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Old 03-21-2008, 05:18 AM   #76
dirty_sanchez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marchyman
Hey Dirty,

Which is better when using the loctite stick... too much or too little? It seems that I'm not coordinated enough to get the amount just right (and am not even 100% sure what just right is ). I put the threads on the edge of the dispensor so there are 4 or so threads in the goo and then rotate the bolt. Seems like half the time nothing sticks and the other half I get globs. Which is the prefered abomination

// marc
If you're in my territory, you use an entire tube of QuickStix threadlocker for every single nut and bolt, the remaining portion should be tossed into your oily rag bucket with pomp and circumstance as an offering to the gods of speed.

In all other parts of the world the QuickStix product should be advanced to the approximate depth of the thread roots of the fastener, then swiped perpendicular or crossways on the threads so the product gets deposited into the thread roots. The chamfer on the ID of the nut helps to pull the product into the area of threaded engagement.

I normally perform this act in several locations normally on opposite sides of the bolt.

PM me for the contact info for my two Gearhead Loctite compadre's out in the Bay Area if you want a more local contact for perodic guidance.

Dirty
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Old 04-02-2008, 01:46 PM   #77
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Loctite and permatex. Napa guy says they're the same company. Pretty sure Dirty Sanchez already addressed this.


Dammit I hate that I can never find a local shop that sells what I need.
this is like the time when I asked for a coolant brand that was good for aluminum systems (like bmw) so I didn't have to buy the expensive special coolant (like bmw) and the "expert" at the parts store smarted off to me and said "aluminum is aluminum and you don't need special coolant."

I guess i'm glad to know that there's only 1 kind of aluminum in the world and that permatex and loctite are the same thing.

You really get an education at these parts stores.
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Old 04-02-2008, 03:39 PM   #78
dirty_sanchez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by datchew
Loctite and permatex. Napa guy says they're the same company. Pretty sure Dirty Sanchez already addressed this.


Dammit I hate that I can never find a local shop that sells what I need.
this is like the time when I asked for a coolant brand that was good for aluminum systems (like bmw) so I didn't have to buy the expensive special coolant (like bmw) and the "expert" at the parts store smarted off to me and said "aluminum is aluminum and you don't need special coolant."

I guess i'm glad to know that there's only 1 kind of aluminum in the world and that permatex and loctite are the same thing.

You really get an education at these parts stores.
Loctite and Permatex are not the same company.

Loctite and Permatex are not the same company.

Loctite and Permatex are not the same company.

Did they try to sell you a pipe stretcher?

A left-handed skyhook?

A bucket of ohms?

Just remember there are some people in this world who are destined to bag french fries, dig ditches, become brain surgeons, or sell glue, so be careful who you befriend.

Years back, I'd say 10 years or so, Loctite courted and later bought Permatex.

Since the world wide interweb is all seeing, and I can't tell what I know about this, I'll just say that we later sold off the Permatex division.

Did I mention Permatex and Loctite aren't the same company?

Well, they're not.

Dirty
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Old 04-03-2008, 11:50 AM   #79
datchew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez

Just remember there are some people in this world who are destined to bag french fries, dig ditches, become brain surgeons, or sell glue, so be careful who you befriend.

My friend, there are certain folks that I've learned to just nod as if they imparted some deep knowledge to me, and then just get the hell out.
They know everything. Just ask them and they'll tell ya. Thus was the case with the guy at the parts store.

Grainger has a stick of the blue 248 (i think) coming in tomorrow for me. I asked for the 567 and they couldn't "find it in our catalogue sir."

I'm a magnet for idiocy and incompetence.
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Old 04-03-2008, 03:21 PM   #80
dirty_sanchez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by datchew
My friend, there are certain folks that I've learned to just nod as if they imparted some deep knowledge to me, and then just get the hell out.
They know everything. Just ask them and they'll tell ya. Thus was the case with the guy at the parts store.

Grainger has a stick of the blue 248 (i think) coming in tomorrow for me. I asked for the 567 and they couldn't "find it in our catalogue sir."

