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Old 11-17-2013, 07:57 AM   #631
SilkMoneyLove
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Looks to me like it is leaking up through the stud itself. Could it be traveling up/behind/in the zinc plating?

I have never seen a coolant leak quite like that. I am assuming nothing is above that could drip down on the stud.
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Old 11-29-2013, 11:48 PM   #632
warewolf
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Quick question...and hopefully a quick answer!

I'm using a thread repair kit on the headlight aim adjustment (640 Adventure). There's a thin aluminium alloy frame that the M5 adjustment screw threads right through. The female thread has stripped in the frame. The repair kit has the correct sized drill and tap, and coil thread inserts. All went well until I tried to fit the screw again, at which point it pushed the coil insert out through the back.

There's a handful of ways I could stop this from happening when assembling it, but I wonder if it will dislodge itself later? So my question is: should I Loctite the coil? I'm thinking some 641 super bearing mount, or some stud lock (Loctite red), both are sitting there in the shed. Also have some 648 laying about.

Thanks.
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Old 11-30-2013, 05:27 AM   #633
dirty_sanchez
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I'd get the threaded piece positioned correctly and squarely in the tab, get one of those epoxy sticks, knead it up and mash it in place on the back of the tab and let cure.

It sounds sorta like a riv-nut type setup, and those things have been known to loosen in their hole.

Then use a low strength purple 222 or blue medium strength threadlocker to hold the adjustment screw in place. You'll still be able to adjust the aiming screw with either strength threadlocker.

Good application though!

Dirty
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Old 11-30-2013, 08:33 AM   #634
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I was just going to suggest actually using a Riv-Nut or equivalent. Threads that small directly in aluminum is kinda hokey. It would be PITA if your fix let go in the middle of a long ride.
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Old 11-30-2013, 12:46 PM   #635
warewolf
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Thanks gents... had to google riv-nut! Loctiting the adjustment screw sounds like a good way to stop it happening again - or at least reduce it.

The adjustment screw goes through the frame and sticks out the back, so I'd have to use a doughnut of epoxy stuff to leave clearance.

If it fails, it's not a showstopper. The light will just jiggle around, annoying oncoming drivers. It's done that for a long time before I realised something was wrong.
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Old 12-22-2013, 09:09 AM   #636
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dirty_sanchez, I have few bottles of 648 so wondering if that is OK to use for my job:

On my bike I have an earlier version on clutch cover, which has a hole for the push shaft simply cast into alloy so it gets worn out as the shaft slides in it and can cause a catasprophic jamming.
Solution is to enlarge the bore and use a steel insert.

I have bought a split bushing like this - http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Bea...duct_info.html

The OD, I think, is covered with a layer of tin - could that cause problem with too fast or incomplete curing?

This bushing will be pressed into my bike's clutch cover (aluminum-magnesium alloy), same as this:



Another pic with bushing installed on a German bike.
See how it will need a hole in the side for the bearing to be pressed in later and the toothed shaft to engage through.



My worries are that my bushing will additionally have a split down entire length as well as having a bored out hole, that it is zinc plated and that it will be subjected up to around 80-100 deg. C and engine oil.

What do you think, is 648 going to deal with that?

Any tips or something to watch out for?

Thanks lots!
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Old 12-22-2013, 02:26 PM   #637
dirty_sanchez
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Bli55-I think 648 would be a great choice for this application.

I've pressed in these sleeves/collars into clutch covers before.

Clean all of the surfaces real good, apply a continuous bead on the leading part of the mating surface and press that bugger in. With a Q-Tip or a wadded up piece of paper towel, soak up any squeezeout of the 648 once the bushing is in place.

Let it sit overnight undisturbed once it's in place.

Good question!

Dirty
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Old 01-06-2014, 11:44 AM   #638
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Removing red loctite...

I have to disassemble a Guzzi rear drive I just built a coupla months ago. I used red loctite for the first time in my life on the drive flange bolts per advice I got. So I know I have to heat the bolts up to remove them, but I don't really know how to tell that I have hit each bolt with enough heat. I do have an IR thermometer, but I dunno how wide its angle is...

roy
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Old 01-06-2014, 12:15 PM   #639
dirty_sanchez
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The book says to heat up the assy to 450F for 5 minutes.

Threadlockers are a thermoset plastic. Locally applied heat will soften them.

You might consider heating the parts until you see that first wisp of smoke coming out from around the threaded assy....or until it gets to 450 for 5 minutes.

Please beware though, if you don't heat it enough you very well might strip the metal threads in the assy OR break the threaded fastener. More reasons I'm real skiddish of using red threadlockers on bikes where the mfg. doesn't spec in red threadlockers.

Dirty
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Old 01-06-2014, 01:32 PM   #640
flemsmith
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Thanks for inputs....

I'll make sure it sees some pretty good heat. At least thru first wisps of smoke.

I'll probably put it back together with blue loctite. Red makes me nervous.

roy
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Old 01-06-2014, 01:36 PM   #641
dirty_sanchez
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Originally Posted by flemsmith View Post
I'll make sure it sees some pretty good heat. At least thru first wisps of smoke.

I'll probably put it back together with blue loctite. Red makes me nervous.

roy
Post up a photo if you can and point to what you have to remove.
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Old 01-06-2014, 09:42 PM   #642
flemsmith
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When I get the part in....

I don't plan to take it back apart til I have the replacement part in my hand, but I'll post a picture when I get it to the bolts I'm worried about.

roy
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Old 01-10-2014, 05:29 PM   #643
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OK, here it is...

These red loctited 8 bolts are what I need to remove. I'm actually thinking about putting the assy on my grill for 30 min or so. Other ideas?



Thanks, roy
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Old 01-10-2014, 05:48 PM   #644
dirty_sanchez
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Yep!

Great idea-or even better still, in the oven....while Msflem is out for the day.

I think more even/uniform heating in the oven to 450 to 500F for an hour, just wrap it up in some foil to contain the fumes.

Then hit the bolts with an impact and they'll zip right out.

Are there any oil seals or rubber bits? They'll likely need replacement once the assy gets heated up, so I'd address that potential issue as well.

You'll be fine with either of the above ideas.

Dirty
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Old 01-11-2014, 12:07 AM   #645
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I wouldn't go over 400f as you can start to affect the tempering of the hardened gear teeth above that temp. 400f should be lots to release the Loctite and still do no harm to the gear.
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