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Old 04-04-2015, 07:44 PM   #1
kaptinkaos OP
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Location: Airdrie, AB
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KaptinKaos' New Old 640A

Well... I didn't think I'd start a thread on this... But it's snowing and I'm sick and... Well, keeping a record is always a good idea, lol! Sold my 990. Just wasn't the right bike... I was at odds with it at times and it's frankly more than I need for the riding I enjoy. Add to that the price tag and selling it before I destroyed it was a good idea. So... Pondering the issue I was faced with, I researched a lot. I needed something that I would feel comfortable riding in Baja, but also touring on. Toyed with the idea of getting another 650 Dakar, but knew I'd still have to get a YZ/WR front end for better suspension and then upgrade the rear shock to Ohlins. I wasn't prepared to size down only to spend more!

Then I debated a 690R, but I'd also need to dump a ton of money into parts like an RR kit for more fuel, windscreen, etc and I'm not a fan of the 690R EFI. Rode one and found it gross and spongy. I knew I could fix that with a re-map, but the $4000+ I'd spend on parts was not cool. Then I remember the bike I couldn't find when I bought my Dakar... The 640 Adventure! It's literally perfect for my needs in every way, :) Decent WP suspension, not as heavy as the 990, a few more ponies than the Dakar, and pumpkin orange!!! Sure, some of the maintenance on a 640A is... well... annoying, lol! But, I can deal with a weird oil change burping and the oddities that come with every KTM I've every owned.

I hunted for a couple months for a nice one... Stateside, and Canada. For a time I thought I was going to have to do a fly-n-ride or drive somewhere ridiculous to find one. A proverbial hen's tooth as it were... Finally, one popped up close to me with 40,000kms on it that seemed in decent shape so I snapped it up!


Bam!


Mostly stock even! Has heated grips (Symco el cheapos, but they work fine) and there was a bit of nasty wiring mess that I ended up gutting and re-doing. Seems to be pretty stout and nothing irreparable or too messed up. Still going through it with a fine tooth comb. I hadn't intended on spending a great deal of money on upgrades, but some things I do require.

Firstly, luggage rack is already on from PO which will support my GL Great Basin bag and I plan on getting a Fandango tank bag for it. The Great Basin is white so I'll probably get a white Fandango too. My EXC is all white which is why I have white soft bags. There, luggage sorted!

Second, an orange high fender. Plenty of mud where I ride in the spring. Any stock KTM fender from 07-12 fits perfectly on a 640. I did a test fit with a spare front fender from my 450 and it's perfect. Check!

Third, super clean and straight forward wiring. I really hate dealing with PO's wiring jobs, so I gutted it and re-did everything. He had a cheap knock-off light bar on it, I honestly have headlamps that throw more light, so I removed it and tore the harness out replacing connectors, greasing connections and inspecting wires and hoses as I went. Ended up finding a fuel line that was almost worn out in the process so replaced it also. Thankfully he didn't hack into the stock harness to wire up that LED bar so everything still works as needed.

Now that the wiring had been sorted I decided to do something about the 14 candle power the stock lights throw out. I wanted more light with less draw and I also wanted the low beam to be a single light and the high beam to be both lights... all using stock harness and stock controls and switches. Tough request? Nah... I gutted the stocks out and ended up settling on some VisionX Optimus Halo 3.7" 10W LED rounds. The match the stock light size almost perfectly, but mount completely differently...

Stocks beside the new VisionX Optimus LED's


Big difference in weight and bulk! With only 20 watt draw on two of the new lights I'd be substantially decreasing the draw while putting out more light. Funny how quick the LED industry has improved and gotten cheaper. At ~$250 for a pair with a harness I'd reccommend these to anyone wanting to add aux lights or replace headlights. You can also just get singles and wire them in however you choose. You can get polycarbonate covers for $15 that protect and can also change the beam pattern. I'll run the low (left side) with a euro light cover and the high (right side) with a clear spot cover and carry a third amber euro cover for those foggy/dusty days. The halo function will be the only thing not tied into the stock harness even though you could tie it in to the small 12v bulb spot in the high beam circuit.

