ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Gear > The Garage
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 07-13-2011, 07:07 PM   #346
clintnz
Trans-Global Chook Chaser
 
clintnz's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2004
Location: Rotoiti, New Zealand
Oddometer: 3,239
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez View Post

...Einstein ... crosslink ...
molecular ...
chemistry...

Holy shit, somebody slap me. Isn't this site supposed to be about migets, loose women with low self esteem and big gazongas who love to love every lonesome bloke, and motorcycles?

Sorry.

Dirty
Keep up the good work mate, if the chemistry happens to be of the variety that will help save me the five hundred fucking dollars the local dealer wants for a new clutch master, I'm quite amenable to my regular programming of loose women, motorcycles etc being diluted slightly with a little science

Cheers
Clint
__________________
'03 KTM 640 LC4 Enduro

The wilderness, the desert - why are they not crowded
.................................................. .....with pilgrims?
clintnz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2011, 09:03 PM   #347
ER70S-2
Beastly Adventurer
 
ER70S-2's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 4,909
Quote:
Originally Posted by gn77b View Post
just noticed the other day that I've managed to partially strip the outer (aluminum) thread on one of the rocker cover mounting bolts. it's a M7 thread, not sure about the pitch. weld fill repair would be pretty complicated and it's not completely stripped to really need it. would you recommend using Loctite to secure that bolt? what worries me is that there's only about 4mm (or even less) worth of aluminum around that mounting hole and maybe stresses due to the Loctite would snap it when removing the bolt again.
Can you replace that bolt with a stud, Loctited into the aluminum; and then use a nut on the stud?

After many oil changes, I started wondering about the threads pulling out of the clutch cover; the three holding the oil filter cover on. So I Loctited 3 studs into the clutch cover and use nuts, steel on steel will last the life of the bike. obtw: I found that I could use more stud threads into the alum than the stock bolts reached into the clutch cover. (close to 1/4", 30% more surface area in the alum threads)

Edit: Easier but not as strong: chase the threads, run a bolt in until it bottoms, measure available thread depth, cut a longer bolt that will use all of the threads. Don't let the shoulder on the longer bolt mess you up. (possible longer shoulder).
__________________
2004 DR650: 60,466 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 07-15-2011 at 09:12 PM
ER70S-2 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2011, 08:24 PM   #348
B.Curvin
Feral Chia tamer
 
B.Curvin's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2004
Location: Left of the dial. Canton, NC
Oddometer: 2,694
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez View Post

Anybody else have any gasketing, thread sealing, metal rebuilding, threadlocking, wallowed out keyway or bearing fit questions they'd like to offer up to the crowd?


Dirty
Ooh ooh Mr. Loctite, I have a question regarding exhaust studs on a 97 Buell Cyclone head.

The PO had cross threaded both the studs on the rear head. After pulling said head (see what I did there, wank wank) I applied heat, channel locks and cursed. Once removed I ran a tap down the holes. The threads "look" good now and the studs thread in properly. They have a little more play than I would like until they are half way in though. I have red, blue, anti-sneeze AND 606 Quick metal silver retaining compound. Would you recommend one of these when I put new studs in or something else entirely? I expect to rebuild this again with new heads in the next 10,000 miles so that's as far as I need it to get.
__________________
Mutt'n the custard.

Porsche Audi VW

B.Curvin screwed with this post 07-19-2011 at 04:17 AM
B.Curvin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2011, 12:30 AM   #349
warewolf
Tyre critic
 
warewolf's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Nelson, New Zealand
Oddometer: 2,323
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez View Post
Some guys would put an antiseize here, but I'll stick with my threadlocker thank you very much.
Thanks for that. I must say I'm not keen on putting antiseize on anything not specified in the manual.
__________________
Cheers,
Colin
KTM LC4 640 Question? Check here first --> KTM LC4 (640) Index Thread
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve McQueen
All racers I know aren't in it for the money. They race because it's something inside of them... They're not courting death. They're courting being alive.
warewolf is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2011, 06:55 AM   #350
dirty_sanchez
Dirty_Sanchez
 
dirty_sanchez's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2006
Location: Louisiana, Baton Rouge
Oddometer: 2,691
Quote:
Originally Posted by B.Curvin View Post
Ooh ooh Mr. Loctite, I have a question regarding exhaust studs on a 97 Buell Cyclone head.

The PO had cross threaded both the studs on the rear head. After pulling said head (see what I did there, wank wank) I applied heat, channel locks and cursed. Once removed I ran a tap down the holes. The threads "look" good now and the studs thread in properly. They have a little more play than I would like until they are half way in though. I have red, blue, anti-sneeze AND 606 Quick metal silver retaining compound. Would you recommend one of these when I put new studs in or something else entirely? I expect to rebuild this again with new heads in the next 10,000 miles so that's as far as I need it to get.
It sounds like you chased the threads-cleaning up the hole and shaving some less than stellar threads along the way. You mentined that things feel loose half way down, then seem to tighten up a bit. This is good and bad. The loose section of the hole will have likely have lower strength than when the stud gets fully seated.

