Loctite

[clintnz]

Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez

...Einstein ... crosslink ...
molecular ...
chemistry...

Holy shit, somebody slap me. Isn't this site supposed to be about migets, loose women with low self esteem and big gazongas who love to love every lonesome bloke, and motorcycles?

Sorry.

Dirty

Keep up the good work mate, if the chemistry happens to be of the variety that will help save me the five hundred fucking dollars the local dealer wants for a new clutch master, I'm quite amenable to my regular programming of loose women, motorcycles etc being diluted slightly with a little science

Cheers
Clint

[ER70S-2]

Originally Posted by gn77b

just noticed the other day that I've managed to partially strip the outer (aluminum) thread on one of the rocker cover mounting bolts. it's a M7 thread, not sure about the pitch. weld fill repair would be pretty complicated and it's not completely stripped to really need it. would you recommend using Loctite to secure that bolt? what worries me is that there's only about 4mm (or even less) worth of aluminum around that mounting hole and maybe stresses due to the Loctite would snap it when removing the bolt again.

Can you replace that bolt with a stud, Loctited into the aluminum; and then use a nut on the stud?

After many oil changes, I started wondering about the threads pulling out of the clutch cover; the three holding the oil filter cover on. So I Loctited 3 studs into the clutch cover and use nuts, steel on steel will last the life of the bike. obtw: I found that I could use more stud threads into the alum than the stock bolts reached into the clutch cover. (close to 1/4", 30% more surface area in the alum threads)

Edit: Easier but not as strong: chase the threads, run a bolt in until it bottoms, measure available thread depth, cut a longer bolt that will use all of the threads. Don't let the shoulder on the longer bolt mess you up. (possible longer shoulder).

[B.Curvin]

Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez

Anybody else have any gasketing, thread sealing, metal rebuilding, threadlocking, wallowed out keyway or bearing fit questions they'd like to offer up to the crowd?


Dirty

Ooh ooh Mr. Loctite, I have a question regarding exhaust studs on a 97 Buell Cyclone head.

The PO had cross threaded both the studs on the rear head. After pulling said head (see what I did there, wank wank) I applied heat, channel locks and cursed. Once removed I ran a tap down the holes. The threads "look" good now and the studs thread in properly. They have a little more play than I would like until they are half way in though. I have red, blue, anti-sneeze AND 606 Quick metal silver retaining compound. Would you recommend one of these when I put new studs in or something else entirely? I expect to rebuild this again with new heads in the next 10,000 miles so that's as far as I need it to get.

[warewolf]

Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez

Some guys would put an antiseize here, but I'll stick with my threadlocker thank you very much.

Thanks for that. I must say I'm not keen on putting antiseize on anything not specified in the manual.

[dirty_sanchez]

Originally Posted by B.Curvin

Ooh ooh Mr. Loctite, I have a question regarding exhaust studs on a 97 Buell Cyclone head.

The PO had cross threaded both the studs on the rear head. After pulling said head (see what I did there, wank wank) I applied heat, channel locks and cursed. Once removed I ran a tap down the holes. The threads "look" good now and the studs thread in properly. They have a little more play than I would like until they are half way in though. I have red, blue, anti-sneeze AND 606 Quick metal silver retaining compound. Would you recommend one of these when I put new studs in or something else entirely? I expect to rebuild this again with new heads in the next 10,000 miles so that's as far as I need it to get.

It sounds like you chased the threads-cleaning up the hole and shaving some less than stellar threads along the way. You mentined that things feel loose half way down, then seem to tighten up a bit. This is good and bad. The loose section of the hole will have likely have lower strength than when the stud gets fully seated.

Is this a blind hole? A threaded hole with a bottom to it?

660 Quick Metal will work just fine in this application. My only fear is if you use it you'll have some difficulty removing the stud down the road when/if time comes for it's need for removal if you don't use some sort of a release agent on the stud. If you don't use a release agent get ready to breakout a blowtorch on the stud along with a large pair of vise grips to get it out. This heat may or may not cause problems in the case.

Of the products you mentioned in your bag of tricks 660 is definately what I'd go with since it has the greatest gap filling ability compared to the other products.

Two other options are drilling and tapping for a helicoil, or using our Stripped Thread Repair Kit.

With the helicoil, you'll need to take measues to ensure perpindicularity, and keeping metal shavings out of the case-which is not that big of a deal. If you take this route, make sure you knock the tang out and hold the helicoil in place at the desired depth with a red threadlocker.

With the Form-A-Thread Stripped Thread Repair kit (pn. 28654), you'll paint the release agent on the stud threads, mix up the material in a 1:1 ratio and dab the mixed product into the hole, thread the stud all the way in, wait two minutes and give an easy 1/8 CCW out on the stud, wait another minute, give it another CW in 1/8 turn. Do this 1/8 turn in and out dance for the next 15 minues and your're done. Let it sit overnight before final assembly though. These kits are strong enough that on a 1" stud, the material can resist nearly 130 ft/lbs of torque.

Just My two cents.

