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Old 01-14-2009, 08:50 PM   #151
Pike Bishop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by concours
These threadlockers do not work on stainless steel, they rely on a corrosive effect to hook up. Not my theory, Loctite's facts. Had my boat stuff rattle apart with #242 applied....
Hmmm...I've used 242 on stainless fasteners on my boats for years without a problem. It seems to work just as well on stainless as on mild steel.

Dirty?

Edit: I see you say that to work, Loctite needs to be used on fasteners that corrode. Well, in my experience in saltwater, "stainless" steel corrodes plenty.
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Old 01-15-2009, 03:50 AM   #152
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Originally Posted by porterdog
After wasting ~57.2% of my last bottle I'm a stick convert.
Studies have found that 86.7% of all statistics are made up and not based on any real research. That's up 7% from last year.
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Old 01-15-2009, 04:59 AM   #153
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Anaerobics chemistries are a nifty sort of chemical that gets applied to a metal surface in either a liquid, a toothpasty thick material, or a wax-like stick. They harden or cure over a period of time.

These things don't dry like paint-they cure in the absence of air while in contact with an active metal ion.

By definition, stainless doesn't rust, tarnish, corrode or hold a magnet but we still can use a threadlocker or the like on stainless fasteners, flanged assy's, fittings, etc.

Anaerobic products, such as a threadlocker used on cad. plated, galvanized, inconel, teflon coated, or stainless threaded fasteners normally don't cure to their full strength (breakloose and/or prevailing loosening torque) as the same diameter black iron/steel threaded fastener because the stainless or other coating doesn't offer the needed ions to make the chemical reaction kick while the black iron/steel/unplated fastener does.

Even a cadmium or galvanized fastener with a coating that might be a few hundred atoms thick is still thick enough and offers a physical barrier that is enough to negatively effect the curing process and makes for a lower strength bond.

What do we do about it? Use a primer or a primerless threadlocker.

Primer N or Primer T or the stick primer all are used on inactive substrates to trick an anaerobic chemistry into seeing an abundance of active metal ions, thereby kickstarting the cure. In Very cold temperatures folks way up north where it's cold use primers to help kick start or speed up the curing process.

Primers can speed up the process too much as well which can cause major problems. A little demo I do during training classes is to have the guys apply primer to a black iron 3/8" bolt, apply some red threadlocker liquid, three threads/360, and assemble. This combination of overloading active ions on the fastener makes the nut fixture or lock up before they can even make two complete rounds. Yes, it's that fast.

My work this morning is done. The coffee has worked it's magic and has done it's thing now and that's it for this morning's. I must go.

Dirty
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Old 01-15-2009, 02:25 PM   #154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pike Bishop
Hmmm...I've used 242 on stainless fasteners on my boats for years without a problem. It seems to work just as well on stainless as on mild steel.

Dirty?

Edit: I see you say that to work, Loctite needs to be used on fasteners that corrode. Well, in my experience in saltwater, "stainless" steel corrodes plenty.
Well my experience in the metal fabrication trade for 30 years and living 3 miles from the surf of the Atlantic tells me that the proper 3XX series stainless must be used or it won't hold up. 316 is the favorite balance of strength and corrosion resistance, 304, 304L is soft and will not corrode. It's all about the nickel content. The threadlocker thing is real, if yours didn't fall apart, you didn't need it anyway.
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Old 01-21-2009, 08:52 PM   #155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by concours
Well my experience in the metal fabrication trade for 30 years and living 3 miles from the surf of the Atlantic tells me that the proper 3XX series stainless must be used or it won't hold up. 316 is the favorite balance of strength and corrosion resistance, 304, 304L is soft and will not corrode. It's all about the nickel content. The threadlocker thing is real, if yours didn't fall apart, you didn't need it anyway.
Hmmm, maybe it's saltier down here. I live about a mile from Chesapeake Bay and maybe six from the "surf of the mighty Atlantic" ... and my 316 rusts. Maybe that's why my Loctite works and yours doesn't. Or maybe your boat bangs more than mine do. Dunno.
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Old 01-21-2009, 08:58 PM   #156
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Threadlockers don't work well on wooden pegs

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Old 01-22-2009, 03:48 PM   #157
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Anaerobic sealant?

