10:50 PM   #132
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Location: Atlanta, GA
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I use a cupcake pan to hold parts. 9 little cups to hold nuts and bolts.

My neighbor has a roll of brown butcher paper. He places it over his bench. If you are taking an engine apart you can draw notes and diagrams to help reassembly. When it is too dirty just take off and start clean.

Wear gloves to prevent absorbing oils and chemicals into your body.

Pieces of laundry detergent plastic bottles can come in handy. Protect wheels from scratching when changing tires. Make a tray to mix epoxy or JB weld.

I have a plastic 5 gallon gas can I pour my used oil into. I carry one container to the part store to recycle. Easier than carrying and dumping all the 1Qt bottles.

My father in law had 3 boxes in his garage: Electrical, Hardware, Plumbing add more if you need. All electrical things are in that Electrical box and so on. You need an electrical part it should be in the box rather than somewhere around the house.
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Old 11-13-2007, 09:24 AM   #133
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Location: Lake Stevens, WA
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I use a head lamp when working in the garage. Always ensure you have sufficient lighting while working.
5f? Is that like riding down a 90 degree cliff face into a lake of fire? I thought 4f was bad. Abdelhub

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Old 11-13-2007, 08:57 PM   #134
Dano 407
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Location: The orange groves, CA
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Originally Posted by thetourist
13 mm is supposed to be red, as is 9/16.

I use 3M electrical tape to mark sockets and wrenches.
Along the same line, I use yellow paint marker around 13/16 deep impact sockets, as they are the most common lug nut size for us.

Just a Battery for Hire with the Guitar Fire.....
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Old 11-13-2007, 10:22 PM   #135
Joined: Sep 2004
Oddometer: 14
Alcohol wipes

Go to the drugstore or medical supply store and get a box of the little individually packaged alcohol wipes. They are folded up paper about an inch square and are disposable. They are perfect for those little light cleaning jobs, both on the bike and your freshly busted knuckles.
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