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Old 12-23-2008, 06:18 PM   #76
adrenaline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stroming it softly
Here are some sites that have parts--www.westernhillshondayamaha.com and www.ohiocycle.com. Petcocks are no longer available new but you can find plenty of rebuild kits. www.groupwracing.com has a lot of resources and links to 160/175's.
Thanks for the links; I will check them out for sure
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Old 12-26-2008, 09:39 AM   #77
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Idle problems-

Hello adrenaline . I used to be a Honda dealer and mechanic but it's been a while. I have just started restoring a 1965 CB160 so I found this thread. I was reading your post about your idle problems and I reached back in time in my memory and I think you may have a bad advancer.. Either weak springs or it's sticky. It's also likely that you have plugged idle jets. The varying rpm would be the advancer and if the bike runs good hot but will not idle when warm it's probable you have a second problem with the jets. One other possibility is sticking throttle cable (s). If you un-do the slides be sure and put them back in such that the idle speed screw "ramp" is towards the idle speed adjust screw (s) . If put in backwards the slide will be 1/4 open or so when you start the bike. Great fun till it blows up! I don't think you described a petcock problem with the bike running ok down the road. I'm trying to work out casting up copies of the original plastic tank emblems for my bike that say CB160 using whats left of my emblems to make female molds. I've had some success but not quite right yet. Also I discovered that if bent a little from the sun they can be flattened with gentle heating and light persuasion. Is everyone aware how to straighten clutch/brake levers without breaking them even if they are pretzled? ..cheers... Dave

olddealer screwed with this post 12-26-2008 at 10:23 AM Reason: wrong year
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Old 12-26-2008, 04:45 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olddealer
...Is everyone aware how to straighten clutch/brake levers without breaking them even if they are pretzled? ..cheers... Dave
No, but I'm willing to learn.

BTW, welcome to the forum.
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Old 12-26-2008, 08:25 PM   #79
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straighten handlebar clutch & brake levers

Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilClown
No, but I'm willing to learn.

BTW, welcome to the forum.
Thank you. For years I did not think you could straighten these but 1 day I tried annealing one of these and it bent back just fine. I like to mount the cable end in a vise then play a flame from a propane torch back and forth on and a little past the bend area. After a minute or so put the closed end of a combination wrench over the "ball" and down to the bend. Carefully bend "back" maybe 1/3 to 1/2 the needed distance. Don't over do this. Dont know how to explain that last instruction. Re-anneal and repeat the bending. Every time you stop your bending to check your progress, re-anneal the metal or it will break. Hope this works for you. Dave
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Old 12-26-2008, 09:22 PM   #80
adrenaline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olddealer
Hello adrenaline . I used to be a Honda dealer and mechanic but it's been a while. I have just started restoring a 1965 CB160 so I found this thread. I was reading your post about your idle problems and I reached back in time in my memory and I think you may have a bad advancer.. Either weak springs or it's sticky. It's also likely that you have plugged idle jets. The varying rpm would be the advancer and if the bike runs good hot but will not idle when warm it's probable you have a second problem with the jets. One other possibility is sticking throttle cable (s). If you un-do the slides be sure and put them back in such that the idle speed screw "ramp" is towards the idle speed adjust screw (s) . If put in backwards the slide will be 1/4 open or so when you start the bike. Great fun till it blows up! I don't think you described a petcock problem with the bike running ok down the road. I'm trying to work out casting up copies of the original plastic tank emblems for my bike that say CB160 using whats left of my emblems to make female molds. I've had some success but not quite right yet. Also I discovered that if bent a little from the sun they can be flattened with gentle heating and light persuasion. Is everyone aware how to straighten clutch/brake levers without breaking them even if they are pretzled? ..cheers... Dave
can you elaborate on the advancer? I would like to check that out. I don't think the jets are plugged because I went through the carbs and I soaked everything good in jets. I would believe that maybe the throttle cables are the culprit but it is intermittent. Well it does it almost all of the time cold but it doesn't do it warm.

My original thought was that it was leaking fuel out of the petcock and filling up the carbs and leaking into the cylinders then once the excess fuel is burned it runs right. Except that when it does idle back down it runs good but actually dies at an idol. I think I actually have two problems.

I am going to try an use a regular gas can with no petcock and see if that problem goes away.

