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Old 01-15-2011, 07:40 AM   #421
eeore39648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jud View Post
Your XR650L makes around 185-190 watts at max, lower rpm less. I have a XR650L too and it also has grip heaters. If I run both the vest {vest uses around 20watts less} and the grips on high it will eventually run the battery down. I have actually drawn the battery down to the point where it would not start the bike on my previous DR650 {which has a little bit more current to draw from}. It had heated grips, I was running a vest and it was a night ride so I was using brights alot and I was constantly hitting brakes and lighting up that brake light. After about 4-5hrs of that type riding with the grips and vest on high I shut it off and it didn't have enough to crank the engine.

Long story short, you can't run both the grips and the vest on high. Even if you are not running grips, you have a jacket that uses slightly more current than my vest so I wouldn't run it on high all the time unless you don't mind experimenting on that issue.
Thanks for the info. I will only be running the heated liner, for now. This info shores up my calculations. I think I will be fine. If I do have issues, I think I will replace the battery, with one of those that are used on 4 wheelers, that run winches, and other assessories. I checked with my local battery supply warehouse. A battery, with double the cold cranking amps, can be had for about $60 plus tax, and the old core.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HaChayalBoded View Post
Swap all your lights to LED and swap the headlight to HID. HID and LED bulbs are pretty cheap nowadays. You can swap everything for under $100. That should get you an extra 55, maybe 65 watts. Then you can get the 65w heated liner.
I have seriously considered this option. I am trying to find a local supplier. LED's are New, I dont trust online promises, at this point. Maybe later. Autozone carries the 1156R and 1157R bulbs, the R stands for Red. I tried it on my L, it was not bright enough, stock incadescent was far brighter. Being that I bought it local, I was able to return it for a refund.
Hell, also change the front blinker\running lights to only be blinkers. Should save ya even more.
Here is what I really like, if I were to do all with the LED swap. I like the idea of the turn signals acting as marker lights, for safety and visibility.
Signalminder!.
https://www.kisantech.com/view_produ...p?product=SM-2
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Old 01-15-2011, 10:56 AM   #422
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Originally Posted by eeore39648 View Post
Thanks for the info. I will only be running the heated liner, for now. This info shores up my calculations. I think I will be fine. If I do have issues, I think I will replace the battery, with one of those that are used on 4 wheelers, that run winches, and other assessories. I checked with my local battery supply warehouse. A battery, with double the cold cranking amps, can be had for about $60 plus tax, and the old core.


Here is what I really like, if I were to do all with the LED swap. I like the idea of the turn signals acting as marker lights, for safety and visibility.
Signalminder!.
https://www.kisantech.com/view_produ...p?product=SM-2

A battery with more cca might not help too much unless you simply want to have a battery that will take longer to run down which isn't the best solution in my book. You will have to look for battey with more amp or some list it as amp/hrs which is different than a battery's CCA. For the most part, a battery with significantly longer amp amp/hr rating will probably be significantly larger unless it a totally different technology than the regular ole lead acid batteries. Maybe the new lithium batteries might be different but I know most of them don't like going below 8 volts and don't recover if they do. A larger stator that puts out more watts or saving wattage by using LEDs would be the better solution I think.
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Old 01-15-2011, 03:44 PM   #423
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Originally Posted by eeore39648 View Post
Here is what I really like, if I were to do all with the LED swap. I like the idea of the turn signals acting as marker lights, for safety and visibility.
Signalminder!.
https://www.kisantech.com/view_produ...p?product=SM-2
I kinda like this setup better.
http://electricalconnection.com/othe...g/tsk-main.htm
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Old 01-15-2011, 04:37 PM   #424
eeore39648
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Originally Posted by Jud View Post
A battery with more cca might not help too much unless you simply want to have a battery that will take longer to run down which isn't the best solution in my book. You will have to look for battey with more amp or some list it as amp/hrs which is different than a battery's CCA. For the most part, a battery with significantly longer amp amp/hr rating will probably be significantly larger unless it a totally different technology than the regular ole lead acid batteries. Maybe the new lithium batteries might be different but I know most of them don't like going below 8 volts and don't recover if they do. A larger stator that puts out more watts or saving wattage by using LEDs would be the better solution I think.
Yes your right cca might not help. But I think more amp/hours, would do me fine. I dont plan to need the extra power All the time!
The guy did mention the battery was not the old, add the acid after you buy it type. And that it had some new sort of technology.
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Old 01-16-2011, 10:33 AM   #425
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I went riding yesterday for the first time with my synergy jacket and gloves in high 30 degree weather on my WR250R. I was able to stay out for over 3 hours and covered about 120 miles. Some of that was at highway speeds and I was able to stay pretty warm. Low seemed pretty warm at first but I needed medium later on in the day. I could not really feel the heat in the gloves on low but my hands got cold if I turned them off. I could feel the heat on the back of my hands on medium though. My toes did get a little cold by the end.
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Old 01-22-2011, 07:04 PM   #426
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Just used mu new Synergy vest with a collar on a 100 mile snow loop and it was sooo toasty. This is my first piece of heated gear and now I'm a believer. I've been off the bike for 5 hours and and I still fell the warmth from the vest (wait a minute - I might be cooked). It was 30 to 40 F today and I never felt too cold at all. My fingers were somewhat chilled but much warmer than without the vest.

