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Old 10-24-2010, 03:24 PM   #1651
Zecatfish
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Arkansas USA
Oddometer: 7,919
Quote:
Originally Posted by truck6driver
Well I looked at the rear swing arm and saw the swing arm bolt goes through the engine cases so I dismissed a swap out there. A few pages back someone posted up a nice list of matching bearing front ends to bolt on. Was looking for a KLX650 front end as it has the speedo and also the DR350 front end.

If you wanted another front end you can ditch the stock speedo and install a Vapor TrailTech and run any front end you want.

Ray
Been there and done that on the front end.

Here is my XT550 and XT350.
The 550 has a 41mm Showa Front end from an XR350. The rear is a YZ465 Shock. Its a wheelie machine and sucks at hillclimbs.

Going through the case a normal thing.
The Pivot bolt goes though the case on lots of engines. XT550, XT250, YZ250, YZ490, ATK 250/260/605. So thats not a deal breaker.
I was down at the shop looking at my YZ490 chassis. The rear top mount is very similar position as the XT. The issue I could see is that resevoir (sp) on the YZ shock will not allow the right snorkel tube to be used. Then there MIGHT be an issue with the resevoir hitting the exhaust.

Another option might be the swingarm and shock from a TT600, I'll have to rebuild the Works Performance Shock for it. Then maybe the YZ490 front end.

Then I think I can get a TT350 and it would cure the whole issue because its got better suspension.
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Old 10-24-2010, 04:10 PM   #1652
spokexx
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Well congrats Zecatfish. The XT is damn reliable, simple, and yes.. CHEAP!! I just rode my 89 XT350 in yet another dual sport event today. 90 miles of central Jersey pine barrens with the Meteor motorcycle club. And I gotta say, my ole XT ran great again. This was the first hard ride since putting 80w gear oil into the forks, adding 1.5" to the spring pre-load spacer and pumping about 15psi into each fork and it never once bottomed out in the sand whoops. If youve ever ridden the Jersey pines, you know how demanding the sand whoops are. The rear shock? Yeah it bottomed a few times but the front was very well behaved. My bike now has 23,570 miles on it and I paid $1600 for it 3 years ago. Is the bike a power monster? No, but it makes great torque from off-idle to about 4500rpm. So far, just this year ive ridden it in 5 dual sport rides (about 100 miles each in one day) and a classic MX race. Im racing it in another classic MX race in 2 weekends.
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Old 10-28-2010, 08:22 PM   #1653
Psycho18th
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjm1219
I got a few questions

Anyone have these cheap handguards off of ebay?
How are they? install correctly? I keep breaking clutch pearches and should probably get some handguards. I am getting good at riding without a clutch though, yikes.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-Y...Q5fAccessories

My bike takes about 20 to 30 mintures of riding to warm up to run correctly with the choke pushed in. Is this normal? Rides ok with choke out a bit before fully warmed up but stalls if I push it in.


What are my options for a muffler with a spark arrestor, that is cheap? I don't have a arrestor now and don't want to get a ticket from the forest ranger.

I have a theme with this bike. It is "cheap"
You can probably find a stock muffler/spark arrestor on ebay if you keep checking. In my humble opinion all the aftermarket options are just too loud for the woods.

When you say the spark arrestor is missing, do you mean the insert into the stock muffler? If that's pulled out and you haven't richened up the jetting, you're probably running extra lean.

For the warm up, that's pretty normal with the stock settings. First step is to open up the fuel screw about 2 full turns. It's located in front of the foat bowl. Depending on the year, it may be hidden under a brass plug that you'll need to drill out. You have to use a very short flat head screw-driver on it, but starting with 2 turns out should do the trick to help starting and speed up the warmup time.

Next step is to shim the needles, as referenced in other posts in the thread.

Hope that helps,
Psycho
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Old 10-29-2010, 07:15 AM   #1654
spokexx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjm1219
My bike takes about 20 to 30 mintures of riding to warm up to run correctly with the choke pushed in. Is this normal? Rides ok with choke out a bit before fully warmed up but stalls if I push it in.
that seems wayyyy too long for a warmup, even stock carb settings. You might have a partially clogged pilot jet. I changed mine to a larger one, up 2 sizes and turned out the idle mixture screw a half turn or so, and the bike warms up in about 2 mins. Sometimes I dont even need the choke. If you cant find a larger pilot jet, you can drill out the stock one a VERY small amount. Find a set of jewlers drill bits or similar and use the next step up after the one that doesnt push through. Or, get a sewing needle that wont quite barely fit through the jet hole and use it to ream the hole slightly larger. The stock pilot jets are way too lean on these bikes.
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Old 10-29-2010, 07:21 AM   #1655
JensEskildsen
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If you can start the bike without choke, from cold, its running too rich....

Anyhoot...

Clean the carb and take it from there.

