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Old 09-14-2012, 10:36 AM   #4906
Dexter2811
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Thanks dude!

I actually have the stageII cams and found them great, but I was curious about the HRC ones, have a friend with a cam grinder, so I'll give'em a try if he can cut them...
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Old 09-16-2012, 03:56 PM   #4907
SpeedoJosh
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Would an Applied Triple Clamp from a XR650R fit on the XR400 forks, or do they have different dimensions?
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Old 09-16-2012, 05:48 PM   #4908
Ed@Ford
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rman237 View Post
I have an XR4 petcock installed in my ATC125. Works. For what it's worth, I also have a TW horn installed on the XR4! 3 cheers for Jap standardization.
do I assume the horn is running of 12 volt AC power, or do you have some sort of rectifier to make DC to run the horn? I have several other horns from other bikes...but all are DC...and do nothing on the power that goes and runs the XR headlight. And when you saw TW, I think you mean the fat tire Yamaha TW200.......
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Old 09-16-2012, 06:39 PM   #4909
Wallrat
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DC horns will work on the AC system - it just isn't as loud and best way to describe it's sound is like the horn is dying. But it'll pass inspection np.
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Old 09-17-2012, 05:43 AM   #4910
Ed@Ford
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Originally Posted by Wallrat View Post
DC horns will work on the AC system - it just isn't as loud and best way to describe it's sound is like the horn is dying. But it'll pass inspection np.
Thanks. Someone sells an AC horn.....gotta shop
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:25 AM   #4911
Rojobandito
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Six speed gearbox?!?!

Somebody mentioned a six speed gear box mod. Where do you find one of those? Also, I don't get why nobody likes the kick start only. I love it. It is lighter and more reliable. You don't have to buy a new battery every couple of years. Plus, it feels kinda road warrior.
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:33 AM   #4912
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Originally Posted by Rojobandito View Post
Somebody mentioned a six speed gear box mod. Where do you find one of those? Also, I don't get why nobody likes the kick start only. I love it. It is lighter and more reliable. You don't have to buy a new battery every couple of years. Plus, it feels kinda road warrior.
Rojo: 5 speed and crappy starting have been #1 & 2 on my love-hate list for my XR440.. since I bought it in 1997....until now. I did all the tricks suggested by Dr Lewall...the extended slow speed screw, large slow speed jet, and the cable adjuster for the idle screw from the XRL650....plus 10 priming kick with the compression release in, and properly finding TDC before the first kick thru. Simply turn the throttle stop in 2 turns, and 4 kicks and it's running....48F is the coldest so far...5 kicks. It's magic! Take cold starting off my hate list.

6 speed....damn that would be nice..but may be a dream.
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:49 AM   #4913
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SMOKING..oil level??

Now that cold starting is off my hate list, using the method described in a prior posting, I note some blue smoke on startup...but it's not all the time. I have real good compression....it requires a stout kick to fire up the 11:1 compression 440 conversion which is at least 4 years old. At that time it got new valve stem seals. Since these engines run pretty warm, I'm thinking valve stem seals....particularly exhaust...are probably in need of replacement. Has anyone done this job without head removal? As far as a valve spring compressor is concerned..buy? make? what? Ages ago I made one to remove the valves on my XR200R 2 valve engine. Also, I've noted folks on this thread with cam chain, guides, and tensioner issues...so maybe do that if I have to tear off the head.....so the question there is...does the head have to come off for that? I'm guessing no...but I WILL need an alternator puller.

Finally, could the smoking be related to overfilling the dry sump, and having oil trapped on top of the head around the valve seals? I find oil level checking unreliable...and when I put in the 2.6 quarts the manual says is required for oil & filter change, I don't get a "full" level on the dipstick. Is there a better oil level check process?
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Old 09-20-2012, 09:31 AM   #4914
Diravi
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Originally Posted by Ed@Ford View Post
Finally, could the smoking be related to overfilling the dry sump, and having oil trapped on top of the head around the valve seals? I find oil level checking unreliable...and when I put in the 2.6 quarts the manual says is required for oil & filter change, I don't get a "full" level on the dipstick. Is there a better oil level check process?
2.6 quarts for an oil+filter change? Maybe after a complete rebuild, but you need only 1.9 quarts for an oil+filter change. Oil level check is reliable: fire up, let it warm a bit, drive a few small circles to operate the tranny (important), shut off and check. Even better: check after riding, let it idle a minute before shutting it off. No need to check after an oil change, just make sure you put in 1.9 quarts.

