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Old 09-04-2007, 12:11 AM   #46
dakarboy OP
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so, its one oclock in the morning and i am comfortably wired from the three cups of coffee that it took to keep me awake from pa to orange nj so i will write whats left of what i have completed.

with the shims on ther way i finished what i could. it should be noted that none of the local shops to me stocked these shims but max had them on their shelf. i wish max would take over the bmw of manhattan operation. a mc shop should be run by mc people, not car people. just putting it out there.

i decide to wrap up most of the oil service by buttoning up the motor. first the drain plug, all cleaned and with a new crush washer. never use the old one. my thread, no arguing!

then clean the oring seating surface of any residual oil or grit;

then use dirty engine to coat the rubber gasket side of the new oil filter. we use dirty oil because it has burned off most of the detergents in new oil. those detergents create a seal between the rubber and alum and make the filter a bitch to get off. more critical on spin on filters.

then you install the new oring on the oil filter cover and use dirty oil on that as well;

then you install the cover and torque it down! please use he-man torque specs. i charge 50 bucks to repair stripped threads. 72" lbs, i have not stripped out a hole yet.

then install the sprocket cover and then the shock remote reservoir. abs dakars only. btw, there is a stopper that the reservoit sits on to ensure it is properly positioned. what could happen if you dont put it back there? i was told that it would put undue stress on the rubber nitro line. that could cause the world to stop spinning and plummit the universe into chaos. so here is that stopper;

dont say i did not warn you!


alright, since the oil bag is removed we will fill it up later. you should make a not for yourself and tap it to the ignition key or speedo face or somewhere that it will not go un-noticed that there is no oil in the engine.

for the last part of this post i want to ramble on a bit about it. this is the lubrication of all pivot points. what sucks about this is that it is time consuming and unless the points were really dry and gritty or frozen, the customer will not likely notice. the next tech who works on that part of the bike will, he will be impressed. the customer will not notice. now, if you just recieved your bike from a shop and all the pivot points are over sprayed with white stuff then congradulations, you were probably just taken for a ride and the lubrication of all your pivot points was done with a spray can and nothing was disassembled cleaned and lubricated. not to toot my own horn, but this a thread on how it is done correctly so let me show you;

first the rear brake pivot point. take off the foot peg mount removing the following three bolts;

sorry, i only took a picture of the top mounting bolt. the other two are on the bottom facing the deck.
then remove the rear mc pushrod retaing clip buy pushing the holder towards the front of the bike (if its installed right, more on that later) and pulling it free. then the push rod should pull free easily from the mc boot. then unbolt the pedal by removing this bolt and pull the pedal and its return spring off;

your parts inventory should like this and contain the following: foot rest mount plus three bolts (not in picture) pedal, pedal pivot bolt, pivot busing, pivot washer, return spring, pushrod and push rod retaining clip.

now clean them off untill they sparkle, lubricate them with axle grease and the threads of the pivot bolt with antisieze and your shit should look like this;

now assemble the same way you took it apart. you were paying attention right? the washer goes between the bushing and the frame. the spring orientation should be self explanatory. just look at the wear marks on the frame and pedal. also important, making sure the brake switch is positioned correctly;

now antisieze the peg mounting bolts and install that and your done with the rear brake pedal.

now for the front brake lever. this is the easy one. remove the nut on the bottom of the pivot pin then unscrew the pin with a flat head while pusing up from the bottom. you should be holding this ;

i havent seen anything this dry since my first wife!
clean it and lubricate it. do not forget the perch!

reassemble and thats that . you may be tempted to leave any excess residue as proof that you were there. do not. it will be a dirt magnate and will look like total shit in two days. also, if the customer does not see it, he will the first time he runs his nice detail towel over it.

next is the clutch lever pivot. for all intensive purposes, this is also a how to on changing your clutch. first off, spin your cable adjuster all the way in. what is wrong with this picture? how are you supposed to make an adjustment on the fly if you need a wrench to adjust it? hand tight only!

then using a monkey wrench, rotate the clutch arm counter clock wise to free up the nipple then release the arm;



then line up the slots on the knurled adjuster knob and the adjuster itself and pull the cable free;

next remove the pivot bolt with the nut and remove the clutch lever;

this picture really captures how dry this is. this guy would be scratching his head when his clutch cable snaps when he has had all the services. kids crying. be right back.
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"IN THE ABSENCE OF REAL TORQUE VALUES, HE-MAN TORQUE SPECS WILL PREVAIL"me
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Old 09-04-2007, 12:27 AM   #47
dakarboy OP
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the kid is happily doing what babies do when they are hungry!

