![]() |
07-15-2011, 10:20 AM
|
#2386 | |
|
A Aventura Continua....
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Portugal
Oddometer: 203
|
Quote:
You have to remove the petcock to clean them Nuno |
|
|
|
07-15-2011, 01:04 PM
|
#2387 |
|
Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Annapolis, MD
Oddometer: 5,931
|
The Euro bikes or later models may be different, but my 1986 XT350 had the exact same petcock as my 1982 XT200. They both had the bowl that unscrews with a screen in it. It later got replaced with one from Clarke.
__________________
KTM 640 LC4E KTM 200 MXC XT200 |
|
|
07-15-2011, 05:00 PM
|
#2388 | |
|
XTique Rider
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Arkansas USA
Oddometer: 7,919
|
Quote:
Correct and Full of Crap... ![]() MY 81 TT250, and XT250 used a 520 chain, the 350 uses the 428 chain. I was planning on replacing it with a 520 when the time came but in the last year I've actually changed my mind. I've put a few thousand miles on it and I have adjusted the chain once in between tire changes. So a 520 is not to large, but I've found that if its a quality 426 chain to be very long lived on the 350 if your not trying to wheelie it at every stop light.
__________________
Google Earth GPS Howto (still a work in progress) use USGS TOPO Maps to layout trails. http://home.windstream.net/catfish/GPS The Early Bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese. https://sites.google.com/site/ozarkadventuretours/ |
|
|
|
07-15-2011, 06:48 PM
|
#2389 |
|
Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Annapolis, MD
Oddometer: 5,931
|
I agree with Z. It all depends on how you ride the bike as to whether or not a 428 chain is OK. When I was commuting I could wrack up a lot of miles on one without ever needing to tighten the chain.
But then one good offroad ride and the chain would be completely shot. However you have to remember that I rode mine like a dirt bike plus it was uncorked and on real knobbies. And most of my riding back then was mud, beach sand and loam which meant lots of clutch abuse. And a 428 chain was just not up to that combination. If I had known about being able to convert it back then I would have. There were many years where I went through several chains. But then there were years of mostly commuting when they hardly wore at all. If you plan to ride sensibly the 428 is fine. If you don't it isn't.
__________________
KTM 640 LC4E KTM 200 MXC XT200 |
|
|
07-15-2011, 07:27 PM
|
#2390 |
|
XTique Rider
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Arkansas USA
Oddometer: 7,919
|
PM's sent....
I got the top end back together without much fan fare tonight, head torqued done.... then I tried to get the cams back in. The fun began. With a new chain, I can not seem to get enough slack to get the exhaust cam in. Is there a trick to it short of removing the cam gears on the camshafts?
__________________
Google Earth GPS Howto (still a work in progress) use USGS TOPO Maps to layout trails. http://home.windstream.net/catfish/GPS The Early Bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese. https://sites.google.com/site/ozarkadventuretours/ |
|
|
07-16-2011, 09:49 AM
|
#2391 |
|
XTique Rider
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Arkansas USA
Oddometer: 7,919
|
Okay heres the way to get get the timing chain back on without removing the gears from the cam......
Remove the chain tensioner. Remove the front chain slider to give you room to work. Pull the exhaust/front side of the chain tight, and slip the exhaust cam into the journals with the gear low and lift the chain over the sprocket and let the cam set into position with the little timing hole straight up. Now get the exhaust cam you want it a tooth or two turned to the back and bring chain over the back of the gear towards the top, the cam is not going not going to be lined up with the journal yet but we're going to get there that why we're a tooth off right now. Now get a screw driver and going to slide it into a hole in the cam gear and lift up on the gear so your forcing the rear chain slide to flatten out and get the added slack needed to rotate the cam one tooth in the chain and it will set down into the journal. ![]() Then don't do like I did and try to kick the engine over to check it out because the intake cam will slip and you get to do it all over again.
__________________
Google Earth GPS Howto (still a work in progress) use USGS TOPO Maps to layout trails. http://home.windstream.net/catfish/GPS The Early Bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese. https://sites.google.com/site/ozarkadventuretours/ |
|
|
07-16-2011, 04:36 PM
|
#2392 |
|
Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Las Vegas
Oddometer: 75
|
Hey does anyone know the size of the lines on the carb? I'm thinking 1/8"? Wanna replace mine because their yellowed. Also shouldn't their be one on the overflow tube as well (i'm guessing it's overflow the one under the bowl with the screw)? Also the hose coming from the petcock to carb is 1/4"?
Brypoint screwed with this post 07-16-2011 at 05:05 PM |
|
|
07-16-2011, 05:24 PM
|
#2393 | |
|
On Any Sunday...
|
Quote:
__________________
Justin Calkins - Iowa Falls, Iowa 1981 Yamaha TT500H - Flattracker FOR SALE 2007 Triumph America |
|
|
|
07-16-2011, 06:08 PM
|
#2394 | |
|
Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Las Vegas
Oddometer: 75
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
07-16-2011, 06:13 PM
|
#2395 |
|
On Any Sunday...
|
Yes, I used something else on that, maybe 3/8" or 1/4"
__________________
Justin Calkins - Iowa Falls, Iowa 1981 Yamaha TT500H - Flattracker FOR SALE 2007 Triumph America |
|
|
07-16-2011, 06:15 PM
|
#2396 |
|
Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Las Vegas
Oddometer: 75
|
lol I'm trying to order some of this http://www.bikebandit.com/helix-raci...ored-fuel-line but outside diameter inside diameter argh!!
![]()
|
|
|
07-16-2011, 06:35 PM
|
#2397 |
|
Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Las Vegas
Oddometer: 75
|
Another thing I was interested in (hyjack my own thread lol) was what size spacer you guys replaced the stock shock one with. As I'm about to do new oil and seals I may as well try to lengthen the spacers too. I know were using PVC pipe but diameter and length? I'm gonna go for 15w oil and more preload. (spring tension helps with preload?) Currently the bike dips pretty low when I use the front brake (and that's with the crappy front breaking I have now but that's another story)
|
|
|
07-16-2011, 08:17 PM
|
#2398 |
|
Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Las Vegas
Oddometer: 75
|
Mikuni Pilot Jet (VM28/486)
Bought a #17.5 and #20 off ebay for 13$. Apparently these will fit so I have high hopes. |
|
|
07-16-2011, 09:23 PM
|
#2399 | |
|
XTique Rider
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Arkansas USA
Oddometer: 7,919
|
Quote:
I also changed the preload spacer, mine was 50mm stock, I used a 3/4" PVC pipe and cut it at 60mm in length. It still drives on hard front braking but with equal oil, I used 11oz per side (I think that is was right you can go back and check I think I posted it here). It helped the wheel deflection to where it is nearly 0 deflection now and resists bottoming too.
__________________
Google Earth GPS Howto (still a work in progress) use USGS TOPO Maps to layout trails. http://home.windstream.net/catfish/GPS The Early Bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese. https://sites.google.com/site/ozarkadventuretours/ |
|
|
|
07-17-2011, 12:35 AM
|
#2400 | |
|
Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Las Vegas
Oddometer: 75
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Share |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
|
|