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Old 10-17-2010, 08:48 PM   #931
3xu
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Hanoi Vietnam
Oddometer: 22
black-white 2004, the other 2005.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike21b
Nice pictures! Beautiful country. Nice Super Sherpas, too. We didn't get those model years.
in Japan. I've replaced the KLX's headlight cover.
Quote:
Originally Posted by eepeqez
The elegant black grey orange colour scheme made it to Australia in very small numbers. I think the blue white red bike is an early Japanese domestic market colour scheme.

3XU; do you know if your bikes were sold new in Viet Nam or in Japan?
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3xu screwed with this post 10-17-2010 at 08:57 PM
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Old 10-18-2010, 01:22 AM   #932
eepeqez
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Oddometer: 2,068
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike21b
Yep, I can see you there. A lot of people use a completely different name on different groups / lists and it gets difficult to figure out who is who.

Your Yahoo ID is close enough to your advrider ID.

I'm mike21b everywhere. My name is ...........Mike.
And I'm zebedee, but I look upside down here to confuse the people in the other hemisphere.
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Old 10-18-2010, 01:27 AM   #933
eepeqez
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
Oddometer: 2,068
Quote:
Originally Posted by wcoetsee
...but soon as you about to stop and gear down and pull in the clutch then it almost always dies if you don't rev it a bit. I currently have manual quick fix with some cable ties to keep the choke on the first marker which works ok but this means it still runs very hot and consumes more fuel.
The idle speed adjustment is the knob on a short flexible cable sticking out the left side of the carburettor. Just wind the idle speed up a bit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wcoetsee
Will definitely be looking at the the barkbusters as my fingers nearly froze off early that morning ;)
I was pretty dissapointed at how little weather protection they provide.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wcoetsee
Yeah I agree my ankle is also bit busted up and I need some knee guards cause now I am fairly protective of my knees.
Ankles tend to get mangled in road crashes because they're on the end of long flexible bits which whip about and hit things (legs!) but they also get hurt on dirt from things like dipping a foot when you're going too fast and slamming them into the footpegs.

Shoulders, knees, hips are obvious impact points; heck every time I came off of a pushbike as a kid I mangled my left knee. Gloves are the other essential, a decent helmet is assumed...
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Old 10-18-2010, 01:54 AM   #934
wcoetsee
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Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Point Cook, Victoria
Oddometer: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by eepeqez
The idle speed adjustment is the knob on a short flexible cable sticking out the left side of the carburettor. Just wind the idle speed up a bit.
Thanks mate, running to the garage now to check this out ;) Very keen to learn all the mechanics of this bike in order to help myself around.

Had a look and could not really see anything that clearly resembles a knob as such sticking out the carb...when you say left side would that be on the riders left or right side when sitting on the bike? Also is it a knob that you can turn using your fingers or do you require a tool?

wcoetsee screwed with this post 10-18-2010 at 02:08 AM
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Old 10-18-2010, 02:28 AM   #935
wcoetsee
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Location: Point Cook, Victoria
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Got it! How easy was that! Seems to have fixed the issue maybe a whole new re-jetting is not required after all...

Fired her up with choke out full then adjusted to halfway until she warmed up. Increased the idle speed thanks to eepeqez and switched choke off (all the way in) played around with idle revs until she seemed happy. Will test more thoroughly tomorrow when I will take her out for ride round the block as don't want to wander too far just yet until forks are sorted.
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Old 10-25-2010, 04:20 PM   #936
Caribou Aqua Buddha
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Joined: Jan 2003
Oddometer: 22,983
Wifes Sherpa is coming along, next project rack and luggage.

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 10-29-2010, 06:29 PM   #937
Dragon Rider
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Joined: Feb 2006
Location: "Sunny" Portland Oregon
Oddometer: 226
Just set up the carb per the Supersherpa site's recommendations to remove the 'plug' to access the hidden idle mixture screw on the carb and change out the main and pilot jets on the carb.

The admin on the site has a kit he sells for $20 with both jets and four new screws for the float bowl to replace the crappy ones that like to seize and strip on us.

I emailed him to order one and asked if paypal worked and he replied, I'm mailing one to you, pay me when you get it.

Wow. So I sent him a nice crisp $20.

Just finished the install and the instructions were great, it went off with only three hitches.

There is enough clearance so that if you remove the tank, seat and side panels, move the bars to the right and tug on the throttle cables, you can just loosen the bands and rotate the carb 90 degrees and access the jets from the bottom of the carb. No need to remove it.


Mind you I was assisted by my 5 yr old and my neighbor across the street who
builds hot rots who came over to chat while I was working.

First I had one float bowl screw that was a real @#$@#$@%, but with banding and a great fitting screw driver, I finally got it to move.

Second, that #$%#$% washer on the main jet, JUMPED, I swear I didn't drop it into the engine, that #$%#$%er jumped off and had to be fished out with tape and
a stick.

Third, (remember I'm assisted by two folks carrying on conversations with me) I put the float bowl back on, new screws with antiseize and all, then looked down on the instructions and saw a black plastic carb part sitting there smirking at
me.

Luckily I hadn't moved the carb back into position so it was an easy fix.

