Kirk's Panniers - ordering information and customer's builds thread

[kirkster70]

This is somewhat of a spin-off from the "Rookie...weldor..." thread in the garage forum. Since I am now making a couple dollars on the side with customer's builds, a vendor's thread is the next logical step.

I am a one man shop, and I build these bags one set at a time. I do have a full-time job, and this is quickly becoming my second full-time job. ;) I'm big on "bang-for-the-buck" (KLR owner here) and I'm also big on customer service. I try to do the best possible job I can on each and every build. The low end bags get the same attention paid to the welds as the high end bags. I also try to make incremental improvements as I go. I want you to have the nicest set I can make for a very good price. I also want you to be happy with your purchase from me for years to come. Thank you very much for looking at my thread! Please check back often as I will no doubt be offering different hardware and design options as I figure things out.



KP-1: $250 per pair in raw aluminum finish. * Powder coating is no longer being offered. Please see below. * Shipping to the 48 states via UPS ground insured - to be calculated per order.

18"L x 8"W x 15"H. Slightly larger/smaller sizes available at the same price.
Flat, lift-off lids.
Flat bottoms.
4) 1 1/2" stainless steel footman loops per lid.
Foam rubber weatherstripping gasket in lid. Simple, yet effective.
All seams TIG welded. Welds left exposed for maximum strength.
.080" thick (2mm) 5052 aluminum.
Small, rotary-type "butterfly" draw latches with padlock ears.

KP-1 Options : (per pair - not each)

Exhaust cut-out (to your specs) add $25.
Mesan "big-blue" adjustable draw latch upgrade add $25.




Insides of lids will look like this...





KP-2: $350 per pair in raw aluminum finish. * Powder coating is no longer being offered - please see below. * Shipping to the 48 states via UPS ground insured - to be calculated per order.


18"L x 9"W x 16"H. Slightly larger/smaller available at the same price.
Flat, lift-off lids.
2" outer bevel on lower pannier.
4) 1 1/2" stainless steel footman loops per lid.
Trim-Lok EPDM rubber gasket on lower pannier.
Mesan brand "big-blue" latches (as I call 'em). They are heavy-duty, galvanized, adjustable draw latches with padlock ears. (Shown in the pic below)
.080" (2mm) thick 5052 aluminum.
All seams TIG welded. Lower welds left exposed for strength. Lid corners smoothed with a grinder for looks.

KP-2 Options: (per pair - not each)

Boot cut out for extra passenger heel clearance add $25.
Exhaust cut-out (to your specs) add $25.
Forward - hinged lids (KP-2 style hinges will be aluminum piano hinges to match the pannier finish.) add $25.
Side - hinged lids (a longer hinge is needed compared to forward hinged). add $35.


Keyed - alike, galvanized steel, Protex over-center draw latch upgrade add $10 per latch.
Keyed - alike, black, powder coated steel, Protex latch upgrade add $15 per latch.
Keyed - alike, stainless steel, Protex latch upgrade (or stainless "tool" type) add $20 per latch.













KP-3: $550 per pair in raw aluminum finish. * Powder coating is no longer being offered - please see below. * Shipping to the 48 states via UPS ground insured - to be calculated per order.


20"L x 10"W x 18"H (including lid) Custom sizes available for the same price. (within reason)
4) 1 1/2" stainless steel footman loops per lid.
Hinged lids. Your choice of forward or side hinged. KP-3 style hinges will now be the more robust flat style hinge with M6 x 1.0 mounting studs as seen on the ST below. You have your choice of black or silver finish.
Beveled lids on all 4 sides.
Fully beveled bottom
Boot cut-out (or not) - your choice.
Exhaust cut-out (or not) - your choice.
Trim-Lok EPDM rubber gasket on lower pannier.
Your choice of Southco load-rated, keyed-alike draw latches or any style or finish Protex over-center, keyed-alike draw latches.
.080" (2mm) 5052 aluminum.
All seams TIG welded. Lower welds left exposed for maximum strength. Lids dressed with a grinder for aesthetics.












