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Old 04-21-2014, 05:20 AM   #706
atomicalex
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Hey dirty, hope you are feeling better! I'm back in MH now, love seeing this thread bumped and all the info shared. Gotta say, the pavement riding back in DÜS kicked butt compared to what we have around here.



<-- still coating everything that doesn't call out a particular product with 290 just so I can get it back out eventually.
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Old 05-12-2014, 07:46 PM   #707
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The thread got buried.

Thanks guys I really do appreciate the well wishes, stitches are out, scabs are flaking off, and Tiny D, who's taller than I am now, has been hounding me to bring him to the track after we replaced his clutch plates on his 250. It's funny because it starts every week on Monday or Tuesday-

Hey Mr. Dirty (I've been his step dad for 8 years now but he still calls me Mr. Dirty)..uhh, what are you going to be doing this weekend? Oh, I don't know.... uhhh, you think we could go riding......?

Still not sure about pulling the trailer with a gimp throttle foot in a plastic boot.

Now to get a sturdier pair of boots than my 10 year old Oxtar Infinitys.

Dirty
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Old 05-12-2014, 08:05 PM   #708
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I had a buddy that broke his left ankle badly. For nearly 2 years he drove his Dodge pickup using a cane in his left hand to push the clutch pedal when changing gears! We used to razz him about his REALLY BIG left arm!

Get well soon....justjeff
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Old 05-17-2014, 10:13 AM   #709
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Mr. Dirty Sanchez,

I have a little air leak in the exhaust system where the two pipes meet.

Only product I can find in my backwater town is Loctite C5-A 8008. Would you say this would be good product to seal the gap?
I've used some copper paste in the same place before, and it worked well.


Cheers.

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Old 05-17-2014, 11:06 AM   #710
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Originally Posted by Balkan Boy View Post
Mr. Dirty Sanchez,

I have a little air leak in the exhaust system where the two pipes meet.

Only product I can find in my backwater town is Loctite C5-A 8008. Would you say this would be good product to seal the gap?
I've used some copper paste in the same place before, and it worked well.


Cheers.
Wow, "Mr. Dirty Sanchez".... sorta makes me feel important, and it's not even Sunday (bath day here at the house).

The LC4 has an exhaust joint like that and use a graphite looking sleeve, so at first glance, I'd find some Beta microfiche and get the right thing, but Since you're asking for a specific product suggestion, you're after an oxime cure ultra high temp RTV- Loctite 5920 Copper RTV, 70ml, pn. 30542.

Our stuff is now on Amazon, as well as hundreds of other Industrial Distributor partners. Up where you are, the huge parts house with the "Red Book" should have it.

Great question!

Dirty
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Old 05-17-2014, 12:31 PM   #711
Balkan Boy
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Thanks mate.

There isn't a sleeve for the Beta in that place (mine is a 400RR btw.). They put a catalytic convertor (witch I removed) in that joint. The fit of the pipes is pretty good and the gap is very slight, but enough to suck air and produce popping on deceleration.

I'll look for the 5920.
The store where I found the anti-seize is actually an official distributor, but no one would guess that when seeing the three stale tubes they offer.
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Old 05-18-2014, 05:21 AM   #712
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Our stuff is now on Amazon, as well as hundreds of other Industrial Distributor partners. Up where you are, the huge parts house with the "Red Book" should have it.
I've really noticed you guys followed my advice and have been getting distribution in a lot more consumer-oriented outlets. Makes it a lot easier to use the good stuff!
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Old 05-22-2014, 04:10 PM   #713
MotoJim
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Loctite 2400

Dirty,

I recently installed the Kriega Overlander 60 luggage system. It came with a bottle of Loctite 2400. It is a very dark blue (indigo). I am assuming it is a British version because I could not find it here in the States. Can you tell me what the US counterpart might be?

This is a great thread!

Thanks,
Jim
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Old 05-22-2014, 04:22 PM   #714
dirty_sanchez
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Dirty,

I recently installed the Kriega Overlander 60 luggage system. It came with a bottle of Loctite 2400. It is a very dark blue (indigo). I am assuming it is a British version because I could not find it here in the States. Can you tell me what the US counterpart might be?

This is a great thread!

Thanks,
Jim
2400 is one of the newer medium strength blue threadlockers that is marketed as an Enhanced Health and Safety product. A few years back marketing decided we needed to jump in on the GREEN bandwagon with safer products, so 2400 the blue removable and the 2700 red permenant were invented. These products really are safer for your hands, and if you compare the MSDS sheet for these products to their other blue and red counterparts, the ratings for the Green products have the same safety ratings as water in most all of the sections.