JensEskildsen screwed with this post 10-30-2010 at 10:20 AM
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Old 10-29-2010, 04:28 PM   #1656
anarxias
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primary carb slide

hi guys
I was wondering if you know the distance between the slide and the carb body (shown in red rectangle in the picture).I want to compare my distance with yours to determine the idle position.
thanks
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Old 10-29-2010, 04:39 PM   #1657
anarxias
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i have a problem in attaching a photo
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Old 10-29-2010, 06:19 PM   #1658
Grreatdog
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You can't attach a picture. But it on Photobucket or somewhere like that and link to it.
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Old 11-01-2010, 08:30 AM   #1659
Zecatfish
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Location: Arkansas USA
Oddometer: 7,919
Musings...

I was looking at the TT600 chassis I got.
Its got a Works Performance Shock on it, though it needs rebuilt. Its 1/2" longer than a TT350 shock, but it mounts at the same angle as the XT350 shock and in a similar location on the frame.
I'm thinking that it might be the best route to go, to make an XT350 more suitable for a cross country bike.
Then match the increase in the rear with the a YZ490 (I got it already) frontend. That would give the XT a dual piston front brake caliper and stiffer forks that do not feel like pogo sticks in the higher speed rough.
Last ride I could literally see the front wheel deflection from the flex in the forks when fully compressed over some minor berms.
So what do you all think about this idea?
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http://home.windstream.net/catfish/GPS


The Early Bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese.
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Old 11-01-2010, 09:40 AM   #1660
SkidMarx
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Location: Ortonville, MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zecatfish
I was looking at the TT600 chassis I got.
Its got a Works Performance Shock on it, though it needs rebuilt. Its 1/2" longer than a TT350 shock, but it mounts at the same angle as the XT350 shock and in a similar location on the frame.
I'm thinking that it might be the best route to go, to make an XT350 more suitable for a cross country bike.
Then match the increase in the rear with the a YZ490 (I got it already) frontend. That would give the XT a dual piston front brake caliper and stiffer forks that do not feel like pogo sticks in the higher speed rough.
Last ride I could literally see the front wheel deflection from the flex in the forks when fully compressed over some minor berms.
So what do you all think about this idea?
Sound like you have the bits and pieces to take a stab at it.
I say go for it. as long as you don't start cutting and welding, what's the harm?
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Old 11-01-2010, 11:27 AM   #1661
truck6driver
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Whats wrong with cutting and welding?

Improvise, adapt, overcome!!

Ray
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Old 11-01-2010, 12:31 PM   #1662
Zecatfish
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Location: Arkansas USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truck6driver
Whats wrong with cutting and welding?

Improvise, adapt, overcome!!

Ray

I'm not welding or cutting on the frame. My welding skills leaves ALOT to be desired.
One concern I have is the actual strength of the frame itself. With real spenders on the little bike I'm kinda curious if the frame would turn into a pretzel.
The parts bike frame has had the VIN ground off it. I did call the sheriff out and he took a few notes and seemed disinterested in a partially disassemble 80's dirt bike and I never heard another word so I guess its going to live of my place till I get the tired of it.

The bike needs more seat foam, it is worse than a KTM 640 seat. So that could help the ergos of the smallish frame and I'm thinking that maybe it needs pegs lowered 1/2" once its setting up in the air.
then a high bend bar to make it comfortable for standing and riding.
I'm planning on leaving the exhaust stock because its nice and quiet. Sometimes I end up places I might not should be and would rather not have the bbrraaappp give me away.
Plus it seems from the posts here that a free flowing muffler kills the low end torque of the engine.

Just a few thoughts.
Thanks for the opinions.
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Google Earth GPS Howto (still a work in progress) use USGS TOPO Maps to layout trails.
http://home.windstream.net/catfish/GPS


The Early Bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese.
https://sites.google.com/site/ozarkadventuretours/

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Old 11-01-2010, 02:17 PM   #1663
Grreatdog
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Keep your eyes on eBay for a Supertrapp EAR model. It saves probably ten pounds, flows better than stock and is not much louder up to six or seven disks. But it does require rejetting. Of course the stock carb requires rejetting with the stock exhaust anyway so no big deal there. They also still sell the IDS2 and quiet core for XT350's. I have no idea how loud they are. But I assume you can still tune them.
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Old 11-01-2010, 02:27 PM   #1664
cjm1219
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Location: Medford Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Psycho18th
You can probably find a stock muffler/spark arrestor on ebay if you keep checking. In my humble opinion all the aftermarket options are just too loud for the woods.

When you say the spark arrestor is missing, do you mean the insert into the stock muffler? If that's pulled out and you haven't richened up the jetting, you're probably running extra lean.
Psycho
Thanks for the info....the spark arrestor isn't missing. It just the pipe that came on the bike doesn't have one.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAH...Q5fAccessories
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Old 11-02-2010, 11:00 AM   #1665
SkidMarx
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Location: Ortonville, MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zecatfish
One concern I have is the actual strength of the frame itself. With real spenders on the little bike I'm kinda curious if the frame would turn into a pretzel.
That was always my concern too. The TT350 has a lower frame cradle that I believe is bolted on. Even something like that would help.
As Grreatdog said, the supertrapp EAR model works well and isn't too loud with 6 disks. I'd say torque and HP was better with that setup.
I hear the IDS2 is pretty loud without the quiet core and you would have to get that separately by all accounts.
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