Is this a blind hole? A threaded hole with a bottom to it?

660 Quick Metal will work just fine in this application. My only fear is if you use it you'll have some difficulty removing the stud down the road when/if time comes for it's need for removal if you don't use some sort of a release agent on the stud. If you don't use a release agent get ready to breakout a blowtorch on the stud along with a large pair of vise grips to get it out. This heat may or may not cause problems in the case.

Of the products you mentioned in your bag of tricks 660 is definately what I'd go with since it has the greatest gap filling ability compared to the other products.

Two other options are drilling and tapping for a helicoil, or using our Stripped Thread Repair Kit.

With the helicoil, you'll need to take measues to ensure perpindicularity, and keeping metal shavings out of the case-which is not that big of a deal. If you take this route, make sure you knock the tang out and hold the helicoil in place at the desired depth with a red threadlocker.

With the Form-A-Thread Stripped Thread Repair kit (pn. 28654), you'll paint the release agent on the stud threads, mix up the material in a 1:1 ratio and dab the mixed product into the hole, thread the stud all the way in, wait two minutes and give an easy 1/8 CCW out on the stud, wait another minute, give it another CW in 1/8 turn. Do this 1/8 turn in and out dance for the next 15 minues and your're done. Let it sit overnight before final assembly though. These kits are strong enough that on a 1" stud, the material can resist nearly 130 ft/lbs of torque.

Just My two cents.

Dirty
__________________
No, really, the mustache means I love you.
dirty_sanchez is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2011, 02:24 PM   #351
clintnz
Trans-Global Chook Chaser
 
clintnz's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2004
Location: Rotoiti, New Zealand
Oddometer: 3,239
Rocking Horse Shit
Bulls Wool
Honest Politicians
Loctite 603

All have a similar availability profile in NZ it seems Local shop sez 603 has been replaced by 609. Should I use that instead?

Cheers
Clint
__________________
'03 KTM 640 LC4 Enduro

The wilderness, the desert - why are they not crowded
.................................................. .....with pilgrims?
clintnz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2011, 04:30 PM   #352
Benesesso
Beastly Adventurer
 
Benesesso's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: West of Phoenix, Arizona
Oddometer: 9,898
My latest engine tip:

Have a Pontiac Transport minivan with the 3.8 engine. Few years ago I installed a set of NGK iridium spark plugs, lubing the threads with my then-usual dry graphite spray or some dry moly spray--don't remember which one now.

Front bank all came out easily, so started on the killer rear bank. Plug on the pass. side (cyl. no.2) was stuck tight. Could not budge it with my 3/8" ratchet. Switched to my longer 1/2" ratchet, and using ALL of the strength in my hand and wrist, I managed to break it loose--you cannot get any good arm leverage on it because the plugs are so hard to reach on the rear bank.

Damn plug fought like hell until it was at least 1/2 way out (real stupid 3/4" reach plugs in a cast iron head--thanks, GM). No head or plug thread damage at all. The other 2 plugs came right out--I was able to unscrew 'em by hand after breaking them loose.

Fortunately I had a free sample "stick" of genuine Loctite antiseize compound, so I gooked the new plugs up real well and in they went. That is the last time I'll ever use dry spray lubes on plugs.

Now to hunt around for another freebie sample (HINT).
__________________
US out of the UN, UN out of the US.

Benesesso screwed with this post 07-29-2011 at 10:04 AM
Benesesso is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2011, 07:09 PM   #353
dirty_sanchez
Dirty_Sanchez
 
dirty_sanchez's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2006
Location: Louisiana, Baton Rouge
Oddometer: 2,691
Quote:
Originally Posted by clintnz View Post
Rocking Horse Shit
Bulls Wool
Honest Politicians
Loctite 603

All have a similar availability profile in NZ it seems Local shop sez 603 has been replaced by 609. Should I use that instead?

Cheers
Clint
Hop to it.

No worries with any of the 6XX products except for the 660. Just make sure it sits undisturbed for 24 hours with the sleeve perfectly square to the assy.

Old worn out chewing gum and a safety pin, don't ya'll have gum and safety pins down there? You might consider these common items. I bet McGuyver could make it work.

Dirty
__________________
No, really, the mustache means I love you.
dirty_sanchez is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2011, 07:15 PM   #354
dirty_sanchez
Dirty_Sanchez
 
dirty_sanchez's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2006
Location: Louisiana, Baton Rouge
Oddometer: 2,691
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benesesso View Post
My latest engine tip:

Have a Pontiac Transport minivan with the 3.8 engine. Few years ago I installed a set of NGK iridium spark plugs, lubing the threads with my then- usual dry graphite spray or some dry moly spray--don't remember which one now.

