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Old 11-25-2009, 01:35 PM   #796
Stagehand
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Location: Shawangunks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tate
that was it. the fuel inlet had a little rust clogging it. i'm guessing it was because the bike had sat a few weeks and when i opened the petcock small pieces of rust had clogged the fuel inlet..cleaned it out and it starts first kick!

thanks
Whew! got one right. like a stopped clock! Glad it worked.


I put one of them little inline fuel filters on.
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Old 11-28-2009, 02:58 PM   #797
InfiniteMiles
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I really like this bike, but I'm getting sick off stripped fasteners, guess I would have to buy a brand new bike to rid my self of this plague!

Say it with me people
TORQUE WRENCH

I have thanks to the PO's incompetence.

A stripped cylinder head bolt, which prevents me from checking the top end three stripped side cover bolts, which prevent me from changing the tsunami wave of a front sprocket, and a stripped oil strainer bolt!

I know how to drill and tap, but these are delicate pieces, if I get the threads on any angle, it will mean buying a new crankcase or cylinder head, which ultimately means working even more hours in a soul sucking job.

This is going to take some zen like patience, a surgeons environment of a garage, and lots of beer.
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Old 11-28-2009, 03:09 PM   #798
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Location: A town without a cop, North Idaho
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Is it possible for these bikes to be 360 degrees out of time?

I got my bike back together, it starts and runs but the high rpms aren't there, it won't rev up with a heavy load. I checked cam timing and it's dead on, the carbs are clean. What's up?
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Old 11-28-2009, 04:25 PM   #799
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Suva
Is it possible for these bikes to be 360 degrees out of time?

I got my bike back together, it starts and runs but the high rpms aren't there, it won't rev up with a heavy load. I checked cam timing and it's dead on, the carbs are clean. What's up?

Did you mess with the carb at all? I'd make sure its on spec. I'll copy down the specs for you in a minute.

Edit: The pilot air screw should be 2 +- a 1/2 turn out, I don't think that's it though.

How is your fuel line, does it have any kinks?

You should check the gap on your spark plug, it should be between 0.7-.0.8 MM.

If this doesn't work I would check the ignition system. If you need specs for that let me know but at least make sure all the connections are clean and that every thing is snug.

hope this helps if not let me know.

InfiniteMiles screwed with this post 11-28-2009 at 04:56 PM
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Old 11-28-2009, 11:35 PM   #800
Suva
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Plug gap is fine, no kinks and The bike ran fine with the jetting it has before I tore it apart. It only sat for a month or so while the crappy local shop got my timing chain, and I didn't touch the carbs till I discovered that it was running poorly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by InfiniteMiles
Did you mess with the carb at all? I'd make sure its on spec. I'll copy down the specs for you in a minute.

Edit: The pilot air screw should be 2 +- a 1/2 turn out, I don't think that's it though.

How is your fuel line, does it have any kinks?

You should check the gap on your spark plug, it should be between 0.7-.0.8 MM.

If this doesn't work I would check the ignition system. If you need specs for that let me know but at least make sure all the connections are clean and that every thing is snug.

hope this helps if not let me know.
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Old 11-30-2009, 08:31 AM   #801
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Suva
Plug gap is fine, no kinks and The bike ran fine with the jetting it has before I tore it apart. It only sat for a month or so while the crappy local shop got my timing chain, and I didn't touch the carbs till I discovered that it was running poorly.
You never know when some junk can clog a carb, worth a re-check. I wouldn't know about out of time, sorry.

If that's the last thing that happend to make it run bad......that's where I'd start.
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Old 11-30-2009, 09:28 AM   #802
InfiniteMiles
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Are you sure you have the timing right at the chain/gears?
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Old 11-30-2009, 09:34 AM   #803
J-Ball
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Carb Jetting

picking up from a few pages back.

After installing a UNI filter and a Super Trapp Exhaust the bike is now running lean on the top end. Ordered XT600 jets, both of which look obviously smaller than the current jetting. I'm thinking when I had the carb in the Yamaha shop they must have reamed it out a bit (looks reamed). I did complain to them that it was running lean at the time (UNI filter only).

