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Old 12-17-2012, 10:47 PM   #1441
markjenn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesusgatos View Post
Instead of carrying a clutch cable for any specific bike, I carry a long bicycle cable and by using some quicksteelto create a cable-end...
Like to hear more about this. I've broken a couple clutch cables over the years and have managed to ride the bike clutchless to someplace to get it fixed - no fun in traffic. I try and carry a spare clutch cable now. I don't go so far as I see some though where they carry the spare double-routed alongside the original.

I've heard of using hose clamps to attach the cable to the lever, but how can you make a cable end out of steel putty?

- Mark
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:05 PM   #1442
jesusgatos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by team ftb View Post
JesusGatos - I'll be needing the bar end handguard bits at least and most likely a Scotts mount.
Cool. Send me a PM to let me know what you need and I'll set those parts aside for you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mpatch View Post
One that I had never thought of was some bars leaks.
Handy if you have a leak in the fins or somewhere you can't use epoxy to seal it up. Weighs nothing and takes up hardly any space, especially if you only carry a little bit. I cut down the tube that it comes in (the silver one) and then tape different tubes together to make them easier to carry.



Quote:
Originally Posted by markjenn View Post
Like to hear more about this. I've broken a couple clutch cables over the years and have managed to ride the bike clutchless to someplace to get it fixed - no fun in traffic. I try and carry a spare clutch cable now. I don't go so far as I see some though where they carry the spare double-routed alongside the original.

I've heard of using hose clamps to attach the cable to the lever, but how can you make a cable end out of steel putty?

- Mark
I carry a universal brake cable that has a mountain bike end and a road bike end. That way you can just cut off whatever end you don't need, which might change depending on what kind of cable you're trying to replace (clutch, throttle, etc.). Those cables are usually long enough to get two cables out of one length, so if you're on a long trip, cut it to the length you actually need. Anyway, after you cut off the end that you don't need - run it through the housing, then cut it to the finished length and put a small 180-degree bend/kink/knot/whatever in it. Just want to give the quicksteel something to bite. Roll-up a little ball of quicksteel and mold it around the cable to create a new cable-end.That's all. Stupid-simple.
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Old 12-18-2012, 07:38 AM   #1443
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Can someone please expound on tubeless tire repair in the field? Is there another thread on this perhaps?

Plug kit, fix-a-flat, what? Hand pump, CO2, ???

In my case, if it matters, this isn't 3rd world outback but more like 50 miles from cell range in the US (for now).
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Old 12-18-2012, 07:51 AM   #1444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reenmachine View Post
Can someone please expound on tubeless tire repair in the field? Is there another thread on this perhaps?

Plug kit, fix-a-flat, what? Hand pump, CO2, ???

In my case, if it matters, this isn't 3rd world outback but more like 50 miles from cell range in the US (for now).
I usually pack along a wee air compressor that runs off of my battery
Slime "Tire Top Off" for $15 dollars CDN at Wally Mart
Slime Sticky String repair kit (they work on steel belted tires that will shear mushroom plugs)
Tire Pressure gauge.

That should do punctures just fine for a tubeless tire.

Have a look at the aerostitch gear or the BMW kits if you have the money to spend.

For CO2 you will need about 5 cartridges for a tubeless tire, the hybrid pump/cartridge style would seem to be a good route. For my DR I carry a few CO2 cartridges and a wee bicycle pump along with a spare front tube, patch kit and two 9 inch irons.

You could consider internal patches for the tubeless tire, but that would mean you would need to add a trailside jack, possibly a bead breaker, and the longer 16" tire irons (3 work best). That's assuming that you would want to remove the rim, break the bead, spoon off the tire, repair the tire, wait for the glue to set up on the internal patch, then spoon it back on and inflate. I figure you'd need some sort of lubricant like wd-40, or tried and true soap and water to get it back onto the rim. Swap out the valve stem caps with the aluminum type that have a valve core removal tool built onto it if you plan on going this route.

Google search "Stop n Go" for some put together kits. If you just worry about punctures, you can save a ton of weight and keep your kit down to the minimum for North American touring.
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Old 12-18-2012, 10:22 AM   #1445
jon_l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by team ftb View Post

I keep meaning to pack a small (4"-6") hacksaw blade but have not come up with method off carrying it that won't eat into my spares kit.
Duct tape the saw blade to inside of a plastic side-cover or other relatively flat surface.
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Old 12-18-2012, 10:27 AM   #1446
MasterMarine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
Duct tape the saw blade to inside of a plastic side-cover or other relatively flat surface.
Or you could tape it to one of your tire irons.
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Old 12-18-2012, 10:42 AM   #1447
jesusgatos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterMarine View Post
Or you could tape it to one of your tire irons.
Cut it to whatever length you want to carry and then use it to slit your wrists if you can't find somewhere to put it.
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:46 PM   #1448
beechum1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoneStar View Post
Tommu thx - can't seem to find the heads for it tho - saw this on there as well - anyone used one of these for any length of time?

