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Old 10-29-2009, 06:51 PM   #1621
eakins
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so all you rsw fork brace guys coming of of the woodwork...
got a comment on my question???
i'm close to getting a superbrace for the xr4.

Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins
with that rsw brace,
how well do your fork boots stay attached?
looks like only a small clamping area of the upper fork tube is left exposed (assuming you mount the brace up as high as possible) for the boot to clamp to. OR do you use neoprene boots which might clmap easier.

i like how the superbrace design has an intergrated new lip for the boot.
http://www.superbrace.com/proddetail.asp?prod=2258

the rsw is much cheaper.

got pics???
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Old 10-29-2009, 11:48 PM   #1622
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins
so all you rsw fork brace guys coming of of the woodwork...
got a comment on my question???
i'm close to getting a superbrace for the xr4.
Here's mine.




The boot clamps to the fork brace. Is this what you're asking? It's never come loose in 6yrs. Pardon the caked on dirt by the way!


Rman237 screwed with this post 10-29-2009 at 11:57 PM
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Old 10-30-2009, 02:09 AM   #1623
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yep. thanks for the pic.
but i don't see a lip in the brace for the boot to clamp to. like the superbrace has.



the boot looks to clamp to the upper part of the lower fork leg.
my question was how much of the upper part of lower fork leg is exposed after the brace is clamped on? basicly, if you pulled up the boot in that closeup, how much of the lower leg would we see?
from your picture, it looks like we're seeing in to the upper fork slider through the boot hole, so i'm guessing maybe a 1/4" of the lower leg is above the brace. i also see there is adequate tire clearance for this position the brace is mounted. obviuosly you could mount it down a little lower, but no higher or you'd have no place to clamp the boots. looks good.

on the other hand superbraces brace appears to be machine to it sits on the top lip of the lower fork legs & thus the upper lips of the brace are needed as a place for the boots to clamp to. this would make the boots even more scrunched up than the rsw design. in their instructions, they say to cut the top portion off the factory boots so as they are not scruntched up, though i fail to see how the top will clamp properly as it's tappered in. without that part your left trying to clamp tight the wide part of the accordian.

on another note. anyone found shorter boots or are neoprene the only way to go if you don't want all the bunched up look of the factory boots.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rman237
Here's mine.




The boot clamps to the fork brace. Is this what you're asking? It's never come loose in 6yrs. Pardon the caked on dirt by the way!

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eakins screwed with this post 10-30-2009 at 02:21 AM
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Old 10-30-2009, 04:07 AM   #1624
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins
yep. thanks for the pic.
but i don't see a lip in the brace for the boot to clamp to. like the superbrace has.



the boot looks to clamp to the upper part of the lower fork leg.
my question was how much of the upper part of lower fork leg is exposed after the brace is clamped on? basicly, if you pulled up the boot in that closeup, how much of the lower leg would we see?
from your picture, it looks like we're seeing in to the upper fork slider through the boot hole, so i'm guessing maybe a 1/4" of the lower leg is above the brace. i also see there is adequate tire clearance for this position the brace is mounted. obviuosly you could mount it down a little lower, but no higher or you'd have no place to clamp the boots. looks good.

on the other hand superbraces brace appears to be machine to it sits on the top lip of the lower fork legs & thus the upper lips of the brace are needed as a place for the boots to clamp to. this would make the boots even more scrunched up than the rsw design. in their instructions, they say to cut the top portion off the factory boots so as they are not scruntched up, though i fail to see how the top will clamp properly as it's tappered in. without that part your left trying to clamp tight the wide part of the accordian.

on another note. anyone found shorter boots or are neoprene the only way to go if you don't want all the bunched up look of the factory boots.
It appears that I'm mistaken, I'll try to remove the lower boot later and post another pic. As far as clearances and such go, there's no problems at all. The superbrace seems to be machined in a fashion with a lip as to lay on the upper tube causing the boot to be mounted higher up. The other "lip" would be the flange that the boot would have to go over to clamp on. In that case the boot would have to be cut for the diameter to match the flange. Right??? If you don't mind my saying, the superbrace seems like overkill.

