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Old 03-13-2009, 07:37 AM   #241
blktopburner
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Location: Kansas City, MO
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The good Dr. is very knowledgable and truly a great biker........Here's some other info he sent reguarding tires and Australian model guards and stuff:

__________________________________________________ ______
You picked a perfect bike then for that type of rideing,,,,sounds like the 14t sprocket should be fine like it is then,,,,,,if ya find yerself fighting the front tire offroad because it doesnt keep a straight line or wants to 'wash-out' from under you,,then switch out to the Pirrelli MT21's.

if ya do swap tires,,you might consider a High Fender,,www.happy-trails.com sells the high fender for $70,,thats about the cheapest,,,or go to yer dealer,,,the most commom high fender used is from a 2002 KLR250,,its the Olive Green Color match for the sherpa,,,and will bolt right up useing the old fender bolts,,,just let the air outa the front tire to remove the low fender bolts......The Canada,,Australia, Japan, Greece sherpas all came out with High fenders,,why in the heck USA got stuck with the low fender is beyound me,,,but if you ride any mud,,the low fender will clog up and stop the tire,,or rocks will jam up in it,,most swap to the high fender..Or you can go to maier.com,,or acrebis.com and get a black fender...And if ya do go with a High Fender,,you can then use a 3.00x21 tire instead of the 2.75x21 size,,,,the 3.00 will greatly improve handling offroad,,and you get more miles too outa the tire.

But the 2002 KLR250 fender is the #1 choice,,,some guys trim off 2 inches on the bottom of the fender to resemble a close match to the stock CA,,AU,,JA sherpas,,and some dont trim it,,it still will cool the engine good either way.

If ya do swap out the Low fender for a High fender,,and want to get rid of the Low fender,,give me 1st chance at it,,,,,i am looking for another Low fender to go with a trailer i am building,,,,

On the australian racks and stuff,,,,,a fella on our sherpa group 'Wes' might be able to help ya,,,holler at him,,post a message there looking for the 'Aussy Racks',,he will chime in and either give you a heads-up who to contact down there or he just might be able to locate them himself and fix you up...he is a good guy to deal with........

The bad part about buying down there right now is thier dollar is alot higher than ours,,,,,for the cost of the racks,,or gaurds,ect that they have,,you can buy 2 here in the USA for each one of theres.

The australian 'Stockman' is a Farm bike for the Aussy farmers,,its a sherpa with extra racks,,and gaurds,,,,,Wes may know of a bike salvage yard that has those bikes and you may be able to buy the parts used..

Ive have had a Stockmans 'footgaurd(engine gaurd) before,,it cost me right at $200 to get it (shipping included),,and didnt last the 1st tree stump i hit,,,its very thin and weak,,not worth the money,,i could have built my own and better for less than $50............there are a couple of guys useing the stockmans front rack,,,its ok and can carry extra stuff,,but has its faults when riding at higher speeds ,,like highways,,that rack will cause the bike to act twitchy during road speeds,,,but offroad,,its perect,,,,,figure 55mph top speed onroad with it.

The tailrack(stockmans) is big and wide,,not too many guys have this option on thier sherpa,,,,most go with Turbo City racks,,or happy-trail.com racks,,they are just as stout..me,,ive got the stock kawa rack,,,it will hold a milk crate(size-wize),,but really isnt big enough for a long trail and lots of gear,,i made my own sideracks,,they cost me less than $20 and a days work,,(see album drjekles sherpa)


several guys have made thier own racks and sideracks,,,,,its whatever you want to spend or do.......before ya buy or build,,take a looky at everybody pic albums and decide.......but if yer looking for a long-haul rack and can carry everything but the kitchen sink,,go with the Turbo City racks shown in the links section,,there are a lil costly,,but cheaper than buyin the aussy racks.