so, clean and lubricate both cable ends, the clutch lever, and pivot bolt;


now reassemble in reverse order. when adjusting the cable, bmw says 1 to 2 mm's. i like more but on some bikes this will cause hard shifting. you know your bike, set it where it likes it. sometimes you can run out of adjustment. it is usually that you cannot give it enough free play, the adjuster is screwed all the way in or it is all the way in with just barely the right amount of free play. this means the arm is on wrong and needs to come off and over a tooth. there is more to report but i am tired.

oh yeah, rob wanted me to check out this switch to see if there was anything noticable about it. nothing to report! going to sleep. sorry about the grammar. sue me.
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Old 09-04-2007, 08:14 AM   #48
dakarboy OP
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i was just getting ready to head out the garage to finish R's bike and i thought i would look at what it is that i wrote at 2 am in the morn.

i just want to apologize for all the mis-spelled words and bad grammer. and when we were lubricating the clutch pivot points i was basically saying that if you needed to change the clutch cable, not the clutch itself, that is how you would do it.

and as for my first wife, she was a sweet kind inocent person and i apologize to her as well........
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"IN THE ABSENCE OF REAL TORQUE VALUES, HE-MAN TORQUE SPECS WILL PREVAIL"me
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Old 09-04-2007, 08:19 AM   #49
Colorado Uli
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greer
Colorado Uli,

You have a single-spark bike with shim over bucket. It'll be easier, at least that's what I keep telling myself, haven't had to adjust anything yet. And we can use KLR shims, supposed to be cheaper,too. If you decide to use BMW shims it pays to shop around a little, evidently the price of shims varies a great deal shop to shop; seems like somebody said Irv Seaver had extra-good prices. Look here for how-to:
http://faq.f650.com/GSFAQs/Valve_Shim_Change_FAQ_GS.htm

Sarah
Thanks for the good news. I guess I'll dig ito it this coming weekend (still waiting for Ohlins to send my shock back to me after I managed to trash it in the mountains, so I've got down time anyhow).

Uli
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Old 09-04-2007, 11:40 AM   #50
dakarboy OP
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the shim over bucket can be easier because if it is the right side valves that need adjusted, you can depress the bucket and snake the shim out with a magnet. if its the inside ones, its not as easy, you may have to still pull the cams or at least loosen the carrier enough to get the shim around the cam. i dont like prying on anything in that area so i just pull em.
good luck!
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"IN THE ABSENCE OF REAL TORQUE VALUES, HE-MAN TORQUE SPECS WILL PREVAIL"me
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Old 09-06-2007, 08:08 AM   #51
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the end is near...

all right lets wrap this thing up.


to finish the chasis lube we need to push some grease through this tiny hole on the sidestand mount. if you have a non dakar then you will need to do the same for the centerstand. there is an adapter that is sold through most places that sell grease guns that allow this to work. sometimes they can get plugged. just use brake cleaner or wd40 to clear it then follow it up with the grease. clean up the excess and your done. i also put a wrench on it to ensure it is not coming loose.

then you have to remove the right combination switch like so. remove the top screw;

the bottom screw;

to reveal the throttle gear. **warning** if you have heated grips and start twisting on the throttle you may sever the wires to that grip, so refrain;

disconnect it from the cable and clean it, the pipe and the cable end. i squirt some type of lubricant into the pipe end. white lith will work. then i use gear lube on the gears. now it was very hard to capture it in photo but reinstall the gear so that when you rotate the throttle the arrow on the gear and the arrow on the throttle pipe line up. do you see it?

to check the alignment you will have to hold the white gear in place by hand to keep it from jumping. just make sure the arrows line up when the throttle is rotated and that you have the same amount of freeplay as when you started. now reassemble.

there are chassis lubes on this bike that bmw, in their infinite wisdom, decided not to include. these would be the swingarm, and linkages for the rear suspension. if your bike spends alot of time in water you should pull them apart, clean and lubricate. otherwise be prepared to pay. mine needed all new bearings everywhere. and of course bmw did not have them. real dirt bikes come with grease fittings. so thats it. i do not think i left anything out on the chasis lube. can anybody think of anything? let me know. lets finish the valves.
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"IN THE ABSENCE OF REAL TORQUE VALUES, HE-MAN TORQUE SPECS WILL PREVAIL"me
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Old 09-06-2007, 09:11 AM   #52
dakarboy OP
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finishing the valve train

so this is what came in the mail from max's.

