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Old 07-03-2012, 10:07 PM   #496
nfranco
over macho grande?
 
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: la ca
Oddometer: 758
Hi Dirty,
Do your peeps make a product for neutralizing and or stabilizing rust?
Automotive application, body rust.
Here is my need.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...2#post19052952
Thank you sir.
nick








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Old 07-04-2012, 05:06 AM   #497
dirty_sanchez
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Nick-

Extend Rust Treatment. Comes in an aerosol, or a quart can you paint on. We use it on offshore oil rig legs down here and it works great..

Dirty
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Old 07-22-2012, 06:08 PM   #498
nfranco
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Oh Dirty One,
Once again I come to the mountain seeking enlightenment.
Some of the bearings in the transfer case of my truck have a not quite press fit.
I was able to remove them with a drift and two light taps from a hammer, I was able to press the new bearings in by hand.
Once in I am not able to move them by hand but again easy to remove.
The factory service manual shows a puller to remove them and I'm used to transmission bearings requiring a press or pullers to remove.
The case is aluminum, running in 90wt oil doesn't seem to get over 200 degrees.
Of the bearing retainer products I've seen, 603 seems to be the only one labeled as oil resistant but it's permanent.
I hope to not gave to go back in the case for another 200,000 miles but would like something that won't wreck the cases if I needed to pull the bearings.
Thanks again.
nick
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Old 08-03-2012, 01:37 PM   #499
todd83-900t
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Oh Mighty Stinky,

I'm looking for some magic Loctite potion that will be applied externally and seep into the gasket between the two engine cases and seal up an oil leak that is dribbling from behind the oil filter housings. I guestimate that I'm losing 1oz or so every 50 miles. It didn't leak before a well know engine builder performed surgery on the motor and now I'm staring at a tube of JB Weld before a big trip.

Patient: '05 KTM 450 EXC

Any advise would be appreciated!
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Old 08-03-2012, 02:10 PM   #500
dirty_sanchez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nfranco View Post
Oh Dirty One,
Once again I come to the mountain seeking enlightenment.
Some of the bearings in the transfer case of my truck have a not quite press fit.
I was able to remove them with a drift and two light taps from a hammer, I was able to press the new bearings in by hand.
Once in I am not able to move them by hand but again easy to remove.
The factory service manual shows a puller to remove them and I'm used to transmission bearings requiring a press or pullers to remove.
The case is aluminum, running in 90wt oil doesn't seem to get over 200 degrees.
Of the bearing retainer products I've seen, 603 seems to be the only one labeled as oil resistant but it's permanent.
I hope to not gave to go back in the case for another 200,000 miles but would like something that won't wreck the cases if I needed to pull the bearings.
Thanks again.
nick
Nick-crap bro! I forgot about your question. sorry. I've been up to my eyeballs with work...sticky business, I know, so don't get me started.

My neighbor is perpetually working on his Dodge diesel truck to...make it better. A few weeks ago we installed an external belt driven fuel pump driven by a toothed belt. It was a pretty snug press to get the pully's in place and to make things better, we used 603 or 609 to mount these pullys. In short we got them switched around and by the time we realized this, the stuff had set up to the point that a small crack pipe blow torch and a 3' prybar was needed to get these things off. I was freakin' out but didn't show it.

Am relaying the story because short of pulling the radiator we'd a been positively screwed if heat and the prybar didn't work.

Instead of a Retaining Compound, I'd clean the parts real good, fit the bearings in place and use 290 threadlocker. It'll pull itself in between the OD of the bearing and the ID of the housing. Let it sit undisturbed overnight and you should be ace.

Dirty
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Old 08-03-2012, 02:31 PM   #501
dirty_sanchez
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Todd-

Once the gasket has taken a compression set (discussed earlier in this thread) and this is exactly what has happened...and I'd bet a dollar on it.

Since you already have a seeper on your hands the gasketed surface has already been contaminated. Short of splitting the cases, you're not going to be able to clean the mating surfaces of the gasket.

Don't despair dear Todd, for I have a fix

My chain saw and LC4 lump was doing the very same thing.

The KTM had a small weep where the rocker arm shafts exited the valve cover thanks to the O-Ring seals taking a compression set.

The old Craftsman chainsaw was bought back in the mid-70's and leaked gas pretty badly. It didn't have a free standing tank, the tank was made up of the left and right half of the case.

Here's how I fixed both, but in your case you might consider taking the bike for a spin, get her up to temp, and drain the oil while it's hot and flows a bit easier. Let it drain overnight if you can so the hot oil is encouraged to flow out of the leaking case seam.

Clean and degrease the affected areas and use a toothbrush for a little more cleaning and agitation and extend out a bit just to make it better.

