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Old 04-28-2012, 08:38 AM   #1471
Claustrophobic64
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Wicked Sw Motech Bars are On! I Hope?!

For those of you that are about to tackle this job I offer my story........2008 Dero......Purchased the bars from Dual Sport Plus in Hamilton......



I have read alot of comments by the other inmates here on what to watch out for and how long of a job this is. my wrenching skills are getting better but there was no way I was going to get feel my way through it in 3 hours.....

First of all ......had to disassemble the monster a bit........that was something I knew I had to do but was leary......



Side cowls.....and rads weren't so bad at all....the ultimate goal is the two hex bolts behind the upper portion of the rad.....the right side has a large bundle of wires going right by it.



This is the left (easier ) side bolt.



Right side.......see the wiring bundle....

Once accessible I had to move that wiring out of the way by about an inch.......and at first it didn't want to move at all.....









JimmieA said you needed a good grip on the head of this ......and he was right......My tool almost busted!
And NO I couldn't get enough torque on it the way it is in the picture.....



Here is the Motech Bar in place on the left.....



And the one on the right......



Chewed at the tape a bit........When I put the replacement bolt in things weren't lined up as nice so it was a bit of a bitch to get her started.......Hold wiring away...push against the bolt while turning ....keep it lined up.....Might be my inexperience talking here but it was a pain...........until i got that wiring bundle the hell out of the way....!
Some of you seasoned veterans might be chuckling to yourself....but this is a big deal to us noobs.....and it did alot to boost my confidence..... I am not afraid to share my self induced pain....lol



Zoomed out a bit to see where we are......



Sorted out all the pieces ahead of time......All the parts I took off were laid out on a carpet with the bolts in a bowl..I have been burned before by not keeping everything together....Love the instructions.....it looks like you can just remove that bolt as easy as you please...the artist forgot to finish that picture with the rest of the bike....



I took the tank off because I was installing Oxford Hot Grips too........thats another story.....happy ending though...



So the tank wasn't all that bad.....the two removed pipes pull off when you reach under there......they came off pretty easily too......If I would of really reefed on the tank before removing them they probably would of slipped off on their own....

I thought for some reason the tank was full....and preceded to try and siphon off the excess.....which after having the flow quit about 5 times....and me drinking a few ounces ..I hefted the tank and realized it was pretty much empty and I am an idiot.....It sure looked full from the top...??? Close the petcocks!.....And watch out cause when you put the tank back on they line up with the bar bolts pretty good and you could either open them up by accident or break them...



Hey that's where the air filter is!.......Gotta go in there one day......



Once the upper under the cowl...behind the rad bars are on you can reassemble ....and make sure everything will fit......The back bolts on to the frame are pretty straight forward......I used medium loctite and torqued them down after I did a trial fit.They both have spacers behind them so don't let them fall some where into the dark recesses of the engine area.......I was glad the tank was off when I had to get those bolts in....easier to hold the spacer in place....

While fitting the bars I held them in place with those back bolts loose and just pulled the bar up to couple it with the front....the left side bar would sometimes catch on a brake line bracket and it's possible to leverage some force on it if you are not careful......Be careful while swinging the bar up to fit it....

The inside cowl covers have to go in without the bars mounted.......be careful with those little plastic quick screws?....i mangled a couple pushing them back in.....or are they supposed to replaced??



I keep thinking the right side is too far off the plastic compared to the other side??



See what I mean.....Do yours look like that.....?



Final tie in at the bottom was no problem ...even for me....



Everything back together and I managed not to wreck too many parts......Solid too....I can see why they are able to do their job....Hope this gives others some knowledge going in ....I am not saying how long it took but the end result justifies the time....Thanks all !
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Claustrophobic64 screwed with this post 04-28-2012 at 11:11 AM Reason: Shpelling iz Bad!
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Old 04-28-2012, 10:57 AM   #1472
OldSilverFox
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Claustrophibic64

