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Old 05-04-2012, 03:25 AM   #1966
XRWilly
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daveinoh View Post
...but I wouldn't exactly be sure what to check next, any advice?
There’s a list of troubleshooting items in the back of the Service Manual for no/weak spark. Do you have that? While you’re waiting for the new coil, maybe start checking your circuits with a circuit tester and multi-meter and making sure all the connections are in order and tight. I’d start at the sparkplug cap because I don’t trust that screwdriver approach…but that’s just me. Also, I’d use the negative battery terminal for grounding; it’s really the only ground you can trust. There are some good short vids on youtube for testing motorcycle coils. Even though you ordered one, you could still check the current coil and maybe eliminate it as the problem. If that's not the problem, there's nothing wrong with having a spare coil for sure. You can find the ohm specs in the Yahoo! Group Files under “Ignition System.” Hope it’s the coil. That would certainly be easy.
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Old 05-04-2012, 06:44 AM   #1967
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Originally Posted by XRWilly View Post
There’s a list of troubleshooting items in the back of the Service Manual for no/weak spark. Do you have that? While you’re waiting for the new coil, maybe start checking your circuits with a circuit tester and multi-meter and making sure all the connections are in order and tight. I’d start at the sparkplug cap because I don’t trust that screwdriver approach…but that’s just me. Also, I’d use the negative battery terminal for grounding; it’s really the only ground you can trust. There are some good short vids on youtube for testing motorcycle coils. Even though you ordered one, you could still check the current coil and maybe eliminate it as the problem. If that's not the problem, there's nothing wrong with having a spare coil for sure. You can find the ohm specs in the Yahoo! Group Files under “Ignition System.” Hope it’s the coil. That would certainly be easy.

Bill,

Thanks for the reply, I will definitely be doing some testing while I am waiting. I also just read that the starter will still turn the motor when the kill switch is set to "off". There is a "slight" chance I missed that during my little diagnostic session as I rarely use the kill switch. The bike is still so new to me I very well could have it in the wrong position! I am going to double check that on my lunch break. I will update so that all may laugh "with" me.
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Old 05-04-2012, 09:45 AM   #1968
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OK, so apparently my wife is right. I AM a dumbass! The bike is just fine, now to salvage my pride.
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Old 05-05-2012, 01:18 AM   #1969
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No worries. Runnin' is what matters.
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Old 05-05-2012, 03:05 AM   #1970
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OK, so apparently my wife is right. I AM a dumbass! The bike is just fine, now to salvage my pride.
That's happened to all of us to some degree. Take heart. The hardest learned lessons are the best learned. You'll not have that problem again.
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Old 05-05-2012, 08:41 AM   #1971
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So apparently, I need a Dr. Jekyl Carb Kit to Rejet my Sherpa.. do you know where I can order it ??

Thank you
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Old 05-05-2012, 08:45 AM   #1972
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Never argue when she is right . Mine is 95 % of the time. We have all did the kill switch off brain fart . Glad that is all it was now go riding
Quote:
Originally Posted by daveinoh View Post
OK, so apparently my wife is right. I AM a dumbass! The bike is just fine, now to salvage my pride.
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Old 05-05-2012, 01:37 PM   #1973
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So apparently, I need a Dr. Jekyl Carb Kit to Rejet my Sherpa.. do you know where I can order it ??
The Jekle rejet approach (photo, suggestions, step-by-step) can be accessed in the Yahoo! Group. Here’s the LINK, which may not work because the site has some security against linking. If not, see the trail below:

Yahoo! Groups > Kawasaki-Super-Sherpa > Files > ***Rejet Carb Info,,Fuel System and PETCOCK CONVERSION*** > *REJET YOUR SHERPA* > REJET YOUR SHERPA.JPG

I’m not sure it’s so much of a kit that they sell. Perhaps they did in the past, but you can get the two jets from your dealer as I did and I got the allen float bowl screws at ACE Hardware. All specs are provide in the link. Good luck!