if ya decide on handgaurds,id go with full aluminum Moose barkbusters,,or the maier woods aluminum handgaurds,,,either makes plastic shields you can add-on later if you want,,they will save the levers and mirrors....but as long as ya got a full aluminum handgaurd,,you should be ok,,,ive had the stock plastic ones,,no good for falls,,ive had full plastic,,,,they still flex,,no good...aluminum is the best option. If ya do go with full aluminum handgaurds,,you may need to 'de-ball' the levers,,,,just hacksaw the ball-ends off the levers so they will clear the handgaurds,,the levers will still be long enough to work,,and then file the edges down,,,then you have the so-called 'shorty' levers,,,several guys have done this mod,,also,its less of a lever sticking out to get hit by a tree or fall..............be sure the mirrors are not super tight,,just in case the bikes takes a fall to the ground,,you want the mirrors to break-loose where they screw-in just in case they hit the dirt,,if they are tight,,they will snap off at the clamp(mirror clamp will break)a new clamp is $20 for the left side,,and $50 for the right side,,,,,,,i know,lol....

The only weak point on the sherpa is where the 'wires' come out of the engine cover on the left hand side,,,if ya look at the left hand sides cover, you will see a small wad of wireing coming out of the altenators cover(in front),,,just right above the engine gaurd..

that is a vulnerable spot,,if those wires get snagged on a branch thats laying on the ground,,they will get yanked out,,if that happens ,you got a long walk home.

I was rideing one day up north with another sherpa member,,,not very familar with the trails,,,,,i was riding in weeds ect,,and came upon a downed tree,,as i rode around the tree i had to ride over some limbs,,and somehow a limb jumped up and went behind those wires and were yanked out,,,those wires control the ignition,,without them the bike will not run......luckily i had somebody on another bike as i was 600 mile from home and i would have been screwed bigtime..
we had to trailer my sherpa back to the shop,,,but first i had to push the sherpa almost a mile thru the trails to get to the hardroad to load the bike.......

i priced the wireing harness that was yanked out from kawa,,and the only way to get the wireing was to order a new stator/altenator assembly,,,cost was almost $400,,damn,,,,so i took the rest of the day soldering and carefully rebuilding everything that was torn up when the wires were ripped out..i fixed it,,i didnt like the cobble job,,but it worked,,,,and worried me evertime i went rideing again,,,,,,,,.i finnaly found a used stator/altenator on ebay last year for $75,,so i grabbed it and will be replaceing it in the next few weeks as it warms up,,and not worry about the cobbled one i have now.

But what im getting at,,you need something to protect those wires coming out of that cover,,,,a cheap and easy way would be is to take a piece of 1/8" aluminum flat stock,,about 4 inch wide x 4 inch wide,,and rivet it to the stock engine gaurd at the top of the gaurd on the left hand side to go in front of those wires,,you may need to bend the flat stock to form to the front of the cover,but its better than nothing.

or

you can buy a aluminum Moose Engine Gaurd(bash plate) for a KLR650,,(i got mine from arrowheadmotorsports.com,,a KLR650 website),,and there is a photo album in the sherpa group of how to make this gaurd fit the sherpa,,pretty simple,,as you just need to make a cut on the gaurd for the exhaust pipe to clear the gaurd...cost for the KLR650 bash plate is about $75-$80,,or hit ebay up for a used one,,,,the stock KLR650 plastic gaurd will not fit the sherpa,,its the aftermarket Moose/MSR types that will fit with a slight modification,,and this gaurd is high enough to protect those wires,,and also is wide enough to protect the shifter and brake pedal,,and possibly protect yer toes as well...several guys have did this mod,,,you can see this in photo album 'MOOSE SKID PLATE 1988-2007',,if ya do order the gaurd,,be sure its for the year 1988-2007 KLR650,,almost any bike site has it.

as mentioned before,,in the LINKS section is several links to racks and gaurds.

hope that helps,,,as ive tried just about anything any everything on my sherpa as a guinia pig,,just so others wont waste thier time and money....

later,,you may or may not want to consider handlebar risers,,,,if ya do,,dont go over 1 1/2" tall,,any higher and you will need longer cables and brake line,,the risers do help if you ride standing up alot and you have short arms,,,,,,,,,,if you find yerself hunched over while standing,,that gets old quick,,in that case,you need risers....also,,a handlebar brace really helps strengthen the bars for offroad rideing,,,,a good fall will bend the bars easy without the brace................
__________________________________________________ ___
So there you go, in two Emails...about all the questions you would have on this model are damnb well answered....

