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Old 01-02-2010, 10:04 PM   #856
George 99
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Location: Kingman, Arizona
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Possible XT headlight upgrade

Steve, friend of mine has a WR-250. Modern clear lens headlight, looks like a direct replacement for the stock fluted XT light.

I'll get measurements and check prices and post back here.

My 96 eats headlight bulbs. Anyone know what's up with that? Voltage measurement shows <12 VAC and the instrument lights don't blow so has to be vibration(?).

Comments?

Also have a couple oil leaks, lock bolt on the compression release is stripped and the housing for the cam chain tensioner is cracked. Both leak just enuff to make a mess.

Carbs seem to run well but the main overflows the bowl a little. Float set to high is my guess. Hate to pull'em when she's running good.

Just finding this thread, it'll take a while to read it all. I've added about 4500 miles since getting mine several years ago. Don't really do much dirt but just did <200 miles in SW AZ and SE CA this week. Pics are at http://picasaweb.google.com/cattmand...herSLandingAZ#
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Old 01-03-2010, 12:49 AM   #857
George 99
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sprocket size versus chain size

The longer pitch of the 5nn chain negates the gain in diameter versus the 4nn sprocket. The bigger chain still has to bend around the bigger sprocket. The diff in chain size, 4 to 5, is the difference in length between the pins.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cnj
Agreed. I don't believe it is applicable in this case, however, as the diameter of the 520 type 15 tooth front sprocket is very close to the diameter of the stock 428 19 tooth front sprocket (due to difference in pitch/tooth size, etc).
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Old 01-03-2010, 08:58 PM   #858
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Thanks for that, just ordered a set.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tate
these work perfectly. got 'em on my '96. http://www.d2moto.com/Yamaha-PW-50-8...gs-p/fp003.htm only 16 bucks!
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Old 01-04-2010, 07:42 AM   #859
SkidMarx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George 99
Steve, friend of mine has a WR-250. Modern clear lens headlight, looks like a direct replacement for the stock fluted XT light.

I'll get measurements and check prices and post back here.

My 96 eats headlight bulbs. Anyone know what's up with that? Voltage measurement shows <12 VAC and the instrument lights don't blow so has to be vibration(?).

Comments?

Also have a couple oil leaks, lock bolt on the compression release is stripped and the housing for the cam chain tensioner is cracked. Both leak just enuff to make a mess.

Carbs seem to run well but the main overflows the bowl a little. Float set to high is my guess. Hate to pull'em when she's running good.

Just finding this thread, it'll take a while to read it all. I've added about 4500 miles since getting mine several years ago. Don't really do much dirt but just did <200 miles in SW AZ and SE CA this week. Pics are at http://picasaweb.google.com/cattmand...herSLandingAZ#
You can Helicoil the compressoin release lock bolt hole. Just be very carefull that the coil doesn't go in too far.
Are you talking about the cam chain tenioner itself, or the cylinder casting.

If it's the tensioner, get a new one quick. If it fails, it will be expensive. if it's the casting, some jb-weld ought to do the trick.
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Old 01-04-2010, 03:03 PM   #860
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Skid', Thanks for the response. It's the casting on the tensioner. Surprised me when it >CRACKED!< while tightening the top bolt. Rode her 200 miles last week with some oil leak. (Water Weld on top of the broken piece but didn't want to remove it in the field after finding the leak.) I took it off yesterday and top ear fell on the floor. A small hole just under where it broke off allows oil passage. More Water Weld and put it back together today.

On the compression release, I removed the copper washer, wrapped the threaded part of the bolt with yellow silicone tape (thinking without the washer it'd go just a little farther into the hole threads but not too far!), added some blue RTV and put the bolt back in. Then covered the bolt with more Water Weld. That ought'a hold for the time being.

I have a call in to my used parts guy for a new (used) tensioner. I think I'd have to drop the motor to reach the compression release bolt hole so if it don't leak I'm not gonna bother 'til next valve check.

I've caused several of my own problems on this bike. Seems to me the aluminum is softer than what I'm used to on my Hondas. Sure is fun to ride, tho, when she's able. I used this bike to commute when I was working a construction job. Great to be able to slip-slide thru a muddy construction area with my mechanic's tool box strapped on the (large) after market luggage rack.

I've not done much from stock; did have a turbo-swirl(?) plate added to the carbs, rejetted by a good mechanic here in Kingman. Added the luggage rack I purchased of i-net several years ago from a rancher in Montana. He'd made several examples after designing one for himself.

She's suffering from a minor overflow on the carb float I still have to address. I'll check the jets at that time to see what my mech. stuck in there. She runs good, starts easy enuff, and gets decent mileage.

