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Old 10-16-2007, 12:53 PM   #61
PackMule
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Hey Dirty, got any passes to that little rally shindig you guys sponsor over in Africa?
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Old 10-16-2007, 02:15 PM   #62
dirty_sanchez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PackMule
Hey Dirty, got any passes to that little rally shindig you guys sponsor over in Africa?
If you're serious I'll ask one of my buds who is the marketing director for an entire catalog of our products.

Are you really serious?

I've tried to get hitched with some of the Nascar, Indy, and Forumula 1 events and didn't even get sand kicked in my face. Guess the field hands don't get any hand-me-downs.

Dirty
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Old 10-18-2007, 11:39 AM   #63
PackMule
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez
If you're serious I'll ask one of my buds who is the marketing director for an entire catalog of our products.

Are you really serious?


Dirty


You have PM.
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Old 01-24-2008, 06:48 AM   #64
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Got a loctite application question. I have a screw that threads into a carb body that holds a plastic insert in. Is there a Locktite product that will work on or near plastic that won't melt the plastic?
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Old 01-24-2008, 09:51 AM   #65
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for what it's worth, i have a bottle each of low/med/high lock-tite brand sitting on the shelf..of all three, the low is what i reach for 90% of the time(mind you this is for a my touring bike only) still i'm finding that the low strength is quite adiquate for most my needs. i kinda regret having bought the other two, but then i'm a cheap bastard. d-sanchez a few postings back you mentioned that the low strength stuff was mostly for small faseners. med for med size...etc. wouldn't the contact area of a fastner increase with the increase with the size of the fastner? so that low strength chemical locking agent would have a corrasponding larger break loose number? please forgive if the the wording isn't quite right here. just a question that's come to mind . anyway i do enjoy this thread, and appreciate the wealth of knowledg here.
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Old 01-24-2008, 10:11 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_gr8t_waldo
anyway i do enjoy this thread,
Good pun ... whether you meant it or not
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Old 01-24-2008, 10:17 AM   #67
dirty_sanchez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhino105
Got a loctite application question. I have a screw that threads into a carb body that holds a plastic insert in. Is there a Locktite product that will work on or near plastic that won't melt the plastic?
Anaerobic threadlockers, all brands of them, will stress crack many types of plastic faster than you can spit. Depending on the type of plastic anaerobic chemistries will also dull a shiney plastic surface if the product comes in contact with many types of plastics. Don't use a threadlocker if the fastener threads into a threaded plastic component of some sort. A low strength instant adhesive (super glue) is what you're after.

Anaerobic threadlockers, sealants etc. don't melt plastic-they might produce stress cracks though, so use caution, keep the products off of the plastic.

If this metal screw is threaded past a non-threaded hole in a piece plastic, then threads into another metal component, you'll be fine-just keep the drips off of the plastic.

Dirty
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Old 01-24-2008, 10:35 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_gr8t_waldo
for what it's worth, i have a bottle each of low/med/high lock-tite brand sitting on the shelf..of all three, the low is what i reach for 90% of the time(mind you this is for a my touring bike only) still i'm finding that the low strength is quite adiquate for most my needs. i kinda regret having bought the other two, but then i'm a cheap bastard. d-sanchez a few postings back you mentioned that the low strength stuff was mostly for small faseners. med for med size...etc. wouldn't the contact area of a fastner increase with the increase with the size of the fastner? so that low strength chemical locking agent would have a corrasponding larger break loose number? please forgive if the the wording isn't quite right here. just a question that's come to mind . anyway i do enjoy this thread, and appreciate the wealth of knowledg here.
Knowing just enough to be down right dangerous, I reach for the blue threadlocker in either stick or liquid form nearly 100% of the time if I feel the M/C application is even remotely subject to fastener loosening from vibration, thermocycling, or has a potential for corrosion from rust or galvanic corrosion.

Hmm, you think with that all encompasing statement I've included just about every single fastener on my bike? I have.

The percentage metal to metal contact on a run of the mill threaded fastener remains at around 15 to 20% on everything from machine screws all the way up to 2" and larger threaded fasteners.

Granted, I deal with this thing every day during the course of my job with Loctite and know this stuff like the palm of my hand, but here's what I tell folks to help them select a threadlocker:

Threadlockers come in 3 main strengths in 3 colors, low/purple, medium/blue, and high/red (aka permenant).

