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Old 06-22-2011, 06:52 PM   #3526
Tukata
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Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Woodstock, GA
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Anyone have a Wet weight for an E-START 400 conversion....
Doing some math in my head. Preferably:

Bash plate
Pipe
Bark Busters
Stock tank

Just trying to get close
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What ever happens to be in the stable at the current time.
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Old 06-22-2011, 07:00 PM   #3527
AwfulRider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tukata View Post
Anyone have a Wet weight for an E-START 400 conversion....
Doing some math in my head. Preferably:

Bash plate
Pipe
Bark Busters
Stock tank

Just trying to get close
I don't know what mine weighs, but it sure is awesome!
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Old 06-22-2011, 07:11 PM   #3528
DrLewall
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Location: Drakes Creek, AR
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a museum piece? Way too clean to be a dirt bike!
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Old 06-23-2011, 12:17 AM   #3529
Luke
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Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Idiotville, OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tukata View Post
Anyone have a Wet weight for an E-START 400 conversion....
Doing some math in my head. Preferably:

Bash plate
Pipe
Bark Busters
Stock tank

Just trying to get close

Mine's 290 on a bathroom scale, almost full of gas with some mud on it. Weighty mods are: CRF forks, bash plate, e-start, handguards, Michelin S12 tires.


Gotta show it off:



Yeah, I ain't too light either.


I didn't notice the extra weight of any of the mods. What I did notice was the extra width of the left side engine case. Both foot position and clearance around tight rocks and stumps are degraded.
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Old 06-23-2011, 12:27 PM   #3530
birds
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: North NJ
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I recently picked up an old devol racing bash plate. Can someone who has one post some pictures or hints on how to mount it? The back is pretty clear, but I don't get the triangular piece in the front.
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Old 06-23-2011, 01:18 PM   #3531
farrington300
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Love the pic Luke. I read your two noobs racing thread. Good Stuff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke View Post
Mine's 290 on a bathroom scale, almost full of gas with some mud on it. Weighty mods are: CRF forks, bash plate, e-start, handguards, Michelin S12 tires.


Gotta show it off:



Yeah, I ain't too light either.


I didn't notice the extra weight of any of the mods. What I did notice was the extra width of the left side engine case. Both foot position and clearance around tight rocks and stumps are degraded.
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Old 06-24-2011, 11:42 PM   #3532
Luke
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Love the pic Luke. I read your two noobs racing thread. Good Stuff.

Thanks!

I stuck with a local thread in the Pac Norwet forum to try to get a few people to try racing. It's sort of working.

Just for practice I went out to an MX track the other day (my first time on one), and the XR managed it. For one session I traded for a KTM 200, and found out that I can't blame the bike for being slow. On the upside, it was pretty good treatment for the new bike lust I've been having recently.
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Old 06-25-2011, 04:14 PM   #3533
huckleberry
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Location: N.E. Pa.
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well had the xr out for 50 miles of quad trails today, what a fun bike! This has to be the best trail bike ever! My 450exc was more powerful and faster but this is just more fun and i don't seem to mind slowing down a little on it. So to my question, what is every one running for sag riding a lot of rocks, from babyheads to 1 foot steps there is a lot of this type of trail near me so i'm hoping to hear some other views.
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Old 06-27-2011, 07:27 AM   #3534
Abominable
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First Start After Rebuild

Guys, I've completed (hopefully) my full engine rebuild, and am back together except for brakes and wheels. I'll be trying to start the beast likely some time this week. Any advice for the first startup? Do I need to prime any parts of the oiling system or just fill up the frame? Thanks
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Old 06-27-2011, 08:37 AM   #3535
Luke
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Originally Posted by huckleberry View Post
well had the xr out for 50 miles of quad trails today, what a fun bike! This has to be the best trail bike ever! My 450exc was more powerful and faster but this is just more fun and i don't seem to mind slowing down a little on it. So to my question, what is every one running for sag riding a lot of rocks, from babyheads to 1 foot steps there is a lot of this type of trail near me so i'm hoping to hear some other views.