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Old 10-30-2009, 07:00 AM   #1625
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Hey Bill, after installing the RSW I have about 2 zip ties width to secure my neoprene fork covers. Zip ties did not hold up well, but using a hose clamp secured them even with deep fork compressions. I hope that helps. R.
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Old 11-02-2009, 01:18 AM   #1626
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rando
Hey Bill, after installing the RSW I have about 2 zip ties width to secure my neoprene fork covers. Zip ties did not hold up well, but using a hose clamp secured them even with deep fork compressions. I hope that helps. R.
Im considering switching to neoprene instead of the stock boots, so a few questions here:

Q: Does the RSW and the stock boots go well together? RSW say so on their webpage, anyone tried?

Im thinkning of converting to neoprene (that should be fairly easy) and mount hard plastic fork protectors like on a USD fork, but on the upper part. I seem to recall a forkbrace that was better suited for this from earlier in this thread.
Q: Anyone tried plastic fork protectors with the RSW fork brace?
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Old 11-02-2009, 06:13 AM   #1627
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Svart
Q: Anyone tried plastic fork protectors with the RSW fork brace?
I'll get a pic later today so you can see..stay tuned
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Old 11-02-2009, 06:56 AM   #1628
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rman237
It appears that I'm mistaken, I'll try to remove the lower boot later and post another pic. As far as clearances and such go, there's no problems at all. The superbrace seems to be machined in a fashion with a lip as to lay on the upper tube causing the boot to be mounted higher up. The other "lip" would be the flange that the boot would have to go over to clamp on. In that case the boot would have to be cut for the diameter to match the flange. Right??? If you don't mind my saying, the superbrace seems like overkill.
I pulled the lower boot for a close up of the RSW. The boot obviously clamps to the fork. Again, it's never come loose.

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Old 11-02-2009, 11:55 AM   #1629
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rman237
I pulled the lower boot for a close up of the RSW. The boot obviously clamps to the fork. Again, it's never come loose.

did the top of your fork leg become rusted? (i thought the fork leg was alloy)
after you started using the rsw? the rust loooks like it starts just above the camping area of the lower fork boot & is from water that is pooling in that area.
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Old 11-02-2009, 11:58 AM   #1630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rando
Hey Bill, after installing the RSW I have about 2 zip ties width to secure my neoprene fork covers. Zip ties did not hold up well, but using a hose clamp secured them even with deep fork compressions. I hope that helps. R.
you use full legnth or shorty neoprenes? do they sag over time. which brand?
do they collect/hold water around the fork seal area???


rman,
is there center tire clearance to drop down the brace some where it mounts?
seems to be you have about 1.5" which is more than enough. knob clearnace is the only issue & be aware the tire grows some at speed. mud will be sliced back by the brace & a rock coming around is gonna hit either way. i'd say you have 1/4 to 1/2 inch of room to drop the brace on the leg & thus provide better rain drainage. obviously the rsw brace can only go down so far then it hits that widder flanged part of fork leg.

seems like if the brace was mounted a little lower, then the factory boot lower drain holes would be low enough to drain water from the top of the fork leg/fork seal area. pooling water in this area is not good. think about trying to change out fork seals & rust down the road. i've read about this issue over at TT. it's an issue to be addressed. many smear the area around the seal/lower leg with grease, keeping the boot clamp area grease free and then clamp the boot down well. some water always pools in the frok seal cavity (& evaporates) but i think your drain hole location is causing even more to collect than normal.

if you look at the stock location for the fork boots, it down much lower on the fork leg and is clamped to the white molded plastic assy. some pooling water here will not be rusting the plastic piece.

i'd love to see some detail of a superbrace mounted. unless that design has some way for the water to drain out the bottom, it looks to be even worse as far as pooling water on the top of the lower leg.
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eakins screwed with this post 11-02-2009 at 12:22 PM
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Old 11-02-2009, 12:29 PM   #1631
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jet123
Post some pics to help with that research...

You can also just fill them to see what their capacity is...