Starting: I have a pumper, today was 45F, starts first kick as always. Choke out a bit, 4 full throttles to pump gas into the carb, find TDC, kick, push choke back after 1 min.
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Old 09-20-2012, 09:39 AM   #4915
Ed@Ford
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diravi View Post
2.6 quarts for an oil+filter change? Maybe after a complete rebuild, but you need only 1.9 quarts for an oil+filter change. Oil level check is reliable: fire up, let it warm a bit, drive a few small circles to operate the tranny (important), shut off and check. Even better: check after riding, let it idle a minute before shutting it off. No need to check after an oil change, just make sure you put in 1.9 quarts.
OOPS....you are right on..page 1-6..1.9 qt with oil+filter change....and was not aware of the trans "exercise". Wil do that ASAP.
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Old 09-20-2012, 10:40 AM   #4916
Wallrat
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Cold starting is no issue with the pumper carb either. I've fired mine up multiple times on the 1st kick in 30~F with nothing but TDC, a blip on the throttle, and kick it over. Mine starts 95% 1st kick, 99.9% by 2nd kick, and every great once in awhile (read: a few times per year) it'll need another kick. Haven't noticed any difference in starting difficulty based on temperature.

If I saw a good deal on a 400ex bottom end I might convert it over to electric start - just because 1)I'm already carrying a battery and 2)E-start is really nice when you need to restart the bike on a steep slope.
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Old 09-20-2012, 10:45 AM   #4917
Wallrat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed@Ford View Post
Now that cold starting is off my hate list, using the method described in a prior posting, I note some blue smoke on startup...but it's not all the time. I have real good compression....it requires a stout kick to fire up the 11:1 compression 440 conversion which is at least 4 years old. At that time it got new valve stem seals. Since these engines run pretty warm, I'm thinking valve stem seals....particularly exhaust...are probably in need of replacement. Has anyone done this job without head removal? As far as a valve spring compressor is concerned..buy? make? what? Ages ago I made one to remove the valves on my XR200R 2 valve engine. Also, I've noted folks on this thread with cam chain, guides, and tensioner issues...so maybe do that if I have to tear off the head.....so the question there is...does the head have to come off for that? I'm guessing no...but I WILL need an alternator puller.

Finally, could the smoking be related to overfilling the dry sump, and having oil trapped on top of the head around the valve seals? I find oil level checking unreliable...and when I put in the 2.6 quarts the manual says is required for oil & filter change, I don't get a "full" level on the dipstick. Is there a better oil level check process?

If you do end up changing the valve guide seals:

-Yes you need to remove the head
-No its not difficult nor time consuming. Could do the whole job in a few hours
-I "rented" one of those crappy valve spring compressors from autozone. Have to fiddle with it to make it work but it's doable.
-A common "upgrade" to the cam chain is to replace it with the beefier one from a CFR450. Straight swap and its not very expensive.
-Not sure what you need an alternator puller for
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Old 09-20-2012, 10:51 AM   #4918
Ed@Ford
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wallrat View Post
If-Not sure what you need an alternator puller for
My error...the cam chain is on the RH side (clutch side) had it mixed up with my KLR which has the cam chain on the alternator side. Yes...the 450 chain is desireable....thanks regarding the autozone valve spring compressor....a little fiddling is ok if it precludes buying a $$$ tool for a one-shot-job
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:47 PM   #4919
Rojobandito
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Starting routine

I have a pretty simple start up routine. I crank up the idle about 4 or 5 turns, full choke, work the kick starter a little til I find TDC, then kick it hard and she starts on the first or second kick every time. Just make sure you keep your valves chimed and run good gas. I love this bike!!
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Old 09-20-2012, 10:37 PM   #4920
Rman237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed@Ford View Post
do I assume the horn is running of 12 volt AC power, or do you have some sort of rectifier to make DC to run the horn? I have several other horns from other bikes...but all are DC...and do nothing on the power that goes and runs the XR headlight. And when you saw TW, I think you mean the fat tire Yamaha TW200.......
Oops, been on the road and haven't been checking in. The stator is rewound (BD) to provide AC to the headlight only, everything else is DC via the rectifier. The rewound stator has 4 leads, 2 go straight A/C to the headlight, 2 go to the rectifier for D/C ( blinkers, brakelight, horn, etc...). And yes, the 12V horn is from a Yamaha TW200, it was cheap at like $7. I pulled the horn off my TW to see if it would work and it did so I ordered one from.... someone? It works.
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