Dirty

[clintnz]

Rocking Horse Shit
Bulls Wool
Honest Politicians
Loctite 603

All have a similar availability profile in NZ it seems Local shop sez 603 has been replaced by 609. Should I use that instead?

Cheers
Clint

[Benesesso]

My latest engine tip:

Have a Pontiac Transport minivan with the 3.8 engine. Few years ago I installed a set of NGK iridium spark plugs, lubing the threads with my then-usual dry graphite spray or some dry moly spray--don't remember which one now.

Front bank all came out easily, so started on the killer rear bank. Plug on the pass. side (cyl. no.2) was stuck tight. Could not budge it with my 3/8" ratchet. Switched to my longer 1/2" ratchet, and using ALL of the strength in my hand and wrist, I managed to break it loose--you cannot get any good arm leverage on it because the plugs are so hard to reach on the rear bank.

Damn plug fought like hell until it was at least 1/2 way out (real stupid 3/4" reach plugs in a cast iron head--thanks, GM). No head or plug thread damage at all. The other 2 plugs came right out--I was able to unscrew 'em by hand after breaking them loose.

Fortunately I had a free sample "stick" of genuine Loctite antiseize compound, so I gooked the new plugs up real well and in they went. That is the last time I'll ever use dry spray lubes on plugs.

Now to hunt around for another freebie sample (HINT).

[dirty_sanchez]

Originally Posted by clintnz

Rocking Horse Shit
Bulls Wool
Honest Politicians
Loctite 603

All have a similar availability profile in NZ it seems Local shop sez 603 has been replaced by 609. Should I use that instead?

Cheers
Clint

Hop to it.

No worries with any of the 6XX products except for the 660. Just make sure it sits undisturbed for 24 hours with the sleeve perfectly square to the assy.

Old worn out chewing gum and a safety pin, don't ya'll have gum and safety pins down there? You might consider these common items. I bet McGuyver could make it work.

Dirty

[dirty_sanchez]

Originally Posted by Benesesso

My latest engine tip:

Have a Pontiac Transport minivan with the 3.8 engine. Few years ago I installed a set of NGK iridium spark plugs, lubing the threads with my then- usual dry graphite spray or some dry moly spray--don't remember which one now.

Front bank all came out easily, so started on the killer rear bank. Plug on the pass. side (cyl. no.2) was stuck tight. Could not budge it with my 3/8" ratchet. Switched to my longer 1/2" ratchet, and using ALL of the strength in my hand and wrist, I managed to break it loose--you cannot get any good arm leverage on it because the plugs are so hard to reach on the rear bank.

Damn plug fought like hell until it was at least 1/2 way out (real stupid 3/4" reach plugs in a cast iron head--thanks, GM). No head or plug thread damage at all. The other 2 plugs came right out--I was able to unscrew 'em by hand after breaking them loose.

Fortunately I had a free sample "stick" of genuine Loctite antiseize compound, so I gooked the new plugs up real well and in they went. That is the last time I'll ever use dry spray lubes on plugs.

Now to hunt around for another freebie sample (HINT).

I'll be in Sturgis next week hanging out at a costume party with 400,000 of my closest friends. The Salute will reap mos heaps of freebies.

Good observation though. The stuff comes in a brush-top for a reason. Cast iron heads with spark plug threads aren't overly choosy with anti-seizes. But on Aluminum heads don't ever use a copper anti-seize on the threads. Any other anti-seize choice is better than copper. Anyone ever heard of a little thing called galvanic corrosion? They don't play well together.

Dirty

[ttpete]

Champion sells a sparkplug-specific anti-seize compound. I got mine from Aircraft Spruce & Specialty.

[dirty_sanchez]

Team-

Here's another good technical assistance site sorta like a facebook kinda thing we just kicked off.

http://loctitejobdone.ning.com/

...and if you're going to Sturgis pack your camera and submit some photos to get your name in the hat to win some Loctite Swag.

Dirty

[Dave in Wi]

I'm shortly going to be installing a new thermoswitch in the radiator of my atv. The factory service manual says to use Three Bond Sealock #10, I can't seem to find it, it might be obsolete.

My question, is there an equivalent product out there?

Followup, do I even need to use anything? It did not appear to have anything on the threads from the factory, and there is an oring on the switch.

[dirty_sanchez]

Originally Posted by Dave in Wi

I'm shortly going to be installing a new thermoswitch in the radiator of my atv. The factory service manual says to use Three Bond Sealock #10, I can't seem to find it, it might be obsolete.

My question, is there an equivalent product out there?

Followup, do I even need to use anything? It did not appear to have anything on the threads from the factory, and there is an oring on the switch.

Dave-
Two things:
Don't trust a fart if you're over 40, and don't trust an O-Ring.

Get some 567PST or 565 thread sealant.

Make sure the male and female threads are clean, then two threads back from the end apply a band of either product and assemble.

20 years from now it'll be sealed and you'll still be able to take it apart.

Dirty

[Dave in Wi]

I'm over 40 and still trust my farts... Regardless I'll take your advice on the sealant. Thanks!

[ER70S-2]

Originally Posted by Dave in Wi

I'm over 40 and still trust my farts...

Bad idea.