I only had time to do a warm up and quick trip around the block. But it sure
warms up faster with NO BOGGING, and was happily ready to ride within two
minutes, heck I probably could have just ridden it cold the way it was running.

Can't wait to see what it does for the low and mid range.

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Old 11-01-2010, 08:27 PM   #938
justNolan
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Houston, Tx
Oddometer: 19
Out riding earlier I realized that my speedometer (and maybe odometer) are not working. I've checked the service manual and done what troubleshooting I can and found the following:
  • The speed sensor is receiving power ~11.1 volts
  • The meter/display seems to be working, wired up a very basic oscillator (3-5 volt swing instead of the recommended 10 V) and did get a mph reading
I haven't got a jack or torque wrenches to remove the front wheel and look at the speedometer sensor itself but may have access to such tools.

Is there anything to be done before I remove the front wheel and check the mechanism? What should I be looking for?

PO installed a tall front fender (2001 model) and I'm thinking either the sensor or the cable are broken.

Sorry to unload in my first post, first motorcycle and I'm a little nervous
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Old 11-02-2010, 03:00 AM   #939
mel brooks
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Western NC
Oddometer: 1,699
Quote:
Originally Posted by justNolan
Out riding earlier I realized that my speedometer (and maybe odometer) are not working. I've checked the service manual and done what troubleshooting I can and found the following:
  • The speed sensor is receiving power ~11.1 volts
  • The meter/display seems to be working, wired up a very basic oscillator (3-5 volt swing instead of the recommended 10 V) and did get a mph reading
I haven't got a jack or torque wrenches to remove the front wheel and look at the speedometer sensor itself but may have access to such tools.

Is there anything to be done before I remove the front wheel and check the mechanism? What should I be looking for?

PO installed a tall front fender (2001 model) and I'm thinking either the sensor or the cable are broken.

Sorry to unload in my first post, first motorcycle and I'm a little nervous

Was it working previously? Or has it always been out?

Reason I ask is that if the front wheel has been off it is possible that the part that attaches to the wheel and spins and sends the signal (on the parts fiche it's called a 'speed sensor magnet') is easily broken if not aligned properly when the wheel is installed.

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot...4320#sch287983
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Old 11-03-2010, 08:20 PM   #940
justNolan
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Houston, Tx
Oddometer: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by mel brooks
the part that attaches to the wheel and spins and sends the signal (on the parts fiche it's called a 'speed sensor magnet') is easily broken if not aligned properly when the wheel is installed.

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot...4320#sch287983
If I'm understanding you, there should be a speed sensor magnet attached to the wheel? Is it free floating (attached to a spoke?)?

I don't believe I have a speed sensor magnet and I appreciate the link (and name). I was looking for the parts fiche, I just didn't know what to call it.
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Old 11-04-2010, 03:07 AM   #941
mel brooks
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Western NC
Oddometer: 1,699
Quote:
Originally Posted by justNolan
If I'm understanding you, there should be a speed sensor magnet attached to the wheel? Is it free floating (attached to a spoke?)?

I don't believe I have a speed sensor magnet and I appreciate the link (and name). I was looking for the parts fiche, I just didn't know what to call it.
Nope, not on the spoke. It mounts between a spacer/seal and the speed sensor itself.

On the Bike Bandit link I posted, you have to go to " meter(s) " on the various parts breakdowns. When you get that loaded, look at part #
21192:
MAGNET,SPEED SENSOR

on the diagram.

It has a couple of prongs on it and they are easily broken off when the wheel is mounted if not aligned properly.
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KLX 351 Super Moto, 292cc Super Sherpa

“Everytime I start thinkin’ the world is all bad, then I start seeing some people out having a good time on motorcycles and it makes me take another look.”
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Old 11-07-2010, 07:31 AM   #942
Kristen
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Joined: Sep 2006
Location: Republic of Floyd VA
Oddometer: 97
New Rear Rack-

Thought I'd show off the rack my husband made for my '03 Sherpa.
Can be duplicated if anyone is interested.



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Old 11-07-2010, 07:43 AM   #943
fried okra
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Joined: Apr 2007
Oddometer: 102
Nice rack....are the original equipment grab bars on the side still doable when using this rack??

Price estimate to duplicate one?

thx,

fried okra
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Old 11-07-2010, 08:35 AM   #944
Kristen
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Joined: Sep 2006
Location: Republic of Floyd VA
Oddometer: 97
Quote:
Originally Posted by fried okra
Nice rack....are the original equipment grab bars on the side still doable when using this rack??

Price estimate to duplicate one?

thx,

fried okra
The rack bolts directly onto the holes where the grab bars were mounted. It should bolt directly on, no modications needed.
There is a possibility that he could add grab rails to the rack frame itself.

This rack will go for $110. plus actual shipping costs.
Satisfaction guaranteed, if you aren't happy, send it back.
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Old 11-08-2010, 03:12 AM   #945
Turborob
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Aussie riding North America
Oddometer: 598
Hi Sherpians.

Graham's tank kit worked well!

Got it fitted ok.



Valves all good at around 8k.



Then did the Kouba links, and whilst doing it, I made a boo-boo somewhere and I found this sheared metal piece on the floor. The suspension suddenly fell, just before I noticed it (when I removed the dog-bones).



Can anyone tell me what this is? Do I need it?



Other than that, looking good!

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