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Old 11-26-2007, 04:30 AM   #61
CoyoteCowboy
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LORAC Company......now why didn't I think of that?

Thanks Curvy!!
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Old 11-26-2007, 09:41 AM   #62
Jinx
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Be very careful turning a Guzzi crank, They are nitrided for hardness, and it is very easy to remove this treatment when turning the journals undersize. I would consider finding a decent crank and bearings used. They have to be in decent shape of course, but you can run used bearings in a goose if they are within spec. I bought a small pile of good used bearings the last time Dr John was cleaning out his attic.

Gilardoni piston/cylinder sets are wonderful......but they have stopped making them. Hopefully temporarily. If you need a set, start looking now

here is the note from MG Cycles Website:

"SPECIAL NOTE: Currently we have NO Gilardoni piston/cylinder sets for any of the below models available. (9/27/2007). We are anticipating some more of the 88mm sets (MG301 and MG310) later this fall, but have no guarantees. We are accepting backorders for all the sets, and fill them on a first come first served basis, as we have seen some of the sets "trickle in" periodically over the summer. We also believe that all the sets will become available again in 2008. As such, prices listed below are reflective of our last costing, and no doubt will increase as the sets become available again. "

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Old 11-26-2007, 10:03 AM   #63
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Were the old ones nitrided? I didn't think so.

The nitrided treatment is a few thousandths thick "skin", so it is possible to have minor damage fixed. When I took my Breva's crank in to the shop, they were able to polish off the burnt bearing material but were unable to do anything but shine up the surface without resorting to diamond tools! Their computer told them it took something like 2 ten thousandths off. A hand held micrometer couldn't tell the difference.
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Old 11-28-2007, 07:09 PM   #64
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Lookin up her skirt.

The mains looked good.
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Old 11-29-2007, 01:55 PM   #65
radguzzi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Curvy
Lookin up her skirt.

The mains looked good.
Good deal Curvy... And a nice looking skirt it is....


If you get down to the rear main seal... You know about replacing all gaskets behind the flywheel, right... breather flange and all that...? The bottom two holes on the main bearing housing should be sealed also as they are through holes to the case were the others are not. Any of these can give the appearance of a rear main leaking after the rig is back together.. most frustrating.

Are you doing the 4mm hub and clutch plate upgrade or are those components good...?

Best,
Rob
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Old 12-01-2007, 09:28 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radguzzi
Are you doing the 4mm hub and clutch plate upgrade or are those components good...?
I'm not familar with the 4mm hub problem or the clutch upgrade. Tell me more.
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Old 12-01-2007, 06:30 PM   #67
radguzzi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Curvy
I'm not familar with the 4mm hub problem or the clutch upgrade. Tell me more.
There is not a 4mm hub problem... I upgrade to the 4mm hub from the stock 2mm when I do a clutch or if either the plate splines or the hub wears in a way as to be a problem.

What happens with these is the plates wear a couple of grooves into the hub for a couple of reasons... Mostly when the operators holds the clutch in at a stop light and that leads to excessive wear in normal operation. It makes itself evident by a slight grab in the clutch when taking off, just past that groove all is well again but that is about the worst place to have a clutch get grabby... ! Lugging the drive train also contributes to this premature wear.
So when a new hub goes on I use bonded plates also...

At assembly apply a LIGHT film of anti-seize on the hub and clutch plate innards and that will give the components a fighting chance of lasting for a 100K.

Let me know if you want a photo of a spent hub to see the grooves... pretty much though, if you have grooves on it, toss it 'cause it will grab.

You do not have to use the 4mm hub and plates if you know that the only operator will be you and you know how to prevent this wear, I just replace them as a matter of procedure, plus the 4mm hubs cost less...? Go figure.

Oh, one more thing, the nut on the hub and the O-rings will need to be replaced if you swap the hub... just 'cause.

For the clutch push rod use three conical seals that are shown in the tech manual or five or six o-rings to keep the tranny fluid from migrating down that rod and getting onto the clutch plates. Route the tranny vent up and under the seat exiting just past the battery compartment and behind the side cover. There will be no appreciable mist from it and it will keep the tranny happy, not building up pressure.

Best,
Rob


http://www.mgcycle.com/clutch.html
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Old 12-04-2007, 03:03 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Curvy



That sure looks familar.
That is a pretty neat comparison. Thanks for sharing your rebuild - looking forward to seeing the finished product!
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Old 12-19-2007, 05:08 PM   #69
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After seeing the condition of the rest of the motor I have been putting off cracking open the timing chest. No sense putting it off any longer.

It appears the chain tensioner hadn't been adjusted since Guido button'd her up at the factory. Notice the gap between the chain and the follower block.



Looks like a new chain and updated adjuster is in order.

http://www.harpermotoguzzi.com/timin...IN*%20ADJUSTER

I also bought myself a little early Christmas present in the form of a remote oil filter plate from Harper's called the outsider. It looks to be a nice piece of kit as they say.

You can see the oil filter tap at the bottom left.

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Curvy screwed with this post 12-20-2007 at 06:21 AM
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Old 12-19-2007, 05:16 PM   #70
HarveyMushman
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Some day I will be cool as Curvy.
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Old 12-19-2007, 06:08 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarveyMushman
Some day I will be cool as Curvy.

There is still time grasshopper.
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Old 12-30-2007, 05:46 PM   #72
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I haven't done much over the holidays other than put new bushings in the rockers. With a .003 press fit it was a pretty good task.

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Old 12-31-2007, 08:04 AM   #73
radguzzi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Curvy
I haven't done much over the holidays other than put new bushings in the rockers. With a .003 press fit it was a pretty good task.
Nice,
I've never pushed those in before... Did you use a plug to push them in with or a new bushing..? Ream them after for pin clearance or let them wear in...?

Cool...
Rob
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Old 12-31-2007, 09:12 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radguzzi
Nice,
I've never pushed those in before... Did you use a plug to push them in with or a new bushing..? Ream them after for pin clearance or let them wear in...?

Cool...
Rob
I made a piloted steel pin to push the old ones out and then I turned a .001 to .002 start about .100 back on one end and pushed the new ones in with a big vice. It was alot easier putting them in then it was getting them out. I plan on reaming or honing them to size to fit the pins. It depends on how much needs to come out of them. I haven't had a chance to measure them yet.
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Old 12-31-2007, 05:20 PM   #75
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great thread
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