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Old 01-11-2014, 04:54 AM   #646
dirty_sanchez
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Good call Jeff- I know my glue but I can't even play a metallurgist on TV.

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Old 01-11-2014, 07:41 AM   #647
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Old 01-11-2014, 10:00 AM   #648
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Probably old news to many but I discovered Loctite in paste form recently on the job and prefer it to liquid for some applications, especially for bolts...

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Old 01-11-2014, 02:21 PM   #649
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I like my sticks. Perfect for the tool bag and for staging bolts on the workbench/magnetic tray. I use the sticks and the liquids equally though-they're different tools in my eyes.

You SOB's are the first I've told of a new improved 9 year old recipe of the blue and red Quick Sticks. Earlier in this thread most of you have learned that anaerobic chemistries cure in the lack of air in contact with active metal ions. And on stainless, cad plated, zinc plated, teflon coated threaded threaded fasteners in order for the Quickstix and liquid threadlockers to cure properly the assy needs the application of a primer which is copper salts held in solution with a solvent. The NEW versions of the old blue and red liquid threadlockers (242 and 263 and the red and blue Quickstix have improved formulations and are now primerless.

The Quickstix will still be called 248 Blue and 268 Red, and the traditional blue and red liquids are now called 243 Blue and 263 Red.

I'm off today and am not going to say anything else that's work related.

Had a killer ride with Wescat today. He collected some bugs in his teeth judging from the smile on his face after all of those twisties! Fun day, bro!

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Old 01-11-2014, 03:38 PM   #650
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400F worked perfectly!

...to remove the red loctite in my Guzzi rear drive flange bolts. I wrapped the drive flange in aluminium foil to cut down on the odor, set the oven for 400 and waited an hour. Bolts came out with no problem. Tt worked so well, I might use it again for that application. Mebbe.

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Old 01-11-2014, 08:03 PM   #651
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Dig it! We all learned something with your fix

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Old 01-11-2014, 08:31 PM   #652
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I'm glad I could contribute a tiny little thing to this thread of awesomeness Dirty!! Glad it worked too.
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Old 01-18-2014, 08:23 AM   #653
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Bli55-I think 648 would be a great choice for this application.

I've pressed in these sleeves/collars into clutch covers before.

Clean all of the surfaces real good, apply a continuous bead on the leading part of the mating surface and press that bugger in. With a Q-Tip or a wadded up piece of paper towel, soak up any squeezeout of the 648 once the bushing is in place.

Let it sit overnight undisturbed once it's in place.

Good question!

Dirty
Dirty, I just received my part back from machining friend - he enlarged it to 14.02 mm (bushing measured at 14.00 fully squeezed together). It is a very tight fit, there will only be 1 chance.

Part of the problem is that I'm planning on heating the case to 50-70 deg C, which will speed up the cure at least somewhat....
As such, I'm worried that the 648 might set whilst the bushing is still on the way in!

Any tips?
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Old 01-18-2014, 09:27 AM   #654
dirty_sanchez
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Originally Posted by Bli55 View Post
Dirty, I just received my part back from machining friend - he enlarged it to 14.02 mm (bushing measured at 14.00 fully squeezed together). It is a very tight fit, there will only be 1 chance.

Part of the problem is that I'm planning on heating the case to 50-70 deg C, which will speed up the cure at least somewhat....
As such, I'm worried that the 648 might set whilst the bushing is still on the way in!

Any tips?
Heat the case, freeze the bushing, apply a bead of retaining compound on the bushing, spread it around, and quickly press it into place.

I'm saying "quickly" because elevated temperatures tend to make anaerobic chemistries fixture more quickly than they fixture on cold parts.

If it really is that tight of a fit, shore up the case in a press so that you'll be able to push the bushing into place perfectly square. If a bearing press isn't available, drive it home with a small hammer and a brass drift.

Wipe off any squeeze in and squeeze out and let it sit overnight before you put it into service.

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Old 03-17-2014, 01:58 PM   #655
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Finally tested my clutch in operation before writing back here....smooth as silk! Thanks for your tips!

I did screw it up the first time, but eventually...



Full post - http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...3&postcount=52


----

Totally forgot...So I'm thinking to help retain my fairing bolts, which bolt through plastic panels usually into a clip-on nut.
You have mentioned how loctite makes some plastics crack, do you have any particular info about PP and PA? What about composites, epoxy, fiberglass, carbon...

If the above aren't compatible, has anybody used anything else that will work like sealant or similar?
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Old 03-22-2014, 08:24 AM   #656
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Bli55-Great this fix was successful for you! Thanks for checking in to let us all know the outcome.

Any other successes in using machinery adhesives like the retaining compound you used are appreciated by those who might encounter similar applications on our trusty steeds

Peace Love and Glue to all and to all a good days riding!

Dirty
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Old 03-22-2014, 12:01 PM   #657
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I've been reading this thread and I have learned alot. Thanks for the discussion guys!
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Old 03-24-2014, 05:37 PM   #658
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Originally Posted by RFVC600R View Post
I've been reading this thread and I have learned alot. Thanks for the discussion guys!
+1

I've never been much of a loctite user. I just put it on when the manual says to use it and that's about it. The other day, following threads from this and that, I end up at a youtube vid showing a guy making a worm gear. He takes a steel blank, bores it out, and slips it over a shaft with nothing but loctite. Next day, he chucks the shaft and threads that blank into a worm. It blew me away that loctite could be that strong... nothing more than a slip-fit and glue.

Loctite has now gone from the additives and stuff mental pile over to the tool pile. I'm wondering where else I can us it.

David...

Loctite at about 5:30m in...

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Old 03-24-2014, 07:18 PM   #659
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Some of this stuff is so strong it'll shear off a bolt as you try to loosen it-I kid you not. A one-part anaerobic chemistry.

I have a customer who is a welder by trade, started an emergency vehicle company and we did some strength studies a few years back on joining parts with glue which is much less expensive vs. welding the same parts and then tearing them apart on the Instron machine in the lab up in Connecticut. The metal tore in the welded bead and with the bonded parts. Shear strength of the bonded parts were just as strong as welded parts. I have been told this for years but I had to see it with my own eyes. Talk about piss off a welder when a punk kid can join parts as well as a 30 year skilled hand.

Most auto mfg's use a retaining compound-like you made reference to on accelerator pedals in cars they make because it speeds production and lowers assy costs.

I could go on and on, but it's some strong stuff.

It's a sticky business-so don't get me started.

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Old 03-24-2014, 08:15 PM   #660
RFVC600R
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So you can Loctite some things instead of welding them? That's fucking cool!
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