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Old 11-20-2010, 11:19 PM   #211
Dukehunt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtsurfer
These have been on ebay for a while now he's asking for offers
Cheaper to do the conversion to KTM, man they are expensive.

MMM maybe I should part my forks and front wheel with the excel rim for lotsa dollars
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Old 11-21-2010, 03:31 AM   #212
dirtsurfer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dukehunt
.....front wheel with the excel rim .....
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buncha Aussies , looks like you guys all think alike . You seem to be a very politically correct group .
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Old 11-21-2010, 06:06 AM   #213
muddyrabbit
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Wow those are expensive! I've missed out on several sets here on ADV that went for much less. I don't know what the currency exchange rate is but that seems way high.
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Old 11-21-2010, 06:16 AM   #214
HP2
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"What caliper / disc is this from?"

Caliper and Adapter from G650 X Moto,
selfmade disc.

a real cheap set:

http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...WNASIF:DE:1123
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Old 11-22-2010, 04:29 AM   #215
Colebatch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP2
"What caliper / disc is this from?"

Caliper and Adapter from G650 X Moto,
selfmade disc.
[/url]
No, I mean what caliper disc is this, on your HP2, HP2?

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Old 11-22-2010, 01:36 PM   #216
HP2
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"No, I mean what caliper disc is this, on your HP2, HP2?"

Oh Sorry,

The caliper is from Braking.
Radial, 4 Piston, 2 /36mm - 2 /32mm
320mm Disc.
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Old 11-24-2010, 09:36 AM   #217
AZ-Twin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruz
Thanks to Az-Twin for his help, these arrived last week.


Will be a couple of weeks before the suspension shop can get to work on them and put the cartridges into the OEM forks as they are moving shop.

Have to make the bottom of the OEM forks look like this.


Hopefully all will go well and they will make a decent front end for the bike.
How is the progress coming on these things? I have a line on a set of Shivers, we will see how it goes. I am interested in what springs you are going to use. My weight with gear is around 200-210LBS (~90-95KG).

If I get these forks I am wondering if I will need to take them to a suspension shop and have them worked over, or if I can do what is necessary, fluid/springs and the rest with the adjusters.

Any thoughts?
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I'm not real fast, but I do have a dog named Dakar!
97 M900, 07 G650 XChallenge,11 KTM 990 ADV R
2011 North up the CDR
Sierra Vista AZ to Paonia CO and Back through Moab UT

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Old 11-24-2010, 11:51 AM   #218
FinnDuro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ-Twin
I am interested in what springs you are going to use. My weight with gear is around 200-210LBS (~90-95KG).
If I get these forks I am wondering if I will need to take them to a suspension shop and have them worked over, or if I can do what is necessary, fluid/springs and the rest with the adjusters.
Any thoughts?
For the Xchallenge, I found that either 0.50 or 0.48 front springs work nicely on the Shivers, for my 'full-geared weight' of 95kg.


For revalving, I did it myself - not too difficult. But a suspension shop that actually knows their Marzocchis is surely a well spent money from your part.

I have the RXV Zokes on my garage, haven't looked into them yet, will be nice to see what shim stacks they came with from the (Aprilia specced) factory.
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Old 11-25-2010, 12:46 AM   #219
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The forks and shock are booked in for next week. I already have the Hyperpro springs in my oem forks so will use them. Kitted up I am around 110kg.

He is going to re-shim them for me at the same time and do some work on the Ohlins so hopefully by next weekend I will find a considerable improvement in the handling of the XCH.

If not them it will be put back to standard and the parts sold off.
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Old 11-26-2010, 10:25 AM   #220
AZ-Twin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FinnDuro
For the Xchallenge, I found that either 0.50 or 0.48 front springs work nicely on the Shivers, for my 'full-geared weight' of 95kg.


For revalving, I did it myself - not too difficult. But a suspension shop that actually knows their Marzocchis is surely a well spent money from your part.

I have the RXV Zokes on my garage, haven't looked into them yet, will be nice to see what shim stacks they came with from the (Aprilia specced) factory.
Thanks for the info Finn. You running 5wt oil?
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I'm not real fast, but I do have a dog named Dakar!
97 M900, 07 G650 XChallenge,11 KTM 990 ADV R
2011 North up the CDR
Sierra Vista AZ to Paonia CO and Back through Moab UT

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Old 11-28-2010, 05:50 PM   #221
Dagwood_55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ-Twin
Thanks for the info Finn. You running 5wt oil?
I just put in the Wilbers progressive spring, but left the old oil in it.

Should I have put in new 5wt oil?? Or what would be the benifet/difference in 5wt vs 7wt??
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Old 11-29-2010, 12:22 AM   #222
FinnDuro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dagwood_55
I just put in the Wilbers progressive spring, but left the old oil in it. Should I have put in new 5wt oil?? Or what would be the benifet/difference in 5wt vs 7wt??
Fork oil is not too expensive, I change it every season, once or twice. Old oil... unless you know for certain what amount there was, or what oil it was - I'd change it, and take good measurements.

