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Old 02-14-2009, 01:43 PM   #166
dirty_sanchez
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Pike- Just like milk, threadlockers have a shelf life as well.

The party line is that liquid anaerobic products like threadlockers, threadsealants, gasketing, and retaining compounds are all good for a year past the born on or date of manufacture. The QuickStix anaerobic stick products all have a two year shelf life.

The nuclear, aerospace, and government agencies all are sticklers regarding dates of expiration.

When I'm on calls I'll point out any bottles that have sticky residue left by the product leaching out of the containers and urge a customer to discard it for more current products.

Dirty
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Old 02-17-2009, 06:32 AM   #167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez
When I'm on calls I'll point out any bottles that have sticky residue left by the product leaching out of the containers and urge a customer to discard it for more current products.
Thanks, Dirty. Sounds like what you're sayin' (without actually saying it all official-like) is that for motorcycles, we're probably OK until the stuff starts leaching through the plastic...?

I know: You could tell me, but then you'd -- Never mind!
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Old 03-04-2009, 06:27 PM   #168
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Does Loctite change torque values?

Hey Dirty,

I'm getting ready to pull the valve inspection covers off my DR650 to check the valve clearance, and I plan to Loctite the screws with 243 when I put them back on.

Question: Will putting Loctite on the threads appreciably change the torque values that I should use to tighten those fasteners, in the same way that a lubricant like anti-seize would? And if so, how?

Also, I assume that the temperatures will be OK in that application for 243?

Thanks for any guidance.

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Old 03-05-2009, 05:52 AM   #169
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Pike-

Threadlockers and anti-seize both lubricate the threads to give you a desired clamp load. One lubricates with usually some sort of metal dust mixed in with grease, and the other lubricates with the anaerobic chemistry.

The K factors aka lubricity factors of anti-seize and threadlockers are both close enough that I would feel completely good with using the same torque value using either product.

Dirty
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Old 03-05-2009, 07:15 AM   #170
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Now I'm glad I checked...thank you sir!
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Old 03-07-2009, 09:38 PM   #171
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Wow great stuff. This should be taught in school. Years ago I used what I believe was red Loctite on the head gasket of my truck. Lots of it, as in a pint sized bottle. The head and block had been damaged from a blown head gasket so as a 17 year old kid I had nothing to lose. Worked great never had a problem after that.

I wish it was this easy to get the transportation info from Henkel I need to ship some of their product.
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Old 03-08-2009, 06:50 AM   #172
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Brain- What do you need? PM me and I'll get you in touch with the right group.

Dirty
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Old 03-12-2009, 08:10 AM   #173
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i'm ashamed to admit that, having just found this thread, i have read the entire thing front to back. along the way i realised i knew essentially nothing about threadlockers, and worse, didn't realise there was that much TO know.

as a steamfitter, i'm much more akin to Nev-r-Seize and pipe dopes of various makes. lately, due to the amount of stainless we've been working with here in Detroit (bio-diesel, ethanol, etc in the dyno labs) i've been elbow deep in PST.

anyone who has had to seal stainless threads (especially stainless unions) knows what a bitch-ass-bitch they can be. PST is your friend.

anyway, thanks for sharing your knowledge and time. and i swear i'll never, never, NEVER buy permatex products again.
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Old 03-12-2009, 12:53 PM   #174
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I just finished going through this thread as well as reading Loctite's Threadlocking User's Guide, downloaded off their website. I also read through another thread on grease and anti-seize. In the process I jotted down some notes for myself, that still need a bit of clarification and filling in. Dirty, if you wouldn't mind correcting and clarificating ... muchos gracias -- and also for all the previous words of wisdom you've imparted.

Firt off, I'm not 100% crystal on the diff between anti-seize and threadlocker. Seems like there's some overlap ... and Loctite products seem to cover both needs. And what's this 567PST? -- it's not mentioned in Loctite's TUG. Is it Red 2620? Or, for a medium application, blue 2422? Oh, and one more thing -- I didn't get clear on how Loctite on an otherwise non-lubed fastener might alter torque. Eh?

ANTI-SEIZE :
- fasteners, high heat applications (e.g. exhaust, spark plugs)
- no copper-based on aluminum
- Optimoly TA [what's the Loctite equivalent? -- Red?]
- Loctite Red - brake rotors (because of heat) ... though my manual says to use Blue [why do you think that is, Dirty?]

THREADLOCKER :
- fasteners, general application
- Loctite 243 (Blue) - most every fasterner on your bike
- Loctite 248 - stick version of 243

Loctite Application
- 3-4 threads, around circumference of bolt
- Blind Holes: "Dribble threadlocker down the length of the threaded engagement area on the female threads in several places, then apply a bit less material to the male threads in several places. Then slowly tighten the bolt." (dirty_sanchez)
- Don't get in contact with plastic
- Loctite on stainless steel okay

Too bad you didn't initiate this thread, Dirty, as you could then edit the original post with FAQ/summary info ... but then again some perusers would miss out on your linguistics.
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matloik screwed with this post 03-12-2009 at 04:58 PM
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Old 03-12-2009, 01:02 PM   #175
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primer needed

So if I want to put a stainless steel bolt into my aluminum subframe or frame that has steel inserts, then I should be using some primer prior to adding the typcial Loctite 243 since the stainless is classified as inactive?
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Old 03-12-2009, 10:33 PM   #176
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What's the deal with Tite'N?
I've been using a tube of it for a while, and it seems to work.
I thought it was a competitor to loctite, but now I've actually looked at it and it says it's made by them. How does it compare to regular blue loctite?
They're both blue....


Also, does anyone know why the HELL Kawasaki uses large amounts of RED loctite for the bar end weights on the Ninja 250? Even with a blowtorch they can be a pain to get off.
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Old 03-13-2009, 06:28 AM   #177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brp2004
So if I want to put a stainless steel bolt into my aluminum subframe or frame that has steel inserts, then I should be using some primer prior to adding the typcial Loctite 243 since the stainless is classified as inactive?
You might consider using primer IF you are working with substrates, both of which are not ferrous.

In your case you have one ferrous substrate so you really don't need a primer.

Primers do the following:
Kick start the curing mechanism in sub-freezing temperatures.
Clean the threads
Speeds the cure
Activates inactive metals

Supercross in New Orleans Tomorrow with Tiny D!

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Old 03-13-2009, 06:32 AM   #178
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[quote=Skippii]What's the deal with Tite'N?
I've been using a tube of it for a while, and it seems to work.
I thought it was a competitor to loctite, but now I've actually looked at it and it says it's made by them. How does it compare to regular blue loctite?
They're both blue....
quote]

I've never heard of that product. Not saying that it's good or bad, just that I'm not familiar with them.

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Old 03-13-2009, 05:57 PM   #179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skippii
What's the deal with Tite'N?
I've been using a tube of it for a while, and it seems to work.
I thought it was a competitor to loctite, but now I've actually looked at it and it says it's made by them. How does it compare to regular blue loctite?
They're both blue....
I've never heard of that product. Not saying that it's good or bad, just that I'm not familiar with them.

Dirty
Okay, thanks.
It's in Home Depot next to the loctite stuff, but it's almost half the price.
http://paint-and-supplies.hardwarestore.com/50-272-threadlocking-compounds/tite''n-for-screws-103713.aspx
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Old 04-06-2009, 04:39 PM   #180
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loctite 270?

I have greased the splines on my bike and the manual calls for loctite 270
so fare i have acumulated $50 bucks in red blue green locktite and the same in permatex.
no one here sells 270 including granger, fasenel, napa, sears, home depot, advance auto. just running out of options.
what would be the next best thing.
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