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Old 12-08-2012, 11:59 AM   #5251
Stretch67
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Sweet. I have an oxy-acetylene rig. Thanks for the tip.
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Old 12-08-2012, 12:06 PM   #5252
DrLewall
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Originally Posted by Stretch67 View Post
Sweet. I have an oxy-acetylene rig. Thanks for the tip.
do you have a back up tool for just in case?

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Old 12-08-2012, 12:16 PM   #5253
Stretch67
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Yep!
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Old 12-08-2012, 01:27 PM   #5254
Ed@Ford
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch67 View Post
I'll start work on the swingarm bolt when all the crucial stuff is done. I can just lay the bike on its side in the garage and lay the PB Blaster to it, for weeks if need be. I have an air chisel with blunt drift bits... if I can work the thing back and forth in a sea of penetrating oil, maybe something will come of it. I'm not holding out for an easy job of it though. I don't believe the bike spent much time in the desert, but was in the southeastern USA most of its life... humid summers and frequent mud on the trails, not to mention PO's pressure-washing the bike, blasting water into the bearings and bushings.
I recently redid my SA bolt. It siezes on the hardened steel sleeves in each side of the swing arm....AND in the two steel bushings pressed into the rear of each crankcase half. I ended up drilling the bolt to get the heads off, then with a lot of frikkin around the engine with the SA will come out of the frame....then I slashed the swing arm up leaving the bolt and the two bushings stuck on....then a die grinder (Dremel or bigger) to split the hardened bushings...they actually break easy....THEN heat the remainder of the bolt and whack it back and forth in the rear of the engine to get it moving. Dr Lewall's discourse on the operation is essentially the bible.

my opinion is the water that rusts it in place comes thru the gap between the SA and the rear of the crankcase

It is also my opinion that as long as your swing arm moves smoothly, even though the bolt won't budge....leave it be

Ed@Ford screwed with this post 12-08-2012 at 01:36 PM
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Old 12-08-2012, 05:36 PM   #5255
DrLewall
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Originally Posted by Ed@Ford View Post
It is also my opinion that as long as your swing arm moves smoothly, even though the bolt won't budge....leave it be


but probably the best advice yet
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:24 PM   #5256
Tachedoutoffroad
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My 400 got traded in for a plated 250/300 and a plated 600 ..

A buddy needs this measurement and I can't help him out...




Can someone measure the length from the center of the pivot bolt to the rear machined end, like in this pic?
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Old 12-09-2012, 02:09 AM   #5257
DrLewall
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tachedoutoffroad View Post
My 400 got traded in for a plated 250/300 and a plated 600 ..

A buddy needs this measurement and I can't help him out...




Can someone measure the length from the center of the pivot bolt to the rear machined end, like in this pic?
you mean the end of the swing arm itself? BRB with that fer ya..

22 3/4

DrLewall screwed with this post 12-09-2012 at 02:16 AM
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Old 12-09-2012, 05:47 AM   #5258
Tachedoutoffroad
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Thanks!

Think he's trying to put a 400 rear end on a 250 to get the rear shock suspension.....


BTW
Xr600 is 22 3/4"
Xr250 is 21 3/4"
Middle of bolt head to end of arm.


XR250
Wheelbase:********************* 55.1”
Rear Susp Travel************* 10.6”
Ground Clearance********** 12.4”

Shock Type: ***************** Kayaba
Linkage Ratio (est)********** 4.0 > 1
Stock Spring Rate************ 11.0
Spring Dimensions********** 61.0 x 55.5 x 190 mm (OD x ID x Length)

Swingarm Length*********
Swingarm Bolt***************** 14mm x 213 mm
SA bushing length*********** 15 x 20 x 64 *(OE #52141-KCZ-000)
Pivot Works#******************** H-PI-032

Upper Shock Bolt************ 10mm x 55mm
Lower Shock Bolt************ 10mm x 55mm
Upper Rocker Bolt********** 12mm x 90mm
Lower Link Bolt (to rkr)* 10mm x 74mm
Lower Link Bolt (to SA)* 10mm x 69mm



XR400
Wheelbase:*********************** 56.1”
Rear Susp Travel************** 11.8”
Ground Clearance************* 12.2”