All in one package, fast and easy. Warm core = warmer hands
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Old 01-24-2011, 12:42 PM   #427
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I have used my liner in 30 degree temps, the last week. Low seems to do me fine. Good to know medium and high are available.
I wish i had got one size smaller. Other than that very pleased, so far its the best thing i have bought for winter riding.
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Old 01-31-2011, 02:55 AM   #428
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Use mine yesterday as well. Temps down to 32F. Never had it set higher than low. Excellent piece of equipment.
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Old 02-02-2011, 05:03 AM   #429
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I took a spill Saturday, while wearing my liner, without a jacket. Bonehead move I know.
Imangled the out nylon, but not to much tio the stuffing. I took the jacket to a tailor, for repair. I hope it doesn't effect the performance of the heating ability.
This liner makes riding in cold temps, reassuring, that if you start to get cold, you have the option to warm up!
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Old 02-02-2011, 08:37 AM   #430
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I would have made sure it worked before spending a dime to have it sewn up.
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Old 02-02-2011, 10:36 AM   #431
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Would it be safe to say they finally figured out how to make a reliable controller.

After 3 replacement controllers my liner just hangs in the garage. I would like to have my passengers be able to use it.
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Old 02-02-2011, 10:55 AM   #432
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Originally Posted by Charleetho View Post
Would it be safe to say they finally figured out how to make a reliable controller.

After 3 replacement controllers my liner just hangs in the garage. I would like to have my passengers be able to use it.
I forget who makes it but somebody makes a plug that shorts the Synergy connector (probably mentioned somewhere earlier in this thread) and then you can leave the Tourmaster controller at home and just use a Warm-n-Safe Controller instead. It's the only way to be sure you won't be left out in the cold. Both I and a riding buddy went that route.
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Old 02-02-2011, 12:27 PM   #433
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I forget who makes it but somebody makes a plug that shorts the Synergy connector (probably mentioned somewhere earlier in this thread) and then you can leave the Tourmaster controller at home and just use a Warm-n-Safe Controller instead. It's the only way to be sure you won't be left out in the cold. Both I and a riding buddy went that route.
I noticed it at motorcycle superstore the other day.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...M-Adapter.aspx
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Old 02-02-2011, 01:34 PM   #434
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I got the adapter and WnS heattroller and did feel like I got much heat out of it. Eventually bought a Gerbing to use with the heattroller. The gerbing is sweet.

I don't want to invest in another heattroller if I can get the FG controller replaced. Though that new wireless heattroller looks pretty cool.
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Old 02-02-2011, 01:55 PM   #435
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I kind of seems like to me that less people are complaining about the broken controllers. I hope that they are better made now because I just bought a set. Only time will tell if I will be left out in the cold. I might just carry around my extra glove controller just in case. It is of course not the same as the jacket conlroller, but at least I can have warm hands.
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