A little fab work on a replacement bracket system to mount the LED's


And some fiddling...


They fit very well!


The mounting bracket is nothing more than some 1/8" aluminum stock I had kicking around the shop. I literally beat it into submission on my vice and roughed it in by eye. Not a difficult task, just time consuming, lol! The new lights still use the stock rubber mounts (reducing vibes, increasing light life) and are easy to take out and return to stock if need be. Now on to the harness and how I will tie directly in.

Why are these so hard to find?


Instead of continuing the search for non-waterproof connectors, I decided to upgrade the connections. Instead of keeping the stock molex connectors I'll change the bike side and lights side over to deutsch connectors. 2 pin for low beam and 3 pin for high beam. They are much better than those Molex connectors, but pricey. The switch was an easy matter to change from a one or the other switch. Just put a hopper wire to the low beam contact from the high beam contact (3 contacts, jumper contact position 2 to 3) to make it low beam = 1 light and high beam = 2 lights. Fairly simple really and being able to use the stock switch gear is great. Doesn't look modified at all! On the dash I've added a single throw weatherproof switch to turn the halos on or off and they are wired as such to allow me use of them even when the bike is off. This will come in handy when camping or if a buddy needs some light to work on his bike in the dark or if you're just rolling the bike around in the dark to move it. They are EXTREMELY low draw LED rings (2 watts) and are just bright enough to softly light a small area. Once I get the deutsch connectors in and everything buttoned up I'll add some pics of the lighting.

Now I'm at a stand still unfortunately. I need new front and rear rotors for this beast to pass inspection, so until they arrive from Austria I only get to stare at it. Thankfully I have the 450 to entertain me once I get over this flu,

With a stock 07-12 KTM fender on. (No, I'm not going to run both... just was making sure the fender fit before ordering an orange one, lol!


I'm debating a Scott's (because of not wanting to spend money...), and am needing to change this:


Into this:


I know how I like things set up in my cockpit. A damper is almost a must for my southern desert riding and a lot of rise is needed for my tall frame. So... I'll probably add a Scotts underbar mount + 1" rise or more. The bars are good, but some proper bark busters will go on also. I'll get a set of Cycras like I have on the 450. They're stout and have worked well for me so far. I'm also thinking about a bit higher of a front fairing... I can get one out of AUS, but pricey... The stock one is kind of beat up (cracked along the left side to the dash) and I want to ride it more on the highway and at speed off road to see if more wind protection is necessary first.

I was sad the day I sold my 990... But am happier now to have a big thumper back in my life.

P.S. - The 640's do NOT vibrate as bad as everyone says they do. It's a perception thing I'm sure. If you've always ridden smooth 4-stroke 4 cylinder road bikes, yes... the 640 is a paint shaker. If you've ridden thumpers all your life? It's fine!
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Old 04-04-2015, 09:27 PM   #2
supercoyote
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Glad you found the right one. The light bar looked a little cheesy in the photo's. How's the beam pattern on the new LED's?
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Old 04-04-2015, 09:38 PM   #3
kaptinkaos OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supercoyote View Post
Glad you found the right one. The light bar looked a little cheesy in the photo's. How's the beam pattern on the new LED's?
They are all standard spots in the halo version. In the regular version you can get spot 10 degree or 40 degree or 60 degree full flood. The covers are what really makes them turn into a proper headlight and they haven't come in yet. I'm being patient due to not paying more than cost for pretty much everything, LOL!

How's the ST treating you?
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Old 04-06-2015, 06:13 PM   #4
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Interested to see how they throw when everything is all done up! Looking good so far, convinced me to keep the old girl myself.

ST? I'm not in the know and i'm showing it
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Old 04-06-2015, 06:25 PM   #5
kaptinkaos OP
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Originally Posted by supercoyote View Post
Interested to see how they throw when everything is all done up! Looking good so far, convinced me to keep the old girl myself.

