ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 10-29-2003, 07:54 AM   #16
Bart
Constant Lurker
 
Bart's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Location: Air Transport Central
Oddometer: 2,951
ATF

Quote:
Said fixer:
yup, ATF is good stuff... perfect thing for flushing out the forks and what i used to fill mine this time.. i'm starting wioth light oil and installing new sproings as soon as they get here... then i'll play with viscosity and the cartridge conversion.

yep, i know it doesn't take 16 years...when i installed the Progressive springs in my Katana with only abut 2K on the clock, one side was fine and the other was nasty... but that was more than 10 years ago, and now i realize that i filled the forks with too much oil, making them too stiff... oh well, that bikes long gone.

The Problem that I understood with ATF is that the Manufacturing is not as stringent to ensure viscocity is equal throughout. They are more worried about wear resistance and temperature variances.
It seems to me that if you are concerned about the small changes in rebuilding every year, I would also be concerned about the quality of the oil you are putting in. Besides with a little knowledge in fork technolgy it is easy to shim and tune a fork yourself. Factory tolerances alone can give you a fork that is not up to par right from the factory (atleast on damper rod type). Using thin brass shims (even a strip of aluminum pop can) under the slider seals helps prevent leakage past the damper.

Just my 2.5 cents.

Bart
__________________
Originally Posted by Gravity's Dog
"I came to the site for the bikes, and stayed for Jo Momma. I am constantly amazed, revolted, and in love with the ideas I see here. An extreme reflection of the human experience."
Bart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2003, 10:24 AM   #17
fixer
KLR-riding cheap bastard
 
fixer's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2003
Location: Lost Wage$, NV
Oddometer: 7,439
well... the AFT for both sides of the forks came from the same bottle... so it should be the same viscosity... will it be the same viscosity as a bottle of ATF off the shelf next time, dunoo, does it really matter? anyway, this is more of a short term fix to avoid tossing the the expensive fork oil when i install the cartridge emulators in a few months.

yup, i'm a cheap bastard who rides a 16 year old KLR i "stole" for $675.00 and is currently running $1.00 worth of ATF in his forks... so sue me! :

i think it was Flanny who said "ride it like you stole it", well at the price i paid for a bike with under 6kmi, i've been accused of doing just that!

the whole damn bike is pennytek!
fixer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2003, 09:14 PM   #18
Bart
Constant Lurker
 
Bart's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2003
Location: Air Transport Central
Oddometer: 2,951
The Point was!!

Quote:
Said fixer:
well... the AFT for both sides of the forks came from the same bottle... so it should be the same viscosity... will it be the same viscosity as a bottle of ATF off the shelf next time, dunoo, does it really matter? anyway, this is more of a short term fix to avoid tossing the the expensive fork oil when i install the cartridge emulators in a few months.

yup, i'm a cheap bastard who rides a 16 year old KLR i "stole" for $675.00 and is currently running $1.00 worth of ATF in his forks... so sue me! :

i think it was Flanny who said "ride it like you stole it", well at the price i paid for a bike with under 6kmi, i've been accused of doing just that!

the whole damn bike is pennytek!

The point was that if you really think that a fork should be rebuilt with all new parts after one season of abuse and you will notice the differance, the oil you put in if it is a 10, 12 1/2 or a 15 is noticable.

Bart
__________________
Originally Posted by Gravity's Dog
"I came to the site for the bikes, and stayed for Jo Momma. I am constantly amazed, revolted, and in love with the ideas I see here. An extreme reflection of the human experience."
Bart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2012, 01:20 PM   #19
zimi
Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Switzerland
Oddometer: 53
Hello, I am in the process of changing the fork oil of my KTM Adventure 640 2004. I was surprise not to be able to read anywhere, the amount of oil I have to put into each tube. They only say to measure it. I find it not very practival. I don't want to dismount the whole fork, just open the cover, empty the old oil (that looked like new to me) and add the correct amount of new oil whitout dismounting everything.
Is it possible?

thanks
zimi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2012, 06:25 AM   #20
LukasM
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: On a RTW ride - currently Central Asia
Oddometer: 5,333
Quote:
Originally Posted by zimi View Post
Hello, I am in the process of changing the fork oil of my KTM Adventure 640 2004. I was surprise not to be able to read anywhere, the amount of oil I have to put into each tube. They only say to measure it. I find it not very practival. I don't want to dismount the whole fork, just open the cover, empty the old oil (that looked like new to me) and add the correct amount of new oil whitout dismounting everything.
Is it possible?

thanks
No, on open cartridge forks you measure the air chamber length and not the oil volume. Too many variable to go with volume only.