Shock Type: ********************** Showa
Linkage Ratio (est)
Stock Spring Rate**************** 9.50
Spring specs********************** 63.1 x 59.1 x 217 mm (OD x ID x Lengt
Swingarm Length************
Swingarm Bolt****** 14mm x 255 mm
SA bushing length*********** 15 x 20 x 64* (OE #52141-HN1-000)
Pivot Works#******************** H-PI-032


Upper Shock Bolt************ 10mm x 55mm
Lower Shock Bolt************ 10mm x 55mm
Upper Rocker Bolt********** 12mm x 90mm
Lower Link Bolt (to rkr)* 10mm x 74mm
Lower Link Bolt (to SA)* 10mm x 69mm
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Old 12-09-2012, 02:39 PM   #5259
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I finally got time to load one of our rides over the summer onto YouTube. I thought I was geared pretty low until I found this network of trails! Santa is bringing me a bigger rear sprocket!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBzN...ature=g-crec-u
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Old 12-09-2012, 04:36 PM   #5260
Stretch67
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You can get a new brake pedal of course, but the bushing in the frame is not removable as far as I know. If you find a smart way to tighten up that bushing please let us know..
Welp, I found a smart way, but not an easy way. Unless you're a Mad Scientist.

- After removing the pedal from the bike... Ground the weld off the outside surface of the pedal and pressed the worn-out shaft out.

- Using a MIG welder, ran beads along the shaft itself to increase the diameter.

- Put the shaft in my lathe and turned it down to the proper diameter, then pressed the shaft back into the pedal and re-welded it back in place. That takes care of the pedal.

- Drilled out the pedal mounting hole in the frame with a 5/8-inch (.625) bit. Since I was using a hand drill, it wallowed out to .635, but that's okay...

- Using the lathe again, machined a steel bushing with an inside diameter to allow a proper fit on the pedal shaft, with outside diameter of .637.

- Smeared the outside of the bushing with red Loc-Tite and pressed it into the frame.



Tomorrow morning it'll be as good as new. Maybe better... I believe I might seal the ends of the pedal shaft, cross-drill it, and install a grease fitting.




It... is... ALIVE!!!

Muuuwaaaa-hahahahahahahaha!!!


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Old 12-09-2012, 05:14 PM   #5261
DrLewall
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A man who has SKILLZ and machinery at his finger tips! When can I move in, Dad!
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Old 12-09-2012, 07:37 PM   #5262
Stretch67
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C'mon in, m' brother!








"I love it when a plan comes together!"
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Old 12-10-2012, 04:52 AM   #5263
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Stretch67:

Clever!!
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:20 PM   #5264
G600
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Originally Posted by Stretch67 View Post





wow.. Impressive.... but I guess most of us mortals will have our brake pedals flopping on...
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:17 PM   #5265
Stretch67
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Yeah, too bad there's no easy way to renew the pivot hole. I once worked on a friend's '82 Yamaha XJ650 Maxim, and its brake pedal pivot had a grease fitting. Handy. Doing so may have cost Yamaha a dollar. Too bad the bean-counters win when it comes to these things nowadays.

I took the rear suspension link and shock loose today (with the exception of that pesky swingarm), greasing everything with Mystik JT-6 Hi-Temp waterproof grease. All the pivot bearings were in remarkably good shape considering this bike's heavy use. Honda must have actually greased those parts on assembly.

My '87 XL250R has factory-installed grease fittings on those pivots, but it appears the bean-counters won when the final design for the XR4 hit the CEO's desk.

I was wanting to install a grease fitting for every pivot, but then realized I'd never be able to drill through the bearing races. The link, shock, dogbone, and associated parts in which the zerk fittings themselves are installed are cast aluminum... no problem. But for the grease to be able to get into the bearings themselves, a hole would have to drilled into the races, which are hardened steel, which would merely laugh at my drill bits. So I simply slathered grease on everything and reassembled. (Sigh)

I do like the XR4's removable subframe. That makes it a lot easier to access things back there. My other trail bikes, XL250 and DR250, don't have removable subframes, and it gets to be quite a puzzle to get things in and out of there.
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Stretch67 screwed with this post 12-11-2012 at 03:57 PM
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