ST? I'm not in the know and i'm showing it
Lol, got ya mixed up with another guy that sold his 640. He's way out east though in Ontario. You're not gonna do a DRZ trade I take it? Personally, after having owned as many different bikes as I have, I gotta say... A big single is just THE way to go if you like off road and traveling paths less taken. It's literally just a big dirt bike that's street legal. Perfection on two wheels for me. :)

I'm curious to see how the lights perform too. If they suck it's a 30 min process to take these out and slap the stocks back in. That's the beauty of the setup. Plus, they're the same lights I use for fogs/aux on the truck and I can always use more light on that thing. I have a feeling they'll be too bright if anything. I'm hoping the euro covers give it a good low spread without blinding oncoming traffic. If not, I'll run them in spot mode to decrease the spread to oncoming traffic. Honestly, you can't beat these for only 20 watts total draw. I can run both on all the time and not worry about running into overdraw on the system and killing the battery.

Tomorrow I'll get a couple of Molex connectors and plug them in while I wait on the deutsch connectors to arrive via post. Maybe if it stops snowing I can get them aimed half-a$$ed too, lol!
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Old 04-06-2015, 06:28 PM   #6
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Have you done any mods to your carb? Mine is super clean, but I'm gonna pull it out tonight and check which jet is in it and make sure the float is fine. Seemed to want to putter out after idling at a light... I blip it before setting off to get whatever is not working right working again, but not sure what the issue is. I've done the needle clip mod now, drilled the vac holes in the slide and set the mixture to 2 turns. If it has a leak in the float or the jet is way wrong that could be my problem.

Edit: Could have even been bad gas. I've drained the float bowl and the tank of any old gas and will start from fresh when back together.

kaptinkaos screwed with this post 04-06-2015 at 06:43 PM
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Old 04-06-2015, 07:53 PM   #7
clintnz
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Nice! While you are messing around with wiring in there check the base of the ignition barrel - the adv's are bad for breaking wires there, a ziptie or 2 in the right place will stop them flexing right at the end.

40K km is about when you should be thinking about popping off the cam cover to replace the cam follower roller bearings, & to service the water pump. Lots of info on here in the LC4 index thread.

Cheers
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Old 04-06-2015, 09:27 PM   #8
kaptinkaos OP
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Originally Posted by clintnz View Post
Nice! While you are messing around with wiring in there check the base of the ignition barrel - the adv's are bad for breaking wires there, a ziptie or 2 in the right place will stop them flexing right at the end.

40K km is about when you should be thinking about popping off the cam cover to replace the cam follower roller bearings, & to service the water pump. Lots of info on here in the LC4 index thread.

Cheers
Clint
Yep, water pump rebuild is on the list while it's apart. Imp, gasket, seals and shaft is all a guy really needs, correct? Plus, I'm almost positive it's the original fluid in there... looks... murky. I'll put some engine ice in after a flush.

I've already addressed the ign barrel. Was looking around in there to check for strain on any wires and the ignition barrel is in just the right spot to almost pull those out as it passes by the support strut. Good call.

Even though the maintenance record states valve lash was checked 2000kms ago I'll be popping the valve covers off to check it myself. I never trust anything anyone says, lol! I might pop the whole cover off and get those bearings while I'm at it. Rotors are at least 10-14 days away still unfortunately so I have some time to go through everything thoroughly. This is helping me get to know this little lady also which is what I need to do when traveling. Ain't nobody gonna come and fix it for me, lol!

I'm loving all the amazing threads on here for the 640. Lots of stuff I've already applied to the bike just because that's the way I do things, but a lot of great info on specifics. Kudos to Creeper and everyone else who's done up maintenance threads!