EDIT: Dang! Sorry about that typo. Geesh!
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Old 05-07-2012, 08:35 PM   #1974
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So I have read a lot of the cold start issues here and have a question. The bike fires up very quickly with the choke out, but it dies after about 30 seconds, unless I start riding and gradually push the choke in. If I push the choke in too quickly it bogs a bit, so I'll pull it out halfway and let it warm for a couple more minutes. Is this common, for the bike not to idle while starting it first thing in the morning? I have messed around with the idle screw and it doesn't seem to help. I have changed the gas/oil, spark plug, cleaned the filter, but haven't looked into the carb yet. I have a 2003 by the way.
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Old 05-08-2012, 05:22 AM   #1975
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Originally Posted by Guillaume View Post
So apparently, I need a Dr. Jekyl Carb Kit to Rejet my Sherpa.. do you know where I can order it ??

Thank you

Join the Yahoo group. There's lots of good information on that site.

As to the kit, it's just a pilot jet and main jet - if I recall correctly, #20 pilot, #130 main jet, and you can get them at a big bike shop (might have to order them) or by mail from Sudco or one of the other parts houses. Changing the jets is an easy job. Once you drill out the plug over the fuel screw, pull off the float bowl, replace the jets and button it back up. Set the fuel screw at about 2 3/4 turns from fully seated, and you're done, unless the fuel screw needs a half turn in or out due to altitude or other factors.

And it's a good idea to replace the philips head screws with allen (hex) head screws, at least on the float bowl. Home Depot or Sears hardware has the screws you need. Take the old ones with you and match the lengths and thread sizes (Metric, 4x0.7 thread if I recall correctly). The JIS philips heads always seem to get buggered.
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Old 05-08-2012, 06:09 AM   #1976
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bellow View Post
So I have read a lot of the cold start issues here and have a question. The bike fires up very quickly with the choke out, but it dies after about 30 seconds, unless I start riding and gradually push the choke in. If I push the choke in too quickly it bogs a bit, so I'll pull it out halfway and let it warm for a couple more minutes. Is this common, for the bike not to idle while starting it first thing in the morning? I have messed around with the idle screw and it doesn't seem to help. I have changed the gas/oil, spark plug, cleaned the filter, but haven't looked into the carb yet. I have a 2003 by the way.
Yes, I would say that is common for this bike. My Sherpa acts exactly the way you described and it seems most do that. Mine is in no way bad enough to bother with rejetting it, but a lot of people do. Cheers.
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Old 05-08-2012, 07:01 AM   #1977
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Originally Posted by Markitect61 View Post
Yes, I would say that is common for this bike. My Sherpa acts exactly the way you described and it seems most do that. Mine is in no way bad enough to bother with rejetting it, but a lot of people do. Cheers.
Mine has been rejetted and I still have to adjust the choke a little during warmup. I start with full choke and then push it in just a little when the engine slows down. Warms up pretty quick and I'm on my way in just a couple minutes.
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Old 05-08-2012, 07:40 AM   #1978
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  • Mixture
  • Compression
  • Spark

If you've got all three, it must start. (I'm assuming starter/battery issues are self evident!)

Test things that are most likely and easiest to test first.
Test things which are less likely, and particularly things that involve dismantling half the bike, later.

So for example, the first three checks are always:
  1. Is the kill switch set to run? (edit: Oops, I see you found it!)
  2. Is there fuel?
  3. Is the fuel tap on?

Compression rarely disappears suddenly without dramatic evidence of things having broken. Watch out for a car motor which spins faster than usual on the starter, the cam belt may have broken.

Testing for spark is pretty straightforward and generally eliminates a whole category of possible problems. But don't forget that if the cam belt is broken, the distributor won't turn and you won't have any spark. Thats not an ignition problem!

Which then typically leaves you looking for fuel or air issues.

It sounds like you've got it under control.

Graham

Can you tell I got caught out by a broken cam belt recently? It wasn't until I took the distributor cap off that it dawned on me what was going on. In my defence, it wasn't my car, so I didn't recognise the cranking speed had increased slightly.

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Old 05-08-2012, 08:00 AM   #1979
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Join the Yahoo group. There's lots of good information on that site.
I've just changed the settings on the Yahoo group so you can now read it without joining, but you still have to join to post.
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Old 05-08-2012, 11:04 AM   #1980
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So I have decided to jump the gun and clean and remove the carb before my manual arrives. I have hit a wall at removing the throttle cables etc. Any advice on how to remove these so I can take off the carb. PS, I have already ripped the fuel line, that thing was gummed on there with something.
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