Couple questions about anaerobic gasket sealant spooge, like you'd use for joining crankcase halves.

The NAPA / Permatex # seems to be the same as the Loctite #. Same stuff?

I bought mine at NAPA and I didn't see any of the prep spray stuff. Will it work OK without it?
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Old 01-22-2009, 06:28 PM   #158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonex522
Couple questions about anaerobic gasket sealant spooge, like you'd use for joining crankcase halves.

The NAPA / Permatex # seems to be the same as the Loctite #. Same stuff?

I bought mine at NAPA and I didn't see any of the prep spray stuff. Will it work OK without it?
Yep, you're right. A company can't trademark part numbers. The "P" company has the same part numbers as some of our products. Sure makes for some exciting confusion with purchasing agents.

To minimize the squeezeout, don't go overboard with the Gasket Eliminator.

The spray prep stuff you mentioned is a primer (completely different than a primer for a '67 Mustang). It activates inactive metals. Clean and degrease the gasketed surface and apply the Gasket Eliminator to the more easily handled case half and mate. You shouldn't have any issues. Let the case sit without oil for 24 hours if possible.

Dirty
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Old 01-23-2009, 08:35 AM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez
Just remember to give the threadlocker time to cure before adding oil, or cranking the beast if at all possible. 24 hours will give a full cure, but if it can cure overnight, it'll almost be ace.
Dirty
Is there a minimum temperature that must be reached for it to cure correctly? I am working in my freezing garage this weekend (~30F) - will this effect the cure/ability to work?

Thanks.
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Old 01-23-2009, 12:31 PM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chef_of_the_future
Is there a minimum temperature that must be reached for it to cure correctly? I am working in my freezing garage this weekend (~30F) - will this effect the cure/ability to work?

Thanks.
Given the temperature of your shop, you need to use the primer.

Give the case a quick spray, and let it sit until the solvent evaporates. Spraying so much of the primer that it pools up and drips off of the case is an overkill. A visible mist on the gasketed surface is what you're after.

By using the primer you'll kick start the cure...especially needed in the cold temperature you mentioned.

You're looking for "7649 Primer N"

Dirty
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Old 01-23-2009, 08:45 PM   #161
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so what is Loctite TiteN for bolts? Is it interchangeable with the regular blue loctite?
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Old 01-24-2009, 05:37 AM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chef_of_the_future
so what is Loctite TiteN for bolts? Is it interchangeable with the regular blue loctite?
I've never heard of this product (same company but different business unit), but after searching the internets Tite'N does seem to be very similar to the regular 242 medium strength threadlocker.

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dirty_sanchez screwed with this post 01-24-2009 at 07:07 AM
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Old 01-24-2009, 06:59 AM   #163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marchyman
Hey Dirty, does Loctite have anything equivalent to Hylomar universal blue?

i think there's two sellers on ebay that have Hylomar for FAR less than Hylomar's website.

i think they post their phone number in their ads so you can order directly, or get the correct shipping cost if you're ordering more than one tube. some also had the spray Hylomar, something i never knew existed before.

i haven't ordered before, but i've gotta order some today or in the next few days.
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Old 01-24-2009, 07:43 PM   #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fixer
i think there's two sellers on ebay that have Hylomar for FAR less than Hylomar's website..
Never thought of checking ebay. Thanks,

// marc
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Old 02-14-2009, 07:31 AM   #165
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Shelf life of Loctite 243 ?

Dirty, Can you tell me the typical shelf life for Loctite in general and 243 specifically?

I remember as a kid in the early 1970s my Dad had some big bottles of Loctite (I suspect he swiped them from the plant) that must have been 10-15 years old at the time, and the stuff seemed to work fine (if I recall correctly, the Loctite he had was a yellowish clear liquid back then...)

Anyway, I just bought a 50ml bottle of 243 (figured I'd save on shipping by buying a bottle that will last a long time) and I'm curious whether it'll still work 10 or 15 years from now.
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