A comparison of available latch hardware shown below:



From left to right:

KP-1 style small rotary draw latch with padlock ear. Unknown origin.

KP-2 style Mesan "big blue" galvanized steel adjustable draw latch with spring safety and padlock ear. Turkey / Germany.

KP-3 style Protex, keyed, over-center draw latch. United Kingdom

KP-3 style Protex in black powder coat.

KP-3 style Protex in stainless steel with "tool" instead of key. (regular keyed version available in SS as well)

KP-3 style Southco, keyed draw latch in black finish. China.


^ All KP-3 latch options are available on KP-2 bags at additional cost.


I understand that this is a sizeable investment for most people and I want you to be able to custom tailor your luggage to your specific needs. Everyone has different wants and needs, so I try to build to suit as best as I possibly can. This will constantly change as I source new hardware and fine-tune my pannier building techniques.




Top box pricing:

KP-1 style - 1/2 of pannier pricing.
KP-2 style - 1/2 of pannier pricing.
KP-3 style - 1/2 of pannier pricing.

UPS ground insured to the 48 states - to be calculated per order.

^ this is close enough for now, but may be adjusted soon.


A note on powder coating:


*** EFFECTIVE IMMEDIATELY *** I am no longer offering powder coating until I have the funds in place to build my own oven and have total control over turn-around times and quality. The guy I was using has proven to be unreliable and that is a headache that I can do without. It will probably take me a year to gather the funds to make it happen. I apologize for any inconvenience this may cause to potential buyers.



A note on racks, mounts, and installs:

I am no longer offering racks, mounts or performing installs. I am solely building panniers to customer specs. It is entirely up to the customer to drill and install his or her panniers, top boxes, or whatever else I happen to fabricate for you. I am no longer turning wrenches on any customer's rides in an effort to prevent any potential liability issues for myself.

And quite honestly, rack builds take me all day and my pricing isn't competitive with what is currently available from many different vendors. For these reasons, I've decided to discontinue rack fabrication.


A note on raw aluminum finish:

There are superficial scratches and fingerprints on the aluminum sheet from material handling and the manufacturing process. I buy the sheet that way, and by time I'm finished, I add some of my own. Powder coating conceals all of this.

Please keep this in mind when ordering.

A note on design criteria:

I have been asked numerous times now to duplicate a set of bags made by "X" manufacturer. If you want a set just like the "X" manufacturer's bags, then you need to order from manufacturer "X". I am not here to duplicate known designs of known manufacturers for you to save a buck. I realize these are just boxes, and you can only build a box so many ways, but I refuse to duplicate known designs. That's very uncool on many levels. Thanks for your understanding.


Payment?

Cash, check, money order, PayPal, it matters not. All is good with me. Heck, I'll even barter for that old Japanese motorcycle or scooter hiding in the corner of your outbuilding.

Thank you very much for looking!

- Kirk

[kirkster70]

Recent customer builds. If you would like your bike removed from the photos, please let me know, and I will promptly do so.

Jim's 2005 R1200GS...














Kevin's DL650 V-Strom...






















David's 2012 F800GS...














Jeff's DR650 tool box and reinforced aftermarket skidplate...














J's 2005 R1200GS...























Mounts for a Ram ball/ GoPro...







Mounted with 3M emblem tape.




Rob's F800GS...
















My 2008 KLR650...









Storage compartment lids and slip-hinge lids not currently available. I still need to fine-tune a few things and add some tooling to make it all happen. This was just a prototype to see if I could make it work.









Bob's DL1000 V-Strom...







Mike's 2005 R1200ST...







Local #26 Brother Murray's DL1000...








Joel's 2013 R1200GS on factory racks...

[kirkster70]

Next build : Mike's 2005 R1200ST...

I start by disconnecting the negative lead. I isolate it w/a cable tie to make sure it doesn't ground on anything else while in mock-up.



Using 5/8" O.D. x .125" wall DOM tube, I use one of the passenger peg mounting points. I make it longer than needed on purpose. It will be trimmed to final size after full-weld up. This OEM bracket angles in, so there will be plenty of ankle clearance for the passenger.