Low/Purple is for fasteners you might use a phillips/flat head jewelers screw driver set, small allen wrench, or a 1/4" wratchet for assembly/disassembly.

Medium/Blue is used when I'm using 1/4" or 3/8" wratchet, 4mm or larger allen wrenches, or phillips/flathead screwdrivers where there's not much threaded engagement.

High/Red is never used on my bike. Some Harley Guys swear by it, but this cat doesn't. Red Threadlockers are considered permenant because you might have to take a blow torch to heat up a fastener which was locked with a red threadlocker, so beware! You've been warned.

Dirty
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Old 01-24-2008, 01:44 PM   #69
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Just wanted to say thanks, Dirty. Everytime I read this thread, I take away something of value.



Chris
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Old 01-24-2008, 06:20 PM   #70
ibafran
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The red loctite is used on Sportster transmission door screws. Definitely, screws that you dont ever want to come adrift without doing it yourself.

Harleys have several fasteners that are buried in places that cause big headaches if they back out. Red loctite seems to be the only peace of mind for such screws/bolts. Often, safety wire and mechanical securing devices including peening of the parts is just not enough.
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Old 02-05-2008, 07:31 PM   #71
Mulga
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Question

Howdy,

Just a quick question.

I have to replace the sight glass on my 640a as its cracked. It the one on the right side ignition cover.

The sight glass is fixed with Loctite 648 (i presume as thats what the say to fix it with). Do I need to use heat to remove the sight glass if so how much?

Cheers

Dan
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Old 02-07-2008, 07:59 AM   #72
dirty_sanchez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mulga
Howdy,

Just a quick question.

I have to replace the sight glass on my 640a as its cracked. It the one on the right side ignition cover.

The sight glass is fixed with Loctite 648 (i presume as thats what the say to fix it with). Do I need to use heat to remove the sight glass if so how much?

Cheers

Dan
Dan- Great question.

Since the sight glass is already cracked/leaking, go ahead and carefully tap it out the rest of the way-if it's like the waterpump seal, you'll have to push it out from the outside to the inside but remove the ignition cover first.

As to using heat- It will help you remove the piece. How much, the party line says for any permenant anaerobic product removal apply 450F for 5 minutes, then remove. Dirty's book of the gospel says heat it up until the first wisp of white smoke is visable.

In this case, I'd be wary of heating up that ignition cover.

Make darned sure to get the entire groove cleaned out of all crumbs and residue and completely devoid of all oil to ensure the most reliable seal with a residue-free cleaner/degreaser.

Since you'll be pushing this new sight glass into a groove, I would apply a continuous bead of 648, 640, 641, (all have similar viscosities, fixture times and gap filling capabilities) IN the actual area where the sight glass will finally come to rest once it is in it's final resting place. Depending on how deep the groove may be, take a toothpick or cotton swab and wet the surface with product to give the sealing surface of the sight glass a slippery surface to slide on as it is pressed into place so as not to damage the seal tip.

Wipe off any excessive squeezeout and reassemble. I strongly advise don't add engine oil until after you let the 648 sit undisturbed for a full 24 hours to allow for a full cure.

Add oil and commence to smiling after the full cure has been reached.

Dig?

Dirty
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dirty_sanchez screwed with this post 02-07-2008 at 08:09 AM
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Old 02-09-2008, 07:05 PM   #73
NatsFan
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Anybody use T.I. laquer (sp?) on fasteners. We used it in the Army so we could easily tell if a fastener had moved or had been tampered with. Seams like it would be great piece of mind, and spead up your pre trip inspection. BTW does anyone know where you can get it? I had considered using nail polish, but could never decide on a color
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Old 02-09-2008, 07:20 PM   #74
dirty_sanchez
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I use threadlocker on nearly every single fastener on my bike.

And as an added sense of giving me a quick visual confirmation I use a paint pen to to draw a line across the head of major fasteners and a dot on the subcomponent it secures. This way a quick glance at the bike and I can notice if any of the marks come out of registration.

If the marks don't line up, the fastener has moved.

Dirty
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Old 03-21-2008, 12:27 AM   #75
marchyman
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Hey Dirty,

Which is better when using the loctite stick... too much or too little? It seems that I'm not coordinated enough to get the amount just right (and am not even 100% sure what just right is ). I put the threads on the edge of the dispensor so there are 4 or so threads in the goo and then rotate the bolt. Seems like half the time nothing sticks and the other half I get globs. Which is the prefered abomination

// marc
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