Using an oxime-cure RTV Silicone (one that doesn't have a vinegar smell) like Loctite 598, or Instant Gasket, draw you a bead on the suspect gasketed areas. Flatten out that bead with a cheapie Harbor Freight Metal handle small paint brush with the bristles cut down so they're half length and work the RTV out about 1/4" from the seam.

Don't use a blue, a red, or a clear RTV to make this fix (The brand does not matter) These kinds of RTV's do not play well with fuels or oils...at all.

5 or 6 years later my chainsaw still doesn't leak, and roughly 2 years later the valve cover on the KTM doesn't leak either.

You're done. Let it sit overnight, oil her up and show us some pics when you get back.

Dirty

Quote:
Originally Posted by todd83-900t View Post
Oh Mighty Stinky,

I'm looking for some magic Loctite potion that will be applied externally and seep into the gasket between the two engine cases and seal up an oil leak that is dribbling from behind the oil filter housings. I guestimate that I'm losing 1oz or so every 50 miles. It didn't leak before a well know engine builder performed surgery on the motor and now I'm staring at a tube of JB Weld before a big trip.

Patient: '05 KTM 450 EXC

Any advise would be appreciated!
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Old 08-03-2012, 05:50 PM   #502
stainlesscycle
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is there a product for loose seals in the case (viton coated steel to aluminum)- the opposite of a speedi-sleeve? to set a seals o.d......?
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stainlesscycle screwed with this post 08-04-2012 at 01:14 AM
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Old 08-03-2012, 06:45 PM   #503
dirty_sanchez
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Put a shot of 7649 Primer N enough to completely wet out both the OD of the seal and the ID of the aluminum part, let it evaporate, then draw an adequate bead of 515 or 518 Gasket Eliminator on the ID of the aluminum part, slip it/press it together within 2 to 5 minutes, wipe off any squeezeout and you'll be in high cotton. Let it sit two to three hours if possible.

Working quickly and accurately is uber important because use of the primer kickstarts the fixture of the Gasket Eliminator.

Dirty

Quote:
Originally Posted by stainlesscycle View Post
is there a product for loose seals in the case (viton coated steel to aluminnum)- the opposite of a speedi-sleeve? to set a seals o.d......?
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dirty_sanchez screwed with this post 08-03-2012 at 06:51 PM
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Old 08-04-2012, 01:15 AM   #504
stainlesscycle
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awesome, thanks!
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Old 08-05-2012, 07:12 AM   #505
todd83-900t
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Thanks!
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Old 08-08-2012, 02:21 PM   #506
dirty_sanchez
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Team-

Heading off to work the Loctite Tent in Sturgis on Main Street in the parking lot immediately North of the HD dealership until Sunday.

If you go, stop by the booth and don't forget to give the old ADV salute to the first person you see at the booth and then tell 'em you're looking for some cat named Chip from down south in Louisiana.

Dirty
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dirty_sanchez screwed with this post 08-08-2012 at 07:10 PM
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Old 08-09-2012, 11:55 PM   #507
atomicalex
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Woohoo!! A whole thread about our stuffs!!!

Katherine here, also from the Loctite/Henkel Team, from the other side of the pond. Keep the questions coming, and let us know if you find unusual uses for the products. We can learn, too.....
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Old 08-21-2012, 12:27 PM   #508
Dexter2811
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Dirty, I have a delrin piece that broke, this is the speedometer gear and it will take a month or so to get the replacement, so I don't want to ride without using the odometer. I've tried "superglue" and it didn't held. So, what can I use?



The broken piece is #15 in the pic, and it particulary broke the 2 pieces that sitcks out the gear and locks into the wheel hub.
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Old 08-21-2012, 07:18 PM   #509
Wirespokes
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Valeo Magnet glue?

What do you suggest for glueing Valeo magnets back to the housing? It was recommended to use Loctite 325 SpeedBonder / Loctite 707 Activator, but I looked for it at one point a few years ago and found none here in town.

Is that what you'd use? Would I have to order it from you - seems the auto parts stores around here don't carry much in the way of Loc-tite products.
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Old 08-21-2012, 07:45 PM   #510
dirty_sanchez
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Dexter/Spokes-

I'll call Tech Product Support on Wednesday and get back to you Dexter.

Spokes-The Speedbonder product you mentioned is called a Two-Step Acrylic. The glue part flat out won't do a thing without the use of that Activator. I think that family of products would be a good choice...quick, tough, play well with water, play well with the violence a front wheel sees. You're never going to find this sort of adhesive at an auto parts place. An Industrial Supply house like a Motion Industries, a Hisco, RS Hughes, Applied, Grainger, Fastenal could get this sort of product but they're not going to stock an odd-ball product like this.

Dirty
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