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Old 05-02-2010, 03:00 PM   #2836
DRONE
Dog Chauffeur
 
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Tacoma, WA-ish
Oddometer: 3,346
Hey, Tankgirl, I guess the ankle healed up ok then. Congrats on the new ride. Probably better suited for the kinds of rides you were doing on the old bike. Enjoy!
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Old 05-03-2010, 01:43 AM   #2837
snooker
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Loveland, Colorado
Oddometer: 1,406
Springtime in the Rockies!

Here's some pics of the Colorado foothills near Loveland in mid-April. One day after my first set of knobbies ever was installed (D606 rear, TKC80 front), so my X is no longer a mud virgin...

These were taken up the Buckhorn canyon and Crystal Mountain road. All the forest access routes still have locked gates until the snow melts more, and it has snowed every WEEKEND since then practically!

So I'm going to Moab this week, riding the White Rim trail (130 mile gorgeous loop) and others.. will post pics then.


You may wonder about the windscreen - it is a Sportech 15" cruiser with quick release made from polycarbonate (GE Lexan). It works great! But more on it later, I have a ton of pics of my mods I'll be posting one of these days, and still farkling...

Oh yeah and I LOVE my Shoei Hornet DS helmet - fyi the local BMW stealership has a closeout for $299 only 3 left, (the only one in a Large was silver I believe)... PM me for info.
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Old 05-03-2010, 01:52 AM   #2838
snooker
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Loveland, Colorado
Oddometer: 1,406
Tribute Pics

Here is a tribute to Geoffrey:


And for you, urbanXcountry, with all your fabulous art gallery quality pics, here are a couple of sublime mud splatter shots... hope you like them...
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Old 05-03-2010, 09:00 PM   #2839
morabo
save the karoo!
 
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Praha, Czech rep.
Oddometer: 114
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRONE
How much mileage did you guys get from your OEM front brake pads?

I had to change mine at 6000 miles. Is that typical or, as I suspect, am I hard on the fronts?
I had to change mine at some 4000km (less then 2.5k mls) ... Replaced with AP racing (synthetic). They work much better, one-finger braking is now sufficient. And after another 12000km - 7.5k mls (16000km overall) these pads still look quite well. And recently I've replaced the rear ones (at some 15.5k km) with AP as well.
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Old 05-03-2010, 09:30 PM   #2840
Somber
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Oklahoma City
Oddometer: 349
Bluhduh

my fronts brake pads were history at about 5k - I ran them way longer than I should have because I wasn't paying attention thinking they'd still be fine at that point... I weigh way too much, and I ride it like I stole it, so:

*I eat tires rear TKCs in 3k or less miles
*I killed the rear sprocket in 6.5k-ish miles
*I vaporized the OEM front brake pads in 5k, should have changed them at 4k

and don't even ask what my gas mileage is, I don't keep track because I would just depress myself, but let me assure you that the unofficial average I can't stop my brain from estimating when I refill is nowhere near what most people here claim...
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Old 05-04-2010, 10:25 AM   #2841
DRONE
Dog Chauffeur
 
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Tacoma, WA-ish
Oddometer: 3,346
OEM Shock Mod for '09's - $150

The Hyperpro, Ohlins and Wilbers aftermarket shocks appear to be great products, but for me just too spendy to pull the trigger. My biggest complaint about the rear suspension wasn't so much the shock performance, but the weak spring. The OEM spring is about 11kg I think and just not heavy enough for me. To compensate, all last season I rode with the preload cranked all the way and with the rebound damping cranked to about 75%. What I got was a very harsh ride. And I was still bottoming out on rough gravel roads and would even bottom out on pavement if I hit a hard dip mid-curve while leaned over.

My forks were OK since I had swapped out those springs for a heavier set back when I first got the bike.

Solution? A heavier shock spring. I called around and nobody seemed to have an off-the-shelf spring. So I called John at Moto-Pro Suspensions --this is a local suspension shop near Seattle--and he agreed to do a custom shock spring for me.

After the shock arrived via UPS at his shop, John discovered that the OEM shock (made by Sachs, BTW) is so short, he needed to design a special component for his spring compressor just to service the shock. He got this made at a local machine shop. Then, once he got the spring off, he was able to get the measurements and order the spring I wanted (15kg) from his supplier who winds custom springs from scratch.

Total cost $150 plus shipping.

I'd post a pic except there's nothing to see--the new spring looks exactly like the old spring. But ride quality is WAY different! I've reset both the preload and the rebound damping to the middle of the range and now my rear suspension is much more rider-friendly for ordinary riding, while I'm confident I'll be able to push the bike harder on rough stuff without fear of bottoming out. Must admit though that I just got this done and have not yet taken the bike into the woods.

Anyway, I was the '09 XCountry test mule for Moto-Pro, but now that's out of the way, John says he can turn around an order for a custom spring from any of you guys in about three weeks for $150.