Thanks for the description and pictures. I have the same bars on my bike and can inform that they do in fact work and provide good protection for the breakey bits.
The skid plate works well too, although you have to remove it for an oil change.
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Old 04-28-2012, 11:11 AM   #1473
Claustrophobic64
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Hey Mark! thanks!
Post a pic of your bike in case I see you out there somewhere......
Or email......I guess not everyone wants to pay for a smug mug account....!
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Old 04-28-2012, 11:12 AM   #1474
BIGASSDIRTRIDER100
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Looks good
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Old 04-28-2012, 11:19 AM   #1475
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Looks bad
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Old 04-28-2012, 12:13 PM   #1476
Claustrophobic64
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What changed in 7 minutes?
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Old 04-29-2012, 12:11 PM   #1477
jolly green giant
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I cannot speak about SW Motech engine bars, but as far as GIVI engine bars go they're much more easier to install, indeed without taking apart the bike. Apart from being solidly made, they look the dogs bollocks:


jolly green giant screwed with this post 04-29-2012 at 12:34 PM
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Old 04-29-2012, 06:48 PM   #1478
africa twin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Claustrophobic64 View Post
For those of you that are about to tackle this job I offer my story........2008 Dero......Purchased the bars from Dual Sport Plus in Hamilton......



I have read alot of comments by the other inmates here on what to watch out for and how long of a job this is. my wrenching skills are getting better but there was no way I was going to get feel my way through it in 3 hours.....

First of all ......had to disassemble the monster a bit........that was something I knew I had to do but was leary......



Side cowls.....and rads weren't so bad at all....the ultimate goal is the two hex bolts behind the upper portion of the rad.....the right side has a large bundle of wires going right by it.



This is the left (easier ) side bolt.



Right side.......see the wiring bundle....

Once accessible I had to move that wiring out of the way by about an inch.......and at first it didn't want to move at all.....









JimmieA said you needed a good grip on the head of this ......and he was right......My tool almost busted!
And NO I couldn't get enough torque on it the way it is in the picture.....



Here is the Motech Bar in place on the left.....



And the one on the right......



Chewed at the tape a bit........When I put the replacement bolt in things weren't lined up as nice so it was a bit of a bitch to get her started.......Hold wiring away...push against the bolt while turning ....keep it lined up.....Might be my inexperience talking here but it was a pain...........until i got that wiring bundle the hell out of the way....!
Some of you seasoned veterans might be chuckling to yourself....but this is a big deal to us noobs.....and it did alot to boost my confidence..... I am not afraid to share my self induced pain....lol



Zoomed out a bit to see where we are......



Sorted out all the pieces ahead of time......All the parts I took off were laid out on a carpet with the bolts in a bowl..I have been burned before by not keeping everything together....Love the instructions.....it looks like you can just remove that bolt as easy as you please...the artist forgot to finish that picture with the rest of the bike....



I took the tank off because I was installing Oxford Hot Grips too........thats another story.....happy ending though...



So the tank wasn't all that bad.....the two removed pipes pull off when you reach under there......they came off pretty easily too......If I would of really reefed on the tank before removing them they probably would of slipped off on their own....

I thought for some reason the tank was full....and preceded to try and siphon off the excess.....which after having the flow quit about 5 times....and me drinking a few ounces ..I hefted the tank and realized it was pretty much empty and I am an idiot.....It sure looked full from the top...??? Close the petcocks!.....And watch out cause when you put the tank back on they line up with the bar bolts pretty good and you could either open them up by accident or break them...



Hey that's where the air filter is!.......Gotta go in there one day......



Once the upper under the cowl...behind the rad bars are on you can reassemble ....and make sure everything will fit......The back bolts on to the frame are pretty straight forward......I used medium loctite and torqued them down after I did a trial fit.They both have spacers behind them so don't let them fall some where into the dark recesses of the engine area.......I was glad the tank was off when I had to get those bolts in....easier to hold the spacer in place....

While fitting the bars I held them in place with those back bolts loose and just pulled the bar up to couple it with the front....the left side bar would sometimes catch on a brake line bracket and it's possible to leverage some force on it if you are not careful......Be careful while swinging the bar up to fit it....

The inside cowl covers have to go in without the bars mounted.......be careful with those little plastic quick screws?....i mangled a couple pushing them back in.....or are they supposed to replaced??



I keep thinking the right side is too far off the plastic compared to the other side??



See what I mean.....Do yours look like that.....?



Final tie in at the bottom was no problem ...even for me....



