The XR400 Thread

[G600]

Originally Posted by Stretch67

...
I'll start work on the swingarm bolt when all the crucial stuff is done. I can just lay the bike on its side in the garage and lay the PB Blaster to it, for weeks if need be. I have an air chisel with blunt drift bits... if I can work the thing back and forth in a sea of penetrating oil, maybe something will come of it. I'm not holding out for an easy job of it though...

Ok.

If the bolt won’t move, try heat before doing anything more drastic.

I was once working on a stuck swingarm bolt in a 2004 xr4. It had never been out and was truly stuck. The usual big hammer, socket with long extension shaft and rust penetration oil routine did not work.

So I got a oxygen/acetylene (steel) cutting Torch. If you do the same, DO NOT TOUCH THE LEVER as you don’t want to blast any material away. With a strong flame you can heat the swingarm bolt from end to end, you can blast the flame through the hollow bolt. I did heat the bolt until it was just starting to go read (at the torch end) , and then let it cool down. I repeated this maybe ten times, but eventually the bolt moved.

[Stretch67]

Sweet. I have an oxy-acetylene rig. Thanks for the tip.

[DrLewall]

Originally Posted by Stretch67

Sweet. I have an oxy-acetylene rig. Thanks for the tip.

do you have a back up tool for just in case?

[Stretch67]

Yep!

[Ed@Ford]

Originally Posted by Stretch67

I'll start work on the swingarm bolt when all the crucial stuff is done. I can just lay the bike on its side in the garage and lay the PB Blaster to it, for weeks if need be. I have an air chisel with blunt drift bits... if I can work the thing back and forth in a sea of penetrating oil, maybe something will come of it. I'm not holding out for an easy job of it though. I don't believe the bike spent much time in the desert, but was in the southeastern USA most of its life... humid summers and frequent mud on the trails, not to mention PO's pressure-washing the bike, blasting water into the bearings and bushings.

I recently redid my SA bolt. It siezes on the hardened steel sleeves in each side of the swing arm....AND in the two steel bushings pressed into the rear of each crankcase half. I ended up drilling the bolt to get the heads off, then with a lot of frikkin around the engine with the SA will come out of the frame....then I slashed the swing arm up leaving the bolt and the two bushings stuck on....then a die grinder (Dremel or bigger) to split the hardened bushings...they actually break easy....THEN heat the remainder of the bolt and whack it back and forth in the rear of the engine to get it moving. Dr Lewall's discourse on the operation is essentially the bible.

my opinion is the water that rusts it in place comes thru the gap between the SA and the rear of the crankcase

It is also my opinion that as long as your swing arm moves smoothly, even though the bolt won't budge....leave it be

[DrLewall]

Originally Posted by Ed@Ford

It is also my opinion that as long as your swing arm moves smoothly, even though the bolt won't budge....leave it be

but probably the best advice yet

[Tachedoutoffroad]

My 400 got traded in for a plated 250/300 and a plated 600 ..

A buddy needs this measurement and I can't help him out...




Can someone measure the length from the center of the pivot bolt to the rear machined end, like in this pic?

[DrLewall]

Originally Posted by Tachedoutoffroad

My 400 got traded in for a plated 250/300 and a plated 600 ..

A buddy needs this measurement and I can't help him out...




Can someone measure the length from the center of the pivot bolt to the rear machined end, like in this pic?

you mean the end of the swing arm itself? BRB with that fer ya..

22 3/4

[Tachedoutoffroad]

Thanks!

Think he's trying to put a 400 rear end on a 250 to get the rear shock suspension.....


BTW
Xr600 is 22 3/4"
Xr250 is 21 3/4"
Middle of bolt head to end of arm.


XR250
Wheelbase:********************* 55.1”
Rear Susp Travel************* 10.6”
Ground Clearance********** 12.4”

Shock Type: ***************** Kayaba
Linkage Ratio (est)********** 4.0 > 1
Stock Spring Rate************ 11.0
Spring Dimensions********** 61.0 x 55.5 x 190 mm (OD x ID x Length)

Swingarm Length*********
Swingarm Bolt***************** 14mm x 213 mm
SA bushing length*********** 15 x 20 x 64 *(OE #52141-KCZ-000)
Pivot Works#******************** H-PI-032

Upper Shock Bolt************ 10mm x 55mm
Lower Shock Bolt************ 10mm x 55mm
Upper Rocker Bolt********** 12mm x 90mm
Lower Link Bolt (to rkr)* 10mm x 74mm
Lower Link Bolt (to SA)* 10mm x 69mm



XR400
Wheelbase:*********************** 56.1”
Rear Susp Travel************** 11.8”
Ground Clearance************* 12.2”

Shock Type: ********************** Showa
Linkage Ratio (est)
Stock Spring Rate**************** 9.50
Spring specs********************** 63.1 x 59.1 x 217 mm (OD x ID x Lengt
Swingarm Length************
Swingarm Bolt****** 14mm x 255 mm
SA bushing length*********** 15 x 20 x 64* (OE #52141-HN1-000)
Pivot Works#******************** H-PI-032


Upper Shock Bolt************ 10mm x 55mm
Lower Shock Bolt************ 10mm x 55mm
Upper Rocker Bolt********** 12mm x 90mm
Lower Link Bolt (to rkr)* 10mm x 74mm
Lower Link Bolt (to SA)* 10mm x 69mm

[XR4EVER]

I finally got time to load one of our rides over the summer onto YouTube. I thought I was geared pretty low until I found this network of trails! Santa is bringing me a bigger rear sprocket!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBzN...ature=g-crec-u

[Stretch67]

Originally Posted by G600

You can get a new brake pedal of course, but the bushing in the frame is not removable as far as I know. If you find a smart way to tighten up that bushing please let us know..

Welp, I found a smart way, but not an easy way. Unless you're a Mad Scientist.

- After removing the pedal from the bike... Ground the weld off the outside surface of the pedal and pressed the worn-out shaft out.

- Using a MIG welder, ran beads along the shaft itself to increase the diameter.

- Put the shaft in my lathe and turned it down to the proper diameter, then pressed the shaft back into the pedal and re-welded it back in place. That takes care of the pedal.

- Drilled out the pedal mounting hole in the frame with a 5/8-inch (.625) bit. Since I was using a hand drill, it wallowed out to .635, but that's okay...

- Using the lathe again, machined a steel bushing with an inside diameter to allow a proper fit on the pedal shaft, with outside diameter of .637.

- Smeared the outside of the bushing with red Loc-Tite and pressed it into the frame.



Tomorrow morning it'll be as good as new. Maybe better... I believe I might seal the ends of the pedal shaft, cross-drill it, and install a grease fitting.




It... is... ALIVE!!!

Muuuwaaaa-hahahahahahahaha!!!

[DrLewall]

A man who has SKILLZ and machinery at his finger tips! When can I move in, Dad!

[Stretch67]

C'mon in, m' brother!








"I love it when a plan comes together!"

[Ed@Ford]

Stretch67:

Clever!!

[G600]

Originally Posted by Stretch67

wow.. Impressive.... but I guess most of us mortals will have our brake pedals flopping on...