The XT350 thread

[SkidMarx]

Originally Posted by Brypoint

Yah I can probably get to them with a hammer or possibly vice grips if the allen wrenches don't hold. I got the boots locally $69 and 61$ for the two and $7 for the O-rings. You were definetly right about them being cheaper online. But I gotta ride doggonit!

I don't recall having a problem getting mine off, and they had been on for 14 years. A light tap with a hammer won't hurt, but as long as you use the correct size allen, and it's in all the way they should come right out.
If you have a heat gun, it wouldn't hurt to heat them up a bit to release any thread locker if there is any(I don't recall).
The prices aren't bad once you figure in the shipping.

[Brypoint]

Originally Posted by InfiniteMiles

I fixed my weather cracked boots with liquid rubber, you can get it at home depot for 6-7 bucks a tube.
I spreads on like paint but dries to rubber.

This is an awesome idea, sadly its too late for my secoundary boot as I actually tore it to pieces. In the future though it will be good to use to maybe seal and protect them from leaking or drying out again. I will never know if my boots were leaking cause I'm putting new ones, but something was going on because it wouldnt idle and backfired a bit on deceleration.

[Brypoint]

I just had a thought where is the oil drain plug? I'm sure it must be under the skid plate somewhere but it's an oily mess down there that I get to cleaning. Think this stuff is good for it or should I look at another oil? Also whats the exact amount it should hold?

[Brypoint]

Sorry all for commondering your forum lol. But just got this bike and pretty excited seeing as I havent had a descent toy in some years. Thanks for being here and helping me out where you can.

[Brypoint]

Yamaha XT350 XT 350 Carburetor Carb Stage 1-3 Jet Kit
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamah...Q5fAccessories

Has anyone tried this kit? Its like 48$ and the ad makes it sound like these guys know what their doing, but i'm a bit skeptical. It would be nice to have everything in one set, needles spacers jets and such.

[Grreatdog]

Originally Posted by Brypoint

I just had a thought where is the oil drain plug? I'm sure it must be under the skid plate somewhere but it's an oily mess down there that I get to cleaning. Think this stuff is good for it or should I look at another oil? Also whats the exact amount it should hold?

No on the oil type. You don't want car oil. Look for diesel engine oil if you can't find motorcycle oil. The high mileage anti friction additives in car oil will not make your clutch happy. You will need to have two quarts on hand. Roughly one and a half for just a dump and fill to almost two for a complete oil and filter service.

IIRC the dump and fill plug is on the left side under the countershaft sprocket. It is convenient because you don't have to get under the bike to do a simple oil change. Then there is also a strainer plug under the engine that should have a skid plate cut out. It is a good idea to clean the screen on that guy once in a while though you don't need to every change. Then there is the filter which is in front of the clutch cover on the right. Loosen the lower bolt and top bolt first to drain the cavity before removing the cover.

Be careful of the o-rings and replace them if they get pinched. All of that is from memory. But I did it like 10,000 times so it should be about right. I did a dump and fill after just about every hard ride because it doesn't hold much and running the pee out of them fries the oil. I did the strainer and filter a couple of times a year when I was piling up miles commuting and once a year when the bike went into semi retirement.

[Grreatdog]

Originally Posted by Brypoint

Yamaha XT350 XT 350 Carburetor Carb Stage 1-3 Jet Kit
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamah...Q5fAccessories

Has anyone tried this kit? Its like 48$ and the ad makes it sound like these guys know what their doing, but i'm a bit skeptical. It would be nice to have everything in one set, needles spacers jets and such.

Main jets are not your big issue. Yes they can stand to go up one size IF you are running a less restrictive pipe and air box. If you are stock then the stock mains are a little lean but work OK.

Shimming up the needles can be done at Home Depot for pennies. Just buy brass washers about the thickness of a normal needle clip height and put them under the needles. The springs can handle it. At least they did on mine for many, many years.

As far as synching the carbs, it isn't really an issue. The synch is simply an adjusting nut that engages the secondary at some point when the throttle is turned. I set mine so the secondary started opening immediately. All you need are eyeballs to figure that one out.

Now if the kit came with the correct pilot jet I would pay the money just for that. That is where the bike really needs help whether stock or modified. But they are not even addressing that in the kit description unless they are also selling you a drill bit for that. That jet needs to replaced not screwed with. The holes are TINY. But you could always buy a drill bit set and try it yourself.

For the air screw, which I believe they are calling idle mixture mod, use your own drill bit to remove the brass plug and set it where it works with your own screwdriver. Turn it all the way in keeping CAREFUL track of the EXACT number of turns. Then go out (or maybe even in) 1/4 turn from stock each time until you are happy. Keep CAREFUL track of your adjustments and results then you can write your own instructions.

I have no idea what the slide mod is. But, if ask me, that is a lot of money for a couple of washers, a couple of drill bits and some instructions. If you drill down far enough you will find the same instructions here and on Thumpertalk under vintage bikes.

And, if you decide to play inside your carb, DO NOT BEND THE FLOAT OUT OF ADJUSTMENT. If that happens you will discover carb hell. In fact, if you successful remove the float bowl without screwing up the float height then get yourself a baseline float height measurement while it is set where it more or less works.

