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Old 01-10-2013, 12:03 PM   #1456
markjenn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoneStar View Post
I just received mine today and made sure it worked but haven't swapped batteries yet.
If you have the same trouble, I think it is solved by pulling out the battery contact strip in the corner of the battery compartment (the one that connects the two batteries in series) and putting a blob of solder on the contact point of the bottom-most battery's + terminal. (I also used a needle-nose plier to pull the contact spring of the other battery's + terminal, but this didn't solve the problem - I think the bottom battery was probably the only one that wasn't making contact. There are some plastic bits in the compartment that could also be ground down to let the battery slide further and make contact - perhaps these could be dremeled away a bit.)

Here's the battery variance culprit, chinese battery on left, Duracell on right:



- Mark

markjenn screwed with this post 01-10-2013 at 12:18 PM
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:05 PM   #1457
hilslamer OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markjenn View Post
In my experience, the key thing you tend to be doing with roadside electrical repairs is checking for voltage, not continuity.

...

- Mark
I agree wholeheartedly.



Quote:
Originally Posted by markjenn View Post

I'm going to take a flyer on one of these for a toolkit multimeter. $9.50 shipped (from China) on Ebay:

I like that it uses AAA batteries rather than watch batteries. That was my biggest gripe with the RS one.

- Mark

The RadioShack one I think I listed long ago takes some oddball 12v, N-size battery that it only available at RS or for some obscure shock collar for a dog...coincidence? In any case, anything with better battery options and delivered to your door for literally pennies is a great deal for a toolkit, IMO...
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:20 PM   #1458
Timmer
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Instead of $9.50, why not wander into your local HF and spend half that (sometimes even cheaper) and get a small multi-tester like this (http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-98025.html). I've got one on each of my bikes. Yes, I agree that testing for voltage is the most common useage.
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:13 AM   #1459
markjenn
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Originally Posted by Timmer View Post
Instead of $9.50, why not wander into your local HF and spend half that (sometimes even cheaper) and get a small multi-tester like this (http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-98025.html).
I agree, a great deal and from what I've read, they hold up better than you might expect. (Don't, of course, expect Fluke quality.) The only problem I have with this HF unit is that the leads are not self-contained so the can be separated/lost/tangled up with other gear.... and the unit is not enclosed/protected when not in use. But at $5, these are hardly deal breakers. OTOH, the one I posted earlier was only $10 shipped to my door and these features were worth $5 to me. I also prefer the AAA batteries over 9V.

- Mark
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Old 01-17-2013, 01:07 AM   #1460
PeterW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markjenn View Post
As followup, I just got mine and while it is definitely a cheap/POS DMM, it works fairly well, is relatively small, and is very nicely protected with the cover on. So a good candidate for a bike toolkit DMM.

One gotcha. It ships with some cheap chinese AAA batteries which have a slightly shorter body and longer terminals, probably because this makes them $0.0001 cheaper to make since this reduces the size of the battery very slightly. As I usually do, I replaced them immediately with higher-quality batteries (Duracell) and the DMM wouldn't turn on. I finally traced it down to this slight variance in battery dimensions causing one of the batteries not to be able to spring-load up against a contact. A blob of solder on the contact to make it sit slightly more proud solved the problem.

- Mark
I spent a few minutes filling the back of mine with hot melt glue as well - which makes these things near indestructible and a lot less prone to moisture problems.

Yes, cheap POS, but it's still a lot more accurate than a light on/off tester and as you point out, with the cover closed, tough enough to survive on the bike. And the cheap meter you have when you need it is a lot better than the expensive one left at home.

Pete
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Old 01-17-2013, 03:38 AM   #1461
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I have this one. Quality seems to be decent, and it's small. I like that you can't close the cover unless it's OFF. Nice feature. $20

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UCSG2/..._M3T1_ST1_dp_2

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Old 02-20-2013, 08:53 PM   #1462
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A while ago I posted about swapping out some tools and had been thinking that I should probably just buy an 8mm 1/4" socket bit. But I haven't - and I had to take the topend apart to replace the rings on my 450 - and I do all of my maintenance with these tools - and I just couldn't put enough torque on that stubby little 8mm wrench. So I popped an 8mm socket on the end of it and whammo! Now I'm thinking that instead of buying a dedicated 8mm socket bit, I'm just going to cut off an inch long piece of an 8mm allen wrench and carry that. Way smaller/lighter than carrying a whole allen wrench, and even a little bit lighter than carrying a dedicated 1/4" 8mm bit.





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Old 02-21-2013, 04:02 AM   #1463
tommu56
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Isn't that what the hole in the end of an adjustable wrench is for?
A larger box wrench will do the same thing.
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Old 02-21-2013, 08:00 AM   #1464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommu56 View Post
Isn't that what the hole in the end of an adjustable wrench is for?
A larger box wrench will do the same thing.
I don't carry tools that big. I'd imagine the intention of his post was similar.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:30 PM   #1465
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beechum1 View Post
I don't carry tools that big. I'd imagine the intention of his post was similar.

+1

Remember that scene in the movie Apollo 13 where the scientists on the ground threw a bunch of stuff on a table and said this is the stuff they have up there they might be able to use to fix The Problem?

Sometimes you have all you need right there to fix the problem. You just need to be creative.
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Old 02-21-2013, 02:43 PM   #1466
clintnz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesusgatos View Post
Now I'm thinking that instead of buying a dedicated 8mm socket bit, I'm just going to cut off an inch long piece of an 8mm allen wrench and carry that. Way smaller/lighter than carrying a whole allen wrench, and even a little bit lighter than carrying a dedicated 1/4" 8mm bit.
I've busted the side out of a good quality 3/8 8mm socket doing just that. Unless the 8mm hex cap screws you plan to use it on are torqued very lightly it might be a bit much pain for a 1/4 drive.

The 8mm hex M10 capscrews on my bike all need more torque than I'd put through a 1/4 drive. I just use a shortish allen key with my lil vice grips on the end for extra leverage.

Cheers
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Old 02-22-2013, 09:35 AM   #1467
jesusgatos
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Box-ends wrenches work alright in a pinch, but this setup is nicer to handle. Puts a side-load on the 8mm socket that it wasn't designed to take, and dunno it that might be a problem. Guess we'll see. The 8mm box-end wrench I carry is puny, otherwise I'd use that instead of a 1/4" driver. Agree with you that it's more force than I'd like to put through a little tool like that, but have been using this Husky driver for years now and it hasn't let me down yet. If it lets go, it'll probably be while I'm working in the shop because these aren't the type of repairs (pulling the head) I'm likely to be making on the trail anyway.
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Old 02-22-2013, 11:00 AM   #1468
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Tip: If you use/carry an EnduroStar Trail stand, the larger shaft works as a great cheater for mid-size allen keys as well as the 1/4 sliding T-bar that I use as my primary wrench.


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Old 02-24-2013, 11:13 AM   #1469
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:27 AM   #1470
jesusgatos
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Crank Bros tool bits
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