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Old 10-13-2008, 02:09 PM   #196
jegrmajstr
thumper tourer
 
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Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Slovenia, Europe
Oddometer: 135
Quote:
Originally Posted by busta3396
Original rack? all I have is a leather bag that is strapped down by a plastic holder. Is that all i need to put a case on top? By the way does Hepco & Becker ship to USA? thanks
These are pics of an original XT 350 rack with indicator mounts, but some models were sold without it or it was dumped by MX-ambitious riders:
http://img224.imageshack.us/my.php?i...lika023rv4.jpg

http://img73.imageshack.us/my.php?image=slika022ox6.jpg

Contact your Yamaha dealer for it (parts number 55V-24830-20) or look on ebay for it. For Hepco & Becker I don't know, try emailing them.


PS: The bike on pics is my bike when I bought it, a bit of a change huh
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Old 10-13-2008, 02:20 PM   #197
wickedsprint
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I seriously miss my 96'. I got it shortly after I turned 16 and rode that thing absolutely everywhere..interstates with 85mph traffic..the woods..neighborhoods..and pretty much treated the throttle like a light switch for over 11k miles before I sold it to the dealer. I wish they still made more air cooled 350cc bikes.
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Old 10-13-2008, 02:49 PM   #198
J-Ball
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Location: Llano County, TEXAS
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So I've read this thread through and have got lots of great info for the ole XT. There seems to be some conflicting info on carb mods. I know very little about working on a carb other than mine needs something! Mine stutters and cuts out from say half throttle to 3/4 throttle--slow speed and wide open seems fine. It's almost like its starving for gas. It ran fine for years, sat for a while, intake boots and air filter deteriorated....now has new boots, cleaned carb, new air filter and runs like poop.

Can anyone help to compile a good jumping off point for a noob carb mechanic like myself to start modding this carb. I'd like to drill the air box and re-jet etc to make this thing run like it should. Also, after sitting a while my carb leaks gas so I'd like to find a kit to replace all the rubber parts in the carb.

1. Are there any good reads on basic carb how to's?
2. Is there a general consensus on which jets etc to use ( 130 primary, 120 secondary??)
3. Are there carb rebuild kits availible with all the rubber parts?
4. Other carb trickery that I'm missing?

Any help would be appreciated.

1999 XT350 living in central TX at about 6000 feet above sea level.

I LOVE this bike, what a great all-rounder. Can't wait to get her running better.
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Old 10-13-2008, 04:30 PM   #199
busta3396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jegrmajstr
These are pics of an original XT 350 rack with indicator mounts, but some models were sold without it or it was dumped by MX-ambitious riders:
http://img224.imageshack.us/my.php?i...lika023rv4.jpg

http://img73.imageshack.us/my.php?image=slika022ox6.jpg

Contact your Yamaha dealer for it (parts number 55V-24830-20) or look on ebay for it. For Hepco & Becker I don't know, try emailing them.


PS: The bike on pics is my bike when I bought it, a bit of a change huh
Wow i have never seen that rack, that is exactly want i want. It is not on my bike, 94 xt350, I have checked the parts diagrams and have been unable to find it, I searched the product number on ebay and only 1 result shows up and its a company from europe that is selling it. I am getting the feeling that this rack was only sold in europe. Hopefully I can get a hold of it here in the us.

thanks
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Old 10-13-2008, 04:45 PM   #200
busta3396
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interesting, there appears to be two different type of seats. I have the one with a strap and a small bag behind, I guess you have the one that is a bit shorter, no strap on the seat, and a small rack on the back. I am beginning to think I may have to change my rear fender as well, but im not sure, Im gonna have to look into this.
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Old 10-13-2008, 06:19 PM   #201
spokexx
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check out this battery....
http://www.zbattery.com/Universal-12...y?leadsource=6

would this work? it only has to run the brake and turn signals but obviously it would have to handle the electrical system constantly putting a charge on it. Would i have to fear another explosion? It's really light compared to the stock battery and only $13 !!!!
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Old 10-13-2008, 06:31 PM   #202
busta3396
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it seems the australia model xt 350 has a completely different seat, rear fender, and includes a rear luggage rack, all other xt 350s are like mine, according to a yamaha parts pdf I am looking at, interesting, but unfortnantly i wont be able to use that rack unless I change my fender, seat, etc.
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Old 10-14-2008, 07:01 AM   #203
nails1
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Location: New Mexico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spokexx
check out this battery....
http://www.zbattery.com/Universal-12...y?leadsource=6

would this work? it only has to run the brake and turn signals but obviously it would have to handle the electrical system constantly putting a charge on it. Would i have to fear another explosion? It's really light compared to the stock battery and only $13 !!!!
That's EXACTLY what I've been looking for! Yes, I do believe this would work swell.
I had a old post about this, I think on this forum. I asked about just using a Ryobi drill battery, but a couple gurus said that it just wouldn't work (they couldn't really say why) -- gotta be lead-acid.
At work, I came on a bunch of old computer backup units. I raped about 20 of them, but none of the batteries would hold a charge (why they were being recycled, I reckon). Besides security systems and computer UPS, I was looking for lead-acid batteries in emergency lights.
THANKS!
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Old 10-14-2008, 07:29 AM   #204
Grreatdog
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Location: Annapolis, MD
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0.8 amps isn't much of a battery. Think about what your brake and turn signals actually use. I used something more in this range:

http://www.interstatebatteries.com/e...%7C%7CRank%7C1

It is still less than four pounds but it has enough power to work the turn signal flasher and brake light relay properly. Even this guy might have enough capacity at two pounds:

http://www.interstatebatteries.com/e...%7C%7CRank%7C1
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Old 10-14-2008, 07:45 AM   #205
stteve
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Joined: Mar 2005
Location: Below sealevel
Oddometer: 344
Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Ball
So I've read this thread through and have got lots of great info for the ole XT. There seems to be some conflicting info on carb mods. I know very little about working on a carb other than mine needs something! Mine stutters and cuts out from say half throttle to 3/4 throttle--slow speed and wide open seems fine. It's almost like its starving for gas. It ran fine for years, sat for a while, intake boots and air filter deteriorated....now has new boots, cleaned carb, new air filter and runs like poop.