If anyone else has anything that they feel is a must-do at 40k just lemme know and I'll see if it needs doing.
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Old 04-06-2015, 10:45 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaptinkaos View Post
Mine is super clean, but I'm gonna pull it out tonight and check which jet is in it and make sure the float is fine.
Replace the float needle if it has a witness line evident under magnification where it has been contacting the seat. Replace the needle seat and cold start enrichment feed pipe o-rings if they are shrunken/hardened/deformed/cracked/otherwise damaged. With the stock exhaust, snorkel and airbox lid in place, set the float height to 14.7mm with a float height setting tool before the float bowl goes back on.

How many miles are there on the carburetor?
Quote:
I've done the needle clip mod now, drilled the vac holes in the slide and set the mixture to 2 turns.
What is a needle clip mod?

Slide guide wear is pretty much proportional to lift hole area, so drilling the slide will dramatically increase slide guide, emulsion tube and slide wear.

Some people do believe that drilling the slide improves performance. I'm not convinced of this, as I had an '07 KTM 640 Adventure R on the dyno a while ago that gained ~1 hp from 5.5K to red line simply by going from the double-hole KTM slide to the single hole late DR650 slide. Gains were also made across the entire range at 1/4 opening while the mixture essentially stayed the same, with a max gain in torque of 1.4 ft-lbs at 3K rpm. There were gains across the board at 1/8 opening, with a max gain in torque of 2.6 ft-lbs at 2K rpm, along with the usable rev range extended from 3.4K to 5K rpm. There were also gains across the board at 1/16 opening, with a max gain in torque of 1.2 ft-lbs at 2.5K rpm, along with the usable rev range extended from 2.5K to 3K rpm.

Idle mixture adjustment procedure if gas analysis is not available:

Coming from the lean side, adjust the fuel screw so that the strongest idle is achieved. You will notice there is a threshold where it becomes rich enough (enough turns out) to run strongest, beyond which no change is noticed. Adjust the idle mixture screw ~1/8-1/4 turn out from this threshold. Adjust the idle speed back to 1400 50 rpm (as it is likely to have changed).

Leave the mixture to the leaner side of these settings if the bike will be seeing altitudes much higher than the one it was set at. Set to the richer side if you would like the engine to idle well earlier during warm up.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 04-06-2015, 11:07 PM   #10
kaptinkaos OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motolab View Post
Replace the float needle if it has a witness line evident under magnification where it has been contacting the seat. Replace the needle seat and cold start enrichment feed pipe o-rings if they are shrunken/hardened/deformed/cracked/otherwise damaged. With the stock exhaust, snorkel and airbox lid in place, set the float height to 14.7mm with a float height setting tool before the float bowl goes back on.

How many miles are there on the carburetor?What is a needle clip mod?

Slide guide wear is pretty much proportional to lift hole area, so drilling the slide will dramatically increase slide guide, emulsion tube and slide wear.

Some people do believe that drilling the slide improves performance. I'm not convinced of this, as I had an '07 KTM 640 Adventure R on the dyno a while ago that gained ~1 hp from 5.5K to red line simply by going from the double-hole KTM slide to the single hole late DR650 slide. Gains were also made across the entire range at 1/4 opening while the mixture essentially stayed the same, with a max gain in torque of 1.4 ft-lbs at 3K rpm. There were gains across the board at 1/8 opening, with a max gain in torque of 2.6 ft-lbs at 2K rpm, along with the usable rev range extended from 3.4K to 5K rpm. There were also gains across the board at 1/16 opening, with a max gain in torque of 1.2 ft-lbs at 2.5K rpm, along with the usable rev range extended from 2.5K to 3K rpm.

Idle mixture adjustment procedure if gas analysis is not available:

Coming from the lean side, adjust the fuel screw so that the strongest idle is achieved. You will notice there is a threshold where it becomes rich enough (enough turns out) to run strongest, beyond which no change is noticed. Adjust the idle mixture screw ~1/8-1/4 turn out from this threshold. Adjust the idle speed back to 1400 50 rpm (as it is likely to have changed).