Personally, I like my 243 Medium Strength Oil Tolerant Primerless Blue Threadlocker when working on my bikes. If the old 242 is what you can find, use it as well. For the threadlockers on a stick, those are 248 for the blue and 268 for the red, Quickstix.

Again, I try to keep this thread as generic as possible so as not to try and to sell anything, but if any of you ask me for a specific from a US, EU, AUS, Asian crossover or equiv, or part number, I'll give it up, and give it to you straight.

Dirty
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Old 05-23-2014, 05:43 AM   #715
Hipster
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Dirty, it the Loctite 248 the stick equivalent of 243?
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Old 05-23-2014, 06:08 AM   #716
dirty_sanchez
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They're both a medium strength blue threadlocker good for fasteners from 1/4" up to roughly 3/4" (says the catalog).

My rule of thumb is ratchet size. If I'm using a 1/4" ratchet, it gets 222 low strength. 3/8" ratchet-it get's blue.

243 and 248 Quickstix are different tools that both are a removable threadlocker that stop loosening from vibration and thermal expansion/contraction, and stop galvanic corrosion, but that's where the similarities stop.

The biggest thing that separates the two products is the way you deal with a blind hole. We can't use the 248 stick to lock a threaded fastener in a blind hole. For this specific application you'd still need the traditional liquid.

243 is the newest medium strength threadlocker, it is primerless meaning it works on ferrous and non-ferrous threaded fasteners, is good to 350F, works on lightly oiled considered "as received" nuts and bolts, is a little thicker and darker in color than the old 242, and you don't have to shake it up before you use it.

248 is the stick form of the old 242 threadlocker. I like these things because I can throw one in my tool bag or jeans pocket and not worry about it busting open leaking all over my tools or my wang.

I hereby challenge each one of you try to work the word "wang" into a conversation at least once today.

Even still, I still use the stick threadlocker more than the liquids.

Dirty
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Old 05-23-2014, 10:00 PM   #717
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I hereby challenge each one of you try to work the word "wang" into a conversation at least once today.
It is Friday as I write this. Everybody Wang-Chung tonight.
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Old 05-24-2014, 09:22 PM   #718
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Hey Dirty, I've been wrestling with the oil/coolant pump on my BMW K bike. It's difficult to make oil/coolant tight, as there are no gaskets between the pump/engine case or the pump cover. Having failed in my first attempt with a competitor's sealant, I got some Loctite 515 on-line as I found no local supplier. Now I'm reading about having to use a special Loctite primer as well? Really?
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Old 05-25-2014, 05:00 AM   #719
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Name this condition

I like these things because I can throw one in my tool bag or jeans pocket and not worry about it busting open leaking all over my tools or my wang.

Would this condition, if it happens, be known as "cock lock"?

Thank you. I've been using and misusing these tools for along time. You've really helped out.

Thanks for your effort and humor.

Todd
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Old 05-25-2014, 06:45 AM   #720
dirty_sanchez
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Triple T- Earlier in the thread we talked about how all of the anaerobic products are applied as a liquid or dabbed onto a surface like the sticks are applied-then turn to a hard thermoset plastic over a very short period of time when air is removed (think an assembled nut and bolt or an assembled gasketed assembly)....while in contact with a metal ion (you're going to have to find that post on your own for the explaination).

So, lack of air, contact with an active metal ion makes this stuff kick.

When both of the base metals are made from an inactive metal, the good book says you'll need an anaerobic primer (solvents do the cleaning, and copper salts do the activating) in order to make it cure properly.

In theory you do need the primer, but.....in your case if you can clean both mating surfaces real good with some acetone, contact cleaner, or some other residue-free cleaner/degreaser, let evaporate, apply a thin bead of that 515, reassemble and wipe off any visible squeezeout-cause I'm anal that way, and let it sit undisturbed to cure for a day.

All of these anaerobic products will cure on non-ferrous metals with enough time, and by letting your assembly sit for a day, it'll be cured good enough to get your rolling again.

Now....if you had hit one of those gasketed surfaces with a Primer that tricks the chemistry into believing it's sandwiched between two ferrous surfaces, you'd be ready to roll in 30 to 60 minutes. Primer speeds the cure.

Muddriller- Thanks for being the first to name that condition. It's very fitting that a guy who goes by the name of Muddriller has finally named that horrid condition hereby and forever known as ****-lock. I'll surely pass this discovery onto the Marketing Department. They may need your real name and address for royalty payments.

Gotta go now, the Coffee just kicked in.

Dirty

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