Front bank all came out easily, so started on the killer rear bank. Plug on the pass. side (cyl. no.2) was stuck tight. Could not budge it with my 3/8" ratchet. Switched to my longer 1/2" ratchet, and using ALL of the strength in my hand and wrist, I managed to break it loose--you cannot get any good arm leverage on it because the plugs are so hard to reach on the rear bank.

Damn plug fought like hell until it was at least 1/2 way out (real stupid 3/4" reach plugs in a cast iron head--thanks, GM). No head or plug thread damage at all. The other 2 plugs came right out--I was able to unscrew 'em by hand after breaking them loose.

Fortunately I had a free sample "stick" of genuine Loctite antiseize compound, so I gooked the new plugs up real well and in they went. That is the last time I'll ever use dry spray lubes on plugs.

Now to hunt around for another freebie sample (HINT).
I'll be in Sturgis next week hanging out at a costume party with 400,000 of my closest friends. The Salute will reap mos heaps of freebies.

Good observation though. The stuff comes in a brush-top for a reason. Cast iron heads with spark plug threads aren't overly choosy with anti-seizes. But on Aluminum heads don't ever use a copper anti-seize on the threads. Any other anti-seize choice is better than copper. Anyone ever heard of a little thing called galvanic corrosion? They don't play well together.

Dirty
__________________
No, really, the mustache means I love you.
dirty_sanchez is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2011, 08:04 AM   #355
ttpete
Rectum Non Bustibus
 
Joined: May 2009
Location: Dearborn, MI
Oddometer: 5,313
Champion sells a sparkplug-specific anti-seize compound. I got mine from Aircraft Spruce & Specialty.
__________________
10 Ducati 1098 Streetfighter S - "Sleipnir"
09 Kaw Versys
67 Triumph Bonneville TT Special
"The problem with Socialism is that you eventually run out of other people's money" _____ Margaret Thatcher
ttpete is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2011, 03:08 PM   #356
dirty_sanchez
Dirty_Sanchez
 
dirty_sanchez's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2006
Location: Louisiana, Baton Rouge
Oddometer: 2,691
Team-

Here's another good technical assistance site sorta like a facebook kinda thing we just kicked off.

http://loctitejobdone.ning.com/

...and if you're going to Sturgis pack your camera and submit some photos to get your name in the hat to win some Loctite Swag.

Dirty
__________________
No, really, the mustache means I love you.
dirty_sanchez is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2011, 05:20 AM   #357
Dave in Wi
Beastly Adventurer
 
Dave in Wi's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Madison WI (40 Square Miles Surrounded By Reality)
Oddometer: 1,899
Three Bond Sealock #10?

I'm shortly going to be installing a new thermoswitch in the radiator of my atv. The factory service manual says to use Three Bond Sealock #10, I can't seem to find it, it might be obsolete.

My question, is there an equivalent product out there?

Followup, do I even need to use anything? It did not appear to have anything on the threads from the factory, and there is an oring on the switch.
__________________
Dave in WI
2002 ZRX1200R
1975 XL100
1988 DT50
"Daddy, it's five o'clock sometime!"
Dave in Wi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2011, 12:24 PM   #358
dirty_sanchez
Dirty_Sanchez
 
dirty_sanchez's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2006
Location: Louisiana, Baton Rouge
Oddometer: 2,691
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave in Wi View Post
I'm shortly going to be installing a new thermoswitch in the radiator of my atv. The factory service manual says to use Three Bond Sealock #10, I can't seem to find it, it might be obsolete.

My question, is there an equivalent product out there?

Followup, do I even need to use anything? It did not appear to have anything on the threads from the factory, and there is an oring on the switch.
Dave-
Two things:
Don't trust a fart if you're over 40, and don't trust an O-Ring.

Get some 567PST or 565 thread sealant.

Make sure the male and female threads are clean, then two threads back from the end apply a band of either product and assemble.

20 years from now it'll be sealed and you'll still be able to take it apart.

Dirty
__________________
No, really, the mustache means I love you.
dirty_sanchez is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2011, 12:43 PM   #359
Dave in Wi
Beastly Adventurer
 
Dave in Wi's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Madison WI (40 Square Miles Surrounded By Reality)
Oddometer: 1,899
I'm over 40 and still trust my farts... Regardless I'll take your advice on the sealant. Thanks!
__________________
Dave in WI
2002 ZRX1200R
1975 XL100
1988 DT50
"Daddy, it's five o'clock sometime!"
Dave in Wi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2011, 07:37 PM   #360
ER70S-2
Beastly Adventurer
 
ER70S-2's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: SE Denver-ish
Oddometer: 4,909
Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave in Wi View Post
I'm over 40 and still trust my farts...
Bad idea.
__________________
2004 DR650: 60,466 miles
2013 WR250R

SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
ER70S-2 is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 08:23 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014