Leave the mixture to the leaner side of these settings if the bike will be seeing altitudes much higher than the one it was set at. Set to the richer side if you would like the engine to idle well earlier during warm up.

Regards,

Derek
No witness line, but the tip has a side that is shiny indicating wear. It's def getting replaced as is the washer. I just moved the clip to 4rth position from the third. Haven't had a chance to ride it yet as it's in a million pieces. I don't want to change too many things until I have it rideable because I'll never be able to narrow down the issue(s) if I change a whole bunch of things. All o-rings look good. Stock exhaust (so nice and quiet!), but the PO hacked the snorkel and opened the airbox. I'll close it back up and put some uni 1" hole filters into the piece of plastic I rivet on. I thought about just replacing the airbox, but they are spendy.

40,000kms on that carb as far as I know. Looks to be the original. Super clean inside. Slides are cheap, if I run into a wear issue I can replace it easily. I'll have a spare in my parts kit anyway so I'll run this for a while and put a stock one in to see the difference. I'm not looking for hp increase, just throttle response increase. Also, I'm hoping it helps the slide react better when in the rough stuff. I'll look into the DR650 slide too though.... Have a linky to a thread or a part #?

I need to jet the bike for my altitude before I can adjust mixture, but I'm headed down that track. When I find out what jet is in this carb (been sick, still haven't pulled the carb completely out) I'll go from there. Plug is light tan (too light) which tells me it's running lean. From what I've read these bikes came from the factory jetted too lean and the fact that the airbox was opened and the carb prob not rejetted will be why it's so lean. I'll be riding mostly above 3000 ft, but in traveling that's going to be anywhere from below sea level to 11,000ft. Trying to stay as close to stock as I can and the really high elevation stuff will only be short term. We'll see how well it works. Those elevation extremes is why I haven't given the FCR mod more thought. I love the FCR on my 450, but it's just too restrictive for altitude. All carbs are really, but I'll still take it over EFI for simplicity to fix on the go. It'll be set a tiny bit on the leaner side as I will ride around home at 3000-6000ft, but the PO did have a mixture screw installed that's adjustable by hand. Finding, by trial and error, the right jet will be the biggest PITA.

Cheers and thanks man!
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Old 04-07-2015, 01:15 PM   #11
clintnz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaptinkaos View Post
Yep, water pump rebuild is on the list while it's apart. Imp, gasket, seals and shaft is all a guy really needs, correct? .
Also the 2 little bearings, they are a common size, only a few $ each, get them at your local bearing shop rather than KTM. I doubt you'd need an impeller.

Definitely do at least the inlet cam follower roller, it's a known failure point, often at 40-60K km. I've settled on doing the water pump, both the cam follower rollers & the cam bearings every 40K km. The cam shaft bearings aren't quite as critical I think but they are cheap common sizes so why not. Then you should be good for another 40K km with no major motor work.

Cheers
Clint
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Old 04-07-2015, 09:11 PM   #12
kaptinkaos OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clintnz View Post
Also the 2 little bearings, they are a common size, only a few $ each, get them at your local bearing shop rather than KTM. I doubt you'd need an impeller.

Definitely do at least the inlet cam follower roller, it's a known failure point, often at 40-60K km. I've settled on doing the water pump, both the cam follower rollers & the cam bearings every 40K km. The cam shaft bearings aren't quite as critical I think but they are cheap common sizes so why not. Then you should be good for another 40K km with no major motor work.

Cheers
Clint
Do you mean the rocker arm shaft? I have rocker arm bearings on the way, but until I pull the rocker shafts out I'm not going to get them. They're $100+ a pop, lol! If they show decent wear then yes, I'll replace them, but if still shiny and in shape I'll leave them be. All water pump parts are on the way also. I can get the cam bearings from a local driveline shop and save myself a few bucks. I think it's actually the same size bearing as a Chev 350 damper shaft, lol! The needle bearing might be a bit more difficult to find, but I know some places to check.