I like it......had to bookmark this thread tho , ADV is a very large collection of info and correspondence, like to never found my way back here, but now its set...
Thanx Again, I'll let ya know when I get the jets in or get some pics posted !
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'07 BMW R1200GS Adventure
'09 Kawa Super Sherpa
'06 Ducati 620 Multistrada
'81 BMW R100 Vintage Enduro Project


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Old 03-13-2009, 09:05 AM   #242
GsVs
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Yes - The Dr. knows the Sherpa probably better then anyone - and he is more then willing to share that knowledge.

He's a Great guy ...

Looks forward to seeing your new '09 Sherpa.

Larry

[QUOTE=blktopburner]OK....... Thanx GsVs for the heads up....first...signed up on the yahoo site, studied it out really a lot of great info there...

Then I sent the good Dr. an Email with a few questions, got back a wealth of start up answers:
QUOTE]
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Old 03-13-2009, 09:13 AM   #243
mike21b
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Even with the re-jet, the Sherpa can be difficult to start when cold. Even after sitting for only 1 day, the fuel level in the float bowl will drop far enough to make a lean start again.

BUT.... here is the Secret Super Sherpa Starting Procedure (SSSSP), whether stock or rejetted:

1) Place fuel tap to Prime (lever horizontal) for 10 seconds

2) Pull choke knob the whole way out.

3) With your left hand on the choke knob, thumb the magic start button with your right. Don't touch the throttle. It should fire up in less than 5 seconds.

4) Adjust the choke knob so that it settles into an idle speed that is slightly above where it normally idles when warmed up - usually that means that you push the choke knob back in ever so slightly.

If you push the knob in further, it will idle faster, but might not be willing to ride smoothly unless you let it warm up for a while. Otherwise, you can ride off immediately, adjusting the choke knob as you go.

Yes, I know this is more complicated than a fuel injected bike (I have one) where you simply start it and forget it, but once you get used to it, it's no problem at all.

All the above having been written, I still warm the Sherpa up for my wife when she's riding it - she does not like to fiddle with the choke while moving.
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Old 03-13-2009, 08:26 PM   #244
blktopburner
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Am I right ? That the Aussie Agri version actually had a heated carb switch to get the thang lit ???

It's been so cold when and since I got it [only 30's*] that I almost thought I had purchased a lemon....just been to cold to really try out!

But I think different now!
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Album:http://photobucket.com/JCs_super_sherpa

'07 BMW R1200GS Adventure
'09 Kawa Super Sherpa
'06 Ducati 620 Multistrada
'81 BMW R100 Vintage Enduro Project


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Old 03-14-2009, 12:12 PM   #245
blktopburner
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Here my new 2009...
http://s558.photobucket.com/albums/s...3-14-09007.jpg
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where ever you go,
there you are!

JC-"the "Blktopburner"

Album:http://photobucket.com/JCs_super_sherpa

'07 BMW R1200GS Adventure
'09 Kawa Super Sherpa
'06 Ducati 620 Multistrada
'81 BMW R100 Vintage Enduro Project


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Old 03-16-2009, 07:03 AM   #246
mel brooks
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Bored 292 cc Sherpa

My riding buddy who is a retired machinist just finished up what he calls "Super Super Sherpa".

He bored his stock cylinder out to about 292cc's. He's writing the project up, and is supposed to have pics. I'll post them here when he's finished.