Thanks for the advice and post some pics of your bike please.
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Old 12-26-2008, 11:19 PM   #81
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idle problems

Hello again adrenalin... The advancer is the cam that opens the points. If you take the point cover off and grab the points cam between your thumb and first finger you should be able to turn it about 15 degrees ( I don't remember exactly what the advance is) and when you release it it should return under spring pressure to it's original position. Also in it's original position it shouldn't be loose (maybe a degree or so only). You have to check this with the engine off because with your reving problem a timing light would show full advance as soon as the engine revs and that is what it's supposed to do anyway. I should add that if you could somehow manually advance the timing at idle the rpm would go up just because of the advance and that's why I suspect the springs on the advancer are stretched. Did I mention the advancer is a centripital device with springs and weights and the weights move out with increasing rpm and that action turns the cam lobe more advanced. I always figured that the reason the springs stretched was because when changing points some inquireing mind would take the thing apart and that's when they would stretch. By the way adrenlin there may be another answer to your problem not related to this but it's easy to check and it can cause eratic rpm's. I think you should double check your carb slides also. If you pull up on the throttle cable on one carb at a time and release it it should make a nice click when you let go of the cable jacket. Come to think of it check the carb synchronization. Pull the air cleaners on both carbs, look in the throats from the back and make sure they open at the same time, the same amount and close together. Did you check compression on both cyclinders? Oh OH OH... Last resort pull both mufflers off and see if things improve. When checking compression make sure choke is open and hold throttle full open (should be3 about 175# per cylinder. Test it cold and then test it again hot. If compression goes down check tappets, especially intake tappet. It's been a long long time and my 160 was bought as a basket case so I can't check any of these things I am telling you so if someone has better recommendations, specs etc. please chime in ,,I won't be offended.. Dave
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Old 12-27-2008, 12:40 AM   #82
adrenaline
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Dave,

Thank you for you time. You have given me lots to check. I thank you so much for your input.

Thanks again,
Mike
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Old 12-27-2008, 09:39 AM   #83
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Your welcome Mike

Your welcome Mike. I love troubleshooting. In my life before Honda shop I was an electronics technician (911 two-way fm radio stuff). Looking at my last post it was all over thee place. I also don't know your level of experience so I might have over explained the advancer or maybe not enough? Anyway try some of that and if it doesn't find the problem let me know and I'll do a better job. Dave
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Old 12-27-2008, 09:57 AM   #84
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I love the old hondas, here's my 305 scrambler. My dad bought it brand new in 67.
Before

After

so fun to ride
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Old 12-27-2008, 02:47 PM   #85
adrenaline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olddealer
Your welcome Mike. I love troubleshooting. In my life before Honda shop I was an electronics technician (911 two-way fm radio stuff). Looking at my last post it was all over thee place. I also don't know your level of experience so I might have over explained the advancer or maybe not enough? Anyway try some of that and if it doesn't find the problem let me know and I'll do a better job. Dave
I have been an auto mechanic most of my life. Never worked on motorcycles but I am familiar with centrifugal advance. I could decipher your post just fine. I am going to strip the down to the frame either this weekend or next.

Thanks for the pics Big-B Nice old bikes.
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Old 12-27-2008, 03:20 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big-B
I love the old hondas, here's my 305 scrambler. My dad bought it brand new in 67.


so fun to ride
DANG!

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Old 12-29-2008, 08:15 PM   #87
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Odd, I saw a CL77 at an auction a couple weeks ago, painted (badly) in that same bright green. [quote=Big-B]

[quote]
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Old 12-29-2008, 10:37 PM   #88
Doug Matson
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You did a great job on that 305 Scrambler! Some day I ever sell some bikes I would love to have both the 305 Scrambler and the Super Hawk.
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Old 12-30-2008, 11:59 PM   #89
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I made some more progress on the bike tonight.

My new gaskets and seals arrived today:





While the engine ran great last spring when I tested it, I decided to dismatle it, and replace all the gaskets. That should save some leaking, and make working on the bike a bit more pleasant. Besides, it's bitter cold outside, I won't realistically be able to ride until spring anyway, and I can do the engine work inside, where it's warm!



I brought the engine inside tonight. I started out by pulling off the shifter and the kickstart lever. I wanted to see some quick progress, as that was a good motivator for me last week. So I took the kickstart lever and new rubber down to the kitchen, and threw on a pot of water to boil. I pulled the boiling water off the stove, and tossed in the new rubber sleeve. I cut the old one off, then threw the lever into the hot water as well. I just left it in long enough to get it warm. I knew from experience that you want the rubber very hot, but the metal can be difficult to handle if it's too hot. I pulled the warm lever out of the water, and rubbed it with dish soap, then forced the rubber sleeve over the knob, and slid it into place. The result looks good, and reminds me how this whole engine will look after some elbow grease.



The starter did not work last spring, and I never bothered to investigate much, as it started easily with the kickstarter. I decided to tackle the starter problem first, so off it came. It was immediately apparent why the starter did not work: it is (literally) gutless. The guts of the starter motor have been removed. Now I'm debating whether to bother replacing it, or simply make up a blanking plate, and then use the kicker. Since I'm hoping my wife will ride this bike with me, I will probably find another starter motor.



Here's where the blanking plate would live, if I decide to ditch the starter:

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Old 12-31-2008, 07:41 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cowboy
The starter did not work last spring, and I never bothered to investigate much, as it started easily with the kickstarter. I decided to tackle the starter problem first, so off it came. It was immediately apparent why the starter did not work: it is (literally) gutless. The guts of the starter motor have been removed.


Imagining the conversation the previous 'mechanic' had with himself when deciding how to 'fix' the starter has me in stitches
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