Everything back together and I managed not to wreck too many parts......Solid too....I can see why they are able to do their job....Hope this gives others some knowledge going in ....I am not saying how long it took but the end result justifies the time....Thanks all !
I have the same bars on my bike and the distance off the plastic is the same on both sides not sure why mine are installed exactly the same as yours
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Old 05-03-2012, 05:10 AM   #1479
Two Plugs OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by africa twin View Post
I have the same bars on my bike and the distance off the plastic is the same on both sides not sure why mine are installed exactly the same as yours
Check. Idem here. Love the SW Motec bars. They are so much more solid than the givi copycat bars...

PS... Tip... please quote without the pictures...
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Old 05-08-2012, 09:59 PM   #1480
Kitimat KLR
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SW-Motech Bars - good report
- Welcome to the bruised knuckle club You certainly stripped the bike down ...far more than I did.
- I used a "regular" Allen Key as I couldn't get a T handle type in there with the rads still so close
- The alignment Left & Right is fairly equal with respect to clearance of the fairing ...certainly within a mm or two. The left & right side rear bolts are not symmetrical so it may look a little different

- You make a very good point re: petcocks ...first time I removed the tank I spilled everywhere.
- Of all my previous bikes this one has to be most difficult (tedious) to work on with so much to strip down

- With tank off, I changed to a K&N airfilter and wired the Oxford grips

- I can testify these bars work ...I bent the left side - no damage to fairing although the left footpeg did grind away. I replaced the Left side bar but didn't replace the bar up inside the radiator! ...I don't want to go in there again!

Now you've done the hard part....are you fitting panniers & top box?
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Old 05-25-2012, 01:54 PM   #1481
Leon MK3
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This picture was taken before my DakarDero get dirty....



And after one day enduro travelling in mountain Erymanthos in Greece we had plenty results of Greek nature...













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Old 05-27-2012, 12:17 AM   #1482
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Nice footage!

Me and 100 other Varadero Riders are enjoying another spectacular Varadero International Meeting (VIM) here in Tarragona, Catalonya, Spain. Video-Photo footage will follow soon via www.varadero-international.com
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Old 05-28-2012, 04:46 PM   #1483
DG K3 1000
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Problem mounting seat

Likely a dumb question but the '08 Varadero I bought has be baffled re seat mounting. Clearly there is the slot on the tank that it slides into, and the lock at the rear but there are also two 'hooks' (part of the plastic pan) on bottom of seat pan that should slide under the two loops on the frame but I can not get those two hooks and loops (don't how else to describe but hopefully you know what I mean) to mesh. The plastic 'hooks' end up on top of the loops they are supposed to go under - clearly prior owner had same problem as the 'hooks' have dents in them from sitting on top of the loops. The seat is a little on the loose side and alos about an inch higher than it should be.

Any suggestions on how to get the seat to mount the way it was designed?

Also have a second question. It has Givi crash bars that have some highway pegs but they are mounted very high and not useful. Tried to move lower but the crash bars stick out too far to get my foot on the pegs once they are in a better position for me. Any ideas of other Highway pegs that might either attach to the Givi bars? I have SW Moto bars on order and have same questions re them and highway pegs.

Thanks David
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Old 05-28-2012, 05:41 PM   #1484
oscar95
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Cool2 Wiring in 12 V accesories sockets

Dannyz , I bouhgt the truck box sockets from Can Tire., Drilled into the dash made holes ( can just reach the nuts from the under edges) Ran wires back to battery, there you go Bpob's your uncle. Picking distribution center to put better Fusing in lines and good to go. GPS has been in a year and NOP probs. When I figure oout how to post pics again i will put them up..Or PM me and I can send them to you. Oscar
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Old 05-28-2012, 08:25 PM   #1485
africa twin
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Any suggestions on how to get the seat to mount the way it was designed?

The problem is once the seat has been mounted incorrectly (above the bars) and sat on the plastic hooks under the seat get deformed and it is very hard to get them under the bars again. The best way to fix this is to heat the plastic hooks with boiling water while bending them back past their original position a bit so when you release them the are roughly correct (try using a channel lock pliers). If you've straightened them enough you'll just be able to get them under the bars. Once you have the seat mounted correctly you should try not to remove it for at least 1000km by which time the engine's heat and the riders weight will have settled the seat into its normal position. After this the seat will be much easier to remove and install.
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