I have used different weighted oils, from 3.5W - 5W - 7.5W in Shivers. For winter use, I tend to go with the thinnest oils, so 2-3.5W goes in. For normal summer use, with 0.48kg springs, I'm running 5W (with 120mm oil level from the top).


What fork oil works best for Shivers is somewhat debated issue. Hey, it's OIL- it's always debatable to the bitter end, right? :)

As a general rule of thumb, I've heard that: the lighter springs you have, the thinner oil you're better off using as a starting point. So, if you're running, say, 0.46kg fork springs, you'll want to start with 5W. And, with 0.50kg or more fork springs, you'll start experimenting from 7.5W. Then all kinds of varations with oil levels, valving and whatnot come to play, to confuse you more.


And by FAR the biggest difference of any fork tuning is made with shim stacks, aka valving.
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Old 12-01-2010, 05:20 PM   #223
AZ-Twin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP2 View Post
"PS guys, dont get confused between HP2 the motorcycle (crap forks) and HP2 the name of an ADVrider who did a successful marzocchi shiver transplant (good forks) onto his Xchallenge"

HP2,

I looked for your posts about the fork swap on the Xchallenge. I found this thread with no pictures, not sure if they got zapped in the forum upgrade, or if I can't see them for some other issue.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=454195

Anyway, I have a set of shivers on the way, and would like to know how difficult is was to get the axle clamps off the fork lower? Did you need any special tools, or just a little heat and they come right off. Also can you show a picture of the necessary modification to the axle clamp? I have not got my forks yet and can't find a good pic of the lower, not even in the Marzocchi 45 manual.

At this point in time I am trying to determine if I should do it myself, or haul it all off to a suspension place, there is a good one in Tucson.
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I'm not real fast, but I do have a dog named Dakar!
97 M900, 07 G650 XChallenge,11 KTM 990 ADV R
2011 North up the CDR
Sierra Vista AZ to Paonia CO and Back through Moab UT

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Old 12-01-2010, 09:07 PM   #224
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I'm gonna post a couple quotes from Rone's thread here. It has some good info on the shiver swap.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=568048


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rone View Post
Yesterday I was at my suspension specialst and he dismantled my forks.



With the exception of the cartridges and the wheel clamps, the original BMW fork and the Shiver are the same. To fit the cartridges from the Shiver into the original BMW fork, the wheel clamps need to spin out to fit the valves.

on the left the Aprilia wheel clamp and on the right the original BMW wheel clamp.


this valves need to fit at the bottom of the original BMW wheel clamps.


The travel of the Shiver Cartridges will be reduced with +/- 20mm so the travel will be +/- 280mm.



I just got a phone that everything is ready. First I go pick up everything and bring report back later.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rone View Post
The original wheel clamps are modified so the better cartridges could be fit to the original fork.



the adjustment for compression is now at the bottom.



the adjustment for rebound is now at the top.



The travel of 298.5 mm is reduced tot 280 mm so that the motorcycle is not too high for me.
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I'm not real fast, but I do have a dog named Dakar!
97 M900, 07 G650 XChallenge,11 KTM 990 ADV R
2011 North up the CDR
Sierra Vista AZ to Paonia CO and Back through Moab UT

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Old 12-02-2010, 04:59 AM   #225
FinnDuro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ-Twin View Post
Anyway, I have a set of shivers on the way, and would like to know how difficult is was to get the axle clamps off the fork lower? Did you need any special tools, or just a little heat and they come right off.


Here's some explanation on the OEM clamp removal, a lot of the details are originally explained to me by HP2, actually:

The axle clamps are threaded into the fork tubes, and have some pretty serious green locktite on the threads. In order to unthread them, you first need to locate and remove the small locking screw in the back of the axle clamp. Little bit of heating, and the small locking screw can be removed easily. Do not bypass this step, otherwise you will damage the threads.

Then you need to apply a good bit of heating to the axle clamps, in order to melt down the thread loctite stuff, and be able to unscrew the whole axle clamp off the fork tube. So, heat them up real good (ca. 200 degrees Celsius) first, and be really careful not to damage them at this point. I completely disassemled the forks, so only had the lower fork tube with the axle clamp in my hands/vice, when I heated them. Clean them up good, as well, because nearing 200 degrees celsius, the residue oil will create some smoke. Be careful.

When sufficiently hot, the axle clamp should unthread off pretty easy, so do not try to force it too much. If it doesn't start moving with only moderate force, heat it some more and try again. I used a screwdriver to hold the fork tube in a vice. The lower fork tube should have oil channel holes on the top part. Carefully put a long screwdriver or other smooth metal stick through those holes, and lock the screwdriver in a vice, so you can try to unthread the hot axle clamp off the fork tube, after you have heated it. Don't burn your fingers now!

The axle clamp removal should also be a task that many suspension shops do all the time, so consider having it done professionally, too, if you get a good price. It's not hard to do it yourself, though, just take care not forcing things too much.


The same clamp removal procedure has to be done to the Shiver fork axle clamps. Once you have them removed as well, then you have the perfect model of how you should have your BMW clamp machined for the compression valve.
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