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Old 11-06-2012, 04:31 AM   #5146
DrLewall
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Location: Drakes Creek, AR
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Hey Ed...

hows the engine removal comin?

pix???

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Old 11-06-2012, 07:30 AM   #5147
GatSS
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key switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by blitchfield View Post
Hey thanks for the responses. Going to be ordering another set of sprockets and a chain during the winter as well as one of those keyed switches.
On my XR I added one of these in the left side of the headlight plastic. I wired it in line with the kill button so when the key is off/ out the bike won't start.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Key-IGNITION...9dec76&vxp=mtr

You can see the key (with a red zip tie attached) in this picture.
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:21 PM   #5148
Ed@Ford
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrLewall View Post
hows the engine removal comin?

pix???


Yesterday got the swing arm bolt drilled out in far enough that the engine and swing arm is "free" from the frame. Cheap step drills from Harbor freight and some turned down shank 9/16 allowed me to drill out each end of the SA bolt. Today I stripped off everything that connects to the engine and the swing arm. A couple bounces and what was left of the tissue paper thick SA bolt just ripped and it's free. Gonna strap the frame my platform ATV jack and see how much the engine will move up and forward and tilt to the side to weasel the engine+swing arm out of the frame. If it does, I'll consider it an act of God. I think the sawzall will have to come to the rescue and "shorten" the swing arm. Fortunately I bought a used one. That's followed by the treat of getting the SA bolt out of the ass end of the crankcase. No pix though
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Old 11-07-2012, 01:56 AM   #5149
DrLewall
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed@Ford View Post
Yesterday got the swing arm bolt drilled out in far enough that the engine and swing arm is "free" from the frame. Cheap step drills from Harbor freight and some turned down shank 9/16 allowed me to drill out each end of the SA bolt. Today I stripped off everything that connects to the engine and the swing arm. A couple bounces and what was left of the tissue paper thick SA bolt just ripped and it's free. Gonna strap the frame my platform ATV jack and see how much the engine will move up and forward and tilt to the side to weasel the engine+swing arm out of the frame. If it does, I'll consider it an act of God. I think the sawzall will have to come to the rescue and "shorten" the swing arm. Fortunately I bought a used one. That's followed by the treat of getting the SA bolt out of the ass end of the crankcase. No pix though
welcome to my nightmare!
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Old 11-07-2012, 04:03 AM   #5150
Ed@Ford
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Originally Posted by DrLewall View Post
welcome to my nightmare!
Some will say 2 nightmares.....swingarm bolt, and the re-election last night. At least I have control over the XR400!

Ed@Ford screwed with this post 11-07-2012 at 04:04 AM Reason: can't frikkin type!
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Old 11-07-2012, 06:57 AM   #5151
Wallrat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed@Ford View Post
Some will say 2 nightmares.....swingarm bolt, and the re-election last night. At least I have control over the XR400!
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:07 AM   #5152
beat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wallrat View Post
I'm running 15/40 street and 14/40 dirt. Its almost the same ratio as stock and stock CS+1 but I can't run a 16T CS due to the case saver I made being in the way. With 14/40 my rpm's in 5th tend to be 100x of my speed (55mph=5500rpm). With the 15/40 I drop about 500 rpm's for any given speed (55mph=5000rpm).
how do you know the rpm's?
i don't have a tachometer on my xr...
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:57 AM   #5153
Wallrat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beat View Post
how do you know the rpm's?
i don't have a tachometer on my xr...

http://trailtech.net/vapor.html


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Old 11-07-2012, 01:44 PM   #5154
Ed@Ford
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Saga of the siezed Swingarm bolt.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed@Ford View Post
Yesterday got the swing arm bolt drilled out in far enough that the engine and swing arm is "free" from the frame. Cheap step drills from Harbor freight and some turned down shank 9/16 allowed me to drill out each end of the SA bolt. Today I stripped off everything that connects to the engine and the swing arm. A couple bounces and what was left of the tissue paper thick SA bolt just ripped and it's free. Gonna strap the frame my platform ATV jack and see how much the engine will move up and forward and tilt to the side to weasel the engine+swing arm out of the frame. If it does, I'll consider it an act of God. I think the sawzall will have to come to the rescue and "shorten" the swing arm. Fortunately I bought a used one. That's followed by the treat of getting the SA bolt out of the ass end of the crankcase. No pix though
Well, I weaseled the engine out of the frame with the swing arm attached....I was amazed it was possible. Now after buzzing thru a bunch of sawzall blades sawing the swingarm into bits, I have an engine with the axle frozen in the tube thru the back end of the crankcase, with the two hardened steel bushings that slide thru the 4 roller bearings that ride in the swing arm. The cast part of the aluminum swingarm must be some massively high silicon alloy....it ruined 3 Milwaukee not so cheap metal blades.

The cold reality so far is that even though the swingarmbolt is frozen in the engine... the frikkin bike (1996) would probably have been rideable for another 17 years, as the bearings were greased, no rust. Shoulda left the pig alone!! Gotta fix it now, or sell it piecemeal. At least I have a good used swingarm, and have only a few bits that need replacing.
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Old 11-07-2012, 02:29 PM   #5155
DrLewall
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed@Ford View Post
Well, I weaseled the engine out of the frame with the swing arm attached....I was amazed it was possible. Now after buzzing thru a bunch of sawzall blades sawing the swingarm into bits, I have an engine with the axle frozen in the tube thru the back end of the crankcase, with the two hardened steel bushings that slide thru the 4 roller bearings that ride in the swing arm. The cast part of the aluminum swingarm must be some massively high silicon alloy....it ruined 3 Milwaukee not so cheap metal blades.

The cold reality so far is that even though the swingarmbolt is frozen in the engine... the frikkin bike (1996) would probably have been rideable for another 17 years, as the bearings were greased, no rust. Shoulda left the pig alone!! Gotta fix it now, or sell it piecemeal. At least I have a good used swingarm, and have only a few bits that need replacing.
Meh..been there, done that!
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Old 11-07-2012, 03:17 PM   #5156
Ed@Ford
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Originally Posted by Wallrat View Post
Wallrat....FINE tank panniers! From where????
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:09 PM   #5157
PCK_4xCustoms
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Those with some major rise to their bars, what did you do about too short clutch cable length?
Mainly what length do I need?

Maybe, who raised how?
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:16 PM   #5158
adayinthedirt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartiniUp View Post
I need a STOCK STOCK STOCK spring for the shock. Can buy or trade you a spring for big boys, 220-250 lbs. Thanks.
I will trade you springs... Pm me
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Old 11-08-2012, 05:18 AM   #5159
DrLewall
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PCK_4xCustoms View Post
Those with some major rise to their bars, what did you do about too short clutch cable length?
Mainly what length do I need?

Maybe, who raised how?
knock on wood! I have had my 96 since 98..and I have NEVER replaced any of the cables..I have serviced them, but never replaced them, and here lately, I been thinking abt my clucth cable..
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Old 11-08-2012, 10:10 AM   #5160
Luke
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Location: Idiotville, OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PCK_4xCustoms View Post
Those with some major rise to their bars, what did you do about too short clutch cable length?
Mainly what length do I need?

Maybe, who raised how?
I went a little over +3 on the bars, with stock cables.




Rotate the throttle tube down, and re-route the clutch cable so it goes behind the triple clamp, not in front. That's barely visible in the picture under the tank vent hose and to the left of the left riser.

Later, I swapped out the whole clutch + decomp perch and cables with ones from a KTM LC4. I had to do a bit of bracket fabbing but the pull is much smoother and it gets rid of the separate decomp perch on the bars.
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