I'll replace the impeller anyway as I've had a bad experience with a non-metal impeller before. It's cheap insurance for 40K worth of riding. Had the carb apart tonight too. Jetted with a 160 which should actually make it run rich at my 3500ft altitude... I'm a dummy and didn't count turns on the mixture screw that the PO had it set at before I set it to 2 turns. He was riding much lower than I do too, 1000-1500ft. I'll leave it be for now, but I have a 157.5 and a 155 coming. It's fairly easy to get to and I can change it out during my tuning process. I'll probably leave it at 160 for traveling due to knowing I'll be riding some at sea level and lean it out a bit if I'm just weekend warrioring it in the mountains. Jetting is a woe I am familiar with... the 450 is picky, :)

Finished wiring in some lights. Still no covers so they are both basically just spots with a 10 degree spread, but for the time being I can't ride it anyway... Got one of the rotors in early and they ordered the wrong side... Sent me a right side instead of a left side... Derp!

Switch on the dash for the Halos. Love these little weatherproof switches.


Halos for soft light while setting up camp, working in the dark, etc



One light:


Two lights:


As you can see it's a VAST improvement over the stock lights. There's a mantra in the desert: "Your light can never be too bright" and "Two is one, one is none". I never "plan" to ride at night and if I'm anywhere near civilization I HATE riding at night (although I love pounding through the desert at night on the 450...), but I always seem to end up riding after dark at some point. This was a very cheap and easy mod with many pluses which I'm sure will pay me dividends in the future when I need more light. I still carry a super bright headlamp everywhere just in case, lol... Shit happens when you're in the middle of nowhere that just doesn't happen anywhere else.
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Old 04-07-2015, 09:31 PM   #13
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaptinkaos View Post
No witness line, but the tip has a side that is shiny indicating wear. It's def getting replaced as is the washer.
I don't know of any washer that is associated with the float needle.
Quote:
I just moved the clip to 4rth position from the third.
Aha.
Quote:
All o-rings look good.
Glad to hear.
Quote:
Stock exhaust (so nice and quiet!), but the PO hacked the snorkel and opened the airbox.
Are you sure it's hacked instead of the snorkel just being removed? Sometimes the stock opening the snorkel fits into looks irregular enough to appear hacked.
Quote:
I'll close it back up and put some uni 1" hole filters into the piece of plastic I rivet on.
I think it will be difficult to match the stock flow that way.
Quote:
I thought about just replacing the airbox, but they are spendy.
Used ones on Ebay don't look too bad.
Quote:
40,000kms on that carb as far as I know.
At 40K kms, the slide guide, emulsion tube, slide, and perhaps jet needle are likely to be worn out (unless someone already replaced these parts).

There are six depressions in the face of the slide guide. Four of these are round. If any of the round ones are no longer visible, there is no need to look any further, the slide guide and emulsion tube are worn out. There are two more depressions that look like little parallelograms concentric to the bore adjacent to where the slide bottoms. These depressions are .020" (.51 mm) deep when the slide guide is new. Emulsion tube wear sets in somewhere around .010" (.25 mm) depth, and causes overly rich mixtures in the lower portion of the rpm range (see http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=298 & http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=299 vs.http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=300 & http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=301. How deep are these depressions now?