lets do the exhaust first. we decided that we needed a 2.70 to tighten the clearance on the right side valve. just because they say 2.70 on them does not mean thats what they are. mic them. find the closest one and use it. this is what we had for 2.70;


not much of a differance i know but a differance all the same. we are going with the 2.70 shim. now clean everything. use a lint free rag to clean the bucket, the valve top, the shim and while your at it, clean the cams, carrier, mounting surface and valve cover surface. clean every time you do an evolution here. one piece of grit or dirt in the wrong place can make your life hell. when assembling these components do not assemble dry! i use this;

it is tacky and hangs around for awhile. i do not trust engine oil. what if you put it together and then are unable to start it for awhile? engine oil may run off and leave the component unprotected.


i use one drop of assembly lube in the shim recess as insurance that it does not move around and put the shim we selected in it like this;

now put the clean bucket over it. gently rotate while applying gentle downward pressure. sometimes they like to fight you. just dont force it.

now lets mic the shims for the intake and put that in place;


not much of a differance here. but we want increase the clearance as much as possible so we will use the smaller one.


same same, use the lube;

now this is something i should have pointed out when you pulled the carrier but you need to ensure that these two dowel pins are present. if they are not in the head check the bottom of the bottom carrier. if one is missing start looking. they usually stay with the head.

now coat the cam journal areas with the lube and place on the dowel pins. you may need to rock it gently to get them to sit on the dowels;

now install the cams exhaust first. referance your marks and make sure that the lobes point out. the intake is the harder one to complete but it is still very easy. once you think you have them correct reach around to the cam chain tensioner and push the push rod all the way in and double check the timing marks while you do so. mine were off requiring me to move the intake two teeth. after that;

now do not for get to put a drop or two the cam journals and lobes;

now use the lube on the upper carrier cam journal areas and place it over the installed cams. then thread all the carrier mounting bolts by hand. be sure to use clean engine oil on the threads of said bolts. be careful with the metal washers. then do an intial torque of this;

make sure that you are tightening the bolts using a inside out cross pattern. the torque to this;

now use a new crush washer on the cam chain tensioner bolt and install it;

now i feel this is the most important part. rotate the motor over by hand. first slowly one revolution. then just spin it till you have rotated the motor at least 10 revolutions. end it by placing the motor back on tdc;


this makes sure that everything is seated and compressed as it is going to be. lets take a look at are results.



i was hoping for a perfect 30 instead i got a loose 25 tight 30. close enough and within parameters!

now for the intake;


again i was hoping for a perfect 10 here but it was loose and the 15 was tight so it is close enough. so picking the right shims made a differance. and now these valves are good to go. for at least another 12k.

lets finish this. put the upper cam chain guide back on;

then the valve cover. dont for get about the two special bolts for the ignition coil mount. use oil on the threads and torque them to spec.


be right back.
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"IN THE ABSENCE OF REAL TORQUE VALUES, HE-MAN TORQUE SPECS WILL PREVAIL"me

dakarboy screwed with this post 09-06-2007 at 09:22 AM
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Old 09-06-2007, 09:55 AM   #53
dakarboy OP
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reassembly

the oil pipe, new crush washers;

the mounting bolt for the pipe. i use a magnet to start it;

then airbox mount;

then the sparkies. dont for get to antisieze them bad boys! i will by a beer for the guy who can tell me whats wrong with the second picture.


then use a little dielectric grease for the coil connectors and install the coils and coil mount. no pic, sorry.

now install the heat shield, do not forget to route the cable;

connect the throttle cable to the cam and observe that the throttle opens all the way;

then the battery tray/airbox holder. then the electrical box cover and your scoot should look like this;

when installing the battery tray do not forget to instll the battery overflow tube in its clip;

then install the airbox, air filter and horn. do not forget to install the airtemp sensor and to put the horn end in its place;
all right, smugmug just froze on me. will try later.
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Old 09-06-2007, 10:46 AM   #54
dakarboy OP
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then install the airbox, air filter and horn. do not forget to install the airtemp sensor and to put the horn end in its place;



then reinstall the oil bag and fill it with oil. R likes the good stuff! ;

then install the overflow tank, do not forget the grommit that it lives in. then fill it up with coolant. for some reason i did not take any pics of that evolution. it is pretty easy. just after you fill it you need to burp it. my bike came with a bleeder valve. the newer ones do not. just fill it. start it and let it run for a minute or two. then top it off. then seal it up and run it to the fan comes on. shut it off and let cool. top off one more time. then fill the overflow bag.