I use standard sag settings. I'd suggest checking your weight against a spring chart. You could likely use stiffer fork springs. These help a lot for stepped downhills; they keep the front end from collapsing on bumps. You can also take out a few of the damping shims in the front forks. That'll make the front track better over rocks instead of deflecting to the side, and the ride will be more comfortable. Put the shims back in for riding wide-open desert. Like those big sand dunes near Allentown.
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Old 06-27-2011, 08:50 AM   #3536
Luke
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Originally Posted by Abominable View Post
Guys, I've completed (hopefully) my full engine rebuild, and am back together except for brakes and wheels. I'll be trying to start the beast likely some time this week. Any advice for the first startup? Do I need to prime any parts of the oiling system or just fill up the frame? Thanks
I did, and it certainly didn't hurt anything. There are a bunch of oil passages between the oil pumps and the places that get oiled, so I figured that filling them with oil would be good.

Advice from the local machinist, which I also followed: turn the motor over by hand using non-ratchet wrench and socket on the flywheel bolt. While doing this, listen and feel for piston-valve contact. By doing it this way, you won't bend the valves if they touch the piston and you can fix them easily. If you use the kickstarter (or e-start) the valves will bend when they hit the piston.

Once you've confirmed that the valve timing is correct, then use the kickstarter to turn the motor to get the oil where it belongs.
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Old 06-27-2011, 10:06 AM   #3537
Abominable
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luke View Post
I did, and it certainly didn't hurt anything. There are a bunch of oil passages between the oil pumps and the places that get oiled, so I figured that filling them with oil would be good.

Advice from the local machinist, which I also followed: turn the motor over by hand using non-ratchet wrench and socket on the flywheel bolt. While doing this, listen and feel for piston-valve contact. By doing it this way, you won't bend the valves if they touch the piston and you can fix them easily. If you use the kickstarter (or e-start) the valves will bend when they hit the piston.

Once you've confirmed that the valve timing is correct, then use the kickstarter to turn the motor to get the oil where it belongs.
Thanks Luke,

I'm confident that that timing is in the correct phase. And I've rotated the engine over a few times on the kick-starter and all appears well. I'm concerned about the lack of initial lubrication and the delay in the oil pump filling up all the lines, cooler, and filter housing before getting to the vital parts. All the parts were pre-lubed as specified during assembly, but I'm worried that the pump will take a long time to clear the system of air. Thoughts?
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Old 06-27-2011, 10:50 AM   #3538
farrington300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abominable View Post
Thanks Luke,

I'm confident that that timing is in the correct phase. And I've rotated the engine over a few times on the kick-starter and all appears well. I'm concerned about the lack of initial lubrication and the delay in the oil pump filling up all the lines, cooler, and filter housing before getting to the vital parts. All the parts were pre-lubed as specified during assembly, but I'm worried that the pump will take a long time to clear the system of air. Thoughts?
Correct me if im wrong, but wouldnt kicking the bike slowly a bunch of times push oil through the system? Afterall when you turn the engine, the oil pump turns, right?

Thats what I did on my rebuild, bike seems to be running fine.
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Old 06-27-2011, 10:56 AM   #3539
DrLewall
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farrington300 View Post
Correct me if im wrong, but wouldnt kicking the bike slowly a bunch of times push oil through the system? Afterall when you turn the engine, the oil pump turns, right?

Thats what I did on my rebuild, bike seems to be running fine.
yes..remove the spark plug and maybe kick or pump it abt 30 times should do it...be sure you HAVE OIL IN THE TANK!!!
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Old 06-27-2011, 10:57 AM   #3540
Abominable
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Originally Posted by farrington300 View Post
Correct me if im wrong, but wouldnt kicking the bike slowly a bunch of times push oil through the system? Afterall when you turn the engine, the oil pump turns, right?

Thats what I did on my rebuild, bike seems to be running fine.
I think so. So that is what I'm going with. However I'm a bit paranoid about it. I think the pump would have to be running at a fairly high speed to achieve enough pressure to reach the whole system. I'm concerned that the slow action of the kick starter might not do it. I'm glad to hear it worked for you. Did the bike start right up, or did you have any troubles?
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