Can anyone help to compile a good jumping off point for a noob carb mechanic like myself to start modding this carb. I'd like to drill the air box and re-jet etc to make this thing run like it should. Also, after sitting a while my carb leaks gas so I'd like to find a kit to replace all the rubber parts in the carb.

1. Are there any good reads on basic carb how to's?
2. Is there a general consensus on which jets etc to use ( 130 primary, 120 secondary??)
3. Are there carb rebuild kits availible with all the rubber parts?
4. Other carb trickery that I'm missing?

Any help would be appreciated.

1999 XT350 living in central TX at about 6000 feet above sea level.

I LOVE this bike, what a great all-rounder. Can't wait to get her running better.
Maybe your secondary carb (which is a CV) is leaking? Just open the cap and check the rubber thing that becomes visible for leaks.

I had an XT350 for 13 years, and this happend to me after i parked it for a while.

Also, you may want to check www.xt350.de if you read German, or just post in English .. they will understand
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Old 10-14-2008, 08:17 AM   #206
Gale B.T.
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Location: Pagosa Springs, CO.
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Watching wife on XT 350 crash, SICKENING!!

Ok, all you XT350 riders, I am sharing this with you for you ride 'em and you know them as I thought I did.

Bike is a 89 XT350 in super nice shape. All parts in very good to excellent shape, serviced regularly,(forks, steering head bearings, brakes) checked regularly and ridden easily. Wife's bike.

This wife/bike have about a thousand easy road miles and maybe more than that on easy dirt, the bike has always preformed flawless till last week. Total mileage on bike 14
,235.

Bike checked, tire pressure check to 30 PSI for combo tarmat (30) miles and then dirt(75) miles and then 45 miles home on tarmat. Check bike over at gas up just before the last 45 home. All looks/seems well. Bike has been awesome.

About 10 miles from home, running between 50-55 MPH, going over a very small hill, then down easy hill with gentle right sweeper ahead. I am on my 640 Adv r about 10 m behind when I notice she is drifting towards the left and the guard rail, about the same time I hear her scream , "I cannot make it turn" when I then noticed the front wheel vibrating rapidly like she had an immediate flat,NOT SO, but the vibrating tire and what ever else ,the bike moved towards the guard rail when she performed a get off, perfect slide into second base, except towards the guard rail.

Bike hits guard rail, wife slides under and come out with only a few bruises and chip break on base of right thumb. The ATGATT works totally, again and again.

NEVER have I seen this happen,, NEVER has it ever happend to me with hundred of thousand of bike miles.

So GENTLEMEN, help out here with some reasons why. I have now gone over everything and cannot find anything broken, bent , out of torque, alignment, etc. I will next remove things individually :wheel, axel, bearings, forks, brake calipers, etc looking for some answers.

What forces/problems am I overlooking??? What would have or could have created this surprise???

Thanks you very much ahead of time for your info.

gale, pagosa springs, co.

PS any one out there have or know where I can get air box for the above, this one is now cracked bad:(
gale
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Old 10-14-2008, 08:26 AM   #207
busta3396
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that is a real mystery, mabey you should ride it yourself, I have seen an airbox recently on ebay, check that ou.
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Old 10-14-2008, 08:29 AM   #208
nails1
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Location: New Mexico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grreatdog
That's even more exactlier what I've been looking for.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grreatdog
Not sure where that would fit.

THANKS!
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Old 10-14-2008, 09:11 AM   #209
J-Ball
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Eek

Thanks Stteve,

I'll pull it apart and check the diaphram your talking about. Are you thinking this is the source of the poor performance or the gas leak? Sorry, I know nothing about carbs. I'd like to order the appropriate rubber parts to fix the gas leak and new jets etc and do all the work at once.

Does anyone know if the Climer Manual shows how to dis/re-asemble the carb and all of it's various functions?

Would the 130 Primary 120 Secondary be a good place to start the modding along with some holes drilled in the airbox, a Uni filter and major cleaning of carb?

Gail.... wow, that's insane. Have you ridden it (slow at first obviously) to see how it's acting? Did the steering lock? Did it tank slap? Wheel weights come off or wheel bearing thow? Did she hit something on the road that started the vibrations? Thats scary.
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Old 10-14-2008, 09:16 AM   #210
mudgepondexpress
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Location: Spokane, WA
Oddometer: 1,144
How about a loose steering head. My Suzuki will do the same thing on occasion and though there is no "slop" in the head, it does move quite freely. I know if I tighten it just a hair the osculation will stop.

Another option is that the head bearings have "worn in" to each other. An old CB450 I picked up cheap had that. The bearings wore into the cups so the steering was "notchy". It alwasy wanted to center a ball in the divots of the race...thus if you were trying to go around a corner that was between the divots it would cause you to fight the bars and induce a wobble.

Good luck...hope she wants to get back on it and doesn't become afraid of riding.

Kenny
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