We did trials last week, his Sherpa against my stock Sherpa.

Full throttle roll on's from 30-60mph indicated a significant improvement. When we switched bikes, the difference I felt 'seat of the pants' was amazing. With me on his modded bike (about a 50 pound weight difference in my favor) I left him for dead. We also did drags from a start. The stocker didn't have a chance.

This relatively small increase in power really makes a difference on the Sherpa.

Details to follow....


EDIT: Fulll writeup with pics here

linky to writeup at KLRWorld




.
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mel brooks screwed with this post 03-21-2009 at 05:48 AM
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Old 03-21-2009, 05:51 AM   #247
mel brooks
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For folks who don't want to register at KLR World....



The writeup below is from my friend Vic (Yellow Jacket)



For well over 40 years I've always felt that more is better when it comes to power from my motorcycles. My latest project was to install a KLX 300 piston in my SS., thereby making it a 292. The SS, KLX250 & KLX 300 all have the same stroke and use the same size piston pin, 17MM, + they all have the same stud location. All of these motors use a plated aluminium cylinder. My plan was to bore the jug to take a cast iron sleeve that I could fit the 300 piston to.
Here's a couple pic's of the stock cylinder and the new sleeve.



Here is the way the SS looked in my basement for about 6 weeks.


First step for me was to counterbore the top of the jug to except the flange of the sleeve. The c'bore allows the sleeve to stand proud just a few thousands of an inch. This will all be milled flat later. For me at least, it's easier to do this counterbore in the lathe than on the mill. The picture is not reversed, I was running the lathe in reverse, just easier to see what was going on that way.


The sleeve I used is on off the shelf item from MTC. so I had to shorten it by about .600 and re cut the champher at the bottom.



This Project took much longer than I planned, mostly because I have to rely on friends to do the machine work since I have no equipment of my own. This is where suspension guru NCRick really came through for me. He was kind enough to turn me loose in his shop for all the mill time I need. Here the jug is being bored to take the new sleeve. I left about .003 press fit for the sleeve. I also had to clamp the head gasket down and bore it to 78MM, the size of the new piston.


The sleeve installed in the jug. I sprayed a light coat of headed paint on the sleeve before installing. Put jug in oven at 300-350 degrees and the sleeve will drop right in. I used a piece of all thread to hold the whole thing together then did a repeat of the heating process.


I then set the jug back up in the mill and bored it to within about .004 hone stock, and milled the top of the whole jug to get it perfectly flat. The only work I did not do on this project was to hone to size.
Here's a shot of the jug ready to install along with the stock 72MM piston.


One of my main concerns was that with an 18% increase in displacement i would also get a similar increase in compression. This motor does not have an auto compression release so along with increased engine heat output I am concerned about overworking the starter motor. Stock comp. is 9.3:1. With no modifications, I would have had 11:1, too high for my liking. I cut the top of the piston about .030 as well as enlarged the dish and used an extra base gasket under the jug, and ended up with about 10:1 comp.



About the time I got the bike assembled and started it, it started to rain. Rained for 2 days before it quite, only to start snowing. That was our only snow storm of the winter. No test rides today.



After some testing it became appearant that I had a problem with oil leaking. When the jug was bored for the sleeve I broke out into the bottom of the fins in several places. Seems that the oil wicks up between the liner and the aluminum. I'm now working on a fix for that, starting with the easy stuff first. I've applied Locktite 290 after heating the jug again in the oven, hoping that will wick in a harden. If this doesn't work, I'll probably have to remove the liner, cut an "o" ring groove near the bottom of the jug and reinstall the liner.