I went with the Acerbis (5.2gallon?) as I tend to out ride the stock tank in a day. And I'm not so into performance that the extra weight bothered me (6' and 215lb). If it's a small day, just don't fill it all the way up.
there is always a balance with any smaller bike of gas weight vrs riding range.
a 7.9 gallon aqualine is avail for the dr650.
i choose the ims 5 gallon see thru for my dr.
fyi, anyone looking for the 650 DS version of a xr4, a suspension upgraded (a must) dr650 rides just like a bigger version of a xr4. it has the same type of oil cooled, screw nut valve adjusted dead relaible engine as the xr. it has a very beefy rear subframe and can handle alot of luggage weight. they've been riden all over the world.



i also would outride my stock tank range and be in remote western areas.
i felt the 4 gallon see thru ims tank was the best balance of range/weight & tanksize/fit for an xr4. after 4 gallons of gas (aprox 175mi), i'm ready to give my butt a rest for awhile.
http://www.justgastanks.com/store/in...roducts_id=211

stock


4 gal ims - carries volume/weight down lower than clarke.


3.8 clarke - looks like stock from the side, but has more volume/weight up high.


5.8 acerbis - the big one
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Old 11-02-2009, 02:27 PM   #1632
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I think the IMS is the best option also but if you have to go the distance then the only choice is the Acerbis.

I've seen a number of people posting on fork braces and although I have never tried one I bet there is still a big flex issue when comparing them to inverted forks. There are plenty of used bikes on the market and i'm sure you can either part one out or find a pair of forks reasonably easy. That being said it's just a matter of going to the machine shop and doing some homework. The payoff is HUGE and it turns the trail bike into something that can acutally handle whoops or desert bashing. The XR4 is by no means a technological wonder but we all like it that way, untill things start flexing. Anyone thinking about a fork brace should really think about the next level.
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Old 11-02-2009, 02:34 PM   #1633
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acerbis
Anyone thinking about a fork brace should really think about the next level.
well said.

the xr is what it is, an outdated, acient design, that still keeps going. its like the energizer bunny of dirt bikes. i love mine but i dont expect much out of it. it always starts, can sit in the corner for months without issues, and in a pinch will always get me where i need to go. its my definition of a perfect back-up/community bike.

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Old 11-02-2009, 02:53 PM   #1634
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acerbis
I think the IMS is the best option also but if you have to go the distance then the only choice is the Acerbis.

I've seen a number of people posting on fork braces and although I have never tried one I bet there is still a big flex issue when comparing them to inverted forks. There are plenty of used bikes on the market and i'm sure you can either part one out or find a pair of forks reasonably easy. That being said it's just a matter of going to the machine shop and doing some homework. The payoff is HUGE and it turns the trail bike into something that can acutally handle whoops or desert bashing. The XR4 is by no means a technological wonder but we all like it that way, untill things start flexing. Anyone thinking about a fork brace should really think about the next level.
well a properly valved/sprung traditional catridge fork w/ a brace works as well as usd forks and can be more reliable as you don't have downward oil forces putting pressure on oil seals nor do you have the vunerable fork sliders down near all the things that can trash them.

my idea of a successfull offroad ride is to ride to all hell and come back with the bike still working. the xr4 seems to accomplish more than ANY other bike i've come across. works for me and i don't mind kicking it to start.

my buddy with a wr450f on rides has dealt with overheating, leaking forks, other things.
granted he has more "technology" on me. yet... i start it, ride it, ride home.
we both have a great time. when done, he goes off to the garage & i put my bike away till the next time.
if i'm in the garage working, it's for fun upgrades & tweaks, not oh shit what's wrong now.

i own a strom and dr for the same reasons.

one day i may upgrade to a FI woods bike & still keep the xr.
the new 390 husaberg is the most interesting thing on the market imo.
i also have a dealer in my hometown.
http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/131/43...irst-Ride.aspx
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Old 11-02-2009, 07:35 PM   #1635
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unlike some of you guys out there, I don't have the sleeved boot that covers the down tubes..I have the regular dust seals with the SRC slider covers..when I bought this XR ten years ago, this is how it came..I have replaced fork seals twice in ten yrs





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