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Old 05-23-2013, 05:38 AM   #59626
indypup
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107K on the cables? or the bike?
107K on bike. Only about 47K on these cables. I think I replaced them at about 60K last time.

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Originally Posted by ohioroadrat View Post
When you replace it make sure that it does not rest in the slot of the adjuster,that will cause it to fra like that.
Hmm, I'm not sure what you mean but I have service manual and will take a look at procedure again and make sure I'm doing it right. ;)
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Old 05-23-2013, 07:16 AM   #59627
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Anyone have any experience with that plasti-dip stuff they are doing to make new cars look old these days? It think it's kinda dumb on a car, but I was considering doing my Versys with it, mostly because the paint is absolutely flawless now and I'd like to kinda protect it from getting too scuffed up, plus the maroon just isn't my thing.

I've played with it some Matt. It's very easy to prep for, but the coating itself is so so. Avoid heat and high wear areas with it
It'll melt and char,or crack,peel,and rub off. If you don't mind rea
pplying it then no biggie. Also,you better like matte paint jobs.

As far as chemicals in it wrecking existing paint jobs..don't know that either. I've used it on bare metal. It's like a cheap half-assed powder coat IMO. It'll hold up,but not in an offroad setting from what I saw. Now all that said they could've came out with stronger versions of it since I used it years ago.

I'll check when I get home,but I might have some left. I have some Duracoat if you want to try that too and you have an airbrush or hvlp.

Two of the best coatings I've found for hard surfaces are a good epoxy or spray on bedliner. Duracoat would probably be top for flexible plastic bits for things like bike plastics.

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Old 05-23-2013, 09:18 AM   #59628
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Actually, the newer plastidip comes in gloss and even pearls. It is supposed to just go over the exiting paint after you clean it and apply a bonding agent, then when you are tired of it, it peels right back off.

Not gonna try bedliner or the like, because it fades, is heavy, and you can't remove it.
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Old 05-23-2013, 09:46 AM   #59629
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Me at the Hanging Rock 200

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Old 05-23-2013, 10:15 AM   #59630
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Actually, the newer plastidip comes in gloss and even pearls. It is supposed to just go over the exiting paint after you clean it and apply a bonding agent, then when you are tired of it, it peels right back off.

Not gonna try bedliner or the like, because it fades, is heavy, and you can't remove it.

They must've really changed it recently. When I used it surface prep was clean with alcohol then apply. No bonding agent was involved. I heard last they were working on a clearcoat. After my initial run with it,it didn't interest me much. If they made the coating stiffer that would definitely be beneficial to it in a whole host of forms. Before it was really rubbery,almost like soft tool handle coatings. If its upgraded to more of a plastic then I'd say try it.
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Old 05-23-2013, 12:50 PM   #59631
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Matt, I have used plastidip with very good results, the new stuff stay glossy and sets up pretty hard, just like plastic. As far as just peeling off I can't tell you about that, but I have had it on things that were really abused and it held up quite well. You can thin it and spray it if you need to, I've always just brushed it on or dipped the piece into it, very strong and the gloss holds for years. I would highly recommend it. Comes in a lot of colors.

Dave

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Old 05-23-2013, 01:12 PM   #59632
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Do you still have any left? I had big plans for that stuff if it worked right.
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Old 05-23-2013, 01:55 PM   #59633
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Do you still have any left? I had big plans for that stuff if it worked right.
Yea, I got about half a can left, if it didn't set up, it's black. I'll check it for you, you want me to start painting your DR with it?

Dave
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Old 05-23-2013, 01:57 PM   #59634
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Originally Posted by Gonzo_Matt View Post
Actually, the newer plastidip comes in gloss and even pearls. It is supposed to just go over the exiting paint after you clean it and apply a bonding agent, then when you are tired of it, it peels right back off.

Not gonna try bedliner or the like, because it fades, is heavy, and you can't remove it.
My advice is to leave it the factory color.

I think it looks nice. It'll likely look like rape -like your KLR250 - if you start trying to modify the color on the cheap.
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Old 05-23-2013, 02:07 PM   #59635
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My advice is to leave it the factory color.

I think it looks nice. It'll likely look like rape -like your KLR250 - if you start trying to modify the color on the cheap.
That's the whole point of the stuff, if you change your mind, the coating just peels off and you are left with an unmarred finish...https://www.dipyourcar.com/home.php.

I'm more concerned with keeping the factory paint in good condition and free from stone chips, scrapes etc.

ANd for the record, the first time I met you, you said my KLR looked , and I quote "Badass"
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Old 05-23-2013, 02:13 PM   #59636
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Originally Posted by Gonzo_Matt View Post
That's the whole point of the stuff, if you change your mind, the coating just peels off and you are left with an unmarred finish...https://www.dipyourcar.com/home.php.

I'm more concerned with keeping the factory paint in good condition and free from stone chips, scrapes etc.

ANd for the record, the first time I met you, you said my KLR looked , and I quote "Badass"
He was just being nice. He was nice to me too the first time we met.
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Old 05-23-2013, 02:14 PM   #59637
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Yea, I got about half a can left, if it didn't set up, it's black. I'll check it for you, you want me to start painting your DR with it?

Dave
No, I was going to use it for plastic repairs and possibly mold casts. Problem is the stuff I used was more like rubber/latex mix. Didn't work for crap on much of anything.

If I had my way, the Dr would have blue carbon fiber plastics on it now.
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Old 05-23-2013, 02:17 PM   #59638
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Yea Matt, check this website out, pretty much tells you everything you need to know and also sells the spray cans.

https://www.dipyourcar.com/home.php

Got a good video on doing wheels, and other stuff.


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Old 05-23-2013, 02:19 PM   #59639
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I really don't give a shit, the KLR was a stupid cheap bike, I disliked the dated graphics, so I spent $6 on Krylon fusion and changed it, spend 5 minutes cutting a stencil to Gonzo the tank, and it was done. I went with a flat color because I knew it was going to get beat.

On real world stuff, I can paint, quite well actually. My dad owned a body shop and was a custom painter for many years, and I shot my first car when I was 14. On a $1500 KLR in february, it's getting Krylon'd in an hour and we're callin 'er good.
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Old 05-23-2013, 02:20 PM   #59640
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No, I was going to use it for plastic repairs and possibly mold casts. Problem is the stuff I used was more like rubber/latex mix. Didn't work for crap on much of anything.

If I had my way, the Dr would have blue carbon fiber plastics on it now.
Well try what I got and see if it works for you.

Dave
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