The XT350 thread

[Grreatdog]

Originally Posted by moonie527

Okay, first question. I took the bike out for a short 5 mile ride today and noticed that there was oil leaking from the oil fill plug. Unscrewed the plug, cleaned it and the area, then tightened it back down and went back out riding. Got home and noticed that there was oil seeping from the same place, is this common, or should I be worried?

Was there an o-ring on the plug? If not, there should be. I used to tighten mine with a wrench to keep if from leaking even with a decent o-ring.

BTW, my wife just looked over my shoulder and asked if I was missing my old bike. She said yours looks like mine did when we got married in 87. The answer was no - I was only admiring how virgin it looks.

Good find. Mine lasted 17 years. All that's left now:

[SnoDrtRider]

Originally Posted by moonie527

Okay, first question. I took the bike out for a short 5 mile ride today and noticed that there was oil leaking from the oil fill plug. Unscrewed the plug, cleaned it and the area, then tightened it back down and went back out riding. Got home and noticed that there was oil seeping from the same place, is this common, or should I be worried?

Sounds like you are missing the "O" ring on the fill plug.

[jegrmajstr]

Since there aren't many of us here with the 350's, I'll go on and intruduce my little pet :)
This is my 15-year-old XT 350, which went through a transformation from a worn dual-sport to a lightweight enduro-tourer :)
I bought the bike last year, and because it was a bit worse for wear, but the engine was ok I took it apart during the winter and completly rebuilt it.

necessary overhaul:
- changed the fork oil (15w)
- lowered the circlip on the rear shock
- changed the worn clutch pads
- changed the front disc for a Braking disc, with new brake pads, also changed the rear brake shoes
- swapped the stock exhaust for a Fabi Power
- installed new, smaller indicators
- changed the stock rubber brake line for a braided steel brake line
- swapped the stock light with an H4
- new chain & sprocket set

touring upgrade:
- reupholstered seat (comfort sup: )
- MotoDetail 42l topcase (old 29l Kappa on pics)
- Wintex saddle bags (had to make brackets for them)
- Sigma Sport speedo/travel computer
- Renthal handlebars (better hand position)
- Michelin Sirac front and Pilot Activ rear tyre)

The bike handles and runs great, it gives me 50-60mpg with cruising speed at 60-70mph (occasional bursts up to 80mph at overtaking) and it'll scrape a peg with no problem on tight and twisty roads, but there are still some tinkering that awaits the bike:

- rejetting and airbox mods for a bit more power
- oil cooler
- crash bars (home made ofcourse )
- manifold heat wraps
- 20T countershaft sprocket for a bit more useful road speeds
- spacers in the front forks
- new mirrors and handguards

Here are some pics:

before:




during:






after:






on the road:





This is all so far, an XT a bit out of the ordinary D-S league, but still a small andventure bike (I sometimes joke that all it needs now is a bigger tank and it will be the world's first 350 Tenere :) )

PS: you can see the full galery here: http://www.bikepics.com/members/jegrmajstr/93xt350/ and a short film http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VI5d7oXkWGE

[seriousracer]

Originally Posted by moonie527

Thought I'd chime in here. I just bought this '89 xt350 for $600 last week (actually I'm trading some electrical work that the owner was going to pay me $600 for ). It has 8900 miles on it and starts on the first or second kick. Other than a small dent in the tank it's in great condition although it does need some routine maintenance. I'm going to order a new chain and sprockets (worn) as well as new handlebars (tweaked a little) and various other small parts. I'll probably have tons of questions as it is my first bike and I have yet to receive my Clymers for it so any advice is appreciated.

[IMG][/IMG]

ohhh wow..... need to post a pic of my old girl even after the wife dropped it this weekend (her daughter crashed on her 200 ) that old girl is barely broken in. replace the tensioner and keep the idle up around for 1800 for good oil pressure for the tensioner. i just bought another one for 50 dollars that he had it idling way to low and the tensioner jumped.

[moonie527]

I've noticed that mine has acquired the habit of idling around 3k when it is warmed up with the choke in. I assume it is an air leak and tried spraying some carb cleaner around the carb boot but there was no noticeable change in rpm or anything. I pulled the air filter and the foam element has a large hole in the center and the rest was crumbling away. Could this be the cause or should I look for something else?

[jegrmajstr]

Originally Posted by moonie527

I've noticed that mine has acquired the habit of idling around 3k when it is warmed up with the choke in. I assume it is an air leak and tried spraying some carb cleaner around the carb boot but there was no noticeable change in rpm or anything. I pulled the air filter and the foam element has a large hole in the center and the rest was crumbling away. Could this be the cause or should I look for something else?