I'm not getting a kickback or anything, but wanted to mention this option. Especially for guys like me who were in high school the last time the bathroom scale read under 200. How big am I? I don't like posting specifics, but here's a pic of a huge guy who looks a lot like me on a little tiny motorcycle that looks a lot like mine--



You'll notice that I'm flatfooting the bike with my knees at a good bend even though I have a raised seat, the taller forks, and the rear shock height adjustment all the way up!
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DRONE screwed with this post 05-04-2010 at 06:20 PM
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Old 05-04-2010, 05:17 PM   #2842
muddyrabbit
Lost Boy
 
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Fugawee Land.
Oddometer: 3,650
Aahhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I don't know what's wrong but my clutch is sticking inside the motor. At first I thought the cable was sticking but it got bad VERY fast. Ended up disconecting the cable at the lever which allowed me to use my multi tool at the engine to get the clutch engaged, then pull the clutch lever to trip the sensor so the starter would crank while in gear and duck walking the bike, and rode home with no clutch!
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Old 05-04-2010, 06:10 PM   #2843
MasterSao
n00b
 
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Joined: Apr 2009
Oddometer: 7
custom painted xcountry!

Hi everyone! the bike original color was yellow which i didnt like, i had the tank, and the tanks side panels, the front fender and also the rim around the headlight. the tank and the fender were painted to match the color of the frame, and the side panels and headlight rim to match the swingarm. what do you guys think??



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Old 05-04-2010, 06:28 PM   #2844
DRONE
Dog Chauffeur
 
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Tacoma, WA-ish
Oddometer: 3,346
I think I want to move to wherever you live. Man, that looks nice!

And and the bike looks cool too!
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Old 05-04-2010, 06:46 PM   #2845
682202
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: in the middle
Oddometer: 219
The bike looks great.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterSao
Hi everyone! the bike original color was yellow which i didnt like, i had the tank, and the tanks side panels, the front fender and also the rim around the headlight. the tank and the fender were painted to match the color of the frame, and the side panels and headlight rim to match the swingarm. what do you guys think??



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Old 05-04-2010, 09:51 PM   #2846
derder
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Joined: Jan 2009
Location: Bellingham, WA
Oddometer: 56
Looks good, down to business with no fluff
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Old 05-05-2010, 12:25 AM   #2847
lewiss66
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Joined: Jan 2008
Location: French Alpes
Oddometer: 343
Looks nice. How did you manage to paint all of that parts?
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Old 05-05-2010, 03:19 AM   #2848
uxc
adventure nerd
 
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Joined: Jun 2007
Oddometer: 1,340
Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterSao
what do you guys think??


That looks like it should be to 2010 model released by BMW.
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Old 05-05-2010, 04:05 AM   #2849
4strokn
Wanderer
 
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Joined: May 2009
Location: Down Under
Oddometer: 49
THere is a design fault with the clutch housing. The splined shaft that engages the clutch chews away at the clutch housing causing it to stick and jam. I have just had mine sorted under warranty.

Some details off the recall and parts required that motojc passed onto me.

Service detail:

...clutch lever hard to pull in, bike walks when clutch disengaged, almost impossible to find neutral. Inspected Cable and found freeplay maxed out at lever adjuster and spine adjustment at cover. Inspected cable length, ok. Removed Clutch access cover and found tooth missing on pivot arm operates clutch plates. Searched bulletins and measures, found PUMA Measure US-22898888-02 ordered all necessary parts...

Parts:
Needle sleeve: T99L00N
Operating Shaft: T21500
Set of clutch Disks: T212A2
Release Bearing: T21500
Shaft Seal: T99DooTW
Gasket: T99D00TG
Clutch Rel. Fork Lever: T21500
Needle Sleeve: T99L00N
New design clutch housing


Hope this helps as there is not a lot of info out there about this problem.




Quote:
Originally Posted by muddyrabbit
I don't know what's wrong but my clutch is sticking inside the motor. At first I thought the cable was sticking but it got bad VERY fast. Ended up disconecting the cable at the lever which allowed me to use my multi tool at the engine to get the clutch engaged, then pull the clutch lever to trip the sensor so the starter would crank while in gear and duck walking the bike, and rode home with no clutch!

4strokn screwed with this post 05-05-2010 at 04:17 AM
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Old 05-05-2010, 10:02 AM   #2850
snooker
AttitudeIsEverything
 
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Loveland, Colorado
Oddometer: 1,406
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4strokn
THere is a design fault with the clutch housing. The splined shaft that engages the clutch chews away at the clutch housing causing it to stick and jam. I have just had mine sorted under warranty.

Some details off the recall and parts required that motojc passed onto me.

Service detail:

...clutch lever hard to pull in, bike walks when clutch disengaged, almost impossible to find neutral. Inspected Cable and found freeplay maxed out at lever adjuster and spine adjustment at cover. Inspected cable length, ok. Removed Clutch access cover and found tooth missing on pivot arm operates clutch plates. Searched bulletins and measures, found PUMA Measure US-22898888-02 ordered all necessary parts...
I don't have this problem but on my '07 Xco when stopped at a stop sign (usually first thing in the morning after bike has sat a long time), when I let out the clutch lever to engage the clutch in 1st gear, it gives a lurch and a big aaaaawwwwk squeal sound. I only does it from a stop, in 1st, not higher gears, and I don't think it does it after riding awhile.

Is this related to the problem you describe? I have 1 month left on warranty is there anything I can tell the dealer to fix this?

Also your note said "searched and found PUMA..." was this the dealer talking or is there some way WE can do likewise to find issues/solutions?
thanks!
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