This summer is gonna be "dirty" for me. I put about 2000 on her last year out of a total 65,000 miles (lots of street on my ST-1100s.) Can't afford that much for gas 'n tars this year so more dirt. It's cheaper to go slower.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SkidMarx
You can Helicoil the compressoin release lock bolt hole. Just be very carefull that the coil doesn't go in too far.
Are you talking about the cam chain tenioner itself, or the cylinder casting.

If it's the tensioner, get a new one quick. If it fails, it will be expensive. if it's the casting, some jb-weld ought to do the trick.
Again, thanks for the response. Check my pics from last weeks trip at http://picasaweb.google.com/cattmand...herSLandingAZ#
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Old 01-04-2010, 06:29 PM   #861
George 99
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Torque wrench don't always work either. I've stripped more bolts on my XT than on both my ST-1100s in 300,000 miles.

Quote:
Originally Posted by InfiniteMiles
I really like this bike, but I'm getting sick off stripped fasteners, guess I would have to buy a brand new bike to rid my self of this plague!

Say it with me people
TORQUE WRENCH

I have thanks to the PO's incompetence.

A stripped cylinder head bolt, which prevents me from checking the top end three stripped side cover bolts, which prevent me from changing the tsunami wave of a front sprocket, and a stripped oil strainer bolt!

I know how to drill and tap, but these are delicate pieces, if I get the threads on any angle, it will mean buying a new crankcase or cylinder head, which ultimately means working even more hours in a soul sucking job.

This is going to take some zen like patience, a surgeons environment of a garage, and lots of beer.
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Old 01-04-2010, 07:07 PM   #862
George 99
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I need to check the total output of the battery circuit on the XT (I want to run 'lectric vest and heated grips, don't think there's enuff power available stock, but...). There shouldn't be any problem running something like a GPS, low power drain.

Best way is to add a secondary fuse block (check you local auto parts store), run a lead from the pos + side of the battery thru a 30 amp relay to the fuse block, add your accessories off the fuse block. Trigger the relay thru an ignition controlled hot lead like the tail light hot wire. Use 14 ga for the main power to and ground from the fuse block, 18 ga works fine for the trigger lead.

Gotta investigate getting the coils rewound for more power, there's a stock set of coils on E-Bay ($129!!) I could get "fixed" without tearing the bike down first.

"I need more power!" - Derek Catt, Aug 2002

Quote:
Originally Posted by Psycho18th
Anyone have an answer to this yet? I'm looking to run a power outlet to run a little Garmin GPS off of. Seems like steady 12V goes to the tail-light and horn switch whenever the key is on according to the diagram in my Clymer manual. Do I just tap into that, or should I run a new wire directly off the battery?
Thanks
Psycho
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George 99 screwed with this post 01-04-2010 at 07:13 PM
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Old 01-04-2010, 07:30 PM   #863
George 99
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lighting coil rewind

Corky, didn't see any info on your XT-350 rebuild site about where/how to get the lighting coil rewound for more amps. I wanna run 'lectric vest and heated grips, don't think there's enuff power stock to do that.

Please post info.

TNX, Geo

(pm also sent)
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Old 01-05-2010, 09:43 AM   #864
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George 99,
My quick fix for decomp was very similar. Sounds like you already realized that without he washer, you can easilly jam the bolt into the shaft and sieze it up. I left my washer on and gobbed the jb-weld on to hold it in place it seeped a little oil, but i rode it for quite a while that way.
I'm pretty sure the hole isn't actually threaded all the way through because I did forget the washer once and tighten the bolt too much and I ended up with a burr in hole where the shaft goes. Just something to be aware of.

You can get the decomp out by removing the front and top motor mounts and the small bolt on the bottom leaving the big swingarm bolt in. Then you can tip the engine up enough. You still have to take off the carbs, exhaust, and valve cover so it may just be easier to pull the engine and work on it on a bench. I only know about the tipping thing because I forgot to put the decomp in once and didn't want to pull the whole engine again.

I would seriously consider not riding the bike without both bolts holding the cam chain tensioner in. I think the amount of pressure the tensioner has on it could easilly break the other ear off. If that happens, you're looking at bent or broken valves, and/or holed piston, ruined head and a a complete teardown to dig all of the pieces out of the cases.
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Old 01-05-2010, 10:03 AM   #865
George 99
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cam chain tensioner advice

Good point on the tensioner possibly breaking the other ear!

I "glued" the broken ear with Water Weld, bolted the unit in place, than added another filigree of Water Weld that ovelaps the joint. Also added some blue RTV on the gasket surface. I want something to ride and both my STs are down right now for major maintenance (my black one needs a motor due to a crack in the block leaking major coolant.) This is the first time I've been without a functional bike in over 40 years!