I'm a magnet for idiocy and incompetence.
It IS in their red book, and their pn is 5A236-I guess you moved his cheese.

567PST is my workhorse threadsealant.

Dirty
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Old 04-04-2008, 11:02 PM   #81
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torque seal

Quote:
Originally Posted by NatsFan
Anybody use T.I. laquer (sp?) on fasteners. We used it in the Army so we could easily tell if a fastener had moved or had been tampered with. Seams like it would be great piece of mind, and spead up your pre trip inspection. BTW does anyone know where you can get it? I had considered using nail polish, but could never decide on a color
Aircraft Spruce sells "torque seal" that is used for just that purpose. You can choose from a few colors...
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Old 04-06-2008, 05:42 PM   #82
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My BMW dealer used some yellow paint to try to do that and I discovered that it didn't really work. When I removed the fasteners at least half the time, the paint just unbonded from the fixed part of the bike and rotated with the fastener, instead of shearing to indicate the fastener had moved. You may have to be careful with cleaning the area to get good bonding or the paint may fool you.

I'll try the torque seal next time I order from Aircraft Spruce (bad timing, I just received an order from them a few days ago). Link to material below

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/f900.php
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Old 04-09-2008, 07:19 AM   #83
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Ok Dirty... here's one for ya:


I have an application that involves a press fit of a cylindrical piece of aluminum into the ID of an aluminum flange (same type aluminum.)

Here's a pic of it under development.



The filler neck that you can't see very well under that gas cap, will be about .004" smaller than the ID of the aluminum flange. We'll heat one, cool the other, and then put them together.

There will be ZERO shear forces in this application because the filler neck will seat on a shelf and also be held from rotating with a set screw.

I want to put something in the connection to prevent weepage/fumes from gasoline. I have a tube of Loctite 515 Flange sealant (red goop) and am wondering if it will be sufficient for this purpose.

Thanks.

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Old 04-10-2008, 10:12 AM   #84
dirty_sanchez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by datchew
Ok Dirty... here's one for ya:


I have an application that involves a press fit of a cylindrical piece of aluminum into the ID of an aluminum flange (same type aluminum.)

Here's a pic of it under development.



The filler neck that you can't see very well under that gas cap, will be about .004" smaller than the ID of the aluminum flange. We'll heat one, cool the other, and then put them together.

There will be ZERO shear forces in this application because the filler neck will seat on a shelf and also be held from rotating with a set screw.

I want to put something in the connection to prevent weepage/fumes from gasoline. I have a tube of Loctite 515 Flange sealant (red goop) and am wondering if it will be sufficient for this purpose.

Thanks.

Datchew- I think 518 will work just fine for this application, but by heating one part, I'm afeared the heat might make the 518 kick too quickly.

Is the shrink fit desired for increased strength? If not, why have you designed this assy. to use a shrink fit?

I a shrink fit is only desired for increased strength, I propose to machine to 0.001 to 0.002" slip fit, and instead of having a square leading edge of the male portion of the part to be pressed, machine a chamfer on this part to lessen the plowing effect so the 518 does not get pushed out of the way during assembly.

If this sounds acceptable, on ambient temperature parts that have been completely cleaned and degreased, prime (7649 PrimerN, pn. 21348) the male portion of the assy. and let evaporate, then apply a fairly even film of 518 to the entire contact area of the female part of the assy. then slip the two pieces together. Then let sit undisturbed for 12 to 24 hours.

This should do the trick, and don't forget to post up a few pictures of the finished project.

Dirty
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dirty_sanchez screwed with this post 04-10-2008 at 10:17 AM
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Old 04-11-2008, 07:38 AM   #85
datchew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez
Datchew- I think 518 will work just fine for this application, but by heating one part, I'm afeared the heat might make the 518 kick too quickly.

Is the shrink fit desired for increased strength? If not, why have you designed this assy. to use a shrink fit?

I a shrink fit is only desired for increased strength, I propose to machine to 0.001 to 0.002" slip fit, and instead of having a square leading edge of the male portion of the part to be pressed, machine a chamfer on this part to lessen the plowing effect so the 518 does not get pushed out of the way during assembly.