Says it fits 8-25mm and eliminates the normal slop of an adjustable - about $35.

http://www.baronscustom.com/catalog/...215/index.html







I just bought one of these tonight. Going to test it out before I pack it. Hopefully it will work though. I'd really like to save a few oz rather than quick drinking beer!!
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Old 12-18-2012, 10:52 PM   #1449
reenmachine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rotten Ronnie View Post
I usually pack along a wee air compressor that runs off of my battery
Slime "Tire Top Off" for $15 dollars CDN at Wally Mart
Slime Sticky String repair kit (they work on steel belted tires that will shear mushroom plugs)
Tire Pressure gauge.

That should do punctures just fine for a tubeless tire.

Have a look at the aerostitch gear or the BMW kits if you have the money to spend.

For CO2 you will need about 5 cartridges for a tubeless tire, the hybrid pump/cartridge style would seem to be a good route. For my DR I carry a few CO2 cartridges and a wee bicycle pump along with a spare front tube, patch kit and two 9 inch irons.

You could consider internal patches for the tubeless tire, but that would mean you would need to add a trailside jack, possibly a bead breaker, and the longer 16" tire irons (3 work best). That's assuming that you would want to remove the rim, break the bead, spoon off the tire, repair the tire, wait for the glue to set up on the internal patch, then spoon it back on and inflate. I figure you'd need some sort of lubricant like wd-40, or tried and true soap and water to get it back onto the rim. Swap out the valve stem caps with the aluminum type that have a valve core removal tool built onto it if you plan on going this route.

Google search "Stop n Go" for some put together kits. If you just worry about punctures, you can save a ton of weight and keep your kit down to the minimum for North American touring.
Thanks for the advice! I ordered a Stop-n-go motorcycle tubeless patch kit and a Slime mini compressor from amazon and they'll be here Friday. I already own a small manual hand pump for my mountain bikes and I'll probably throw it in there for good measure.
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Old 12-19-2012, 03:31 AM   #1450
team ftb
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Since inside my airbox lid is already occupied with spare levers taping the hacksaw blade to a tire iron wins out. Thanks for shining a light to the obvious.
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Old 12-19-2012, 06:37 AM   #1451
LoneStar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beechum1 View Post
I just bought one of these tonight. Going to test it out before I pack it. Hopefully it will work though. I'd really like to save a few oz rather than quick drinking beer!!
Anxious to hear your thoughts on it

Tempted to add one to my "collection"
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Old 12-19-2012, 08:28 AM   #1452
JAB
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Saw blades

I'm sure it's a matter of preference, but I carry a "Sawzall" type blade rather than a regular hack saw blade. A bit more compact and more stiff. YMMV.
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Old 12-19-2012, 08:38 AM   #1453
Peirre O`Bollox
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rotten Ronnie View Post
For CO2 you will need about 5 cartridges for a tubeless tire
I would suggest using the 45g CO2 cartridges and monster air chuck from genuine innovations http://www.genuineinnovations.com/mo...air-chuck.html as 1 x 45g cartridge should be enough to inflate 1 tyre to a working pressure without having to switch between the smaller 16g carts


Quote:
Originally Posted by beechum1 View Post
I just bought one of these tonight. Going to test it out before I pack it. Hopefully it will work though. I'd really like to save a few oz rather than quick drinking beer!!
I know its an old school technique but ...........Why not use an existing oversize open end spanner from your tool kit, that fits the majority of bolt heads, and a few pennies or washers to pack out the jaws to fit the slightly smaller bolt heads
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Peirre O`Bollox screwed with this post 12-19-2012 at 08:50 AM
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Old 12-19-2012, 08:46 AM   #1454
beechum1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peirre O`Bollox View Post
I know its an old school technique but ...........Why not use an existing oversize open end spanner from your tool kit, that fits the majority of bolt heads, and a few pennies or washers to pack out the jaws to fit the slightly smaller bolt heads
I don't understand. seems like you'd have me set the pennies or washers for each 1/6th or 1/3rd turn of the fastener?
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Originally Posted by flyingdutchman177 View Post
I used to say "one day" a lot. But then I got scared I would wait one day too long. So I am doing it all now
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Old 12-19-2012, 08:56 AM   #1455
Peirre O`Bollox
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The technique only really works on bolts that are readily accessable with an open end spanner, so your only likely to have to set the pennies or washers for each 1/6th or 1/3rd turn of the fastener while initially cracking off the tension, after that its highly likely you`d be able spin the bolt/nut off by hand anyway. it would be easier for you to try it, than for me to explain it
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