[SkidMarx]

+1 to all of this^^^^^.
Oil qty is 1300cc with or without filter change.
I change my oil frequently also so I use Rotella T. Good, fairly cheap diesel oil.
Buy it by the gallon. Lot's of opinions on oil, but no car oil is generally agreed upon.

The strainer cover is aluminium and easy to strip. Make sure you use the correct size socket and that it is on there good. Mine was a pain the first time I took it of
It doesn't need to be super tight when you replace it.

Don't bother with the jet kit. Grreatdogs post nailed it on that also.
I believe the slide mod is opening up the vacuum hole in the secondary slide. It's a trick carried over from the XT225 IIRC.

[Brypoint]

Ok thx Dogg this is all great advice. I had a feeling the jet kit was too good to be true lol. Any thoughts on skipping the airbox all together and using K&N's on it? I'm hearing the airbox tubes and airbox is like one big bottleneck.

[FlatlanderInVT]

Well after snapping two more bolts while securing the cam caps, I think I fixed that problem. I then immediately created another when trying to tighten up the exhaust cam, as the threads in one of the holes just came out completely (well, there is a tiny bit left at the bottom of the hole, which I know will cause a problem). How easy is it to helicoil those? In fact, I think I ended up pulling out an old helicoil. I've never used a helicoil, so I guess I'm just freaking out that I just dropped $300 into a bike I paid $500 for, and it has gotten progressively more and more out of commission, with another bill yet to come I'm sure. I assume I have to remove the head, which means removing the rusted as fuck headers, which means more snapped bolts and broken pieces. The engine will run like new because it'll be half new when I'm done at this rate.

[Calkins]

Originally Posted by FlatlanderInVT

Well after snapping two more bolts while securing the cam caps, I think I fixed that problem. I then immediately created another when trying to tighten up the exhaust cam, as the threads in one of the holes just came out completely (well, there is a tiny bit left at the bottom of the hole, which I know will cause a problem). How easy is it to helicoil those? In fact, I think I ended up pulling out an old helicoil. I've never used a helicoil, so I guess I'm just freaking out that I just dropped $300 into a bike I paid $500 for, and it has gotten progressively more and more out of commission, with another bill yet to come I'm sure. I assume I have to remove the head, which means removing the rusted as fuck headers, which means more snapped bolts and broken pieces. The engine will run like new because it'll be half new when I'm done at this rate.

No worries man I bought mine for $400, and dumped $1500 into it, and it's still shit!!!

[Grreatdog]

I can tell you guys as someone with an ancient XT200 in the garage and having spent 17 years with my XT350, just break off every damned bolt that is going to break. Then tear down the top end and take the cylinder and head to a good welder to fill and retap all the holes you ruined. It is aluminum and it easy enough to do. Trying to fix broken bolts and stripped holes with the engine on the bike and all in one piece is a waste of time IMO.

[Brypoint]

Well I got her back together, new boots, cleaned shit out, of carb and new plug. She's running but my idle is all over the place. Had it going good at 2k rpm idle, till she got hot and ran to about 4k rpm idle. Lowered her back to 2k but I assume she'll not hold idle without the choke when she's cold. I'll pull the plug and see how she's looking later when it cools down a bit. I have pilot at 3 turns out and im thinking she's rich so maybe 4 or more turns out.

[SkidMarx]

Originally Posted by Brypoint

Well I got her back together, new boots, cleaned shit out, of carb and new plug. She's running but my idle is all over the place. Had it going good at 2k rpm idle, till she got hot and ran to about 4k rpm idle. Lowered her back to 2k but I assume she'll not hold idle without the choke when she's cold. I'll pull the plug and see how she's looking later when it cools down a bit. I have pilot at 3 turns out and im thinking she's rich so maybe 4 or more turns out.

Out on the pilot screw will make it richer.

[SkidMarx]

Originally Posted by FlatlanderInVT

Well after snapping two more bolts while securing the cam caps, I think I fixed that problem. I then immediately created another when trying to tighten up the exhaust cam, as the threads in one of the holes just came out completely (well, there is a tiny bit left at the bottom of the hole, which I know will cause a problem). How easy is it to helicoil those? In fact, I think I ended up pulling out an old helicoil. I've never used a helicoil, so I guess I'm just freaking out that I just dropped $300 into a bike I paid $500 for, and it has gotten progressively more and more out of commission, with another bill yet to come I'm sure. I assume I have to remove the head, which means removing the rusted as fuck headers, which means more snapped bolts and broken pieces. The engine will run like new because it'll be half new when I'm done at this rate.

Remove the head and helicoil all of the cam cap holes along with the exhaust header holes. Use Anti-seize on the exhaust bolts and you won't have to deal with this again. I did the valve cover holes too, but I had to buy some shorter inserts.

What torque are you using on the cam caps? Stripping out the threads isn't that uncommon, but breaking the bolts is.
I guess if some of them were already helicoiled, it might be more likely to break a bolt.

The important part when you use helicoils is the drilling. Make sure you are drilling straight and don't go to deep. I'd use tape on the drill bit as a depth gauge if you don't have anything better. The Al is soft so it doesn't take much. Take your time and be careful.