If this sounds acceptable, on ambient temperature parts that have been completely cleaned and degreased, prime (7649 PrimerN, pn. 21348) the male portion of the assy. and let evaporate, then apply a fairly even film of 518 to the entire contact area of the female part of the assy. then slip the two pieces together. Then let sit undisturbed for 12 to 24 hours.

This should do the trick, and don't forget to post up a few pictures of the finished project.

Dirty
It's designed that way to prevent the insert from rotating when I twist the gas cap on and off. Thought about putting a dutchman (set screw) into it, but I figured this way it would be tight enough to stay in place without help.


We already chamfered the leading edge for the reason you described. I'll take it down a bit though or else just use cold on the insert instead of heat on the flange so I don't make the loctite "kick" as you said.


Will drop a link to the finished product when it's done so I don't hijack your thread too much.

Thanks.
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Old 04-24-2008, 11:02 PM   #86
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Dirty is the man Thanks

You responded to my post with the answer of quick metal for repair THANKS. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=332993
Well I measured the OLD bearing and shaft and the dimensions are 24.96 and 24.98, ( I'm not a machinist and am using a harbor freight digital caliper)sorry I didn't check in inches. The old bearing can be pulled off by hand (loose).The new bearing will be here today and I will try and start putting it back together, but will measure the new bearing id.
Is this fit to narrow for "toothpaste 660" ie will it wipe it off when I press it on, or will that thin of a coat still work? Would one of the other retainer sealants work better?

" 660 will work just fine......as long as that bearing is not meant to spend it's life having a shaft floating hither and yon. If you lock it and it isn't intended to be locked, bad things will happen.

Clean and degrease the shaft with a residue free cleaner, dab a thin even film on the shaft, slip her home, wipe off the squeezeout on the leading edge of the inner race and let sit undisturbed for 24 hours. Reassemble and ride.

If you don't have any 660, a red threadlocker will be about 2/3rds as strong as the 660, which I think would have adequate strength."

Later,
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Old 04-25-2008, 03:51 AM   #87
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RED question

DS, as far as "RED" is concerned, I see two kinds of RED, permanent and high strength. 262 and 271 respectively. Can you explain the difference between these two and applications for each? Thanks
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Old 04-25-2008, 06:04 AM   #88
dirty_sanchez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bass_on_tap
DS, as far as "RED" is concerned, I see two kinds of RED, permanent and high strength. 262 and 271 respectively. Can you explain the difference between these two and applications for each? Thanks
"learning while riding the short bus"
Each of the products has a different breakloose and prevailing torque.

271 is stronger with a breakloose of 250 w/prevailing of 275, it's intended for High strength for fasteners up to 1" in dia.

262 has a breakloose of 250 with a prevailing of 275, the book says High strength for fasteners up to 3/4"

Either way, each of the threadlockers is red, and red means stop and think if you really want to permenantly lock that assy. together. You'll likely break something if you attemp disassembly without heating the fastener until the threadlocker gives off it's first wisp of smoke before disassembly.

Another general rule of thumb for threadlockers and retaining compounds I've noticed over the years is the larger the number of the product, the stronger it is.

222, 242, 248, 262. 268. 271. 272, etc. There's plenty more

R/C's, 603, 609, 620, 638, 680, 660, etc. There's plenty more

I've been getting some awesome questions sent via PM's, and I always ask they post it on the Loctite thread so some else might learn something, so unless your good lady wife superglued your dinger to your leg and need to get it unstuck, or some other private issue you need help with, post 'em up on this thread.

It's Friday and I'm excited because I'm taking Tiny D out riding in the woods tomorrow.

Dirty
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Old 04-26-2008, 10:18 AM   #89
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Old 04-26-2008, 10:47 AM   #90
dirty_sanchez
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Quote:
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Funny

Under normal circumstances the world wide interweb give us all a sense of anonymity, but some of us have offered up too many clues as to our identities local haunts, and unspeakable habits.

And I wonder why that no matter how many times I tell Ms. Dirty that it's only kinky the first time still hasn't worked after all of these years.

Dirty
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