Thanks for the tip. I'll check... WooHoo, my supplier has the tensioner for $25. Lots better than $70 for a new one. He's also checking to see if he has the alternator stator, wanna get a spare and get it rewired for more watts (heated gear, don'cha know. )

Thanks again,

Quote:
Originally Posted by SkidMarx
George 99,
My quick fix for decomp was very similar. Sounds like you already realized that without he washer, you can easilly jam the bolt into the shaft and sieze it up. I left my washer on and gobbed the jb-weld on to hold it in place it seeped a little oil, but i rode it for quite a while that way.
I'm pretty sure the hole isn't actually threaded all the way through because I did forget the washer once and tighten the bolt too much and I ended up with a burr in hole where the shaft goes. Just something to be aware of.

You can get the decomp out by removing the front and top motor mounts and the small bolt on the bottom leaving the big swingarm bolt in. Then you can tip the engine up enough. You still have to take off the carbs, exhaust, and valve cover so it may just be easier to pull the engine and work on it on a bench. I only know about the tipping thing because I forgot to put the decomp in once and didn't want to pull the whole engine again.

I would seriously consider not riding the bike without both bolts holding the cam chain tensioner in. I think the amount of pressure the tensioner has on it could easilly break the other ear off. If that happens, you're looking at bent or broken valves, and/or holed piston, ruined head and a a complete teardown to dig all of the pieces out of the cases.
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Old 01-05-2010, 09:25 PM   #866
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Still tinkering with jetting after putting on an old supertrapp and uni filter. I've found that with the current jetting set up it runs great with the air box door off. (I'll try to de-snorkle again but it seems my bike generaly dosn't like that). Is it ok to run with the airbox door off or is this typicly not good? If I put it back on where should I start drilling holes, top of box? top of door? 1/2" holes?

thanks for all help past and present... the XT is really starting to run
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Old 01-06-2010, 07:03 AM   #867
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I wouldn't run very far with the door off but fine for a test. Sounds like it's rich with the door on so try removing the snokle again (I know, PITA). Pics I've seen here show holes in the top.

Mine is nearly stock, air box hasn't been touched. Last week she would pull exactly 78 MPH on flat 'n level with no wind. Friend on a new WR-250 pulled me by about 2 MPH. Guess I need to work the carb soon's my other niggly problems are fixed.

Be sure to post your final jet #s.

Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Ball
Still tinkering with jetting after putting on an old supertrapp and uni filter. I've found that with the current jetting set up it runs great with the air box door off. (I'll try to de-snorkle again but it seems my bike generaly dosn't like that). Is it ok to run with the airbox door off or is this typicly not good? If I put it back on where should I start drilling holes, top of box? top of door? 1/2" holes?

thanks for all help past and present... the XT is really starting to run
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Old 01-06-2010, 07:20 PM   #868
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A couple theories on putting holes in the airbox:

1. 1" holes in the top. Keeps the holes far from flung up crud from the trail/back tire. However, if it is getting wet/mud up that high, it would likely pool on top and drop right into the airbox.

2. Same deal but in the airbox door/side. Closer to thrown up gunk, but odds of it making it into the airbox are slim.

3. Either way, I'd make one hole at a time, then test and see the effects on performance/jetting. I'd also put some kind of coarse foam over the holes to help repel gunk.

4. Maybe removing the snorkel does something to the way the air flows into the airbox, disrupting flow and such. Not sure if that was even considered when the bike was designed, but from what I understand, the shape of the airbox can have big effects on how the air flows through to the carb and is a consideration on modern intake tract designs...
Again, please post up your final jetting numbers when you get it sorted...

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Old 01-07-2010, 06:08 AM   #869
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I drilled 10mm holes in the airbox cover/door for a very simple reason: it's much simpler to replace the door then patch up an entire airbox if for whatever reason you're reverting the bike into original settings

I'm running this setup for two years now and no problems so far with water/crud getting into the airbox, because the door is at a forward facing angle so the crap just flies past the holes.

Oh, and two 5mm holes on each side of the bottom of the airbox help any water that strays into the airbox to find another way out that through the exhaust
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Old 01-07-2010, 06:45 AM   #870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Psycho18th
Maybe removing the snorkel does something to the way the air flows into the airbox, disrupting flow and such. Not sure if that was even considered when the bike was designed, but from what I understand, the shape of the airbox can have big effects on how the air flows through to the carb and is a consideration on modern intake tract designs...
I bet the snorkle is mostly for noise.

Has anyone tried fitting a TT airbox?
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