How are you planning to remove the oil if not by dismounting the forks? Even if you are going to remove the cartridge instead of turning the fork over - not any less work IMO - measuring the air chamber isn't any extra work.
__________________
RTW trip blog: https://www.facebook.com/AroundTheWorldWithLukasM
LukasM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2012, 08:12 AM   #21
zimi
Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Switzerland
Oddometer: 53
I removed the fork tubes, of course. But I just wanted to open the top screw to empty the tubes and then fill them without having to take out the spring and dismount everything. If I can know the quantity of oil, I can fill it, colse it and remount it.
zimi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2012, 08:19 AM   #22
LukasM
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: On a RTW ride - currently Central Asia
Oddometer: 5,333
You don't have to dismount "everything". You simply screw off the fork caps, pull out the springs, and then you can start filling them again.

Takes about 1 extra minute per side, and then you will know that the oil volume is set correctly.
__________________
RTW trip blog: https://www.facebook.com/AroundTheWorldWithLukasM
LukasM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2012, 01:51 PM   #23
zimi
Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Switzerland
Oddometer: 53
Ok, I thought I have to remove the springs and then the black plastic sticks, in order to fill with the right amount of oil.

So bascally you are telling me I can take out only the springs, add oil until I am at 120mm from the border (I have 48mm fork) and remount everything?
zimi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2012, 11:11 PM   #24
meat popsicle
Ignostic
 
meat popsicle's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2004
Location: Circumlocution Office of Little Dorrit
Oddometer: 14,134
Quote:
Originally Posted by zimi View Post
Ok, I thought I have to remove the springs and then the black plastic sticks, in order to fill with the right amount of oil.

So bascally you are telling me I can take out only the springs, add oil until I am at 120mm from the border (I have 48mm fork) and remount everything?
This should have what you seek:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=339544

(it has a link to this thread: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165680)
__________________
Kronreif Trunkenpolz Mattighofen LC4 640

Its not so much staying alive; its staying human that counts.
meat popsicle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2012, 12:47 AM   #25
LukasM
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: On a RTW ride - currently Central Asia
Oddometer: 5,333
Quote:
Originally Posted by zimi View Post
Ok, I thought I have to remove the springs and then the black plastic sticks, in order to fill with the right amount of oil.

So bascally you are telling me I can take out only the springs, add oil until I am at 120mm from the border (I have 48mm fork) and remount everything?
Yes.
__________________
RTW trip blog: https://www.facebook.com/AroundTheWorldWithLukasM
LukasM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2012, 03:14 AM   #26
zimi
Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Switzerland
Oddometer: 53
thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for. I didn't find it when I search on the forum.
zimi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2012, 01:37 PM   #27
zimi
Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Switzerland
Oddometer: 53
I did it today, and it's pretty easy and fast to do it.... BUT.... On the left tube I saw something bad I think... In the guide, it's written you should push on the small aluminium tube and be able to fee lteh need taht do like a spring... On my left tube, it doesn't move at alll.. I think it means I have to dismount it... and see what's the problem
zimi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2012, 01:45 PM   #28
LukasM
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: On a RTW ride - currently Central Asia
Oddometer: 5,333
Seized and dirty rebound needle, a common problem.

Requires complete disassembly of the cartridge if you want it clean to work again properly.
__________________
RTW trip blog: https://www.facebook.com/AroundTheWorldWithLukasM
LukasM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2012, 10:04 AM   #29
zimi
Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Switzerland
Oddometer: 53
it's done, it was not nice to see, lot of rust!!!
zimi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2012, 10:42 PM   #30
eakins
Butler Maps
 
eakins's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Oddometer: 17,417
Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrs2 View Post
What's the best thing to flush out the old crap with I remember in the past Marzocci forks used to get some nast spooge in the bottom of them. That crap was real hard to get out without a tear down. Anything less viscous then oil recomended
i've seen my local guy put forks in his parts washer.
others have said to put kerosene in there and put the forks and dump and then keep doing it till it comes out clean. then take the time to drain all the kerosone and let the forks dry out some.
__________________
Butler Maps - motorcycle maps for riders by riders -
Alaska
AZ map COBDR AZBDR IDBDR South East map
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598717
Cycle World Adventure Rally:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=956350
eakins is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 07:22 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014