This week finally I was able to get out for some testing. I talked Mel Brooks into going along on her Sherpa. We did several side by side high gear roll on's from 30 MPH up to about 65. I outweight Mel by at least 60# and Mel's Sherpa is geared down one tooth on the countershaft gear. Mine is stock. I hoped I would be able to stay side by side with Mel. That would have made the project a success for me. I was ahead by about 4 bikes at 65!! WE swapped bikes and the difference was quite a bit more. It defiantly pulls long 50+ MPH uphills much better than stock. Myself, I think this is the Sherpa that Kawasaki should have made in the first place.
I would like to thank NCRick of Cogent Dynamics for allowing me to turn his place on business into a hobby shop. He's a great guy.
Still working on the oil leak problem, will post the final fix when I get it. Also, anyone thinking of doing this, let me know and I'll give you all the part #'s and dimensions I used.
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Old 03-22-2009, 05:39 PM   #248
bennyboy
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My Sherpa restoration.

I guess it's a good place to share some Sherpa stuff.

I was looking for a small bike to replace my SV1000S, just to have fun. I was looking for light bike. But i wanted at least 250cc, I was not that impress with the DR200 i test drove.

Anyway, I found one with 7k miles but the body was not in very good shape, not that i care that much but still.
As i own a VW restoration shop i had everything to fix that bike. So i spent all weekend bringing that bike to life.



For the curious one, here the whole process:
http://www.benplace.com/moto2.htm

Cheers, Ben
http://www.benplace.com/
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Old 03-23-2009, 01:58 PM   #249
sekalilagi
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hey yall

Sooooo I finally got the Sherpa out on the trails for the first time yesterday. Up to that point it had only seen gravel roads. What fun! I'm a little sore today having leaned her over ....for a nap a few times over the course of the afternoon. I'm a noob off-pavement but the tires weren't too keen on mud or decomposing soggy leaves, very squirmy despite my best attempts at throttle management...is this typical? I've read the other posts, so maybe I can blame my tools eh? Oh maybe I just need loads of practice.

I think I tweaked the alignment in one of those naps, any suggestions to re-align the triple trees? The frugal Tusk handguards worked great though I might need more of a rise to the handlebar for standing. What appears to be consensus, a new bar or risers? I've got one inch risers now but would like another inch or two(!) . But that seems to mean new clutch cable, wiring etc.

So really, are the stock tires that bad? I hate falling worse than the cost of improved rubbers. (esp if you figure in cost of ripped up pants, boots, etc).

What a fantabulous bike!
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Old 03-23-2009, 02:22 PM   #250
tomatoe333
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Location: Back on the east side
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sekalilagi
Sooooo I finally got the Sherpa out on the trails for the first time yesterday. Up to that point it had only seen gravel roads. What fun! I'm a little sore today having leaned her over ....for a nap a few times over the course of the afternoon. I'm a noob off-pavement but the tires weren't too keen on mud or decomposing soggy leaves, very squirmy despite my best attempts at throttle management...is this typical? I've read the other posts, so maybe I can blame my tools eh? Oh maybe I just need loads of practice.
Do you still have the stock TrailWings on the bike? Those tires are terrible in anything remotely soft or squishy. Most anything short of a set of full knobbies is going to be iffy in the soft and loose stuff (mud, sand, etc.). If you're going to do more of that, I'd suggest Pirelli MT21's as a good dirt-oriented tire, or Kenda Trakmaster II's (need a high fender for the front). The Kendas are pretty noisy/bumpy on the pavement, but work pretty darned well in the muck. The less aggressive dual-sport tires will tend to have mud pack up into the treads, making them slicker than snot.

Also, practice using the clutch to help modulate rear grip in slippery conditions. It works a lot better than just the throttle, and the combination of the two is the only way to get up hills in slippery conditions. Like most things, the biggest key is practice practice practice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sekalilagi
I think I tweaked the alignment in one of those naps, any suggestions to re-align the triple trees? The frugal Tusk handguards worked great though I might need more of a rise to the handlebar for standing. What appears to be consensus, a new bar or risers? I've got one inch risers now but would like another inch or two(!) . But that seems to mean new clutch cable, wiring etc.
For the alignment, find a stand you can put the bike up onto. I use an old 5 gallon paint bucket with the lid put back on, turned upside down. Lift the bike up onto the stand, rear end first, with your right arm and right leg. Get the front end off the ground, and loosen up all of the triple clamp bolts, as well as the steering stem nut. Make sure the forks are even in the triples, and torque everything back up evenly (yes, use a torque wrench). Dollars to donuts your tweak will have disappeared. It may help to take off the front wheel. Just be careful aligning the speedo pickup assembly when you put it back on. You need to get the tabs into the slots before you tighten down the front axle.