SO... am I right in thinking I should ream it a bit more, shim it and see what happens? Looking for a cream colored spark plug. Should I shoot for a little too rich THEN start drilling the air box for more air (leaner) OR is there a better approach? Thanks for any and all input, this is new hat to me.
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Old 11-30-2009, 10:03 AM   #804
SkidMarx
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Location: Ortonville, MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InfiniteMiles
I really like this bike, but I'm getting sick off stripped fasteners, guess I would have to buy a brand new bike to rid my self of this plague!

Say it with me people
TORQUE WRENCH

I have thanks to the PO's incompetence.

A stripped cylinder head bolt, which prevents me from checking the top end three stripped side cover bolts, which prevent me from changing the tsunami wave of a front sprocket, and a stripped oil strainer bolt!

I know how to drill and tap, but these are delicate pieces, if I get the threads on any angle, it will mean buying a new crankcase or cylinder head, which ultimately means working even more hours in a soul sucking job.

This is going to take some zen like patience, a surgeons environment of a garage, and lots of beer.
I agree with the torquing, but be aware that if you take these things apart enough, they will start to strip threads even if you always use the correct torque.

Was the cylinder head bolt an actual head bolt, or one of the smaller cam bolts?

I haven't had any big bolts strip, but I got tired of cam caps and other small bolts stripping and went ahead and put thread inserts in for all of the cam caps, exaust, valve cover and decompresor bolt(I did actually over tighten the decompresor bolt).

Side note:
I adjusted my valves with the head off so it was easier to just take the cams on and off. Retorqueing each time.
Problem is, I had to do it a bunch of times. I think this is what weakened the cam cap threads. Since the head was off, it was also easy to do the inserts and clean out all the shavings. Now I don't have to wory about it so it was time well spent.

I got tired of taking my side cover off to get to the sprocket so I just cut the plastic away that covers it. That part is just a guard anyway. First time I did while it was still on the bike. I cleaned it up the next time I took the guard off.
You can kind of see it in this pic.
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Old 11-30-2009, 01:48 PM   #805
mrcool
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I intend to take my 1994 XT on a european tour leaving from Scotland, UK. Around 3000 miles or so.

What should I do to prepare it for the trip.

Sort out luggage options
Strip Inspect engine top end, rebuild?
Upgrade rear shock to cope with weight, options?
Upgrade to 520 chain sprockets
Sort out lower shock link bushes

Has anybody fitted a cooling fan?
Comfier seat?

Thanks
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Old 11-30-2009, 05:03 PM   #806
InfiniteMiles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkidMarx
I agree with the torquing, but be aware that if you take these things apart enough, they will start to strip threads even if you always use the correct torque.

Was the cylinder head bolt an actual head bolt, or one of the smaller cam bolts?

I haven't had any big bolts strip, but I got tired of cam caps and other small bolts stripping and went ahead and put thread inserts in for all of the cam caps, exaust, valve cover and decompresor bolt(I did actually over tighten the decompresor bolt).

Side note:
I adjusted my valves with the head off so it was easier to just take the cams on and off. Retorqueing each time.
Problem is, I had to do it a bunch of times. I think this is what weakened the cam cap threads. Since the head was off, it was also easy to do the inserts and clean out all the shavings. Now I don't have to wory about it so it was time well spent.

I got tired of taking my side cover off to get to the sprocket so I just cut the plastic away that covers it. That part is just a guard anyway. First time I did while it was still on the bike. I cleaned it up the next time I took the guard off.
You can kind of see it in this pic.
Glad I'm not the only one.

A bolt loses approximately 20% of it's strength every time it's torqued to spec, so it's not surprising they go. I just think it's funny how every one thinks tighter is better.

The bolt I stripped was a cylinder head bolt, luckily I found the head and four bolts and rubber gourmets for cheaper than one new bolt and rubber.

EDIT: In the process of drilling out the bolt I managed to muck up the threads on one of the cam shaft caps.

My side cover is looking a little gnarly, so worst case I'll cut it off, still would be nice to have for the time being.