That hole in the filter is 99,9% to cause of the increased idling. Replace the filter, and then you'll see what you're up against.

[moonie527]

I just ordered a new element. By the way, I'm diggin' the flat black Road Warrior look of your bike but I think my wife would kill me if I did that to mine. Would enduro/touring be called an entouro?

[jegrmajstr]

Originally Posted by moonie527

I just ordered a new element. By the way, I'm diggin' the flat black Road Warrior look of your bike but I think my wife would kill me if I did that to mine. Would enduro/touring be called an entouro?

Hehe thanks, yes it is kinda mad max style like some friends commented it, but when I was rebuilding the bike the man who did the paint offered me a matt black version instead of the ordinary gloss finnish, and I just went for it :)
Hmm interesting question, what about a touroduro instead of an entouro Whatever it is, I'm going to try and reach 60 000 miles (25 000 so far ) and a couple of good long trips throughout Europe with this bike, let's see if these babies are really as tough as their reputation

[The Full Monty]

Ok, so now I am totally depressed. I just pulled the head off the XT, so that I could get at the broken bolt that was in the exhaust manifold port…..well it was not a broken bolt. Sometime in the past, the threads must have stripped and the hole was filled with epoxy. I have cleaned most of the epoxy out and there is NO metal left on the head side.

Does anyone know how to fix this thing? I was considering welding, but it is super close to the head. Obviously, epoxy will not work and a new head is $550……..maybe I should just part the poor thing out.

[jegrmajstr]

Originally Posted by FTL

Ok, so now I am totally depressed. I just pulled the head off the XT, so that I could get at the broken bolt that was in the exhaust manifold port…..well it was not a broken bolt. Sometime in the past, the threads must have stripped and the hole was filled with epoxy. I have cleaned most of the epoxy out and there is NO metal left on the head side.

Does anyone know how to fix this thing? I was considering welding, but it is super close to the head. Obviously, epoxy will not work and a new head is $550……..maybe I should just part the poor thing out.

That's a bitch... But there's still some hope left for the old girl :) If the epoxi doesn't cut it, what about liquid metal (something like epoxi, but much more durable, harder and more resistant to heat)? I don't know how you call the stuff in the US, but i think you get the point. We used this stuff to repair cracked engine cases and failed attempts to tune the channels in a 2-stroke engine, worked every time (even managed to get a 70cc scooter to reach more than 70mph with a engine case patched up this way)

[The Full Monty]

That's a bitch... But there's still some hope left for the old girl :) If the epoxi doesn't cut it, what about liquid metal (something like epoxi, but much more durable, harder and more resistant to heat)? I don't know how you call the stuff in the US, but i think you get the point. We used this stuff to repair cracked engine cases and failed attempts to tune the channels in a 2-stroke engine, worked every time (even managed to get a 70cc scooter to reach more than 70mph with a engine case patched up this way)

Liquid metal might work….something like Belzona. Here is a photo of the hole. What is weird is that there is a hole going back into the block. I am not sure if this is just a void from when it was cast or something that is supposed to be there…or not.

[moonie527]

I've seen JB Weld work wonders. Cracked blocks on circle track cars as well as reshaping intake ports that have been ground through. Won't hurt to try.

[Grreatdog]

If the bike is worth saving, I would take it to a welding shop that does aluminum to get the hole filled and retapped. A decent shop won't charge very much for that little bit of work.

However, "very much" is a relative term and depends on whether or not the bike is worth it. It will be at least a couple of hundred dollars to repair right.

Parted out minus the munched head mine only brought $450 on eBay including a Clarke tank, Supertrapp exhaust, rejetted carb and clean title for the frame. So there isn't much to be made parting them out and it is a headache with all the losers on eBay.

But check around and find out which welding shops work with aluminum motors before getting it done. I have had both outboards and motorcycles repaired with similar problems.

And I have had both good and bad work returned. But all were useable. One of the advantages of aluminum is that it is relatively easy to repair. But you want a shop that will grind it back like it was and tap the hole in the right place.

[jegrmajstr]

I remember that one of you used home made PowerNow inserts, but the webpage that originaly had plans with dimensions on doesn't work anymore. So has anyone an AutoCad image or anything useful so I can make them myself?

Thanks, Tom

[The Full Monty]

I found a used head on ebay for $200 and went ahead and got it. Hopefully, it will be in as good of shape as the seller says it is in.

A question: When I was removing the head, the block pulled loose from the pan. It did not tear the gasket. I am thinking that I can just clean the sealing surfaces and bolt it back up. Any thoughts?