lube the chain;

check the tire pressures;



now before i put all the plastic back on i wanted to check the fault codes. i bought the GS911 and just recently installed it. i didnt get to play with it as much as i would like but from what i have done with it so far i am very impressed. plus, stephan, from GS911, mentioned that you will soon be able to do much more with this unit. the installation was straight forward and idiot proof. i am afraid of technology and it seems the installation instructions online were wrote for me. i am excited. so lets check it out.

after installing and verifying the link you will have an icon on your desk top like this;

now we are ready to play. remove your 911 tool and plug it into your computer, (works with cell phones as well) and follow the prompts;

you will select diagnostic wizard and it will ask you this;

it covers quite a variety of beemers right? we will select "f" series and it will ask;

it says alot that it wants to know whether its a single or twin spark. so we pick twin spark and it asks us if we want to check abs or just engine management. we select engine and it tells us;

then we go back and select absn and it tells us;

so, there were no codes. if there were we could erase them. this system was quick and easy and bikes with more then one control unit it allows you to check them individually. have used the diagnostic tool at bmw stores i can tell you that this is not as good. but if they increase some of the things it can do, like maybe running parameters and the such it could become quite the tool. as it is. anyone traveling very far should have one. it takes you from being the ignorant sod next to his non running bike to the guy calling MAX's or BEEMERBONEYARD and asking for hall sensor or whatever. now your fate is a little more in your hands! gotta customer. will finish what little i have later.
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"IN THE ABSENCE OF REAL TORQUE VALUES, HE-MAN TORQUE SPECS WILL PREVAIL"me
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Old 09-06-2007, 01:27 PM   #55
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i would like to add some more about the GS911. there are some codes that may be present for no discernable reason that as a tech we dont get to concerned about. low battery voltage is one. especially if we found a loose battery terminal or like say if it was a city bike where lots of stops and starts or multiple abs usage may start to drag the battery down. now if we had a low battery voltage that occured lets say over 100 times, that would concern us, or you. where gt1 is a far superior diagnostic tool is the things it can do. like watching temp sensors in action or observing the fi signal or watching the o2 sensor in action. hopefully, GS911 will gain some of those features. but, again, it is the only thing out there as far as being able to at least try to get yourself back on the road in the middle of no where. everyone with a beemer should have one of these, it would be the best $150 they ever spent. and not being forced to go to the dealer everytime your scooter flashed a code on your dash has got make it worthwhile!
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"IN THE ABSENCE OF REAL TORQUE VALUES, HE-MAN TORQUE SPECS WILL PREVAIL"me
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Old 09-06-2007, 01:38 PM   #56
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done. (almost)

allright, this should be it. so you will not have to listen to anymore of my endless rantings.

we have the bike all put together. everything is filled and the codes have been read. the only thing left is the last test ride.

this was the milage going out for the ride;

and done. the fan came off and on. the weave present before is now gone. the bike starts up and idles, no oil leaks. the only thing missing on this service is the wash. we finished up late so we were unable to wash it. but i gave him an IOU! good at any local bmw dealer i am sure...

why is this man smiling? is it because of the comprehensive and documented service he just recieved? no, i met poopsie, she is smoking!

well, i hope this has not been too painful. let me know what you think.
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"IN THE ABSENCE OF REAL TORQUE VALUES, HE-MAN TORQUE SPECS WILL PREVAIL"me
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Old 09-06-2007, 02:54 PM   #57
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Thanks Dakarboy

That was awesome. I am saving this thread to my computer for future reference!
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Old 09-06-2007, 07:02 PM   #58
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Great post. Thanks for doing it start to finish.
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Old 09-06-2007, 08:32 PM   #59
dakarboy OP
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what did you all think of the GS911?
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"IN THE ABSENCE OF REAL TORQUE VALUES, HE-MAN TORQUE SPECS WILL PREVAIL"me
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Old 09-06-2007, 10:10 PM   #60
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I do most of my own maintenance but I'm not all that savvy on diagnostics. What are some of the benefits of the GS-11 for the F650GS.

What are some of the things it could help detect so that you can address an issue before it happens?

Could it detect a bad killswitch?
Could it detect that the fan is on it's way to being fried?

It would be cool if it could engage the ABS when replacing the brake fluid.
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