Hoop size is determined by the bag size. I normally go 2 to 3" smaller each way to allow adjustability.



I normally match the hoop angle to the OEM top rack angle. This time I match the exhaust angle. The bags will still match the top rack angle once mounted to the racks by rotating them a few degrees.



I weld nuts to the end of some more 1/8" thick DOM, and use a through bolt and washer to attach to the OEM luggage mounting ears.



Both sides fully mocked up. Well, almost. Crossbar fab after dinner tonight.



It doesn't look like it, but there's 9 hours of work. It didn't feel like it though, because I truly enjoy making things. With any luck, more to see later tonight.

[kirkster70]

Crossbar mocked up...



Racks pull in as tight as I could make them while making sure the hinged pannier lids clear the bike. Building racks requires thinking 3 or 4 steps ahead, but it does get slightly easier with each build.



After disassembly and full weld up, I'm hoping to start pannier fab later today.

[Prior]

I've got a buddy that just bought a WeeStrom and is wanting some racks... Are you building boxes too?

Your work looks nice!

[Hotmamaandme]

Any way you can get a hold of a 1989 or 90 Honda Transalp and make some pannier racks? (finding racks for these old bikes is hard to say the least) Very nice work BTW and good luck on your venture.

[Penguin74Q]

Nice work!

[Timmer]

Subscribed!


Tim in Burien, WA

[Unstable Rider]

Plans to offer a top box and panniers then?

$ = ?

[kirkster70]

Originally Posted by Prior

I've got a buddy that just bought a WeeStrom and is wanting some racks... Are you building boxes too?

Your work looks nice!

Yessir! Thanks!

[kirkster70]

Originally Posted by Hotmamaandme

Any way you can get a hold of a 1989 or 90 Honda Transalp and make some pannier racks? (finding racks for these old bikes is hard to say the least) Very nice work BTW and good luck on your venture.

Thanks!

Well, I'm only doing one-off racks for locals. I don't see myself making jigs for all the different bikes at this time. Then, there are 2nd, 3rd, 4th gens, etc,etc...

I would have at least 50 jigs to make. In time I may start with the 2nd gen KLR650, and then move into the GS line, but that's still a ways off...

[kirkster70]

Originally Posted by Penguin74Q

Nice work!

Thanks!

[kirkster70]

Originally Posted by Timmer

Subscribed!


Tim in Burien, WA

Hiya, Tim!

Looks like you've added a few toys to the stable since I last talked to you. Nice!

[kirkster70]

Originally Posted by Unstable Rider

Plans to offer a top box and panniers then?

$ = ?

Yep!


Let me wrap this current job up, and I'll update the very first post on page one.

I've been having a bit of a time putting my prices together because I don't think I have built the same set of bags yet.

Give me about a week, and I should have post one up and running with all the details.

[kirkster70]

ST coming right along...

I bend the shells to 20"L x 10"W x 16"H. The lid will be beveled, and will be an additional 2". These are the same dimensions used on JVBs and J's '05 GSes.

Maybe it's my imagination, but the passenger peg to rear signal relationship seemed larger on the GS than on the ST. I could be wrong. The 20" bags go well on the GSes, so that's why I went with those numbers. It seems a bit cramped on the ST, so I decide to make a heel cut out.



I cut 3" out of the bottom and connect to the sharpie mark, which ends up being 7". I don't want to cut out too much, because I want some fore/aft adjustability.

Instead of guessing and screwing up here...



I flip the bag over and scale over to the intersecting point. Now I know it's a straight line.



Awesome! That'll work!





Now that I know it will work, there's still enough "meat" left in the backside to do my usual 2" rear bevel and still have fore/aft room.



Playing around with the angle. The exhaust side will dictate this side, though.







Left side trimmed up to match. The beauty of the low pipe means a full 10" width top to bottom! You can crawl in there and take a nap.





Lunch break is almost over. Time to shear and bend the ends. Then comes some more hood time with the TIG. My favorite!

Get back to work, slacker!