I'm only worried about the strainer, I've got a center punch, an extractor kit and close quarters stubby power drill, I just need the courage to try. : )


J-Ball start by getting your idle circuit exact, then go for the cream colored plug. Just remember this will throw off your mid range where I'm guessing you spend 95% of your time riding. Only after the idle and high end are set can you move to the mid range. to get your idle exact turn your air pilot screw out to 2 and 1/2 turns, then screw it in slowly, and listen to the idle. If it increases you need a richer jet. If your idle slows turn the screw out, if the rpm's rise you need a leaner jet. You will have the perfect jet when your air screw is set to about 2 and 1/2 turns and any adjustment lowers the rpm's. then adjust your idle with the throttle stop screw.

The idle will have very little affect above 1/8th throttle but it is always there to some extent. The main jet will be your top end, but a larger main will also enrich your mid range, which is not a bad thing on these bikes.

Just remember if your trying to get smooth throttle all through out the rev rang, start with the idle circuit, then WOT with the main jet and finally the needle height and needle jet for mid range.

The secondary carb is actually in place to prevent bogging when going from the low mid range to WOT(A single carb bogs due to lose of the venturi affect) but due to a lack of jet's available it's hard to bring the secondary to it's full potential.

InfiniteMiles screwed with this post 12-01-2009 at 12:55 AM
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Old 12-01-2009, 03:59 PM   #807
Suva
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Location: A town without a cop, North Idaho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InfiniteMiles
Are you sure you have the timing right at the chain/gears?
Yes, I even had somebody double check me.
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Old 12-01-2009, 04:17 PM   #808
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XT to TT fork conversion

Just finished up converting my XT350 to TT forks. Here is a picture just before I installed the headlight and cover. Managed to keep my instruments and all other XT funcitons except the fork lock. Will see what this does in the dirt and rocks.

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Old 12-02-2009, 11:51 AM   #809
joeyroe
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For Sale

Quote:
Originally Posted by joeyroe
Its just setting in the shed and I need money to feed my hare scramble addiction.I can post pictures if some one is serious.Its not pretty but in good mechanical condition.
Bump
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Old 12-02-2009, 01:04 PM   #810
jegrmajstr
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Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Slovenia, Europe
Oddometer: 135
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrcool
I intend to take my 1994 XT on a european tour leaving from Scotland, UK. Around 3000 miles or so.

What should I do to prepare it for the trip.

Sort out luggage options
Strip Inspect engine top end, rebuild?
Upgrade rear shock to cope with weight, options?
Upgrade to 520 chain sprockets
Sort out lower shock link bushes

Has anybody fitted a cooling fan?
Comfier seat?

Thanks
I'll try to help... First of all, how high is your budget? That could affect a lot of things, but I'll try to keep it simple and cheap

Quote:
Sort out luggage options
I replied to your email about this

Quote:
Strip Inspect engine top end, rebuild?
A thorough examination of the engine by a good shop is worth it's money, especially if the bike's service history is unknown and they can adjust the valves and tighten the cam chain if necessary. Also a complete change of fluids and filters is a must (that you can do yourself if you have the basic tools and tech know-how) before any 1000k+ miles trip is due. Also don't forget about the gaskets.

Quote:
Upgrade rear shock to cope with weight, options?
Definitely a must, two ways to do this:
LOW BUDGET: Take the shock apart and you'll find a circlip holding the upper spring holder in place; also there are three grooves for the circlip. Put the circlip in the lowest position and the shock will be a bit stiffer.
NOT-SO-LOW-BUDGET: A new shock and spring by Wilbers or Wirth. Also you can find a spring shop that'll make you new springs both front and rear (gues who's XT350 is getting a new custom set of springs)

Quote:
Upgrade to 520 chain sprockets
Don't have much experience about this, but the 428 chain can cope just fine with normal riding (off-road excluded ofcourse). Mine lasts about 12k miles, so I'm not planing to convert it to stronger so far.

Quote:
Sort out lower shock link bushes
Don't know exactly what you mean with this, but taking the suspension linkage apart, cleaning and greasing it won't hurt it

Quote:
Has anybody fitted a cooling fan?
I don't think so, and the bike doesn't need it if you aren't planing sitting in the mid-summer heat in rush-hour traffic for hours and hours.

Quote:
Comfier seat?
Been there done that Key word: furniture upholsterer I took my seat to such guy, he stripped all the old foam of it until he had a bare seat shell and made a new seat with thicker, comfier foam and new leather upholstry. Car seat uphosterer would work too
A pic of the seat:


Hope this helps you a bit
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