Also check the slide for vertical grooving on the downstream side (see http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=302 vs. http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/view?itemid=304).
Quote:
I'm not looking for hp increase, just throttle response increase.
I'm not sure where an improvement in throttle response would come from if not from an increase in power.
Quote:
Also, I'm hoping it helps the slide react better when in the rough stuff.
I'm not sure I follow.
Quote:
I'll look into the DR650 slide too though.... Have a linky to a thread or a part #?
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528038, 13501-32E00.
Quote:
I need to jet the bike for my altitude before I can adjust mixture, but I'm headed down that track.
Jetting should not need to be modified from what works elsewhere, save the pilot jet size. How many turns out the fuel screw ends up via the procedure I posted will help determine what to do with the pilot jet size.
Quote:
Plug is light tan (too light) which tells me it's running lean.
Plug color isn't the most reliable indicator. Not only does it come from an amalgam of throttle positions and rpm, but today's fuels don't color the plug that much at the correct mixture.
Quote:
From what I've read these bikes came from the factory jetted too lean and the fact that the airbox was opened and the carb prob not rejetted will be why it's so lean.
The stock jetting is correct for a stock bike save the needle clip position and fuel screw adjustment.
Quote:
Those elevation extremes is why I haven't given the FCR mod more thought.
Makes sense. The BST will compensate quite well except for at the very bottom, while the FCR will not compensate at all.
Quote:
I love the FCR on my 450, but it's just too restrictive for altitude. All carbs are really, but I'll still take it over EFI for simplicity to fix on the go.
Where do you get the idea that the FCR is restrictive or that all carburetors are restrictive when compared to EFI? Can't either one be constructed to flow whatever desired CFM?
Quote:
It'll be set a tiny bit on the leaner side as I will ride around home at 3000-6000ft, but the PO did have a mixture screw installed that's adjustable by hand.
What brand is the fuel screw?
Quote:
Finding, by trial and error, the right jet will be the biggest PITA.
Like I said the fuel screw adjustment will give guidance about what pilot jet to select.
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Cheers and thanks man!
You're welcome!

Regards,

Derek
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Old 04-07-2015, 10:00 PM   #14
kaptinkaos OP
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Originally Posted by motolab View Post
I don't know of any washer that is associated with the float needle. In my tired listlessness I read carb needle... No line on the float needle.

Are you sure it's hacked instead of the snorkel just being removed? I'll get a pic tomorrow. I assume it's hacked cause the entire top of the airbox is open, lol!

At 40K kms, the slide guide, emulsion tube, slide, and perhaps jet needle are likely to be worn out (unless someone already replaced these parts). Yes, new jet needle coming and the washer for that, lol! Sorry for the confusion. Emulsion tube? You mean needle jet? (aka where the needle sits when closed throttle)

There are six depressions in the face of the slide guide. How deep are these depressions now? - Not sure, will have to pull carb again and look. I have a slide coming, but not a guide. I can have that sent as well if it's worn.

I'm not sure where an improvement in throttle response would come from if not from an increase in power. I'm not sure I follow. From less friction in the system? Horsepower isn't always the reason throttle response is better. Mechanical friction and/or wear in the system (ie. slide, guide etc) is what I'm trying to defeat.

Jetting should not need to be modified from what works elsewhere, save the pilot jet size. How many turns out the fuel screw ends up via the procedure I posted will help determine what to do with the pilot jet size.Plug color isn't the most reliable indicator. 10-4 It has a 160 in it, but I have a couple coming to tinker with if need be. Jets are cheap.

The BST will compensate quite well except for at the very bottom, while the FCR will not compensate at all. Where do you get the idea that the FCR is restrictive or that all carburetors are restrictive when compared to EFI? I don't want to rejet for altitude while I'm traveling, lol! That's the restriction.

Can't either one be constructed to flow whatever desired CFM?What brand is the fuel screw? I have no idea.

Like I said the fuel screw adjustment will give guidance about what pilot jet to select.You're welcome!

Regards,

Derek
Cheers and thanks man! It's a fun new puzzle to get to know and I feel spoilt only dealing with FCR's the last few years. The 990 was EFI so it was more about a laptop and mapping than anything else, ha!
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Old 04-07-2015, 10:14 PM   #15
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Edit: No, that's not a hairnet, lol! I run a skin on all of my foam filters. Extends the life of them by a long ways when riding in dusty conditions. This isn't the right skin for this filter, but as long as you don't pinch the skin under the filter when mounting it and it's basically just laid on top it helps to keep the big particles out of the foam and doesn't really restrict anything. Super easy to clean up with soap and water when it gets caked up.

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