For raising the bars, yes, a bit more height helps with standing. I've got bars about an inch higher and two inches wider than stock on my Sherpa. The stock brake and clutch lines _just_ reach properly. The only real way to know for sure if they'll work for you is to experiment.
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Old 03-23-2009, 02:37 PM   #251
drzoomn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bennyboy
I guess it's a good place to share some Sherpa stuff.

I was looking for a small bike to replace my SV1000S, just to have fun. I was looking for light bike. But i wanted at least 250cc, I was not that impress with the DR200 i test drove.

Anyway, I found one with 7k miles but the body was not in very good shape, not that i care that much but still.
As i own a VW restoration shop i had everything to fix that bike. So i spent all weekend bringing that bike to life.


For the curious one, here the whole process:
http://www.benplace.com/moto2.htm

Cheers, Ben
http://www.benplace.com/
ha! hey i know you from thesamba! welcome to the cult of the super sherpa. i like the red, good match to your vanagon. i am aka vwlovr with the zetec'd 7 pass syncro, i also have a sherpa (well technically it's the wife's, but i pimped it as well making it all black with buell lightening headlights). i'll spare everyone the pic post as it's probably somewhere on this thread, but you can see it here...

http://www.odometer.org/bikes/curren...k/IMG_0232.jpg

wecome to adv, you'll see they are just as crazy here as they are on thesamba, if not a tad more....ok a lot more
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Old 03-23-2009, 04:33 PM   #252
bennyboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drzoomn
ha! hey i know you from thesamba! welcome to the cult of the super sherpa. i like the red, good match to your vanagon. i am aka vwlovr with the zetec'd 7 pass syncro, i also have a sherpa (well technically it's the wife's, but i pimped it as well making it all black with buell lightening headlights). i'll spare everyone the pic post as it's probably somewhere on this thread, but you can see it here...

http://www.odometer.org/bikes/curren...k/IMG_0232.jpg

wecome to adv, you'll see they are just as crazy here as they are on thesamba, if not a tad more....ok a lot more
Hey hey, small world! Ok, i want those dual light! That look is awesome, are they any good?

Ben
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Old 03-23-2009, 04:44 PM   #253
sekalilagi
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Location: Motown, West Virginia
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thanks there tomatoe333, I'll be sure to get her squared away this evening. The stuff we were in was fairly dry but loose in places... I'll be sure to get more practice in. Never realized how much I was missing by staying on the roads. I've the good dr's rejet kit still in the envelope. The bike starts fairly easily, especially since I did the TW200 petcock swap. Almost hate to tweak the tool when I know it is the fool that needs help.
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Old 03-23-2009, 05:26 PM   #254
drzoomn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bennyboy
Hey hey, small world! Ok, i want those dual light! That look is awesome, are they any good?

Ben
they are from a buell lightening xb. here are the part #'s, but the prices have since gone up...

M0023.1AJAYT - headlight grill $25
M1600.1ACMW - black windscreen $60
Y0421.1AD - headlight $59
M0645.1ADA - windscreen mount $24

they work great, they are H7's with hi/lo reflectors. i have them wired so both come on for hi. the shepa's generator seems to keep up.

i have also had them on my old drz motard and my current dr350 dually...
http://www.odometer.org/bikes/curren...114_103803.jpg

http://www.odometer.org/bikes/curren...114_103803.jpg
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Old 03-24-2009, 04:52 AM   #255
GsVs
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