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Old 12-03-2010, 03:02 AM   #226
dirty boar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrazyIvan View Post
Here's my missus' bike with 43mm wp's in it.



Before she tried:

48mm Super Enduro forks with clamps, she didn't like the turning circle...
My HP2 forks with the lower legs of the XC, no big improvement...

We ended up using 43mm WP forks (Husaberg), so we could keep the original triple clamps.

All you need to fabricate is the axle, the left axle clamp diameter is 1mm smaller. (You could machine the fork leg to fit the original axle).

To mount the brake caliper I used the brake caliper adapter of a KTM 950 SE.
interested on how these forks are going,and are they a great improvement over the original ones.because i am looking at some 43mm wp off a 02 ktm and doing the same .

dale
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Old 12-03-2010, 10:56 AM   #227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FinnDuro View Post
Here's some explanation on the OEM clamp removal, a lot of the details are originally explained to me by HP2, actually:

The axle clamps are threaded into the fork tubes, and have some pretty serious green locktite on the threads. In order to unthread them, you first need to locate and remove the small locking screw in the back of the axle clamp. Little bit of heating, and the small locking screw can be removed easily. Do not bypass this step, otherwise you will damage the threads.

Then you need to apply a good bit of heating to the axle clamps, in order to melt down the thread loctite stuff, and be able to unscrew the whole axle clamp off the fork tube. So, heat them up real good (ca. 200 degrees Celsius) first, and be really careful not to damage them at this point. I completely disassemled the forks, so only had the lower fork tube with the axle clamp in my hands/vice, when I heated them. Clean them up good, as well, because nearing 200 degrees celsius, the residue oil will create some smoke. Be careful.

When sufficiently hot, the axle clamp should unthread off pretty easy, so do not try to force it too much. If it doesn't start moving with only moderate force, heat it some more and try again. I used a screwdriver to hold the fork tube in a vice. The lower fork tube should have oil channel holes on the top part. Carefully put a long screwdriver or other smooth metal stick through those holes, and lock the screwdriver in a vice, so you can try to unthread the hot axle clamp off the fork tube, after you have heated it. Don't burn your fingers now!

The axle clamp removal should also be a task that many suspension shops do all the time, so consider having it done professionally, too, if you get a good price. It's not hard to do it yourself, though, just take care not forcing things too much.


The same clamp removal procedure has to be done to the Shiver fork axle clamps. Once you have them removed as well, then you have the perfect model of how you should have your BMW clamp machined for the compression valve.
Thanks for all the info Finn!!

I sent an email to Evan of Evan Steel performance in Tucson. I understand it is a top notch suspension shop, and close by which helps. They are at all the track days I attend and work on an AMA superbike, so my guess is he knows his stuff. I asked him about doing the necessary work along with machining the axle clamps. I will see what he says.
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Old 12-03-2010, 10:53 PM   #228
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Will get mine back this week but then I am away until the week after so won't know how they work.
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Old 12-04-2010, 03:58 PM   #229
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The WP48 suspension conversion went very well, a weekend away an all type of terrain and I am more than pleased with the result, handles like is should have in the first place, now tracks and responds confidently of ruts, corrugations, rocks, sand etc, much more compliant.

I am about to fit a 320mm front disc as the original KTM disc is way underpowered to pull the bike up confidently when you have a full load of fuel and luggage.
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Old 12-08-2010, 02:53 AM   #230
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320mm disc on and ready to test, tried last night but for the first time ever the bike would not start.

After she cranked over and failed to start I could hear a gurgling sound coming from the from TT tank, so opened gas tank caps on both tanks but still won't start, checked fuel taps on front tank, tried open and closed and won't start. Put gas tank caps back on and still won't start and now have the gurgling sound again.

Okay pull the TT tank off and presto starts straight away, checked all hoses and couldn't see a problem, put TT tank back on, reconnected the quick release fuel lines and started first time.

Got home from work today started first time, bugger don't you hate that really couldn't see anything wrong and first time this has ever happened.
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Old 12-08-2010, 03:36 AM   #231
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Hey, this is a forks thread, tell us about the forks.
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Old 12-08-2010, 04:52 AM   #232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruz View Post
Hey, this is a forks thread, tell us about the forks.

