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Old 04-06-2009, 04:53 PM   #181
marchyman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quest
I have greased the splines on my bike and the manual calls for loctite 270
so fare i have acumulated $50 bucks in red blue green locktite and the same in permatex.
no one here sells 270 including granger, fasenel, napa, sears, home depot, advance auto. just running out of options.
what would be the next best thing.
You in a hurry? Amazon has it. Well, a vendor that sells through Amazon does, anyway.

270 is marketed as a
High strength threadlocker for fasteners up to 3/4" (20mm). Secures large studs and bolts. Intended for parts that do not require disassembly.
You sure that's what you want?

// marc
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Old 04-06-2009, 05:45 PM   #182
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270 loctite

it is what is on there know as i had to heat it up to take the bolts pinion cover bolts out lower unit on an GS1150,
i would use the blue as i plan on making this a normal thing to do. just not shure it will hold up.
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Old 04-06-2009, 07:30 PM   #183
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270 is not a product which is sold here in the US....it's not in our Adhesive Sourcebook...even though another poster found it on Amazon.

I'd go with 262 or 271 before I went with a blue product. The OEM spec's out a red product for a reason.

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Old 04-07-2009, 08:52 AM   #184
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Hmmm 3M

edited to eliminate confusion

SilkMoneyLove screwed with this post 04-07-2009 at 04:18 PM
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Old 04-07-2009, 09:53 AM   #185
dirty_sanchez
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I already crossed the product.



Ole!

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dirty_sanchez screwed with this post 04-07-2009 at 05:16 PM
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Old 04-07-2009, 10:29 AM   #186
SilkMoneyLove
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Thanks Dirty!

I will report that back up the rumor chain. Again, thanks Dirty!

SilkMoneyLove screwed with this post 04-07-2009 at 04:18 PM
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Old 04-10-2009, 08:20 AM   #187
bigtex
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Great thread. I just resupplied myself from the local auto parts store, but I didn't see anyone ask the key Loctite question:

Why does the red stuff come in a little blue tube, and why does the blue stuff come in a little red tube?
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Old 04-10-2009, 09:45 AM   #188
dirty_sanchez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigtex
Great thread. I just resupplied myself from the local auto parts store, but I didn't see anyone ask the key Loctite question:

Why does the red stuff come in a little blue tube, and why does the blue stuff come in a little red tube?
I haven't figured that one out yet either.

Just keep in mind when it comes to all brands of threadlockers the actual color of the product (not the plastic bottle, lablel, or tube):

Blue products are considered "Service Removable" ..removable with hand tools such as 1/4" drive, 3/8" drive.

Red products are considered "Permenant" ..heat from a blow torch may be required to soften the cured product enough for removal to prevent breaking/twisting the bolt during disassembly. Red is an overkill on most all threadlocking applications on a bike....Unless a red product is spec'ed in by the OEM, then listen to them.


Additionally, I still haven't quite figured out why the chicken crossed the road either but I suspect his actions could be related to the close proximity of the KFC.

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Old 04-12-2009, 01:31 PM   #189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez
So you dribble the liquid in the female hole.
Dirty
Ah yes! I remember that well!
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Old 04-13-2009, 02:06 AM   #190
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Quote:
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But you are a very lovely person even if you are a virgin. If you ever make babies dont share these Loctite secrets with your girl during pillow talk.

Instead, could you please give us a list of various Loctite products and their properties, purposes and reference numbers? I admit to being astonished at the stuff you know on this topic. It's also a bit difficult to work out the right Loctite for the purpose needed, given that there are so many for different purposes. Thanks.
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Old 06-02-2009, 09:53 PM   #191
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Is this the loctite thread? I have a question. I have an aluminum brake disc carrier threaded onto an aluminum hub. This is a bicycle setup. I've put on a ton of loctite 609 to help keep it solid. This is sort of a quickie repair where the threads are toast but I've keyed the parts to keep them together.

So let's say I want this 609 to cure, including the bead which is around the edge of the carrier. Is there a non solvent activator I can spray on now that it is already applied? Can I just use some spray paint?
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Old 06-03-2009, 07:10 AM   #192
dirty_sanchez
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P-ho- You have only one of the two components needed to make the 609 Retaining compound cure.

Anaerobic products (threadlockers, sealants, gasketing prods., and bearing retainers) need absence of air (think-airspace between thread roots, or cylindrical fits) in contact with active metals (tarnishes, rusts, corrodes, or holds a magent).

Aluminim hub with an aluminum disk brake carrier...You'll need to prime one of the surfaces (I suggest the hub) with Primer N to force the 609 to cure properly. Primer N is solvent based.

If 609 is all you have and you don't want to buy another product, by all means use what you brung. I'm only asking because 609 is fairly low in viscocity at 125 centipoids (behaves like 10wt motor oil) and has a rather limited cure through ability at 0.005"

If the threads really are that screwed up, primer with Primer N, and use 660 Quick Metal (toothpaste thick) which can cure through a 0.020" gap.

If you are wary of spraying a solvent on the hub, spray the product in a small container and then apply it with a Q-Tip, a pipe cleaner, or even a toothpick.

You mentioned how the threads are buggered up. If they are REALLY bad, I'd suggest 660 Quick Metal which cures through a larger gap than 609. If the threads are just plain bad, 609 will still likely be an overkill on the strength side of things.

Peace, Love and Glue,

Dirty
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Old 06-03-2009, 08:01 AM   #193
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Thanks. In retrospect I should have used primer when I first assembled. But it's all together and I have machined in some woodruff type keys. I just noticed that it had a slight bit of a wiggle to it, so I put some 609 into the gaps in the hope that it would add a bit of strength to it. Can't take it apart right now.

If I spray a solvent-based activator will it remove existing 609?
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Old 06-03-2009, 08:10 AM   #194
dirty_sanchez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by potatoho
Thanks. In retrospect I should have used primer when I first assembled. But it's all together and I have machined in some woodruff type keys. I just noticed that it had a slight bit of a wiggle to it, so I put some 609 into the gaps in the hope that it would add a bit of strength to it. Can't take it apart right now.

If I spray a solvent-based activator will it remove existing 609?
If you can't break it apart, heat is you friend. Once you break it apart, use of a scraper can be used to remove any product remnants.

There aren't any spray-on removers I'm aware of.

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Old 06-03-2009, 08:48 AM   #195
potatoho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez
There aren't any spray-on removers I'm aware of.
What I'm wondering, is if I can spray on some activator after the 609 has been applied, around the edges, or will it ruin the application.
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