Be patient grasshopper
I might even post pics
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Old 12-08-2010, 07:17 AM   #233
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Okay
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Old 12-08-2010, 09:42 AM   #234
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I got a reply back from Evan Steel in Tucson. He said bring him the 4 forks plus fork oil and dust seals and he would be happy to do the work, and he has two machine shops he works with on a regular basis, so that is good. I do everything else myself, so I guess I will out source this. That almost guarantees I won't dick it up.

Looking at January some time to do the work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FinnDuro View Post
For the Xchallenge, I found that either 0.50 or 0.48 front springs work nicely on the Shivers, for my 'full-geared weight' of 95kg.

I still don't know what to do about springs. Anyone know what springs are in the Stock forks? I will get some help this weekend and get some good sag numbers. What should I be shooting for for my free sag and race sag (ride height per the chart below.)

Or should I just get some Hyper Pro progressinve springs and call it good?

Then once I get the Ohlins in the rear sorted I should be good.





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Old 12-10-2010, 07:25 AM   #235
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WP 4357 forks

WP 4357 forks

For anyone who is interested in doing the 43mm WP fork transplant (since they fit straight into the stock triple clamps) ... I have come across a brand new pair and have put them on ebay to see if there is much interest.

They are brand new so there is a reserve on them. But since brand new pairs of WP aftermarket forks tends to retail at north of 2000 pounds / 2500 EUR / 3000 USD, there is probably still a decent amount of value to be had from someone who specifically wants a set of these.

Note, as mentioned in posts above, to fit these on an XC you will still need to fabricate an axle and one or both wheel spacers, possibly more, depending on what front wheel you want to go with.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...#ht_678wt_1139
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Old 12-10-2010, 02:33 PM   #236
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26-20 mm reduction kit

For those considering fitting a set of 48mm WP forks from a KTM with a 26mm spindle size, KTM offer an axle reduction kit which allows these forks to be fitted with wheels which take the earlier 20mm spindle - same as the Xchallenge. This MAY allow you to use your original front wheel with the new forks. The part number is SXS03540400 and cost is 16.

Please be aware that I haven't tried this. You will still need yokes to fit the larger forks and are likely to need to make or modify wheel spacers and spindle.

I stumbled across this while researching another option. If anything comes of it I will let you know.
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Old 12-12-2010, 04:15 PM   #237
dirty boar
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researching options

anybody machined their

a/ stock bottom clamp to fit the 48mm WP by 2mm

B/ or the fork tubing by 2mm.

pros /cons of both options

a motorbike shop has a pair of factory 06 48mm WP just sitting there getting dust and is $1000 oz dollar a good price to pay.

then may look at the 950 se adapter for the brake caliper like crazyivan because the bolt spacing is the same as the 43mm ones and the reduction kit that jester posted.

dale
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Old 12-12-2010, 07:24 PM   #238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty boar View Post
anybody machined their

a/ stock bottom clamp to fit the 48mm WP by 2mm

B/ or the fork tubing by 2mm.

pros /cons of both options

a motorbike shop has a pair of factory 06 48mm WP just sitting there getting dust and is $1000 oz dollar a good price to pay.

then may look at the 950 se adapter for the brake caliper like crazyivan because the bolt spacing is the same as the 43mm ones and the reduction kit that jester posted.

dale
Dale,

I paid US $250 for my forks althought not "FACTORY" so whilst they are cheap you could do better than $1k, don't forget that will only be the start.

Keep us posted
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Old 12-13-2010, 12:38 AM   #239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty boar View Post
anybody machined their
a/ stock bottom clamp to fit the 48mm WP by 2mm
B/ or the fork tubing by 2mm.
pros /cons of both options
I would not machine the OEM BMW clamp to allow for WP 48mm tubes. There's not enough material there to trust it, oem 45mm diameter vs. 48mm WP's. If you want to retrofit WP's then go for WP clamps, and machine whatever necessary axle and spacers etc. to fit in your bmw, I say.
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Old 12-13-2010, 01:54 AM   #240
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i agree with finnduro

Even if you do that (and risk making the triples too thin), you are still going to have to manufacture an axle, and still have the problem of how to attach the wheel and brake caliper ...

Its actually easier to use the KTM triple clamps if you want to change forks ... because you can then just use stock KTM wheel parts.

A set of KTM triple clamps off ebay will not set you back too much.
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